March brings us the joy of Fragrance Day, and it is also International Women’s History Month. To celebrate this important recognition of women’s contribution across all fields, and in keeping with #FragranceForwardTFF, TFF President Linda G. Levy spoke to two very inspiring leaders in the fragrance industry: Sabrya Meflah, President, Fine Fragrance IFF, and Tricia Butler, President, Givenchy and Kenzo, North America LVMH. In video segments that made their debut as part of TFF’s Fragrance Day Virtual Event on March 21^st, Levy joined Meflah and Butler to discuss their career trajectories, accomplishments, and goals for the future. For this month’s ACCORDS, they take the time to reflect upon team building, mentorship, and the future of women in the fragrance industry (spoiler alert: it smells bright!).

You have been at IFF for 27 years in different roles. What are the biggest changes you’ve seen in the company and industry?

When I started at IFF, I was impressed to see so many empowered women who were making the industry: Mrs Lauder first and foremost, and in Europe women like Vera Strubi, Chantal Roos, Patricia Turcq Paquelier… These women deeply transformed the perfume industry. On the fragrance creation side, while the industry was mostly made up of male perfumers, IFF had a very different position from that of its competitors: perfumers like Josephine Catapano had shaped the American perfume industry, working with Mrs Lauder to create Youth Dew. Sophia Grojsman had created some of the blockbusters of the 80’s and 90’s, from Beautiful and Trésor to Eternity and Paris, paving the way for a new generation of empowered female perfumers who then joined our ranks as I started into IFF.  

These young female perfumers are now master perfumers, VP perfumers, and continue to be a role model for the next generation. We also have a strong corporate commitment, heralded by Franc Clyburn, IFF CEO: by 2030, 50% of our senior executives across IFF will be women. 

How do you foster an environment with your team so that they feel that anything is possible?

This is how I was brought up, by a mother who taught me that indeed, anything is possible, if you will it. That is my almost obsessional message to my team: if you will it, if you really will it, it is in your hands to make it happen. And I trust them completely, to make anything happen. 

What challenges do you think that women in the fragrance industry specifically face?

I don’t see specific challenges relating to our industry for women. I believe this is an industry where they have been empowered for a while now. However, there is still a glass ceiling, when I look at the small number of female CEOs. 

The beauty industry seems to be a very fertile ground when it comes to equality and diversity, if only because it is dedicated to beauty, men as much as women. It is a rallying industry and not a dividing one. Fragrance knows no borders, no race, no gender: its inclusive powers are limitless. 

Fragrance creation mirrors society, its evolution, much faster than many other industries: so let’s embrace its full diversity!

How would you describe your leadership style?

I believe everyone on our team is there because they add value and their voice matters. Communication – open, honest, thoughtful and kind, is critical and necessary to get the best out of everyone. Leadership and ownership from every chair builds a sense of belonging and commitment to the brand and to the team at large. We have been working hard to remove the standard hierarchical approach so often found in office settings in order to help us be nimble and develop skills and strategic thought processes at every level. Trust is critical and no one wins alone. I believe success is a team sport.

How do you help people find their voice and feel empowered in your team?

The short answer is you have to level the playing field. Actually accomplishing this though, really takes a lot of effort and requires the whole team to be on board in order for the forum to be a true “safe” space for EVERYONE. For me this goes back to building a culture of honest communication and feedback, in real time, on the spot. We encourage everyone on the team to have conversations with the teammate that is the subject matter expert (or can solve or remove the roadblock), this means ideas, concerns and even tough conversations. We created a Call to Courage, together as a group – we have it printed and shared it with everyone. We committed to: Leading ourselves and others with empathy, curiosity and from a place of learning (not judging). We agreed that we would have tough conversations (or provide feedback), in real time with Kindness and Clarity. And we committed to consistent collaborations and communication in order to foster a Culture of Trust. We are a work in progress but have all identified accountability partners to keep us focused and honest with ourselves as well as the others.

What is your advice for women who are embarking on careers in the fragrance industry?

I think that the path for everyone may look a little bit different but first, you need to have real clarity of what is important to you – the values that light you up and find a company/team that is similar in those focuses. This is the single best way to guarantee you look forward to getting up in the morning and going to work. Then I would say identify 1-2 people that you want to learn from and ask them to be a mentor (I believe peer mentorship is as important as having someone in that Sponsorship role) and spend scheduled quality time with them. I believe we are incredibly lucky to be in this industry, for the fact that the majority of the leaders want to share, want to build for the future and truly believe in investing in talent!

When Fragrance Day arrives on March 21st, it’s not just the first promise of spring that’s in the air. It is also a time to smell the scents of a new season, with a flurry of launches from brands big and small. Among TFF Members, there were many exciting introductions. Boy Smells debuted Emotional Illuminations, a candles-and-functional-beverages collaboration with Kin Euphorics utilizing mood-altering technology, Cartier featured Les Écrins Parfumés, a collection of scented candles, Shalini Parfum offered a limited-edition Aurora flacon, and new spritzes debuting for Fragrance Day included Clean Beauty Collective’s Apple Blossom, Diptyque’s L’Eau Papier, Elorea’s Forgotten Words Collection, Jo Malone London’s Blossom Collection, Kilian’s limited-edition Blue Moon Ginger Dash, Harlem Candle Company’s Speakeasy EDP, Kayali’s Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense, Givenchy’s Gentleman’s Society, NEST New York’s Balinese Coconut Perfume Oil, Phlur’s Solar Power, Sol de Janeiro’s Rio Radiance Perfume Mist and Michael Malul London’s collection of three new fragrances—Agar + Myrrh, Amber + Smoke, and Rose + Honey.

When it came to retailer activity, Fragrance Day 2023 was also brimming with enthusiasm and engagement, with consumers turning up to shop in person as well as following along on social media. Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy participated in a MACY’s LIVE at Herald Square, exploring new scents and dispensing tips in a very special segment that lit up Instagram and can still be watched on Macy’s home page. She also made an appearance at Nordstrom, which orchestrated a digital experience online as well as an instore celebration with multiple media outlets during which Levy discussed how to buy scents for yourself and others. Bloomingdale’s celebrated with a virtual event for Maison Francis Kurkdjian, with National Training and Events Director Joan Tanis discussing the history and creative inspiration behind the brand’s latest scent, 724 EDP; Saks promoted the day on social through Instagram and Facebook; Sephora trumpeted the scent-central day with social posts, emails in-store brand events, and offers including complimentary samples with every fragrance purchase; Victoria’s Secret Beauty and Ulta also supported the day majorly with special offers both instore and online.  

Meanwhile, TFF celebrated March 21st in a major way with exclusive virtual content from influencers, brands, fragrance houses, and leaders in the industry, all viewable on demand throughout the day and on TFF’s YouTube channel. Click here to watch content from Fragrance Day 2023! The first 1,000 US-based registrants to sign up received a complimentary Scent Journey kit, containing fragrances from TFF members including Costa Brazil, Floral Street, House of Bō, Ralph Lauren, Valentino, Maison Margiela and more. There was further Fragrance Day support at TFF’s Scents of Success partners Florida State University, Spelman College, City College of New York , and F.I.T, with inspiring and educational special events that engaged students with the exciting world of fragrance as they discovered their Scent Journey Kit’s.

  Fragrance Day 2023 was bigger than ever, and yet another success. As an important moment when fragrance takes center stage and all can join together to experience, experiment, and extol the pleasure and joy it can spark, the day truly did live up to TFF’s mission: To inspire the world discover the artistry and passion of fragrance.

TFF has an ongoing partnership with The Monell Center, a nonprofit institute in Philadelphia dedicated to exploring the science of smell. Monell Research Scientist Pamela Dalton has become a regular and cherished guest in TFF’s Fragrance Day celebrations, sharing valuable, thought-provoking insight into how smell—and its loss—can affect health and mental outlook. For this year’s TFF Fragrance Day Virtual Event on March 21^st, Dalton spoke with Levy about new science surrounding COVID-19 anosmia and the research and programs that Monell is currently focusing on. Here, she shares more about what the institute is learning about smell’s relationship to the brain and emotions, and what advances we can hope to see in smell testing.

What are some of the ways that smell loss can affect people cognitively and emotionally?

Many people who lose their sense of smell often report emotional changes such as sadness and depression. Of course, some of this can be understood as grieving for the loss of the ability to enjoy food and beverage, smell the world around them and especially the smell of a loved one. However, the close interaction between the olfactory structures in the brain and the limbic system (i.e., emotional center) structures strongly suggests that the lack of olfactory input can disrupt emotional processing as well.

Olfactory decline is associated with cognitive impairments, and that has largely been attributed to the fact that the central brain structures involved in olfaction are often the first location of impact in neurodegenerative diseases. However, more recent discussion has centered around whether lack of input or stimulation to the olfactory brain structures is what is responsible for the onset of neurodegeneration, the appearance of plaques and tangles in the primary olfactory cortex. Sadly, we will have an opportunity to find this out as we now have many millions of people worldwide, often younger individuals, who have not yet and may not ever recover from COVID-19 related smell loss.

What are some of the current programs and specific research channels that you are working on now? 

Our lab and others at Monell are still working on developing and deploying our rapid smell test called SCENTinel, which was originally conceived as a way to screen for a virus like SARS-COV-2, which manifested initially in dramatic loss of smell. We hope to utilize this test in a study of adults at risk for neurodegenerative diseases as a way to separate which aspects of olfactory function are impacted in each disorder, thereby leading to an earlier and more specific diagnosis. We are also interested in working on promoting the concept of universal smell testing in order to fully characterize this important sensory system across all age groups and importantly, to be able to track changes that may signify other types of disease or illness. Monell will host a 2-day conference in November that will bring together scientists, physicians and hopefully patients to further this goal. Our Patient Centered Outcomes Research Institute funded survey that recruited over 6000 people in just 3 weeks gave us great insight into how devastating the loss of smell can be and that there is insufficient information about treatment and resources, even among physicians, for patients to access.

This year The Fragrance Day and surrounding days were BIGGER than ever! We are growing participation beyond the fragrance community by engaging consumers through our online events, retail events and major TV exposure across the USA!

TFF premiered on March 21st to an online audience of nearly 8,000 pre-registered viewers of which half were consumers! TFF members’ exclusive content includes participation by brands, Fragrance Houses, Perfumers, The Monell Center and so much more! All this great content continues to be accessible, so please visit our Youtube Channel to view all the fabulous Fragrance Day content on demand! 

As we celebrate the final days of Women’s History Month, Sabrya Meflah of IFF and Tricia Butler of LVMH share how they inspire their teams in this issue of Accords, with further insights based on their Fragrance Day discussions with me. Dr. Pam Dalton from the Monell Center provided further updates on the sense of smell research.

My TV tour was an exciting Fragrance Day marathon with 8 MILLION media impressions, with 10 in market and national TV interviews + 7 online features. While I was in person in the studio here in New York City for NY1 Spectrum with Cheryl Wills In Focus series for Women in Business, the Spring TV Tour from TFF’s office studio included appearances covering several states across the nation.

Fragrance Day’s major activities also included student interactive events to celebrate with our Scents of Success partners at The City College of New York, Spelman College, Florida State University and the Fashion Institute of Technology. TFF’s Sharné Jackson and Cheryl Fried partnered with brand teams from Givenchy, NEST New York and more bringing Fragrance Day to the campuses.

We look forward to more scent journeys with you this Spring as The Fragrance Foundation Awards season gets underway!

On February 15th, The Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy was honored with the first-ever Catalyst Award from the New York Urban League. Presented at New York City’s Plaza Hotel during the NYUL 2023 Champions of Diversity Event, it was a thrilling moment for Levy and a momentous recognition of her leadership in advancing Diversity, Equity and Inclusion within the fragrance industry.

The New York Urban League is one of the nation’s oldest civil rights organizations, dedicated to furthering economic empowerment, career development, job training, education, mentorship and health advocacy for New York’s underserved BIPOC communities. This year’s Champions of Diversity celebration kicked off with a breakfast and morning Symposium that included insightful sessions on Leading While Black and Brown, with Chris Collins of World of Chris Collins among the panelists, and Emerging Trends in DEI, for which TFF’s Executive Director Sharné C. Jackson shared her knowledge and expertise alongside Corey Smith from LVMH, Sharon Foretia from Blackrock, and Chris Metzler from National Urban League.

Joined by more than 250 leaders from the fragrance industry and beyond, the Champions Awards presentations took place over a lunch hosted by Arva Rice, President and CEO of New York Urban League, emceed by WNBC-TV anchor David Ushery, and chaired by Helen C. Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer at FINN Partners and NYUL Board Member. Levy’s Catalyst Award was accompanied with a video tribute in which friends and colleagues praised her vision and commitment to galvanizing DEI within the fragrance industry, including Fragrance Society Founder Tiff Benson; Tricia Butler, President, Givenchy and Kenzo, North America, LVMH; Chris Collins, Founder World of Chris Collins; Ann Gottlieb, President, Anne Gottlieb Associates; Sharné Jackson, Executive Director, TFF; Nicole Monson, Senior Vice President, Estée Lauder Companies; Giancarlo Pérez and Bernardo Möller, founders, House of Bō; Linda Song, senior perfumer, Givaudan; and, Jerry Vittoria, TFF’s Board Chairman and President, Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich.

Levy’s TFF presidency has been defined by her tenacious drive to equalize and democratize the industry, expanding TFF membership and spearheading #FragranceForwardTFF, the sweeping initiative that launched in October 2021. Just as she has reshaped the goals of TFF to direct the organization towards an equitable future in which all voices are heard, she has inspired the industry to take a pledge to increase workplace diversity and create career and educational opportunities through mentorships, scholarships, proactive recruitment and allyship. As Vittoria states in his tribute, “Linda has always been a catalyst of change, a catalyst of courage and a catalyst of doing the right thing. She puts DEI at the forefront of all TFF activities and is dedicated to bringing people together and opening the door for the exciting possibilities that the fragrance industry offers.”

The day was a triumph and inspiration for attendees as well as for Levy’s fellow Champions Awards recipients: Kim Davis, Senior Executive Vice President, National Hockey League, who was named Leadership Champion; HR&A Advisors, named Champion in Recruitment, Retention & Belonging; Clarissa Moses-Washington, Manager of DEI, JetBlue Airways, named Rising Star Champion; and Kenneth Ebie, Executive Director, Black Entrepreneurs NYC, named Equity & Inclusion Ambassador. And, in keeping with TFF’s ongoing drive to forge new initiatives that create lasting change, the NYUL 2023 Champions of Diversity Event introduced the Fragrance Foundation Catalyst Initiative, a partnership that will benefit NYUL’s Diversity Lab and provide training, career development, mentorship, and job opportunities for professionals of color interested in careers in the fragrance industry. The initiative is supported by all 200+ TFF member companies in a focused effort, including Fragrance Houses, Brands, Retailers and related businesses.

The Fragrance Foundation’s annual Notables awards ceremony is one of the most anticipated—and often, truly moving—events on the fragrance industry calendar. The 18 individuals who were inducted into the Notables Class of 2023 on February 7^th at the Hudson Yards headquarters of L’Oreal Luxe embody all of the qualities that make the scent world so inspiring: passion, creativity, initiative, and advocacy. In this month’s Accords, we celebrate the new TFF Notables, all of whom are dedicated to upholding the #FragranceForwardTFF DEI pledge. They share what the honor means to them, and what they look forward to as they join the growing Notables Think Tank to brainstorm initiatives that will continue to energize and galvanize progress in the industry and beyond.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

This incredible industry is filled with so much talent, so I truly mean it when I say I am honored to be recognized. I look forward to learning and collaborating with this amazing group both past and present, as we continue to push boundaries within the fragrance industry.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable? 

I am constantly pushing myself to deliver high-class products to keep my brand relevant and top of mind. As I collaborate with Notable fragrance professionals, I look forward to instilling a sense of purpose into how we are thinking about product development whether that be through product innovation, sustainability, or getting product to counter in the most efficient way.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am very proud and grateful to have been named a TFF Notable.

It is a privilege to work in fragrance and even more to be recognized by my peers and The Fragrance Foundation. I am very excited to join this group of talented individuals and to impact the new generation by sharing my experience in this incredible industry.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

Having lived in Europe, Asia and America, I will bring my multicultural experience and insights to the young people in the industry. I will always bring positivity and energy into the room.

With my experience in Global and Local Marketing positions, I have the understanding of the full creative process from the blank page to the bottle of fragrance on shelf all over the world including consumer insights, product mix, media and channel strategies. As an ambassador of the #FragranceForwardTFF movement, my focus will be to educate and promote DEI in the inclusive and open world of scent.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am honored to join this esteemed group of 2023 notables and support The Fragrance Foundation in so many magnificent initiatives this year. I’m so excited to have the opportunity to get to know and share new and innovative ideas and learn from my fellow Notables. Together we will collectively be contributing to the growth, awareness and future of our industry, and it will be the most rewarding aspect of this incredible honor and opportunity.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I will bring my expertise and insight to the table as a 2023 Notable. My approach is always a 360 view. All training I create at Bulgari Parfums is through the eyes of an educator, a client and a client advisor. I believe being able to share experiences of how to properly train our teams not only to sell fragrance but engage our clients and bring out the emotions within them through fragrance will contribute to our initiatives and industry elevation throughout the year and beyond.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am excited to be a part of a growing group of industry professionals whose main goal is to constantly evolve the fragrance industry in a positive direction. I look forward to meeting with the notables at the quarterly Think Tanks to strategize and brainstorm on important topics that are affecting our industry – today and in the future.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I have a unique role at L’Oréal. Not only am I the only fine fragrance expert based in North America, but I am also very integrated into the Ralph Lauren global marketing team and lead their fragrance development process. With this background, I have developed and refined a few skills: love of fragrances; knowledge of raw materials, natural ingredients and sourcing; being able to define a brand’s olfactive philosophy; understanding and translating marketing language to perfumery language; engaging with a consumer through product testing; investigating challenges and brainstorming solutions; working with many cross-functional teams at a time on multiple projects.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I feel very privileged to be included in such a remarkable group of talented individuals all paving their way within the fragrance industry. I look forward to having the opportunity to learn from this network but also contribute in upcoming Think Tanks, which will hopefully foster new ideas and deepen education tools available to expand our community.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I am able to bring a global perspective, merging both my experience in fashion and beauty, to shine a spotlight on the magical world of fragrance and the boundless memories and diverse places it can transport you to.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

Having worked on leading fragrance brands like Yves Saint Laurent and currently Maison Margiela fragrances, I have had the opportunity to use the power of scent to create fragrances that engage and bring joy to our consumers. As a TFF Notable, I am excited to continue to engage and educate consumers on not only the inspiration, but also the emotional connection of fragrance.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

I look forward to massively accelerating consumer connections. At L’Oréal, it is our mission to build deeper consumer relationships, to retain high value customers and increase their lifetime value. I strive to continue to use testing, insights and analysis to put the consumer first, at the center of all decisions.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

Fragrance holds a very special place in my heart. It is so much more than what meets the nose. In times of self-doubt, it has brought me confidence. In times of discomfort, it has brought me solace by transporting me to memories of joy and happiness. What excites me about being a Notable is the privilege of serving as an ambassador for the fragrance industry and The Fragrance Foundation. This platform will allow me to share my passion for fragrance, inspire future leaders and educate those who would otherwise be unfamiliar with everything this beautiful industry has to offer.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

As a Muslim and proud Veteran, I am very passionate about all the work that The Fragrance Foundation has done with #FragranceForwardTFF. I commit to support these efforts by continuing to challenge the status quo and deepening my understanding of people’s diverse experiences and identities to create more inclusive fragrances. I will leverage a test and learn mindset to create marketing campaigns that deepen consumer connections and grow the category.

What excites you most about being named a TFF Notable?

I am very excited to be part of this impressive cohort of people that demonstrate such dedication and passion for the fragrance category and our continuous discussions on how we can contribute to a more equitable and ever evolving industry.

As someone with expertise in engaging consumers with fragrances, what skills and insights will you bring to the table as a TFF Notable?

A never ending quest for understanding how consumers see and interact with the category and to keep finding new ways to make the experience of finding, wearing and learning the stories behind each fragrance simple, relevant, accessible and delightful; throughout the entire 360 experience.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

We discovered at the Notables Breakfast that the majority of the Class of 2023 never aspired to work in the fragrance industry, as most of us did not know this was an option at the onset of our careers, yet each of us shared such passion for what we do! Despite having different backgrounds and roles, our collective love of fragrance was visceral and radiating within the walls of the TFF offices that morning! I am beyond thrilled to have been nominated by Firmenich, awarded by TFF and join this distinguished group of gifted creatives! I look forward to partnering with the amazing team at TFF as part of the Notables Think Tank and on their DEI initiatives to ensure that the next generation of talent is aware of the amazing opportunities within this industry.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Growing up, I imagined that by 2023 we would be able to teleport or time travel. While sadly (especially for those of us that commute) physical teleportation is not yet a reality, the magic of fragrance is that it can and does immediately transport us – with one breath, we can be instantaneously brought back to a cherished childhood memory or a destination halfway around the world, or even feel enveloped by a loved one that is no longer with us! At Firmenich, the creativity of our perfumers allows us to transport over 4 billion customers several times throughout their day!

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It is a wonderful recognition for the passion I bring to work every day. I feel very honored and grateful.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

As Perfumer, the answer seems to be obvious for me: by creating fragrances. Also, I believe that the passion for fragrances is closely linked to the passion for raw materials, whether they are naturals or synthetics. Working within a fragrance house enables me to highlight these raw materials. I particularly like to use natural essential oils from Maison LAUTIER because being part of Symrise I know better the supply chain and feel closer to the raw material, they smell amazing. There is also a sustainable aspect that I like by empowering women and local communities. Then, together with the customer’s vision, we give life to the fragrance and hopefully inspire the world.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

I’m still absorbing this amazing recognition. Our industry is full of stand out talent and I am very happy to be counted among them.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

My favorite experiences in fragrance houses over the years have been working with incredibly diverse and talented perfumers. I work with them to uncover the stories, the secrets, and the signature entwined within each creation. My goal is to teach a new generation of evaluators to look deeper, and to take the time to give meaning and soul to a fragrance creation. A “story full” fragrance connects and enchants and lives and breathes. That is a powerful tool to connect people everywhere.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It simply means the world to me! I have admired The Fragrance Foundation as long as I have been in the industry so to be able to be a part of the TFF family, especially being able to represent a company like Givaudan at the same time is a dream come true.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I adore working at a fragrance house and being at the true center of creation. The opportunity to work with the best perfumers in the industry to create fragrances that have a tangible and lasting effect on the consumers is something I am grateful for every day.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

I am particularly touched to have been nominated by IFF as the 2023 Notable. It is wonderful to have within our Industry an organization such as The Fragrance Foundation and its key members who relentlessly develop meaningful programs, highlighting individuals in different roles and great causes to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance, and aiming at sparking career aspirations for upcoming generations.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

The adventure of crafting a fragrance is fascinating, the magical story that goes with it, working alongside incredibly talented artists, our perfumers, hand in hand with our clients and partners, drawing on the past to create the future of fragrances to awaken the extraordinary senses for a better world. Being able to share this passion with others, whether neophytes or experts is always highly gratifying!

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

It is a huge honor to be named a TFF Notable, and I am truly grateful to be a part of the Notables Crew! We all share a genuine passion for fragrance, which is the driving force behind TFF’s Mission. I am looking forward to my first Think Tank, because it is an opportunity for my voice and unique ideas to be heard, while also making a positive impact.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

There is a deep connection between scent and memory. Unlike anything else, fragrance can conjure up memories of the past or become something new altogether. Scent is a very powerful tool because it is so closely tied into your emotions. In a way, fragrance makes you feel something. I am fortunate to have the opportunity to inspire and connect with people through my perfumery work.

What does it mean to you to be named a TFF Notable?

Being named a TFF Notable is an incredible honor and humbling experience, yet a great source of pride. It signifies not only hard work and dedication, but also recognition and appreciation from the leading experts of the industry. One of the many responsibilities that comes with being a Notable includes driving the TFF initiative forward. My goal is to spread awareness of the benefits of fragrances and how the industry is diverse, equitable, and inclusive.

How does working within a fragrance house enable you to fulfill TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

It provides unique opportunities to connect with customers, creators, and the wider industry to build relationships, inspire meaningful conversations and promote awareness of the craft and experience of fragrances. By utilizing my regulatory expertise to develop an educational presence, the complexities of fragrance creation and the ever changing regulatory landscape and scientific aspects of the artistry of perfumery can be brought to light. Working at Robertet offers the invaluable opportunity to bring joy and inspire others to discover the world of fragrance.

What a great way to celebrate Black History Month! 

The New York Urban League honored me and The Fragrance Foundation for its first-ever Catalyst Award. The Champions Awards symposium and luncheon at The Plaza in NYC was attended by many TFF Board members and members of the fragrance community. The half day event gave all attendees an opportunity to learn about NYUL programs and meet their talented team. This was the official launch of The Fragrance Foundation Catalyst Initiative, which will benefit NYUL’s Diversity & Inclusion Lab and provide training, career development, mentorship and job opportunities for professionals of color interested in careers in the fragrance industry. 

Thank you to Arva Rice, NYUL CEO, and Helen Shelton, Chair of this event and Chief Diversity and Inclusion Officer at Finn Partners. Helen and our Executive Director Sharné Jackson at TFF have been valued partners for their vision, guidance and implementation of TFF’s DEI initiative #FragranceForwardTFF. 

There was huge media outreach, as well as many in the media reaching out to us, with results that are monumental. The TV coverage, as well as far reaching media online, brought our industry initiative to the forefront. Now #FragranceForwardTFF has been amplified to the entire USA big time, and we will continue to galvanize the community uniting all for our #1 priority DEI.

February was also a milestone for the first in person Notables event after the last two years celebrating virtually. With L’Oréal Luxe as our generous hosts at their Hudson Yards Le Café, the evening celebration was fabulous and each 2023 Notable shared their passion for fragrance and their personal dedication to #FragranceForwardTFF. In this issue of Accords, you can learn more about these truly Notable individuals who we value to join the Notables Think Tank and contribute to our TFF future!

Next month we look forward to celebrating The Fragrance Day on March 21st and the weeks around that date, as well as International Women’s History Month!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

TFF is hitting the ground running in 2023, planning the year’s exciting events (stay tuned) and kicking off another 12 months of community, communication and commitment to #FragranceForwardTFF. We are also welcoming new faces to the TFF Board of Directors, a group of esteemed individuals whose experience, ideas and talent are vital to TFF and all we hope to achieve. For the January Spotlight of ACCORDS, three new board members—Agnes Landau, Lori Singer, and Verane de Marffy–each of whom oversee multiple brands and unite multiple voices, take a moment to share their thoughts on being newly elected to represent their company and how they intend to drive TFF’s vision and DEI mission forward in the coming year.

Why are you most excited to represent your company on the TFF board?

L’Oréal is now the #1 luxury fragrance company in the US and I am extremely proud to be celebrating my 20th year with the group. Having worked on some of the top brands in our industry like Ralph Lauren and Yves Saint Laurent Fragrances, L’Oréal has always commanded the highest standards for our fragrances, from sourcing responsibly to deeply respecting each perfumer, to ensuring the quintessential essence of each brand. Our teams at L’Oréal are profoundly committed to creating Fragrances that engage, educate and bring joy to consumers. Now, L’Oréal is putting sustainability at the heart of its vision. TFF is the premiere representative of our community and shares the same values as L’Oréal. By joining the board, I can work with other amazing leaders to help create programs and actions that help advance both L’Oréal’s and the TFF’s missions.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

First of all, we have the credibility, the scale, the resources and the responsibility to drive TFF’s mission. From Lifestyle brands like Ralph Lauren, to Couture brands like Prada to the Collection brands like Maison Margiela, L’Oréal’s extremely wide portfolio allows us to drive that passion and engagement for people from all backgrounds. Fragrance is a luxury but it should be inclusive and make everyone dream. With our retail partners especially, we work together to bring the best quality and experience of fragrances to all.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

I am particularly excited about supporting TFF’s mission to break barriers for people of all backgrounds to launch, grow and sustain careers in fragrances. This is probably the biggest opportunity for our industry today. DEI also happens to be a key priority for the L’Oréal group. Personally, I have already committed to recruiting even more diversity in my team, which is particularly key as we look to ensure that our fragrances respect the needs and perspectives of our end consumer. Another way to take action is to ensure that our campaigns have diverse representation. A recent example is the renovation of the Ralph Lauren Romance campaign, which has traditionally featured a Caucasian straight couple and now stars a bi-racial lesbian couple. I feel extremely proud of this move, especially since the Ralph Lauren brand has always been a very active supporter of LGBTQA+ rights. Finally, I have volunteered to participate in the DEI initiative at TFF as well as join the education committee. This is the one that I am most excited about. I am very passionate about helping young adults to discover our industry and hopefully support to educate the next generation of Fragrance professionals.

Why are you most excited to represent your company on the TFF board?

At Parlux, I work with an incredible roster of multi-faceted brands and talent, which gives me first hand insights to pop culture, sustainable practices and futuristic web 3 metaverse opportunities and more!  I am extremely passionate about the fragrance industry and want to share my experience with the TFF board and bring new ideas to the table. I am so excited to be amongst my industry peers to continue the art of fragrance storytelling, to a wider audience. 

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Parlux fosters a culture of excellence and creativity, and this discipline is in lock step with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. My team and I create the most compelling fragrances and brand campaigns that spark connection and emotions. Our fragrances evoke memories such as feeling joy, falling in love, getting married or re-living a dreamy vacation.

We are committed to putting the customer first, creating new and evocative fragrances to be an affordable luxury that brings a spark of je ne sais quoi to the world.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

The Parlux portfolio consists of diverse fashion brands and talent who have been on our roster for decades. I am committed to increasing our DEI roster with new brands and am already having some amazing conversations (shhhh!). I am very proud of the talented and diverse team that I have built at Parlux. With this experience, I am already taking action and committed to help the advancement of DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF.

Why are you most excited to represent your company on the TFF board?

First of all, I have a deep passion for fragrance and its power to transform. I am also very excited to be the first Latina in The Fragrance Foundation Board of Directors. Latina consumers are very sophisticated and highly involved in the fragrance category. As the population in the US shifts and the proportions of people of color increases, I believe this bodes well for the category overall.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I think the Shiseido fragrance business perfectly aligns with The Fragrance Foundation mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. The Shiseido fragrance stable is composed of some of the most notable and iconic names in the fragrance industry; Hermes, Narciso Rodriguez, Issey Miyake, Tory Burch, to name a few. We at Shiseido share a deep passion and respect for the artistry and craftsmanship involved in creating a fragrance.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

I believe that we always start with what we can immediately impact. Therefore, bringing more people of color into the organization in my case, Shiseido is a top priority for me. We need those voices at the table if we want to really address their needs. Being the first Hispanic in the Board of Directors of TFF, I think it is also my duty to use my voice and position to bring others along.

Two more fragrance industry veterans who will be taking a TFF Board of Directors seat this year bring unique perspectives: Larry Berman of Arcade Beauty, whose leading role in sampling, blending and fragrance filling puts him and his company at the intersection of diverse brands and at the forefront of new experiences for the customer; and Vanessa Dabich, who brings her energy and expertise to Strategy, New Ventures, and Communication at the historic House of Creed. Here, they reflect on what joining the TFF Board means to them and how their commitment to #ForwardTFF will galvanize positive change within the fragrance world.

What does it mean for you personally to join the TFF board?

As I have been in the industry for over 30 years, I have always admired the leaders in the industry and have fond memories of my very first Fifi awards. I remember the week or two after the awards, waiting for Cosmetic World to deliver to our office, so we could see not only if our picture made it into the extra-large edition, but all of the glamor that accompanied the night. Additionally, as the foundation has provided so much for the industry that I have loved for so many years, I am thrilled to be able to spend my time helping give back as well.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

Being part of Arcade Beauty, the global leader in sampling, blending, and fragrance filling, I am constantly experiencing not only new fragrances, but also new up and coming brands as well. I love hearing their stories behind their fragrances and I enjoy the excitement that they have in launching something they created. We frequently lower our MOQ’s ( minimum order quantities) to help the Indie Brands grow, as we know they may not have the volume that the larger brands have, and we are also willing to help partner with them on pricing so we can grow together.

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF?

One of Arcade Beauty’s social objectives is promoting diversity as well as preventing discrimination and harassment at the workplace. I currently have a very diverse sales team and continue to ensure that our leadership team is interviewing and hiring from a large pool of backgrounds. Additionally, in my personal life, I am very involved in a non-profit organization run by my wife, named The Bass Foundation. The Bass Foundation provides food, winter coats, mentoring, and academic scholarships for the underserved communities in New Jersey. This month was one of our largest events where we were able to distribute brand new winter coats to every student at the Louverture Elementary School in East Orange, NJ.

What does it mean for you personally to join the TFF board?

TFF is such a prestigious organization. It’s a true honor to join the TFF board with such esteemed industry colleagues. I’m excited to learn more from this incredible group and help to better serve the fragrance community together.

How does your business align with TFF’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I love and respect TFF mission. Our work at The House of Creed is truly in sync with these values.  Fragrance inspires people in so many ways and to work in an industry that can transport with one spritz, is awe inspiring. 

In what ways can you commit & take action for positive advances for DEI with #FragranceForwardTFF

DEI is an important cornerstone of all meaningful growth and change not just at our company, but within the industry and obviously our daily lives. I’m committed to making significant in-roads through meaningful, inclusive programming working with diverse content creators and business partners.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

In the past few years, we have seen more clean fragrances and I think that 2023 will be a year where we will see more sensual/warm scents emerging. I think that now after Covid, people are going out more and starting to wear bolder scents like big woods that can be attractive. I think we will also continue to see more gender fluid scents as people are wearing what they enjoy versus based on gender.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

I think that the digital world is having more impact than ever on consumers and how they engage with the world and, in turn, with their scent. This is something I believe we will see more of in store and through scent experiential moments.

For both personal and for home, I feel that the consumer is conscious to select a scent that they love, regardless of any gender or marketing or note, but based on how they feel as they want their home to smell pleasant and relaxing but still enjoy the scent they personally wear through the day.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

The emotional power of scent will play a vital role in how consumers engage with fragrance for themselves and their homes. Givaudan studies reveal that 89% of people believe that a fragrance can improve their overall well being. They are looking for “feel-good” elements in their lives, now more than ever. Scent has the power to trigger emotions and consumers have come to expect that fragrance can and should do more than just smell good. 

Our research also shows that consumers now have a greater sense of self and their motivation for fragrance has shifted to a place of self-empowerment, self-expression and the belief that they are worth it. This has led to a greater exploration of scent experiences and new territories as consumers look for ways to feed their need for individualism and emotion-led scent.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We see the emergence of scents that allow for an escape into nature, reimagined for a generation in search of new connections. Authentic green notes and sea accords, infused with mindful adventure. We also envision scents that reestablish consumers’ sense of self and purpose, fueling new expressions of optimism and spirituality. Feather-like notes with comforting and cocooning elements that are incredibly personal and profound, amplifying the effect of the time we spend with ourselves and reflecting the influence of spirituality and higher powers. As consumers seek balance, inclusivity and positive energy, we will see the emergence of fragrances that bring energy and focus, including bright citruses, calming accords, energizing aromatics and blooming florals.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

We predict a continued shift towards playful and comforting scents that offer mood-boosting benefits. We can expect to see cherry and berry notes taking center stage while new interpretations of rose and Gen Z favorite, vanilla, will make a comeback. Soft and delicate yellow mimosa flower, a popular fragrance ingredient in Europe, is now making its way into American perfumery with launches such as Eauso Vert’s Sintra, created by IFF perfumer Pascal Gaurin using our LMR natural Mimosa by IFF.

We’ve also seen an increase in barely-there, second skin fragrances that we expect to evolve into warmer, musky scents interpreted in solar, salted, and milky spaces with spice or fruity combinations. We see this trend accelerating through the innovation from molecules like AmberNat, IFF’s first renewable and biodegradable Amber captive. We also expect an increase in woody and darker, leathery scents, thanks to ingredients such as LMR upcycled Oakwood absolute, found in Scents of Wood Oak in Oak, or IFF soft leather-smelling Saffiano.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We foresee the consumer engaging with fragrances as a form of self-care, with wellness and aromatherapy benefits emerging as a key purchase driver. Smart sourcing will also impact fragrance purchases, with consumers gravitating toward transparent brands looking into greener ingredients. We predict an increase in digital activations among fragrance brands and expansion in the metaverse. We will see brands interacting with consumers in new ways such as digital shopping, NFT’s and digital fragrances. TikTok, which now accounts for 45% of social media-driven fragrance sales, will continue growing in popularity through the #PerfumeTok. We also predict brands will re-launch discontinued cult classic fragrances for a nostalgic, positive feel and to support customer loyalty. 

We’re also seeing a continued growth of luxury home scents, with a growing number of brands addressing that segment with haute-perfumery positioning: Ginori 1735 with its playful Luke Edward Hall launch, the relaunch of Paul Smith home fragrances, the continued success of Frederic Malle, diptyque, Nette, and other such brands.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

In 2023, we’ll continue to see consumers looking to fragrance as a means of self-expression and ultimately to express individuality. Much of this will be captured with disruptive and unexpected combinations of notes that are intentionally imagined by perfumers to spark contrast. Boy Smells’ new Woodphoria launch is the perfect example of this – where notes of cardamom, black pepper, and fig in isolation are incredibly different but nevertheless compelling when combined.

At the same time, genderful launches will be on the rise as the lines have become increasingly blurred across all categories of fragrances. Sustainable storytelling will also continue to evolve and become even more paramount to consumers as they continue to prioritize caring for the planet.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

Scentscaping has become a household term overnight! Consumers are looking to elevate their home space using and experimenting with home fragrances via traditional methods (candles, reed diffusers), but also exploring new technologies – automated, app-enabled diffusers and more. So inevitably the interest and therefore investment level in home fragrance has greatly increased. Many of the fine fragrance trends will also be reflected in the home – consumers will be considering how to select a home scent that ultimately delivers on self-expression and speaks to the desire to find a unique home signature scent. And just like with fine fragrance, consumers will also be more tuned in to ingredient safety and sustainability.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

Evolved, unique greens will make their way into fragrances as notes of plant leaves emerge with a nuanced approach to the fresh palette. We can look forward to fresh-cut herbs, plush mosses, green teas, and anything that smells green becoming even more popular—it puts us in touch with our natural connection to earth. 

Big blooming bouquets reminiscent of the 80s are back to make a statement, partially due to nostalgia, but also because consumers want to indulge in concentrated and qualitative, long-lasting juices, and they are willing to pay more for it. Departing from intimate, clean scents, the new year will see fragrances with rich heart notes made up of intense florals to evoke a romantic, feminine aura.

Genderless woods will be everywhere, evolving into more smoky silhouettes highlighting resins, myrrh and smoky woods like oud. 

Viva Magenta is the 2023 color of the year, so we also anticipate seeing the color come to life in the fragrance world as it’s predicted that Red Berry will continue to be a rising star inclusive of Raspberry, Strawberry, and Lychee notes.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee? 

Transportive fragrances will take people out of their homes and into a scented escape, as well as happy and nostalgic scents that continue to resonate with consumers seeking joy in everyday moments.

More than 60% of consumers are interested in seeing their home scents in personal care forms, so we can expect to see more brands play cross categories, offering the same scent across product forms. This may elevate everyday categories as well, as luxe enters home and personal care.

Consumers are going to be looking for premium products that they love at an affordable price. That said, they are willing to pay more than in the past for high-quality and uniqueness.

People may also start to shift away from the celebrity and name-brand fragrances to instead shop fragrances that really speak to them, their individuality and their personality.

Are there notes or types of fragrances that you predict we will smell more of in 2023?

At Takasago we have identified several macro trends that have implications for Fine Fragrance and CPG categories in 2023 and beyond. During uncertain times of volatility and stress, people seek out fragrances that will help them regulate their mood. We have seen fine fragrance, air care and personal care launches featuring comforting gourmand, woody and amber notes that wrap you in a gentle cocoon of coziness. We expect that will continue into 2023, and we will continue to find new ways to express this comforting sensation.

There is nothing that can clear the mind quite like time spent outdoors, immersing ourselves in the simple yet majestic beauty of nature. With a renewed focus on eco-responsibility, fragrance notes that bring us closer to transformative outdoor experiences are resonating. In 2023 we will see more leafy greens, clean herbal aromatic and gorgeous floral notes that allow us to dream and be transported to places both real and imagined.

In terms of how people engage with and buy fragrance for themselves and their homes, what trends do you foresee?

We are closely monitoring retail trends and consumer habits related to fragrance and are very excited about what the future holds for our industry. We believe the next wave of hyper sensorial experiences both at retail and online are emerging with hugely positive implications for our brand partners. Takasago is unveiling our new Metaverse platform in 1Q 2023, where we will be engaging with clients and consumers to unveil the next frontier in connecting, collaborating, co-creating and creativity.

The New Year 2023 has begun with a major lift off as we all are moving forward at a velocity we have not been able to activate or maintain for the past few years. While challenges will continue and possibly accelerate, growth and reinvention are key to our success.

We at TFF are welcoming new Directors to our Board, with several featured in this issue. Some we have known for years, and all are in exciting positions for which we value their fresh perspectives and appreciate their support and contributions. 

Starting this month, together with all of the Board, we are formulating plans and exchanging ideas to build the future together based on our mission and objectives. New initiatives will unfold in the coming months and our newly formed TFF Committees will define strategies and action plans for DEI, Education, Sustainability and Consumer Engagement. All we achieve will include #FragranceForwardTFF expanding our community; welcoming and celebrating all! 

This issue also includes the forecast and commentary from Fragrance Houses who share their 2023 visions for ingredients and consumer fragrance habits. The trends and ingredients evolve based on scientific discoveries, cultural shifts and ever changing lifestyles, so while we find some shared predictions, each of the houses also have unique insights.

All of us at TFF look forward to in person events in the next months with you all, as well as all you can share socially online to keep us updated. As we celebrate the Lunar New Year we look to the year of the Rabbit which predicts longevity, peace and prosperity, which we wish for all in the fragrance community and beyond!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

2022 was an exciting time for TFF and for the fragrance industry as a whole. Coming together again in new ways—both IRL and digital–and working towards a more diverse, inclusive future were major themes for all. For the final issue of ACCORDS in 2022, TFF asked board members to reflect on some of the changes and achievements they witnessed over the past year. In regard to TFF’s biggest priority, #FragranceForwardTFF, all agree that major strides had been made and that there was an overall championing of fresh voices and faces. “There is a greater sense of community and inclusion across all touchpoints,” says Tricia Butler, President North America Parfums Givenchy, Kenzo Parfums, Acqua di Parma, LVMH. “There is a definite sense of pride and an increase in participation” throughout the fragrance world.

“Acknowledging the reality and ‘previous’ state of the industry, while seemingly an easy task, was a major first step,” says Pierre Wulff, Director, Robertet Group. “Starting this conversation, driving awareness of the industry’s shortcomings, its lack of representation and inclusivity, and ultimately prioritizing it and making it part of the everyday conversation has been an exciting and inspiring shift. With this, we’ve already started to see more representation in the industry, more newcomers, and more spotlights and even major investments in brands previously overlooked.”

“I’ve seen a true focus being put on changing the landscape to a more inclusive one, through efforts made to nurture diverse talent and to help ensure that the fragrance industry represents and champions diversity in all its forms,” says Jerry Vittoria, Chairman TFF and President Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich. “This has taken shape in the form of more educational outreach such as panels and webcasts, creating features that highlight new founders, and putting together scholarships to attract the younger generations. Overall, there’s a united goal of setting a high standard of excellence, encouraging the beauty community as a whole to reflect the perspectives of, and in turn better serve, the consumers we create for.”

The fragrance consumer shifted in 2022, as world circumstances and individual behavior continued to evolve. “Fragrance continues to be a category where consumers have deep passion, both for themselves and for gifting,” says Penny Coy, VP Merchandising, Prestige Skincare and Fragrance ULTA. “Interestingly, throughout the pandemic consumers expanded engagement with fragrance as they began to more regularly layer scents into their personal rotation, creating different use cases for different brands. As they explore the category, consumers have continually gravitated towards newness this year – whether a new brand or new product from established fragrance brands. We’re seeing Gen Z embrace fragrance more regularly as TikTok continues to fuel fragrance chatter and trends, creating opportunities for all brands in the space to establish and nurture consumer relationships.” Butler noted that “There are more fragrance consumers. We are seeing a younger consumer and an increase in male consumers. EDPs, Parfums and stronger concentrations are on the rise.”

“Today’s consumer goes beyond gender or normal segmentations—instead today we focus on fragrances that suit a personality or evoke an emotion,” says Vittoria. “In turn, the shopping behaviors have adapted and we find that consumers are now going through multi-channels and are well informed and more purposeful in their selections. They are looking for brands that have an authentic voice with values they can relate to such as in sustainability and diversity efforts.”

These days, says Wulff, the fragrance consumer is “Everyone! The person looking for self-care solutions, the person looking to indulge, treat themselves, stay curious and engaged, and of course, the existing fragrance obsessed. As fragrance has become paramount in everything we consume and surround ourselves with – our homes, our work space, our beauty routines, entertainment and more – there is a growing audience and interest in the category and desire to infuse it in all lifestyles and aspects of our lives.”

For Julianne Pruett, VP Fine Fragrance Sales, Symrise the biggest change was “level-setting post pandemic. Back to live, in-person interaction means a decline in home care (candles) vs 2020/21 and an increase in EDT/colognes (going out, back to office) coupled with an increase in sales at brick & mortar stores vs peak of online. However, the online overall increase from 2019 is here to stay.”

More than anything, perhaps, fragrance continued to be a beacon of joy for consumers, and a way to connect with themselves and each other. “In a world suffering from unprecedented divisions, war and insecurity, the fragrance category is playing its role in terms of bringing positivity to each person’s world,” says Alex Choueiri, Global President, Ralph Lauren Fragrances L’Oréal. “Fragrance is no longer about seduction only, it is showing its power as a hedonistic tool with healing properties to the mind, and it is also about togetherness.”

Personally, TFF board members—like everyone else—found renewed inspiration in their personal lives, as they returned to the office with more flexibility, and in the world of scent, which continues to move towards a positive and diverse future. “Speaking on behalf of my team, 2022 welcomed a wonderful shift back to meetings in real life with our fragrance brand partners,” says Coy. “Experiencing new scents, being inspired by brand stories, offering reactions to the notes, packaging and future campaigns – these experiences energize us. We’re inspired by the creativity, newness and enthusiasm brands and consumers bring to the category and love working with our brand partners to deliver many beautiful fragrance possibilities to our guests.”

“We are seeing innovation daily, be it in sustainability efforts or through digital advancements, all being driven by a renewed appreciation of scent,” says Vittoria. “Scent today is seen as a powerful engine that can transform our mood and deliver active benefits rather than just an accessory—and this makes our work that much more exciting.”

How would you describe your brand’s unique point of view?

Homecourt is a collection of beauty products for the home, disrupting the household products industry with fine fragrance, clean skincare-inspired formulas, and sustainable packaging.

What do you hope that TFF membership can help your brand achieve?

The Homecourt team looks forward to networking, building additional relationships, and learning from others in the fragrance industry as we continue to innovate.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

Homecourt will contribute our passion for “The Beauty of Homecare” and continue to educate all on the art of scentscaping and decorating your home with fragrance. We are recruiting new customers to the world of fine fragrance via our innovative and accessible products like surface spray and dish soap. As Homecourt grows, we are excited to build new careers in the fragrance industry and are committed to practicing diversity, equity, and inclusion in our recruitment and culture.

How would you describe your brand’s unique point of view?

BROWN GIRL Jane infuses the power of wellness into masterfully crafted fragrance collections designed to boost mood and reduce stress. Working alongside preeminent perfumers and inspired by the richness of diversity, BROWN GIRL Jane’s award-winning and solution-forward scents are not only an olfactive escape but are powered by clean, clinically studied ingredients designed to marry function and fragrance.

What do you hope that TFF membership can help your brand achieve?

We’re thrilled to join the TFF family and hope that our membership in this esteemed organization can help elevate the conversation around diverse perspectives within this industry, deepen connections with other experts and founders, and highlight our distinct, wellness-forward approach to scent and the emotionally transformative power of fragrance.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

Our mission and ethos at BROWN GIRL Jane is wonderfully complementary to that of TFF, and as a brand that works tirelessly to center a global, multicultural audience, we will continue to ensure that the world of fragrance is inclusive, reflective, and diverse. We are scent-obsessed, not only because of its ability to quite literally shift mood and create a personal aura, but because it is a remarkable industry where true craftsmanship still exists. We hope that our membership serves as an example to others that they too belong and that diverse brands and founders have unique and valued contributions to share with this industry.

How would you describe your brand’s unique point of view?

We believe in CELEBRATING all life’s magical moments, INNOVATING so we are always serving her, PERSONALIZING everything so it’s all done her way, DESIGNING the most luxurious dresses and scents, and finally, KINDNESS – so she doesn’t have to worry about anything. It is our mission to help anyone and everyone find the look that will allow them to be the best, most genuine version of themselves on their wedding day or any special occasion. Our fragrance line aims to capture this feeling and allow them to revisit this special moment in their lives.

What do you hope that TFF membership can help your brand achieve?

We have 70 years of experience crafting magical moments and empowering shoppers globally. While the fragrance category is new for us, we are excited to join a community of renowned brands with like-minded values of serving customers and empowering individuals through the storytelling art of fragrance.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

David’s is grounded in our core values to empower people to innovate, create, and celebrate and it shows. In 2022 Forbes named us on their Best Employers for Women List, using results from a survey that is based on a variety of criteria including working conditions, diversity, and how likely employees are to recommend their employer. We are proud to offer inclusive and fun environments to empower our employees shine, in turn fostering passion, and overall growth, we hope to inspire others to do the same. Our brand ethos of ‘serving her or serving someone who is’ speaks to our overarching mission to welcome and celebrate EVERYONE for all of life’s magical moments.

What makes the fragrances that you have created unique?

My fragrances are unique because they were intentionally created to complement the wearer’s aura or essence. These are soft scents that do not overpower. 

What is the feeling or atmosphere that you would like your scents to create?

The feeling I want my customers to leave with is one of fullness and beauty. I have a quote that answers this perfectly, “You are the masterpiece, everything else is an accessory.”

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry? 

My fragrances are not cookie cutter and do not follow the recipe for quick hand grabs. I take my time when it comes to creating my scent collection which gives way for my artistry in perfumery and those involved to shine. I am a huge advocate of DEI and think it’s necessary in an industry that can get pretty stale, pretty quickly. Without diversity, there’s no growth, no evolution and gaps in the industry offering. I will continue to promote DEI by being intentional and supportive of diversity in brand campaigns and spotlighting DEI brands on my social platforms.

What makes the fragrances that you have created unique?

This is a complex question, I can say first of all the way in which it is made we have followed the enfleurage technique. Second the raw materials, our Fior Di Chinotto Parfum is made with the petal Chinotto flower, a unique citrus tree harvested only in Liguria West Coast of Italy. This fragrance is inspired by the fearless women because it follows an interesting storytelling of this plant.

What is the feeling or atmosphere that you would like your scents to create?

Unique and visible recognizing the niche and artisanal aspect of the art of perfumery. Between the notes of Chinotto, honey, jasmin, I enhance the beauty of the women.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” and how will you support TFF’s commitment to promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion within the fragrance industry?

I think that our Fior Di Chinotto perfectly contributes to inspire the world to discover the artistry and the passion of fragrance. Being a family focused business in the fragrance world since 1980, we create this unique scent with the intention to give a tribute to the niche and artisanal fragrance world. We are constantly developing.

I am thinking of proposing a webinar-funded scholarship towards education, programs and recruitment. I have already discussed with Mrs. Virginia Bonofiglio in hopes that we can organize something in 2023.

We have created a solid cosmetic collection that received awards in Italy and the US. This is one of the top lines in fragrance for sustainability! You will have the chance to try this unique fragrance soon!!!

As the year 2022 draws to a close, the content for this issue of Accords includes reflections of members of the TFF Board of Directors and new 2023 TFF members who we welcome for the coming year. This time of year is so focused on our fragrance community surging in sales, we were limited in time and space to those who could contribute in a very rapid turn around and we thank them for sharing their insights.

Thank you also to April Long, our fabulous Accords editor, who was able to weave this interesting mix of perspectives in this issue from retailers, fragrance houses and brands. Our #1 priority #FragranceForwardTFF will always be included in all we do as a united community as you will find new voices join us and all together we continue to take action.

When we return in January to launch the new year, we look forward to a January TFF Board meeting where we will all share and introduce a few new Board members and welcome many new 2023 members whose brands range from Indie to mega size.

All of us on the TFF team wish all of our fragrance community on the planet very happy holidays and a healthy, prosperous New Year 2023! We are grateful for your support and guidance, as we look forward to 2023 with exciting new events, activities, and action all focused on the positivity of fragrance.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On October 25th, TFF celebrated 2022 Circle of Champions honoree Artemis Patrick with a lively dinner event at 583 Park Avenue attended by hundreds of beauty and fragrance industry leaders. As Executive Vice President and Global Chief Merchandising Officer for Sephora, Patrick’s impact on how fragrance is bought and sold cannot be under-stated, and the evening highlighted not only the inspiring breadth of her achievements—from the way she has pioneered Sephora’s retail prowess to her dedication to DEI and ensuring inclusivity within the company and on the sales floor—but also the unflappable attitude, enterprising vision, and sense of fun that she brings to work every day (always in her signature cowboy boots). For this edition of ACCORDS, Patrick reflects on her career, and what it means to be recognized for accomplishments so close to her heart.

What does it mean to you to be inducted into the TFF Circle of Champions?

It is truly such an honor! The fragrance category has always played such an integral role in the Sephora experience, and it has been so exciting to not only witness but to play a part in driving forward the evolution of the category. To be recognized by the esteemed Fragrance Foundation and receive the Circle of Champions Award is just thrilling for me and my team.

When Sephora first came to the US in 1998, with a giant fragrance organ in the middle of the store imported from France (believe it or not, we still have one in our corporate office!), everyone knew we were the underdogs in beauty, but we were an even bigger underdog in fragrance. And every single fragrance merchant that has walked through the Sephora doors for the past 24 years, has had to fight to disrupt and innovate, and their hard work has truly paid off. This award is for them.

What have been some of the most defining moments of your career?

I have been very fortunate to work for a company that believes in continuous innovation and in pushing boundaries; since its inception, Sephora has always managed to be at the forefront of what is new and next in beauty, and it’s been thrilling to play a role in that. But there are of a course a few moments of which I’m especially proud:

In 2018, my team and I launched the Clean at Sephora program, which effectively established “clean beauty” as a category and set the standard for how to think about and shop for such products. Clean at Sephora has experienced tremendous growth since then – including strides made in the fragrance category, which has historically not been a place where “clean” is easy to achieve – and ultimately prompted the subsequent debut of our Clean + Planet Positive program in 2021, which accounts for product sustainability as well. Beauty shoppers continue to be increasingly ingredient-conscious and sensitive to how their choices impact the planet, and I’m so proud that we have played a leading role in helping them to better understand and navigate what can be a complex and confusing category.

Another proud moment came in 2020, when calls for racial justice were quickly taking hold. Aurora James, Brother Vellies’ founder (and friend of Sephora), very publicly issued a call-to-action for retailers to take the 15 Percent Pledge and commit to building a product assortment of which 15% are Black-owned brands – and Sephora was the very first major retailer to step up and do so. Since then, we have reached 15% in the hair care category and have more than doubled our assortment of Black-owned brands – in part through our Accelerate brand incubator program, which focuses exclusively on supporting and launching BIPOC-owned brands. But this is a long-term journey we’re on, and we look forward to launching even more BIPOC-owned brands in the months and years to come.

Lastly, another defining moment of my career was the transition to my full-time global position. When the role of global CMO was first created, it was done with the intent of accelerating the global expansion of exclusive and differentiated brands, and I’m so proud of the great strides we’ve made the past few years. This has been such a rewarding and exciting time in my career, and I look forward to continuing to expand Sephora’s global reach with my incredibly talented team.

What have been the greatest challenges you have faced?

The pandemic was one of the hardest times both professionally and personally. It was a time when leaders had to figure out different ways to keep their teams motivated and connected in a time of extreme uncertainty. By nature, I get so much of my energy by the people around me, so being isolated from my team and our brand partners was especially challenging. I learned during this time that in order to take care of others I had to also take care of myself and tried to encourage my team to do the same. I also learned how important the power of connection is, and made conscious efforts to connect in other ways (a quick call, a kind text) and am cognizant now more than ever how important those human connections are in building a strong company culture.

What is the best career advice you ever received?

I once was in a situation where the issue at hand was so overwhelming that I wasn’t sure where to start. I remember my leader at the time telling me “if Rome is burning, protect your house.” In other words, control only what YOU can control. While it may seem simple, it’s so important that as leaders we focus on what we can control and help guide our teams to do the same. This advice always guides me if I’m feeling overwhelmed and I think also helps me prioritize!

What would you say the future of fragrance retail holds?

While fragrance was once something that was viewed as more special occasion-based, the pandemic really changed the way consumers engage with the category, as people began to turn to it more and more as a form of self-care, both with personal fragrance and home fragrance. We’ve seen that behavior hold strong and anticipate people will continue to shop the category in that way.

We’re also seeing that younger consumers are highly engaged with fragrance. This is a generation that cares about the planet, transparency, diversity and inclusion – and they shop with those values at the forefront. So for fragrance brands to succeed, it will be very important that they understand the nuances across different generations and how to communicate and connect with each – especially Gen Z.

How have your accomplishments aligned with #FragranceFowardTFF?

#FragranceFowardTFF is such an inspiring and important initiative for the fragrance industry, as we all collectively commit to shaping the industry to truly reflect the very diverse community we serve. This could not be more in line with the work we do at Sephora, where we have very much been focused on diversifying our product assortment.

The reality is that there are not yet many Black founders in the fragrance industry, but we and the Fragrance Foundation share the common mission to change that. We launched Jackie Aina’s home fragrance, FORVR Mood, as well as World of Chris Collins last year, and work closely with them to continue building and growing their businesses.

Ultimately, we at Sephora are committed to helping to make the beauty industry at large more representative and truly in service of beauty lovers everywhere – and #FragranceForwardTFF is certainly poised to do the same for the fragrance industry.

TFF places tremendous emphasis on the importance of education—and access to education for all—in creating a future in which the fragrance industry is truly inclusive. The Fragrance Foundation FIT Diversity Scholarship, introduced in 2021, is a powerful door-opener for students from diverse backgrounds interested in pursuing careers in scent. The annual, $100,000 academic award is dedicated to helping students on both the undergraduate and graduate levels of FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance education programs follow their dreams—and, ultimately, bring their creativity and passion to the fragrance business as a whole. This year’s winners, Yasmin Hussain and Monique McKenzie, both undoubtedly innovators-in-the-making, share their love of fragrance, their professional and academic aspirations, and how their commitment to #FragranceForwardTFF will build a better tomorrow for all.

What first inspired your desire to pursue studies towards a career in the fragrance industry?

I’ve always loved fragrance so in the fall of 2020, I took the Advanced Perfumery course at Pratt Institute with Raymond Matts. Learning about the intricacies of each note really fascinated me. Before taking that class, I never knew that the smell of rose had so many individual parts to it! Smelling different notes and families and seeing how they were used in different fragrances made me want to keep learning more and more about what goes into a fragrance.

What are you excited to learn more about in regard to the fragrance industry?

I’m excited to learn more about how fragrance is advertised. I’ve always been interested in both print ads and commercials so I’m excited to learn about the process that goes on behind that. I also look forward to learning more about the science behind fragrance, it’s as interesting as it is challenging.

What does it mean to you to be honored with the TFF FIT scholarship?

I feel endlessly grateful to be given this opportunity, it has enabled me to focus solely on my studies. Not only that, it has also made me feel like I have a place in the industry. Linda, Sharné, and Christina have gone out of their way to be welcoming, affirming and inclusive towards me. I have connected with them on a personal level and feel thankful to The Fragrance Foundation for prioritizing DEI initiatives in education.

How do you believe you can be part of #FragranceForwardTFF moving forward?

I hope to be able to tell stories and create feelings of nostalgia for people like me. I think we all have something different that we can offer and I hope to be able to represent that for people who don’t feel seen or heard. I also hope to one day give people from underrepresented backgrounds affirmation that they too have a place in the fragrance industry.

What first inspired your desire to pursue studies towards a career in the fragrance industry?

My first memory, and frankly love, of fragrance comes from my father. Living in Virginia Beach, my father often traveled for work during the week, joining my mother and I on the weekends.

While I didn’t quite know all the days of the week, I knew it was the weekend when the scent of my father’s Ralph Lauren legendary Polo fragrance arrived at our home in Virginia Beach. Ralph Lauren describes the fragrance as “celebrating the timeless appeal of the sporting lifestyle” while blending “the very best of wood, leather and other natural scents to convey a handsome, enduring character.” And my father was quite the handsome character.

I could easily find myself entranced in the top and middle notes of lime zest, leather and cedar once he walked through the door. But it was the scent of balsam, patchouli, and oakmoss, the base notes, that stayed throughout the week, lingering in all the places he was…the kitchen table where we ate dinner, the sofa where we watched weekly episodes of In Living Color and even my pillow where he tucked me in. I often found myself perusing through my parent’s closet and even trying on my father’s jackets and shirts to recreate that moment of him walking through the front door.

Nearly forty years later, my father still wears that fragrance. While a seemingly innocuous fragrance in a green glass bottle, it proves how much power fragrance has. Fragrance has the power to comfort us, to make us feel at home, and even to bring us joy and laughter; for decades, it’s been an inside joke between my mother and I about how much of the fragrance my father wears.

What are you excited to learn more about in regard to the fragrance industry?

It’s this power of fragrance that inspired me to join the Class of 2024 of the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management Master in Professional Studies program, the only program of its kind in the U.S. where classes are held in the only working fragrance laboratory on a U.S. college campus. Not only will this program provide me with in-depth knowledge about the role of scent and hands-on olfactive training, I’ll learn to identify consumer preferences as well as the societal, cultural, and other trends that shape them, like familial relationships akin to my relationship with my father, and turn those into brand stories, integrated marketing communications strategy and brand loyalty.

What does it mean to you to be honored with the TFF FIT scholarship?

With the support of The Fragrance Foundation, I can further the organization’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance while also serving as a face for the diversity, equity and inclusion pledge and how people can commit to breaking barriers for people of all backgrounds in launching, growing and sustaining careers in the fragrance industry.

How do you believe you can be a part of #FragranceForwardTFF moving forward?

According to The Cut, Nielsen reported in 2018 that Black people were the biggest consumers of fragrance, responsible for 23 percent of the market (which translates to $151 million) while making up 14 percent of the population. Despite being such avid consumers of fragrance, Black people are rarely, if ever, represented in the industry — whether in advertisements, behind the scenes, or in retail spaces. With the support of the Fragrance Foundation and their objective to nurture talent, I’ll design and create a functional fragrance for a consumer product as part of my final joint interdisciplinary project with a focus on diverse and underrepresented communities. This will aid in my pursuit of innovation in the cosmetics and fragrance industry. Ultimately, I want to leverage my 15 years experience designing campaigns that evolve brand positioning, drive brand awareness and build brand equity for the most iconic and recognized global brands to inspire brand affinity and consideration, increase cultural relevancy and reach diverse audiences within the fragrance industry.

How do you approach holiday candles and scents for diptyque?

Diptyque’s holiday candles are important for consumers, and something they eagerly look forward to. They are highly anticipated and always an exciting challenge for me to create – each candle must be unique, powerful and synonymous with pleasure.

I like to design surprises by proposing very different scents every year. Something I really look forward to is the idea of knowing that I’m going to participate in the magic of the holidays. Diptyque’s holiday collection, it’s like Christmas before the hour!

What were the inspirations behind this year’s collection?

This year, the theme is nostalgic, childhood memories in 3 different accords: a seasonal pine tree, with unexpected accents of mimosa, a wood fire blended with swirls of hot chocolate and the third is the idea of a snowflake if it had a scent. I was very inspired by the idea of imagining a smell to represent a snowflake – its star-pattern shape is so delicate, and inspires you to imagine the most beautiful fragrances.

The idea was to capture the magic and beauty of the holidays.  

What smells are most emblematic of the holiday season for you personally?

The smell of a Christmas tree. Imagining the scent of snowflakes. The spices used in a festive cake. But what I love the most, is the mix of all of the season’s amazing smells, they’re so distinct yet complementary.

What were the inspirations behind the Harlem Candle Company St. Nicholas candle?

The Harlem Candle Company St. Nicholas candle was inspired by the feeling of comfort, nostalgia and unique memories associated with family time enjoying freshly baked cake together. The brightness of winter citrus infused with a special blend of spices and woody notes create joyful holiday spirit all year around.

How is creating a candle scent different from a traditional fragrance?

Creating a candle scent is like composing music where all the ingredients of the scent will diffuse simultaneously in harmony. While crafting a traditional fragrance is like writing a story where the ingredients of the fragrance will appear, take turns, and reveal themselves magically over time.

What smells are most emblematic of the holiday season for you personally?

The holiday season smells for me a contrast of warmth and freshness where the outdoor crispy air fuses with textured ambery fragrances and delicious spiced fruit cake baking in the oven.

How do you approach holiday candles for NEST?

It starts with pursuing or capturing a specific moment or emotion – almost always something rooted in nostalgia, but of course something new and different for NEST. And from there, it becomes ingredient driven – what are the notes or ingredients evocative of the moment we want to bring to life?

What were the inspirations behind the 2022 NEST holiday scent?

The idea was, quite simply, to capture peak holiday – the vast but very specific array of scents that quintessentially represent the season – those iconic spices and fruits, citruses, but also warming, cocooning gourmand notes for those indulgent cravings.

What smells are most emblematic of the holiday season for you personally?

For me, it’s always been a combination of holiday flavors and seasonal ingredients – gourmand, indulgent, sweeter notes (those of hot chocolate, cinnamon, eggnog, roasted chestnuts) – but it’s also all about the outdoor winter elements and those that capture nature in its rawest – crisp woods, fir balsam and frosted pine, or even cozy, smoky fireplace vibes.

Our November Accords includes valuable and inspiring content from 3 perspectives: our 2022 Champion, Sephora’s Artemis Patrick, the first ever TFF FIT Diversity Scholarship recipients, and perfumers who share their holiday candle creativity. Although their roles are certainly different – retail executive, students and perfumers – all share their passion and appreciation of fragrance.

November is a special month for all of the fragrance community as we celebrate Thanksgiving here in the USA and look forward to the holidays next month globally. This year the meaning of Thanksgiving and all the holidays has an even greater feeling of gratitude than possibly ever before. Although the globe is filled with challenging news daily, we have a renewed appreciation for health, happiness and our in person gatherings. As a fragrance community and industry, our gratitude extends to all consumers who have discovered and elevated the important role fragrance plays in daily life to enhance their experiences, transport them spiritually, indulge in self care and of course enjoy the “invisible accessory”.

Happy Thanksgiving from the entire TFF team!

We appreciate your support and are grateful we are united with #FragranceForwardTFF to welcome all and celebrate together. We wish you all great health, happiness and success as we kick off the holiday season and fragrance shopping!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

On October 20^th, TFF broadcast its second annual Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion webinar: Moving Forward, Together. For this installment of the Foundation’s ongoing and committed effort to galvanize and support DEI initiatives throughout the fragrance industry, national news anchor (and fragrance lover) Arthel Neville moderated a compelling talk with Bernardo Möller, Founder and Creative Director of House of Bö, Nicole Monson, Senior Vice President, Equity and Engagement at the Estée Lauder Companies Inc. and Shawn Outler, Chief Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Officer at Macy’s Inc. In a thoughtful, in-depth conversation, the three discussed how and why the inclusivity tenants championed by #FragranceForwardTFF are so important and impactful for fragrance brands large and small, fragrance retailers and marketers, and the consumer. Here, they share their thoughts about where the industry stands, and what they hope to see moving forward, together.

What does inclusivity mean to you when it comes to fragrance – from the scent to the ingredients to the design?

I love how the process of creating a fragrance is so specific to its creator’s life story, whether it is inspired by personal memories, culture or background, but by the time it reaches consumers it is a totally subjective experience open to each person’s interpretation. Fragrance is a universal language that is not constricted by race, color, background or sexuality. 

House of Bō’s minimalist design and aesthetic is meant to inspire neutrality.

How do you make sure that your message of inclusivity is in everything you communicate to the consumer?

House of Bō is a community where your definition of self is not only encouraged but celebrated. We believe that authenticity leads to more meaningful human connections that ultimately nurture our soul. When you learn to appreciate your own uniqueness you will understand the value of accepting others as they are. It’s about embracing everything about yourself. It’s your story, your culture, your heritage, your color, your body type, your sexuality.

Inclusivity is at the core of our brand DNA. Everything we do, from our storytelling, to our campaigns and posts, is meant to reflect sustainability, diversity and inclusion. As a small company we make sure we surround ourselves and work with people who uphold and share our values and we are proud to say that our work-force and talent consists of a diverse group of minds that allows us to see things from different perspectives.  

What has been the most impactful progress you have seen in DEI in the fragrance industry so far, and where do you think the most work still needs to be done?

Diversity Equality and Inclusion is a topic that is being discussed across the board in all sectors and thankfully the fragrance industry is not staying behind, thanks to people in executive positions who truly care about this subject. It’s important to ensure we keep appointing people who genuinely understand the value of having a diverse and inclusive work environment. 

These conversations have had the most impact on me because I am an example of how these platforms create opportunities for people like me to have a voice and to showcase my interpretation of fragrance. These conversations lead to change and these changes inspire young entrepreneurs to think it is possible to follow your dreams. 

We have to keep the conversation alive and make sure we continue to support brands that carry this message in a genuine way, and by genuine I mean brands that are not just looking to check off a box. More and more consumers are searching for brands that they can relate to. People don’t want to buy just a pretty product, they are looking for communities that share their same values and ideals. 

I would love to see more perfumers from different walks of life succeed, not just women but also trans, queer and all other minority groups.

What do you think an inclusive fragrance industry looks like from a consumer’s perspective?

An inclusive fragrance industry is one where consumers feel heard, where their needs are met in product offerings, and where they see themselves reflected in industry marketing practices. In addition, inclusivity means having the fragrance industry engage in the communities in which their consumers live and work on issues that matter to them year-round. Brand investment needs to be ongoing, not solely when engagement with historically marginalized groups seems convenient, like during Black History Month or Pride Month.  

An inclusive fragrance industry is deliberate and focused in the actions it takes to be more inclusive and intentionally prioritizes marginalized communities, including increasing accessibility and taking meaningful actions to ensure perfumers, and other fragrance industry employees actually look like consumers. Representation is critical. There must also continue to be an evolution of language – a move away from terms that are offensive and incendiary.  

The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. aspires to be the most inclusive, equitable, and diverse beauty company in the world. We are constantly evaluating and evolving in DEI—a core tenet of our overall business strategy—to ensure progress towards this goal. When companies take the position of people first, beginning with the support and cultivation of their employees, advocacy for all is given a wider lens. Being intentional in our marketing and product offerings and allowing our consumers to see themselves in our brands, increases returns in brand reputation, consumer affinity, and leadership in our industry.

How do you think that strides in DEI within corporations will affect the fragrances that are made and the way that they are sold?

Consumers, investors, non-profits, and other stakeholders are holding corporations accountable to prioritize DEI in every facet of their operations. With greater awareness of the systemic barriers that impact historically marginalized communities, comes a greater responsibility for the fragrance industry to be more bold, ambitious, and impact-focused when it comes to inclusion practices. 

The strides that are being made by corporations to prioritize and invest in DEI undoubtedly will have an effect on the ways fragrances are made and sold. Indeed, the progress will help reduce and hopefully eventually eliminate the barriers to entry into the industry. For instance, corporations are deciding to make corporate investments in entrepreneurial programs, and professional development that is engaging talent from marginalized communities. The racial diversification of talent brings the variety of perspective that the fragrance industry needs to be relevant to racially diverse consumers in product offerings, marketing practices and the markets in which it engages. 

We’re also seeing an evolution toward more gender inclusivity, with the use of gender-neutral notes like sandalwood, patchouli, and amber, as opposed to fruity, floral scents that have dominated historically. These steps away from the gender binary, and other boxes that exclude the non-dominant culture, are essential on the path to an inclusive industry. 

But there is much more to be done to deliver a fragrance landscape that is as dynamic and diverse as the consumers we hope to serve.

What has been the most impactful progress you have seen in DEI in the fragrance industry so far, and where do you think the most work still needs to be done?

The most impactful progress that I have seen in DEI in the fragrance industry so far has been where companies and organizations make DEI a strategic business imperative backed by commitments that can be measured, evaluated, and evolved. 

At ELC, we’ve backed up our intention by making public-facing and internal commitments — starting with commitments to racial and gender equity. We’ve created our new function, the Equity and Engagement Center of Excellence, and established a Gender Equality Taskforce to drive accountability around this work. Progress towards our goals includes: Creating Advancement Opportunities for Black Talent (since its launch, we have increased our hiring of Black candidates to 18.8%, surpassed our goal of doubling our hires from historically Black colleges and universities, created a program with Florida A&M University offering summer internships with teams in NYC and Miami along with scholarships, and more); Investment in Systemic Change (We distributed a total of over $11.8M to support external organizations and non-profits advancing racial and social justice and addressing disparities); and Making Strides Toward Equal Pay for Women (Globally, 55% of positions VP and above are held by women and we’re on track to achieve women’s pay parity this year). 

Our industry requires more diversity represented across all levels and particularly in leadership. Removing bias from our hiring, evaluation, and promotion practices and creating workplaces where employees of color and other historically marginalized groups, feel safe, valued, and have opportunities for advancement, are critical. We must go beyond simply attracting talent to retaining talent and investing in marginalized communities to cultivate a diverse talent pipeline. In addition, a great deal of work remains to provide access to resources for entrepreneurs in the fragrance industry. For most, it is cost prohibitive to build a fragrance brand without financial support from corporations, investors and community-minded organizations. Finally, there must be a heightened focus and sensitivity to marketing practices in the fragrance industry. Clear actions need to be taken to ensure that models that appear in marketing campaigns no longer over index on white, heteronormative models. 

What are some of the more effective DEI strategies you’ve seen so far?

I think companies that have been most effective when they have tapped into diverse communities in the right way, and really listened to understand better what’s impacting those communities and how to address them.

We’ve had ERGs for years, but we’ve seen a different level of activation with our ERGs and advocacy as it relates to them. I think most recently about what happened in Buffalo and Uvalde and the Dobbs decision. Our ERGs have really stood up and we have allowed them to take the lead in driving conversations with those who don’t really understand how these different societal issues have impacted communities. Bringing folks together to express how they feel and what this has meant to them, and allowing others to listen and be educated. We have created this environment, and I think that has been successful.

I think overall everyone was running to the table in 2020 to make a declaration about what they were going to do. The companies that did it well went back to their values and said here’s who we are and made a decision about whether or not anti-racism was in line with those values and then began reinforcing that with everybody in their organization. Those who did it really well followed it up with real action, held people accountable, and put real measurement around it. It’s about activating the people in your work force, standing for something and making a declaration, but also taking action and driving accountability, because that’s how you impact the business you do every day. And I think where the real change happens is when you can change the systems in which you operate to include a more diverse and equitable environment.

How can the industry be more accountable in driving DEI across all levels?

We must create a holistic plan that addresses all levels of the issue with clear measurable goals. This includes internal and external, audience and stakeholders. For example at Macy’s our DEI strategy has five focus areas: our colleagues, customers, suppliers, community, and marketing. And for each area we have set targets we want to meet. Additionally, there must be alignment and accountability across all levels of an organization on these goals. Aspirations, accountability, and action. You also have to be public about it, share it, be very clear, so that everyone understands what you are marching towards.  

What can we do as a community to support #FragranceForwardTFF?

Join us in creating meaningful, impactful, sustainable, measurable, transparent goals as it relates to this work. I would also say, let’s reframe the conversation. This to me is always about opportunity: the opportunity to understand each other better, to discover new businesses and get at new categories and really expand and grow our industry at large. I just say, what a huge incredible opportunity we have every day to elevate what we do and include more voices and grow. This is the next evolution of our industry, let’s embrace it in a positive and meaningful way for greater change and impact for all.

Diversity brings ideas, energy, and insight to any field, but building a truly inclusive workforce begins with education: for students, knowing what opportunities exist can be the first step towards discovering and flourishing in a rewarding occupation. This month, TFF rolled out its exciting Scents of Success Career Panel Discussion Series, in which TFF and six participating member companies conducted educational sessions about careers in the fragrance industry at Florida State University, University of Rochester, William Paterson University, Spelman College, City College of New York and Rutgers University.  These panels brought 500 students together with fragrance professionals to discuss roles at fragrance houses, brands, retailers and more—highlighting the fact that the fragrance industry has many entry points, and is committed to recruiting and retaining teams that reflect the entire USA population. The feedback from these events was overwhelmingly positive. 

As Sophia Bressani, a student at Florida State University, said of the event with Cosmo International Fragrances, “I could tell all the panelists were very passionate about what they do, and it made it a very fun, engaging, and insightful panel discussion.” 

For Priyansh Patel, a student who attended the Rutgers University event with Robertet, the experience was truly mind-opening: “As an engineering and business student, I never even knew fragrance companies like Robertet existed. However, this event bridged the gap between my two passions and showed how they are interrelated. From learning the chemical backgrounds of creating the ‘perfect scent’ from Robertet’s Senior Perfumer to understanding the business strategies that are necessary to sell perfumes, I am extremely grateful to have been able to gain exposure to this field.”

Keokuk Kight, Quality Enhancement Plan Manager Institutional Effectiveness, Spelman College, noted that the college’s October 12^th panel with L’Oréal was “a fabulous opportunity to bring industry professionals to the students to have real-life and behind-the-scenes conversations about the fragrance industry. Students were able to ask questions, network, and get information on valuable internship opportunities. It was a true gem of an experience.”  

Spelman student Kathleen J. Bostick was so inspired that she has already begun exploring how she might bring her passions and educational expertise into the fragrance world: “Attending this event was incredibly beneficial to me,” she said. “I have a strong background in plant biology and having the opportunity to see firsthand how the marketing is implemented in such a dynamic product was very eye opening. Seeing the Black women speak about their experiences was incredibly inspiring and I am really happy that a company with such prominence and success is devoted to creating spaces for Black women and equity. I was left with interesting ideas on how neuroscience can be utilized in a customer’s reaction to smells from these fragrances and potential extraction techniques that could be utilized for this product. I decided to reach out to several representatives for further guidance on future opportunities there may be for someone with my background. I am excited for what the future holds!”

Students at the City College of New York event with LVMH lauded it as “refreshing and valuable,” and, as student Lol Amu said, “the panelists and Fragrance Foundation members were very warm and encouraging to students.” For CCNY student Nisa Manzar, “the Scents of Success panel was an amazing opportunity for CCNY Ad/PR students to learn first-hand what it’s like to work in the luxury fragrance world. Hearing the panelists stories of how they got to where they are today was both inspiring and informative. Some of the panelists also spoke about their day-to-day responsibilities within their roles which helped us as students get more familiar with what working in the luxury industry looks like. Hearing from successful professionals that were once in the same boat as students was very comforting.”

It wasn’t just the students who benefited from these enormously fruitful events. Seeing the enthusiasm and boundless potential that the students brought to the table energized and inspired the panelists too. 

As Vanessa Santarossa, LVMH Head of Education and Events, said of the CCNY event, “Connecting with the students left me feeling invigorated and recharged!”

What was your experience at the Scents of Success presentation and discussion?

Cosmo’s corporate mission is “People, Parfum, Purpose,” so naturally, we were excited that we had the opportunity to be a part of this discussion as we and The Fragrance Foundation alike, all strive to make it our Purpose as mentors within the industry to enhance the world of fragrance through education. It was a pleasure to exchange and share with a group of young talents who were thoroughly engaged and already showed excitement and passion for the industry at this point in their studies.

Why did you personally want to be involved with the Scents of Success program?

As a Notable myself, I understand the mission is to lead, promote the industry and help guide future generations, and what better way to do that than expand our reach and inspire the next generation of future fragrance lovers! Exploring new career profiles will be crucial as we develop new strategies as a company, and by collaborating with universities around the country, we have an excellent opportunity to expand the scope of the fragrance industry. 

What aspect of the discussion were students most interested in?

They were an incredibly dynamic group of students who were really interested in all aspects of the industry! Many were eager to understand the process of fragrance creation and the role of a perfumer so having a perfumer present in the discussion was especially exciting for them. They also understood that the fragrance industry is very consumer-focused, so speaking to them about the importance of consumer insights, the connection between fragrance and brand identity, and how we make our client’s stories come to life through fragrance was a key part of our discussion. We were also asked about our individual roles and personal journeys, so sharing the stories of how our careers began in the fragrance industry was fun.

Why do you think this initiative and #FragranceForwardTFF is so important for the future of the industry, and what would you like to see happen next? 

It is important because the industry will never stop evolving, and we must be ready to evolve with it, and attracting new mindsets and new ways of thinking will be crucial to stay relevant. The consumer landscape is changing, and diversity, equality, and inclusion are at the forefront of it all; this initiative will help to open the industry up to many more professional profiles, which will help us grow and answer future demands. Creating meaningful connections and experiences where we can inspire minds, nurture young talent and embrace new ways of creative thinking will be a must! 

What was your experience at the Scents of Success presentation and discussion?

It was an amazing experience being able to represent the fragrance industry for the Scents of Success Career Panel discussion. It was empowering to see the engagement from the students and their excitement around the fragrance industry. Having the opportunity to share not only my experience, but my colleagues’ experience in the industry and shed light on diverse backgrounds intrigued a lot of the students and warranted an interactive discussion.

Why did you personally want to be involved with the Scents of Success program?

I am passionate about the fragrance industry and continuing to build and move it forward. I also love helping others achieve their goals and providing guidance to be successful. Being a part of this program gives me the platform to not only speak about my passion, but also be excited about the future of the industry and guide them on a successful path.

What aspect of the discussion were students most interested in?

They were interested in the communication and interaction a house has, both internally and externally. Conveying the message that it truly takes a village to build a fragrance, they were interested in what happens at each step of the process from sourcing raw materials, to making the fragrance, to obtaining the brief, to manufacturing, etc. They learned more about the layers of what goes into making a product and that was interesting for them.

Why do you think this initiative and #FragranceForwardTFF is so important for the future of the industry, and what would you like to see happen next? 

The fragrance industry is filled with opportunities, and I am so thankful for the doors that it has opened for me. This initiative is so important to continue to push our industry forward to innovate, create, and be an inclusive place to work. We live in an ever changing marketplace and we need dynamic leaders to help us continue to evolve and be at the forefront of innovation. I would love to see more involvement and collaboration between brands and suppliers with universities – promoting who we are, what we do, and educating students on the beautiful world of fragrance.

What was your experience at the Scents of Success presentation and discussion?

My colleagues and I were so proud to host a career panel with the Fragrance Foundation and Coty. This event allowed students an up close look at working in fragrance by hearing personal stories from panelists, each with different backgrounds, skill sets and passions. From fragrance development and marketing to digital and supply chain, we had a global mix of experts who shared real world anecdotes on what their day-to-day looks like and advice for those looking to break into the industry.  

Even with the formality of an organized event, the conversations felt very personal and real. Students asked practical, smart questions and we all learned a little more about each other. We walked away as inspired as the students!

Why did you personally want to be involved with the Scents of Success program?

Seeing is believing. Growing up in NY, I was very familiar with career paths in finance, law and psychology. I saw these fields first hand through family and friends. I treasured fragrance, but thought of it as a special treat or something to purchase. As I met experts in the industry overtime, I started to have those “aha” moments, picturing myself working alongside them. One future mentor literally opened her laptop once over dinner and showed me a presentation she was working on so that I could visualize what “a day in the life” could look like. This program lets us ‘open up the laptop’ across a range of roles for a new generation of talent.

What aspect of the discussion were students most interested in?

We were all excited by the passion from students and the practical questions they asked. They were very interested in decoding job titles, connecting school disciplines with fragrance positions, what the day-to-day might look like and how we used soft skills to influence colleagues at work. At a school known in part for medicine, engineering and business, it was inspiring to watch students realize in real time new potential paths ahead, pairing multiple disciplines to find success and joy in fragrance.

Why do you think this initiative and #FragranceForwardTFF is so important for the future of the industry, and what would you like to see happen next? 

Fragrance inspires connection, we find ourselves in our favorite scents and experience the artistry of it together. Open panel events and mentorship opportunities help us grow as an industry to reach new audiences and talents. Would love to see the world of experts mirror the diversity of our passionate consumers, sharing more stories and creative visions along the way.

October at The Fragrance Foundation included several significant events. Therefore, we are featuring our annual DEI webinar and the rollout of Scents of Success in this issue of Accords and will highlight the Circle of Champions and more in the November edition.

October 20th we proudly presented our 2nd annual DEI #FragranceForwardTFF webinar, “Moving Forward Together” an extraordinary, inside look at the fragrance industry – decoding DEI and sharing insights from some leading voices from a variety of perspectives. We applaud our extraordinary Moderator, Arthel Neville who is a trailblazing broadcaster in news and programming who led the panel discussion and the result was captivating, insightful and inspiring.

We greatly appreciate our panelists including Bernardo Möller for sharing his personal and professional journey including his view of the challenges and rewards of entering the fragrance industry with the debut of the House of Bō. Shawn Outler for Macy’s, Inc. and Nicole Monson for The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. also contributed significantly, sharing how their companies have implemented DEI policy, practices and measurement to their employees as well as to consumers. We are united that DEI is an opportunity, and there is much ahead to be accomplished. Together as a fragrance community we must take action to achieve our goals: to recruit, hire, retain and celebrate diversity in all aspects.

TFF and our members will continue this ongoing dialog and most importantly we will continue to take action to lead the fragrance community so that our future industry reflects the diverse USA population. We will not stop!

If you have not yet viewed the webinar, or wish to replay it or share it with others, click through here to our new TFF YouTube channel.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

New York 1 anchor Cheryl Wills knows a newsworthy event when she sees one—and on September 7^th, when she reported directly from The Fragrance Foundation’s inaugural Connections Brunch at Melba’s restaurant in Harlem, she was making news, not just presenting it. Both New York 1 and Wills—who has been with the network since its debut—were marking 30 years of broadcasting, a milestone that made the TFF occasion even more festive. And what a lively event it was: The brunch brought together some 40 industry leaders—including Chris Collins, founder of World of Chris Collins, Teri Johnson of the Harlem Candle Company, and Francisco Costa, creator of the award-winning beauty line Costa Brazil, designers, journalists, influencers and style makers—to celebrate New York Fashion Week and share the latest on #FragranceForwardTFF, the groundbreaking initiative driving DEI in the fragrance industry. Wills, a passionate perfume devotee herself, was connected with TFF via Helen Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer and head of DEI strategy with  Agency of Record Finn Partners, and as the success of the day proved, it was a match made in fragrance heaven. Here she shares her favorite moments of the day and why she believes TFF’s work is so impactful.

What were the highlights of your experience at the TFF Connections brunch?   

The TFF Connections brunch was, shall we say, scent-sational! What a thrill to be in the presence of change agents in the fragrance industry and to meet so many movers and shakers while munching on Melba’s famous chicken and waffles! Linda did a marvelous job hosting the event! Her sincerity and love for the fragrance industry shined through. And you could hear a pin drop during her riveting on the spot interviews with entrepreneurs like Chris Collins.

How did the TFF Connections brunch at Melba’s in Harlem prove to be a great kick off to NYFW & celebrate NY1’s 30th anniversary?  

Great question! NY1’s 30th anniversary is also a celebration of arts and culture and that, of course, includes the fragrance industry! The brunch tied everything together under ONE ROOF!! As someone who has been with NY1 from DAY ONE, this was a really special moment for me! I covered fashion week and many fragrance related stories for more than a decade and met fashion icons like BETSY JOHNSON and reported on her fragrance line and countless others! So this was a delicious reunion for me as well!

Why is an event like the TFF Connections brunch important for New York media?  

The brunch is critical for members of the media to connect the dots and learn more about the fragrance industry from those who know best! Linda Levy is a great connector and thoroughly understands the multi-billion dollar fragrance industry! Linda Levy is also a terrific ambassador for building the brand and her assortment of media titans did just that.

What are your impressions of the #FragranceForwardTFF Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion initiative?  

The diversity angle is especially important to me because I know first hand that the global fragrance industry is dominated by whites. Chris Collins is a trailblazer and it was imperative that he was placed front and center at this important event. There are difficult questions that still need to be addressed.  WHY is Chris Collins one of the very few black-owned fragrance sold at Bergdorf Goodman? Aside from celebrity endorsements by Rhianna and Beyonce etc., the global fragrance Industry has a lot of work to do to level the playing field and welcome perfumers of color to the table. The Fragrance Foundation’s diversity initiative is what drew me to this event! 

What do you love about fragrance, and how do you use it in your daily life?  

Thanks to the amazing gift bag from this exclusive event, I am now baptized in the WORLD OF CHRIS COLLINS! I’ve been wearing it every single day and sharing his amazing journey from supermodel to super-entrepreneur with everyone I meet! I love how fragrance makes me feel. Once I am made up and just before I get dressed, I strategically spray perfume -in all the right places. It’s the finishing touch. When I was a little girl, we lived in public housing in New York City and I will never forget my mother always left the house wearing Charlie – which she routinely purchased from Woolworths! I couldn’t wait to grow up and do the same thing. Now that I’m all grown up and painting the town, it’s my honor to following in my mother’s fancy footsteps!

Melba’s restaurant in Harlem is as celebrated for its welcoming, convivial neighborhood atmosphere as it is for its raved-about comfort food. What better place to make new friends and mark noteworthy progress in #FragranceForwardTFF’s push for diversity, equity, and inclusion in the fragrance industry? The three brand-founders featured at the TFF Connections brunch— Chris Collins, founder of World of Chris Collins, Teri Johnson of the Harlem Candle Company, and Francisco Costa, creator of the award-winning beauty line Costa Brazil—have all been deeply involved and aligned with #FragranceForwardTFF, and each brought a unique perspective and true enthusiasm to the event. Here, the trio of game-changing brand creators reflect on their experiences at the brunch, and share why networking moments that bring together the perfume world with new media are so important for all.  

What were the highlights of the TFF Connections brunch for you? 

The connections! Seeing old friends and making new relationships is what Linda Levy and The Fragrance Foundation is all about. She’s an amazing connector. I always leave her gatherings with new ideas and excitement for what’s to come.

Why do you think an event like this is important, both for the media and the brands? 

It’s imperative that people see fragrance as it really is — for everyone. Fragrance is a headspace. It should transport you to a place of safety, comfort. It has no boundaries. We need to communicate that.

How does Costa Brazil support #FragranceForwardTFF, and what do you hope to see in the future?

We’re both all about sustainability and inclusivity; our missions have long aligned. I’m very inspired by the magic of nature and science, something you can tell if you’ve smelled my unisex perfume Aroma, which features ingredients from the Amazon that evoke stress-reducing phytoncides as well as a patchouli-type oil that was sustainably made in the lab of my parent company Amyris. The perfume comes in either a base of upcycled ethanol derived by Bonsucro-certified sugarcane, or long-lasting pataua oil, the latter of which has great skin hydration and firming benefits. We can make beautiful fragrances using safe sustainable ingredients that don’t rely on petrochemicals or vulnerable plants and animals. And it’s important we do it now, because scent plays a large role in how we internalize life and regulate emotions. Costa Brazil’s tagline is spray it, layer it, evolve with it—and I truly mean that.

What were the highlights of the TFF Connections brunch for you?

The highlight of the TFF Connections Brunch for me was being able to introduce myself, my passion for fragrance and how I came to create the Harlem Candle Co.  It was an honor to meet and network with the journalists and reporters who also have a passion for fragrance and beauty.

What did it mean for you that Connections was held at Melba’s?

I LOVED the fact that the Connections brunch was held at Melba’s in Harlem as Melba’s has become an institution and a place where artists, creatives and influential people in Harlem convene on a regular basis.  I also loved how conveniently located it is relative to where I live.

How does the Harlem Candle Company support #FragranceForwardTFF, and what do you hope to see in the future?

As a relatively new brand among The Fragrance Foundation members (joined in 2020) we hope to become more involved in helping and mentoring the next generation of niche brands owned and operated by women and people of diverse backgrounds.

What were the highlights of the TFF Connections brunch for you?

Besides the delicious food and meeting the great Melba herself, it was nice to meet and talk to the other amazing brand founders that joined the brunch.

What did it mean for you that Connections was held at Melba’s?

To me it was very special to have a fragrance event in Harlem. The neighborhood where I live and where my fragrance brand was born.

As someone who has been involved with. #FragranceForwardTFF from the beginning, what are some of the biggest impacts you have seen from this initiative?

 I’m absolutely thrilled with how far the Fragrance Forward initiative has come. Shining a spotlight on the brands, founders and professionals of color in the fragrance industry is beautiful to see.

How does your Colombian heritage give you a unique perspective on fragrance? 

In the Colombian culture you love to wear fragrance, it’s part of who you are–it compliments your style and personality. You have fun with it. We like to experiment with different scents and if we fall in love with one fragrance, it’s a fragrance of a lifetime.

What are some of the ways you have channeled your heritage into your perfume creations? 

I feel fragrance ingredients are like colors and they evoke experiences and emotions. Culturally we are known for being very positive and optimistic. I want my fragrances to give people joy, take them to a special moment in their lives or to where they have never been before. 

What moments from your career are you proudest of so far?

In 28 years of my perfumery career, I have had a few moments of pride and joy. First, being the creator of VS Bombshell–a brand I connected in my younger years and creating their No.1 scent has been incredible. Also the co-creation of Lancôme Idôle and the work I continue doing with L’Oréal with more to come. I feel very honored as a latina perfumer to be given the opportunity to work in their brands, my ideas resonate with them. And I truly feel very valued, appreciated and recognized. Thanks to all the clients that believe in me, what makes you different makes you very unique and let’s continue breaking a few more barriers.

How does your Mexican heritage give you a unique perspective on fragrance? 

Even if I’m now an “adoptive” New Yorker, having lived in Manhattan for over 26 years, I look back at my Mexican roots and I approach perfume making very “Mexicanly”… (is that a word?). That is, I do it with passion, with respect for history and the past, with optimism and full heartedly. Mexico is a country of contrasts, of culture, of enormous riches, or resilience. Just recently, for the third time, a powerful earthquake hit Mexico City on the same date (formerly, in 1985 and 2017). This is uncanny and the effects of these phenomenons are devastating. Although they are always a source of sadness for everyone, it’s also comforting to see how the Mexican people help each other, recover swiftly and rebuild towards the future with an impressive resilience. 

What are some of the ways that you have channeled your heritage into your perfume creations? 

Mexico is an unfathomable source of inspiration for me. Being the only Mexican perfumer working in the international arena of fine fragrance creation, I wear my Mexican badge proudly and I apply my knowledge of my country very frequently. Be it through my motherland’s food, its music, its literature, the arts, the architecture and archeology, its landscapes or its biodiversity (Mexico is the second country in the world with most original botanical species in the world) I infuse every single perfume I make with this deep love. I can mention Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Jose Maria Velasco and Roberto Montenegro as artists I love; Carlos Pellicer and Xavier Villaurrutia as poets that bring me a lot of pleasure; literary authors Octavio Paz and Juan Rulfo; Luis Barragan as a star architect; and my cousin Gabriela Camara as a splendid contemporary chef when it comes to food! Also, I can affirm that Mexico has the best male singers in the world: my week is not complete if I don’t listen to Mijares, Jose Jose or Alejandro Ferandez. 

What did it mean for you to celebrate Mexican ingredients and inspirations through your collaboration with House of Bō? 

When Bernardo Möller and I started working together on the three perfumes for his brand, we focused on the experience of growing up in Mexico and on the references that we had as  olfactive “imprints.” The “agua de colonia” theme was explored in Agua de Santos. For La Mar, we evoked the sometimes powerful sea breeze (or wind, rather) of the Mexican Pacific Coast, more rocky than sandy.. and for Espirtu, we came up with a never made before woody accord inspired on the precious wood of a Mexican tree called Macuilis. Bernardo grew up in a house in Guadalajara that is surrounded by those trees, and when I mentioned that I was studying its particular woody scent, we knew we had built a connection that is anchored in a deep passion for everything Mexican.

How does your Cuban heritage give you a unique perspective on fragrance?

When you are born and raised on an island, it is inevitable to be inspired by its geography and climate, from the vibrant hues of the Caribbean ocean to the lush verdant nature and even the sun’s radiating heat. In many ways, this has inspired and marked my personal style when it comes to fragrances. I enjoy creating airy, sweet, and irreverent fragrances that combine fresh and tropical fruity touches with notes of spices, exotic flowers, and sea salt to evoke memories of early summer afternoons by Havana’s Malecon. I also like to indulge in combining rich scents of brown sugar, honey, tobacco, and rum to achieve a sophisticated yet relaxed background effect that evokes bold vintage impressions. It is said that fragrances are a reflection of personal taste, but I believe they can also be a reflection of a country and culture. I can share that, as Cubans, we are drawn to daring, strong, and long-lasting fragrances, just the same as our need for our morning cafecito.

What are some of the ways you have channeled your heritage into your perfume creations?

I have recently enjoyed working on a fragrance creation inspired by the most well-known and delicious Cuban cocktail, the mojito. It was stimulating and rewarding to capture the essence of this Cuban classic! From the intensity of the white rum to the cool freshness of mint, the zesty acidity of the lime, and that final sweet touch of sugarcane… the perfect balance of notes for this Cuban girl! It is also fragrances like this where I love to work with one of my favorite Cosmo Ingredients, the Peruvian Lime MD. It is juicy, fresh, zesty, and sparkling, the perfect raw material to conjure up the scent of a Mojito.

What moments of your career are you proudest of so far?

I don’t believe in isolating my career into one proud moment. I believe that when we take pride in our daily work, there is greatness in every project and every fragrance creation. 

I would say that one of the most creative but also fulfilling and joyful experiences I’ve had as a perfumer was being invited to create exclusive fragrances for an immersive live event that was done in partnership with the Miami Symphony Orchestra, located in the historic Moore building in the Miami Design District. Not every day do you get to observe the reaction of hundreds of people enjoying your fragrance while they listen to Wagner and Debussy! Having attended the performance with my family, it was truly a memorable evening that will always have a special place in my heart. 

I also believe that one of my greatest achievements is being part of the Cosmo International Fragrances family!

September marked a major milestone in the BIG return to the office, New York Fashion Week, the UN General Assembly and many fragrance events brought people together at a pace we have not experienced for over 3 years. The timing was perfect for us to host the premiere of TFF Connections Brunch at Melba’s in Harlem.

It was exciting to kick off the new season of fragrance, fashion and culture at such an iconic Harlem restaurant known for not just great food, but for a welcoming ambience to all. The group that gathered was intimate enough that every attendee had the opportunity to make new connections and renew friendships that were virtual in what felt like forever these past few years.

Last fall, as many of you may know, The Fragrance Foundation launched #FragranceForwardTFF.
In this issue of Accords, our editor April Long has captured our spirit of the new event with a Spotlight on our great new TFF TV connection, the extraordinary TV Talk Show Host and Author Cheryl Wills. Cheryl kicked off the NY1 30 year anniversary and NYFW with the exuberant TFF crowd and spent time getting to know the fragrance community.

I had this great opportunity to share The Fragrance Foundation commitment of advancing industry diversity, equity and inclusion. This was the perfect moment to do this by creating connections, fostering connections and inspiring connections and by taking action. We invited guests to make our connections expand to communities and consumers who have not been engaged with us previously. Our mission must expand its reach and we are taking action to reach out to all those who make up the USA population, specifically to those who are underrepresented in the fragrance community.

September Accords features in Scents & Sensibility the 3 brand creators, Francisco Costa, Teri Johnson and Chris Collins, who were special guests highlighted at the event who shared their first hand experiences of making TFF connections.

In celebration of Hispanic Heritage month, we are pleased to share insights from 3 talented perfumers Cosmo’s Esther Morales, Givaudan’s Andriana Medina and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, who share their connection to their heritage and how it inspires their fragrance creations.

A special THANK YOU to our strategic leader and partner Helen Shelton, Global Chief Diversity Officer of Finn Partners who strategizes all aspects of #FragranceForwardTFF with our TFF Senior Director Sharné Jackson and myself as women of action.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

How do you create a bona fide “fragrance destination” for shoppers? Just ask Jeff Gennette, Macy’s, Inc. Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, who has positioned Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Bluemercury as precisely that. The enterprising leader, who has been honored with the prestigious 2022 TFF Hall of Fame Award, has long understood the power of storytelling and interactive experience in fragrance retail. He has made fragrance central to the shopping experience, intuitively recognizing how intrinsically connected it is with fashion and beauty.

This understanding comes from experience. Gennette began his nearly four-decade retail career in 1983 as an executive trainee at Macy’s West in San Francisco. In March of 2017, Gennette was elected Chief Executive Officer of Macy’s, Inc., and Chairman in February 2018. Over the years, he has served in key roles as EVP and Director of Stores for Macy’s Central, and as Chief Merchandising Officer, keeping fragrance front-and-center in the retailer’s merchandising mix.

Gennette’s deep understanding of the consumer — from how they wish to move through a store to how they buy, use, and gift scent — has propelled Macy’s, Inc. to the top tier of fragrance retail. Even more meaningful is the tone that he has set: His commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion has positioned Macy’s, Inc. as a role model in making the fragrance world open and equitable for all.

What does it mean to you to receive the Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame Award?

I am incredibly honored to be receiving this award, but most importantly, I think it’s a testament to the role Macy’s, Inc. has played in elevating and growing the fragrance industry. I humbly accept this award on behalf of my entire team and our valued fragrance partners, without whom this wouldn’t be possible.

What led you to first join Macy’s?

Macy’s is well known in the industry for its executive development program, and the opportunity at a young age to get management experience was what first drew me to the company. I thought I would stay a couple of years and then go to business school, but here I am four decades later. I wouldn’t change a thing.

What lessons did you learn early on in your career at Macy’s that have continued to be relevant in your role as Chairman and CEO?

There are two lessons that still guide me today. One, is the importance of being your authentic self. When you can come to the workplace living your truth, you can fully engage, innovate and bring different viewpoints to the table. The other is to always focus on the customer. Without an unwavering focus on what is right for the customer, you can’t successfully lead a retail business.

What have been your proudest career achievements?

Hopefully that will continue to evolve over time, but right now I would say that I’m most proud of successfully steering Macy’s, Inc. through the most challenging parts of the Covid-19 pandemic. Our team really came together to recover the business and emerge as a healthier and stronger company. I’m so proud of the incredible work that all my colleagues did to continue to deliver for our customers during this unprecedented time.

How and why is fragrance so important to Macy’s?

The Fragrance business is important for our company because it evokes powerful, emotional connections for our customers. Together with our fragrance partners, we have built the business into a powerhouse in the beauty industry, giving customers the opportunity to discover new scents that complement their unique personal style.

What are some of the key ways that you keep customers engaged with fragrance at Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and Bluemercury?

We continue to invest in the fragrance shopping experience across our stores and digital platforms.

We’ve developed rich, creative, sensory experiences that support this emotional purchase. This includes collaborations with our valued partners on product launches, storytelling and leveraging customized digital tools that enable us to bring the very best of the in-store experience to online shoppers.

It is also important for us to innovate and find new ways to engage our customers with the fragrance business through experiences like our recent integration of scents into the Macy’s Flower Show. We’ve also continued to inspire discovery through digital channels as showcased by our live shopping programming on Macys.com and Bloomingdales.com.

What have been the biggest changes you have seen in consumer behavior regarding fragrance over the years?

We have seen fragrance explode as the perfect gift for any occasion. Today we enjoy a strong business in custom gift sets and baskets for all gifting holidays. It’s not only a staple gift for Mother’s Day or Valentine’s Day, but fragrances have also become the go-to gift for marking special moments in people’s lives. We have also seen customers evolve to become true fragrance connoisseurs, increasingly knowledgeable and discerning about what makes a fragrance unique and how that fits with their personal style.

How would you characterize the current state of fragrance retail?

The business continues to expand, adding new and returning customers to the category. The past couple of years have further highlighted the importance of fragrance and scent memory for our customers. Fragrances reminded them of locations they missed or special memories during these trying years. They have also become the perfect self-treat for those seeking a pick-me-up.

What do you predict for the future of fragrance retail?

The next evolution in the business has begun. We’ve started to see how the customer is seeing fragrance as part of their whole lifestyle. They want scent for themselves, their home, car and office. They are making fragrance an essential part of their ecosystem. We also see a huge opportunity for growth, particularly in the luxury segment.

How does TFF’s DEI initiative #FragranceForwardTFF resonate with Macy’s values and practices?

Macy’s, Inc. and The Fragrance Foundation both see diversity, equity and inclusion as bedrock values. They are paramount to creating an equitable future that allows colleagues to be their authentic selves, that reflects and values diverse customers, and one that supports our shared communities. We applaud the work that The Fragrance Foundation is doing to create a more equitable world for all.

Anyone who has watched the documentary NOSE: The Most Secret Job in the World, which follows François Demachy on his travels around the globe, is unlikely to forget witnessing the master perfumer’s passion for selecting exquisite raw materials—just as anyone who has smelled his creations, including Dior Eau Sauvage and Dior Joy, is unlikely to forget experiencing their olfactive magic.

Raised in Grasse, where his father was a pharmacist, Demachy studied medicine before turning to perfumery and embracing the bounty of his native soil. He spent years as the Director of Research and Development at Chanel, and in 2006 became the Perfumer-Creator for Dior, where he dreamed up imaginative and evocative fragrances for the Maison until retiring in 2021.

From meticulous perfume craftsman to somewhat reluctant—or at least very humble—movie star, Demachy is a true legend in the industry. He is known for his gentleness and thoughtfulness, and for his dedication—especially through his relationships with raw material producers in Grasse—to making sure that beautiful ingredients will be available to perfumers for a long time to come. “Maybe in the future I could be a producer of raw materials myself,” he says, speculating on what he might do next. “Who knows? Perhaps I will try. It would be a nice way for me to complete the circle—to be at the very beginning of perfume.”

What does it mean to you to be awarded TFF Lifetime Achievement Perfumer?

It’s hard to say, because there are two feelings. On the one hand, it means it’s the end of my career in a way. On the other hand, I am delighted, of course! I am so proud to receive this award. It is a real honor.

What made you want to be a perfumer?

As the French say, when you eat, you get hungrier: Your appetite comes as you eat. I would say that I didn’t really feel a calling or anything like that to be a perfumer, but my one big advantage is that I grew up in Grasse. And when you are in Grasse, you are never very far away from perfume. Apart from that, it was because I failed in all my efforts to become a doctor or join the medical field in one way or another. At the time, my father was extremely desirous that I should become a doctor, so I tried to obey him, but at the same time I wanted to do something different. So, I decided to try perfumery.

You are known for your love of naturals and your engagement with raw materials. How has that passion shaped your career?

When you learn something in your youth, it stays with you. It leaves a stamp in your mind. And that’s what happened to me. I was lucky because I had the experience of working early on with some very technically knowledgeable and well-established perfumers, even though they were not well known because they remained on the sidelines. They showed me how to use raw materials, particularly those from Grasse, and flowers especially. There is no perfume without flowers—that’s what I learned—and it became part and parcel of who I am. So, when I am making a formula, it just comes out instinctively. It is innate.

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?

I tend to be extremely fussy. I am very fastidious. Perfume for me starts off with an idea, and then I give that idea a shape, and then I put that shape into practice and work to improve it. That’s how l like to proceed. I go into the nitty gritty. As I mentioned, I had two great professors. One was Jean Cavallier, the father of Jacques Cavallier, who taught me that in a mixture of items no one product should stand out. A balance is required. My other professor was Henri Robert, who at the time was the perfumer for Chanel, and he trained me on certain features of raw materials – not the raw material as such, but certain characteristics – and how to use them properly in a perfume. It’s all this knowledge that left its stamp on me and on my formulas. Like everyone, I have my preferences—there are certainly ingredients that I like to use. Patchouli and amber, in particular. I can’t say I have a style, exactly. But it’s true that I like to give perfumes a feeling of roundness, if that makes sense.

You created a modern classic with Dior Eau Sauvage. What do you think is the secret to its success?

I don’t know if there is a secret to it. If there were a recipe, I would have used it again and again. I think most of all it’s about continuity. You start off by choosing your ingredients, and I was very lucky because I was able to select my own raw materials, which was a huge advantage. It’s like in a restaurant where the grand chef selects his own ingredients, and more than half of the end result comes from the quality of those ingredients. And then of course there are certain characteristics of the raw materials. Amber, for instance, is very animal-like. It has a sensuous effect that is deeply and profoundly appealing to us even if we are unaware of it. It’s not something you distinguish, but you feel it, and you want it. So, there you go. Sauvage appeals to the unconscious—that’s how I did it.

Having lived in New York and Grasse and traveled so extensively, what have you observed about the way that people engage differently with fragrance around the world?

There is not really much of a difference. When you talk of perfume, it is a universal language. In fact, that’s the specialty of perfume. If I were to draw a parallel, the closest would be cooking or cuisine. You may not be Chinese, for instance, but you might still love Chinese food. It’s a similar quest for different tastes, for different experiences. Think of our love of spices, though they are used differently around the world, or lavender, rosemary, aromatic herbs—they speak to a universal desire for pleasure. I think that is what this whole thing is about. It’s a story of feeling, of emotion. That has always intrigued me. I have tried to make perfumes that are a source of pleasure for all, that have a universal appeal.

What do you consider to be your greatest legacy?

What I am most proud of is that I actively participated in the renewal of certain very exceptional raw materials from different countries, and particularly from Grasse. I can see the results of the effort today. There are so many perfume houses, so many companies that want to come to Grasse now. Ten or fifteen years ago, Grasse had lost its role, but now it is coming back, and I am so proud of this achievement. I would take that as my legacy.

For more than 40 years, filmmaker Louie Schwartzberg has been capturing the slow, intricate processes of nature. Whether by filming flowers as they open up in time-lapse, or tracing the fascinatingly complex world of mushrooms, as he did in his riveting 2019 documentary Fantastic Fungi, Schwartzberg aims to guide our eyes and hearts to understand and appreciate the beauty of the natural world around us. His next film, which will premiere later this year, will be titled Gratitude REVEALED, and devoted to all of the ways that our experiences—and the planet we live on—can be better when we take the time to feel thankful for each other and this incredible web of life that we are a part of.

In 2021, Schwartzberg was TFF’s partner for Fragrance Day, when his short films of blooming flowers featured prominently throughout the event and on social media, illustrating perfectly and profoundly the occasion’s floral theme. That collaboration has proven to be important and enduring, which is why TFF showed a trailer for Gratitude REVEALED—and welcomed Schwartzberg onstage—at the 2022 Fragrance Foundation Awards, opening the evening’s festivities with a message of thankfulness and community.

What led you to start working on your next film, which is about gratitude?

I started it over a decade ago when I showed a teaser trailer at a TED x SF event, and it went viral. That led to a book, an interview with Oprah on Super Soul Sunday, and lots of heart-warming comments as people said they watch it every day and turned it into a practice. During the pandemic I could not travel, so I finally assembled the nuggets of wisdom and magic moments I have been capturing over the last 40 years, and built this mosaic of gratitude, weaving people together who are diverse, sharing their wisdom, luminaries and remarkable ordinary people, who all have a story and a gift to share.

One of the hardest aspects of the pandemic was disconnection from each other, losing things we often take for granted like seeing friends and family, going out to eat or seeing a movie. Appreciating the little things in life, being grateful for what you do have, is a beginning step going forward out of this pandemic.

How does gratitude connect to nature, and to its preservation?

When you watch a bee pollinate a flower, filling you with wonder and awe, that makes you present in the moment, and that beauty and awareness engenders gratitude. Gratitude for the sweet fragrance the flowers give, gratitude for the fruits, nuts, seeds, and vegetables that will unfold from what I just witnessed. And since I love it, and comprehend that it is the foundation of life, I will do everything I can to protect it.

What does gratitude mean for you personally?

My parents were Holocaust survivors, so living under their roof I saw how grateful they were for every blessing that came their way, a roof over their heads, food on the table, a steady job, and the miracle of being able to have children after what they went through.

How does gratitude connect to the world of the senses – in particular, smell?

I am grateful for the colors, patterns, rhythms, textures and aromas that flowers give us, seducing us to love and care for them, manipulating me to have cameras filming them in time lapse non-stop, 24/7, for over four decades. Squeezing 40 years into 20 hours of film.

How do you think people can become more mindful about experiencing life from a perspective of gratitude?

When you are grateful, you are present, which is what mindfulness is all about: Not thinking about the past or future, but truly being present with another person or in nature. Being present with yourself is what meditation strives for, and we can shortcut that practice by just being grateful.

What can we do to encourage it in others?

If you express your gratitude for others, it actually makes you feel good. And the person you shared your gratitude with will share the gift of gratitude with someone they are grateful for, and the energy of love and compassion keeps rippling out exponentially.

How can taking the time to appreciate the small, beautiful things around us – like blooming flowers or the scent of a perfume – enhance our happiness?

Not only do these moments of appreciation make us present, which is medicinal and good for the soul, but it also pulls you out of the draining world of social media, being distracted by eye candy that is not nutritious. When you fill your mind with good feelings, there is little room left for negative thoughts to enter.

What have been some of the most profound examples of gratitude that you witnessed when making your film?

Filming Erik Weihenmayer, the blind ice climber who climbed Mount Everest. He lost his vision as a teenager and yet overcame adversity and climbed the seven highest summits, and had a family. Courage and resilience are a big part of gratitude because, as Erik said, “sometimes things are taken away, and sometimes things are given to you, and you have to appreciate the things that you have.” These are the stories I love to tell.

What do you consider the mission of your work as a whole?

To unveil the mysteries, by making the invisible, visible, so we can celebrate life.

What has been most satisfying about your collaboration with TFF?

Working with Linda Levy and her team, who bring such passion and creativity to this wonderful event and organization.

TFF Awards 2022 on June 9th at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center in NYC was an extraordinary reunion of the fragrance community after 3 long years. We had an exciting lineup of presenters along with dynamic co-hosts Mario and Courtney Lopez who all share our passion for fragrance as well as our commitment to #FragranceForwardTFF. This signature event included TFF Awards Finalists to celebrate, announcements of TFF Awards Winners and featured iconic Honorees Jeff Gennette of Macy’s Inc. and François Demachy formerly at Dior.

The theme of the evening was Gratitude based on a creative collaboration with award winning artist and filmmaker Louie Schwartzberg. Louie’s incredible time lapse cinematography capturing flowers in miraculous ways brought grandeur to the presentations of all categories of awards.

For all of us in the fragrance community who have great respect and admiration of nature, we had a new guide in Louie who joined me on stage to share his vision. In addition videos of flowers in kaleidoscope mandalas opened and closed the presentations.

We inducted Jeff Gennette into The Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame. This award from the Fragrance Foundation is our way of recognizing a person in the industry who has contributed in a significant and impactful way to the fragrance business. In addition, the person to whom we award this honor must be aligned with our mission and our values. Personally and professionally, Jeff Gennette exemplifies all we stand for at TFF.

Our 2022 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer François Demachy was honored and met many of us for the first time in person after a long pandemic delay. However all of us were happy to hear from François “that it all started for him in New York” where at long last he was returning to be celebrated for his many achievements. I have gotten to know François from across the pond for decades, as I had the exhilarating experience launching Dior Sauvage as a retailer. We had a plan and instead we set a sales record for a launch together.

If you were not able to join us in person June 9th, please experience the highlights at TFF’s website or just click here for the sizzle reel and individual TFF Awards Winners.

Thank you to the entire fragrance community for your support of TFF Awards and throughout the entire year! We are grateful for all of you.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

A few years ago, it might have been hard to imagine the impact that the pandemic has had on the fragrance industry, particularly in the way that it sparked an explosion of the home scent category. With people spending so much more time in their personal spaces, scented candles, diffusers and other ambient fragrances took on new importance: They became tools to create or alter moods, to mark time, and to deliver joy and peace in a time of chaos. Now that the consumer has truly been awakened to their magic, home scents are certain to remain strong. They have become as much a part of the fabric of our lives as the perfumes we wear on our skin: Just as desirable, and thanks to the continued innovation of imaginative brands, increasingly as creative and diverse. Here, the finalists for the 2022 TFF Candle & Home Collection of the Year Award reflect on the state of the industry and share the inspiration behind their lauded products.  

Boy Smells, Fantôme Collection

Matthew Herman, Co-Founder & Creator                     

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

Starting in March of 2020 we saw dramatic increases in demand for the candle and home fragrance category. During these uncertain times the home has become much more than just a place to sleep. It has become an office, a sanctuary, and an extension of ourselves and our identities. Being able to bring small luxuries into the lives of our customers and offer some respite from external stressors brings us a lot of joy. In 2021-2022 specifically, we saw dramatic year over year growth in both home and personal fragrance. It’s been great to participate in the fragrance conversation at a time when it seems to be so greatly appreciated by the consumer. 

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

One of our brand pillars is what we call the ritual of closeness. This is the customer’s ability to self define selfcare. We believe that becoming true to yourself is paramount to your quantity of life. Our Fantôme Collection celebrates this with olfactive structures that encourage a ritualistic sense of meditation. Each of the three scents takes one hero accord, whether that be Thè, Iris or Copal and mixes it with deep smoked accords of wood, leather and spices. Each of the hero accords has an eternal sensibility to them as well as a rich history of different cultural usage throughout time. We hope these very focused olfactive creations induce introspection and reflection. 

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

Creating Boy Smells is a creative second act for myself and David Kien, our other Co-Founder. Having started in fashion and joined the fragrance industry not through training but through deep admiration and personal love it is humbling and astonishing that we have been recognized by The Fragrance Foundation. Being nominated alongside these iconic brands and legendary noses is a highlight of our journey so far. 

dipytque Paris, Curiosity is a Treasure

Julien Gommichon, President Americas

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

Over the past two years, consumers have become increasingly invested in their homes and wellbeing; during this time the brand acquired new clients, discovering the brand online, and through our recent store expansions and incredible 60th anniversary celebration last year. The brand also continues to innovate and add newness to the category, most recently with the introduction of the reed diffuser, which is seeing great success and adding incremental sales to the home category.

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

This was our fifth and final collection of diptyque’s very exciting 60th anniversary year. The common thread of this collection is curiosity, an inheritance passed on by the trio of founding artists who were all astute collectors. Their ability to discern the beauty in all things and unearth wonders led to the success of the Maison. This collection encapsulates this curious lifestyle, which brought us a whimsical and giftable holiday collection.

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

We are thrilled to be included in this category. Our holiday collections are always so near and dear to the brand’s heart; an annual moment that reflects the core ethos of our founders. The success of this collection is now being further emulated through this nomination, reflecting the growing desirability of the brand.

Jo Malone London, Townhouse Collection Diffusers

Celine Roux, Head of Fragrance Development

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

Jo Malone London has always been a lifestyle brand offering scents for the home which create scented stories tailored to any and every space.

Scenting your lifestyle has become even more important recently, where people want to create their own unique space which feels right for them. At Jo Malone London, we experienced unprecedented growth in our home category within the last few years, with significant uplift in our Global Home mix of business, especially our Candles and Diffusers.

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

In Autumn 2020, we launched The Townhouse Collection – a new selection of scents created for the home that takes inspiration from the scented scenes and celebrated moments within a London townhouse; from freshly baked temptations in the drawing room to colorful stories among the vines in the garden room. Six candles make up the collection, each one capturing the unique mood of a particular room or moment within the home.

Wild Berry & Bramble is our ‘welcome home’ scent; a scented pathway leading you to the Townhouse. It was important to have an opening scent in the collection because it’s something you experience when you walk into a person’s home. We felt ours had to be very British and outdoorsy, with this fantastical image of arching brambles and sun-warmed bushes brimming with berries. It creates an inviting mood; it is so joyful and juicy thanks to the fruity blackcurrants and the refined aromatic facets of clary sage and geranium.

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

For us, it’s always a real honor to be recognised by our consumers.

Mizensir, Winter Candle Collection

Alberto Morillas, Master Perfumer & Founder

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

The Candle & Home fragrance category is a growing market. It is a market that has become more and more important because it has become a lifestyle. People like to buy candles to personalize their interior. It’s a sign of refinement. There are more and more brands on the market so there is something for every taste and budget, like perfumes!

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

For the Winter Collection, I wanted to create a poetic and imaged collection by bringing together rich and varied emotions via subtle notes, both delicate and suggestive. Each of the Winter edition scents tells a story, the names of which are the titles: the mountain, the chalet, the coziness, the vacations, the emotions, the memories and the well-being. It is a reflection of my universe and my vision of winter.

With these candles, I wanted you to be able to travel and dream even if you are at home. It is an opening of the mind and imagination.

Let yourself be spellbound and seduced by these fragrances that will catch you by surprise with their magical contents.

What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

For Mizensir and myself, it is a huge honor to be selected for the Consumer Choice category. It makes me happy because there are so many choices and brands on the market and it means that many people have been seduced by Mizensir’s signature and know-how. This is really important to us.

Nest New York, Wild Mint & Eucalyptus Home Fragrance Collection

Laura Slatkin, Founder

In what ways did the Candle & Home fragrance category boom over the past year?

As the greater population remained working from home, or spending more time at home in the past year, the “Scent your Sanctuary” trend continued. During 2020, people found great comfort in fragrancing their homes and creating an enjoyable ambiance to soothe their souls or awaken their senses. Home fragrance is now an important ritual for one’s everyday lifestyle.

What was the inspiration behind the Candle & Home collection nominated for the 2022 Consumer Choice Award?

The inspiration for Wild Mint and Eucalyptus fragrance and our move into the wellness category began five years ago. I experienced this amazing eucalyptus fragrance in the steam room of The Beverly Hills Hotel while on a trip touring colleges with my daughter, Ali. It was so extraordinary to enter The Beverly Hills hotel steam room and inhale this amazing aroma—it immediately lifted my spirits, rejuvenated me and cleared my mind. We asked Jerome Epinette to create a fragrance inspired by the essence of Eucalyptus and we created this outstanding fragrance together—Wild Mint and Eucalyptus. That single experience was the starting point that inspired us to turn to time-honored botanicals and create a collection of wellness fragrances that could enhance one’s body, mind, and spirit.  

 What does it mean for the brand to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

Both The Fragrance Foundation and being nominated for this award is very important to everyone at NEST and to me, both professionally and personally. It’s the industry’s stamp of approval for work well done. It’s a great honor to be nominated —but we want to win!

The Consumer’s Choice awards category is an important one for TFF and the fragrance brands that are nominated, for it truly represents the voice of the shoppers who are buying and enjoying fragrance. This year, the diverse array of nominees is testament to the breadth, creativity, and robust health of the fragrance business as a whole. For this month’s Accords, we quizzed the contenders for Women’s Prestige, Women’s Popular, and Men’s about what it takes to make a crowd-pleasing scent.

Women’s Prestige

Dolce & Gabbana, Dolce Rose

Virginie Bourliere,  US VP Marketing for Shiseido Fragrances

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

One of the latest flowers to join the Dolce bouquet, Dolce Rose expresses a new facet of the Dolce girl – bold, upbeat, and sociable – while also celebrating the most iconic of flowers, the rose. The rose acts as a symbol of love, beauty and femininity that is one of Dolce&Gabbana’s iconic patterns. The fragrance, crafted by perfumer Violaine Collas, is an addictive fruity floral, combining delicate rose absolute and crisp rose centifolia with soft musks and tangy redcurrants. Joyful and full of energy, Dolce Rose is a rose of exquisite allure.

How does the fragrance reflect what the consumer is looking for from the brand?

With this fragrance being especially geared towards our Gen Z audience, Dolce Rose is meant to be playful, fun and energetic. Every component of the fragrance, from the rosy hue of the glass bottle to the vibrant red flower cap, reflects the vivacious spirit of the fragrance. Like its counterparts in the Dolce bouquet fragrance collection, Dolce Rose captures a fun and happy attitude in a fragrance that emulates the lively and daring approach of the Dolce girl: a girl with a vibrant mood and playful energy who speaks her mind and brings her spontaneous feminine spirit to the streets.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

It’s an incredible honor to be among such worthy competition and it’s a testament to our partners and our teams for making this fragrance a great success and for being so well received by our customers.  

 

Kayali, Vanilla 28

Mona Kattan, Founder

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

As a fan of gourmand fragrances, vanilla has always been a go-to note for me, and when we were creating this juice, I wanted something super addictive and indulgent but also comforting and delicious. It was important that this juice could stand on its own or be the perfect topper when it came to pairing it with other scents. I always say Vanilla | 28 is like the whipped cream on your favorite dessert. It just makes everything sweeter, more delicious. 

How does the fragrance reflect what the consumer is looking for from the brand?

When we were developing this brand, Vanilla | 28 was launched with three of our other juices to reflect my love of fragrance layering. All the fragrances were designed to stand on their own and to be layered with others from the original collection to create a certain mood. We got so much criticism in the beginning with people saying, ‘You’re going to tell people to buy two perfumes, you’re insane!’ But layering is so authentic to my heritage and my fragrance experience and I wanted to share that ritual. I owe a lot of the success of this juice to the fragrance community. They have been so supportive and sometimes I truly have to pinch myself when I watch YouTube reviews and TikTok videos showing what they are layering with Vanilla | 28. The love has been overwhelming!

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer’s Choice category?

“It’s surreal to be amongst so many legendary brands. We launched Kayali less than four years ago and it’s been such a challenging journey. There’s been many times where I thought we would not be able to survive as an indie niche brand trying to do something very differently – but with the incredible support of our community and our amazing team, we’ve been able to create something really special and it’s such an honor to be nominated.

MCM

Jean Madar, CEO of Interparfums, INC.

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

Capturing the essence of the brand’s DNA of travel, MCM Eau de Parfum is a transcending journey. Fragrance deconstructed, this spirited floral woody aroma remixes classic perfumery with cutting edge technology resulting in a disruptive scent designed for the global nomad generation. Drawing inspiration from MCM’s cult-classic Stark backpack, the one-of-a-kind bottle design represents an unmistakable synergy between fashion and fragrance.

How does the fragrance reflect what the consumer is looking for from the brand?

MCM is synonymous with freedom of movement, hence we wanted to conceptualize our DNA of mobility through a fragrance that captures the essence of discovery–from sentiment to scent. Our consumer is not confined by rules, gender, boundaries, or location–travel is their creative expression. The MCM fragrance joins them on their voyage of exploration and discovery across real and virtual worlds.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

We are truly honored by the outpouring of consumer love for the brand. We believe in every person’s right to express themselves. We find ourselves constantly inspired by this creative and curious new generation of universal citizens, all of whom represent a perpetually mobile tribe of style-setters who freely write their own stories without rules or boundaries.

Women’s Popular

Billie Eilish, Eilish

Lori Singer, President Parlux

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

The fragrance is purely a creation of Billie’s own necessity because she, in her own words in an Allure feature, “desperately wanted to wear something that didn’t exist… yet.”  The captivating Amber Gourmand scent, featuring notes of sugared petals, soft spices and vanilla is one that the star had been chasing for years and years, until finally, she created it. 

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

Billie wanted her fragrance to be personal, relatable and intimate. She says, “I just want everybody to be able to see themselves in this bottle and see whoever they wanted to see in the bottle.” “It’s really about embracing yourself, being confident, and loving how you look and the way you feel.” 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

Billie was quoted in Vogue saying “Perfumes have been one of my greatest joys in life, and I’ve always wanted to make one.” So Eilish being a Finalist for the Consumer Choice category has made the star “Happier Than Ever.”

Dolly Parton, Scent from Above

Dolly Parton

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance? 

I have been dreaming of my own fragrance for years and I feel like it really was “Scent From Above.” It’s bright and irresistible like butterflies in a garden. It has top notes of mandarin, blackcurrant, crisp pear and fresh peony, heart notes of jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and vanilla, and base notes of sandalwood, fir, musk, tonka bean, amber and patchouli. Overall it’s really just floral, fruity, casual and feminine. 

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers? 

The first part that was important to me was that I personally loved it. I have been experimenting with fragrances all my life, mixing and matching scents and oils, flowers and soaps; Anything that I thought smelled pretty, I wanted to try. As an adult, I’ve been blending my own scents together to come up with my personal signature scent. I only hoped that it would strike a chord with other people, and it looks like it has. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

What an honor! I am so proud that we were considered at all, let alone becoming a finalist. All my life I have loved playing in beauty products. Lotions, makeup and of course perfume. Being a finalist in this category means the world to me because it’s for the fans, and I just love that! 

Guess, Bella Vita

Jean Madar, CEO of Interparfums, INC.

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

GUESS is known for its iconic advertising imagery featuring women who embrace all facets of life and the power of their femininity.  This fragrance was inspired by the confidence of the Guess women who celebrate and enjoy life, who create their unique story, their beautiful life, their own “Bella Vita”! 

Designed to celebrate the allure in the personality of the GUESS women, Bella Vita is a floral amber fragrance that opens with bright sparkling top notes, then transitions to a hypnotic luscious heart, and finally leaves a sensual radiant trail. 

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

Fragrance has the power to create an emotional connection.  We wanted to create a scent that would immediately transport us to the glamorous iconic world of GUESS. The GUESS Bella Vita fragrance unmistakably conveys these elements with an irresistible twist, so the consumer has an instant connection to the brand they know and love. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

GUESS is thrilled that Bella Vita is a finalist for the Consumer Choice category! Bella Vita is the first feminine blockbuster fragrance created by Interparfums for the GUESS brand. We are truly honored to receive recognition for bringing the passionate, zesty spirit of Bella Vita to life and our work in elevating GUESS in the world of fragrance. It is exciting for us to see how much the consumer continues to embrace the iconic glamour status of the brand. 

Philosophy, Amazing Grace Jasmine

Taous Bellahsene, philosophy Global Marketing Senior Director

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

With Amazing Grace Jasmine eau de Toilette, we wanted to create a fresh, luminous and comforting twist on our iconic favorite — Amazing Grace eau de Toilette. The team was inspired by the delicate and sensuous quality of the jasmine flower, translating it into a modern and alluring fragrance story and bright, eye-catching packaging.

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

The most important element was to keep the connection between the Amazing Grace eau de Toilette and the new twist — which is the softness of the fragrance and the easy to wear aspect — while modernizing the Amazing Grace story with a distinct emotional facet.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?

It’s a true honor for Amazing Grace Jasmine eau de Toilette to be included in the finalists — a testament to how the ‘whisper-soft’ quality and timeless sillage of Amazing Grace resonate with consumers around the world.

Victoria’s Secret Tease Crème Cloud

Kristen Lagoa, Vice President of Merchandising, Beauty and Accessories 

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

When developing Tease Crème Cloud we were looking to expand upon the gourmand positioning of our Tease fragrance. We were looking for a fragrance that still exuded Tease’s playful positioning but in a softer, dreamier way. When we first smelled Tease Crème Cloud we were instantly attracted to its light-as-air sweetness which is led by the whipped vanilla meringue. It then opens up to a luminous floral heart of exotic santal flower—which gives it this addictive hook. At the base is a bare musk accord that softly floats on skin. The scent inspired everything: the name, the design, the marketing campaign. When you experience it you feel like you are floating on a delicious cloud.

What are the most important elements in making a fragrance that strikes a chord with so many consumers?

A fragrance must be emotional, it has to take you somewhere. That doesn’t necessarily mean a physical place, but can be a mindset. Customers connect with fragrances that fit their various moods and personalities. That emotion, then, must come through as a well told story across every aspect of the fragrance. Secondly, it must be memorable. There are so many fragrances out there. We are always looking for that note or combination of notes that pull you in so you always go back for more. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

Our customer is at the heart of everything we do. For our product to have made enough of an impact for them to take time out of their day to recognize us…there is no greater honor.   

Men’s

Burberry, Hero

Aurélien Guichard, Perfumer

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

Burberry Hero features a new masculine spirit exploring the house codes of duality and the power of the animal kingdom. A man in search of transformation and metamorphosis as new modern heroism.

On a personal level, in the middle of my property in the south of France (where I grow rose centifolia), 3 majestic cedar trees dominate the land and overlook the fields of roses. They must be around 50 meters high now. They are strong, they live through a generation of people and they are of extreme beauty. Last year, one cedar got struck by lightning… a year later, the magic scent of the wood remains in the air and the tree still stands. This fragrance is a tribute to this tree.

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

The success of a fragrance, I believe, comes in how close the final version is to the initial concept, and how well it pairs with the campaign, the bottle, and the name. The talent involved will all contribute to the success. The fragrance is one element and a very important one, but success is found in the strong link to the brand heritage and the vision of the designer. 

Stetson, Spirit

Emmanuelle Bonte, Chief Marketing Officer

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

Stetson Spirit was inspired by the 40 year relationship of the Stetson Original with its customers. As an iconic American brand, Stetson has always stood for the pioneering, authentic, adaptable, and diverse core of the American spirit and Stetson Spirit continues to build upon that. Stetson Spirit captures the energy of younger consumers into a scent that’s fresh, vibrant, and rooted in adventure. 

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

It’s not often that we see a bold, updated idea of a brand that is iconic and embodies the spirit of Americana. With the Stetson Spirit, we embrace a new generation of adventure. from ranchers and cowboys to musicians and mavericks. Stetson Spirit is made for each individual style whether they adventure outdoors or around the city. 

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

We see the launch of Stetson Spirit as a reflection of our evolving times, a fragrance that captures the desire for adventure, freedom, and individuality. We are honored to be recognized for our bold reimagination to reflect our evolving times. 

Tumi, Continuum [12:00 GMT]

Alex Shalbaf, President and CEO

 What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

As the third fragrance introduction from TUMI fragrances, Continuum [12:00 GMT] TUMI Eau de Parfum was created as a celebration of adventure in achievements, the perfect companion on his journey, whatever it may be.

The Perfumer, Catherine Selig, described her inspiration as “Crafted around the idea of fusing an unforgettable, earthy ingredient such as tobacco leaf into a drydown of precious ingredients to reinvent the classic oriental structure. A juxtaposition of ingredients that work harmoniously together to create a raw sophistication, an olfactive duality that is hard to resist.”

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

A fragrance that instantly connects with the consumer is a fragrance that stands out in the men’s category. Not only does the fragrance need to be aesthetically pleasing to the male or female consumer, it must also capture their senses. Additionally, the accessibility of the fragrance is very important in today’s market. Continuum [12:00 GMT] TUMI Eau de Parfum definitely represents a fragrance that stands out in the men’s category.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category? 

It is truly an honor to be recognized by the Fragrance Foundation, especially to be nominated for an award that will be voted on by consumers. It is also validation of the hard work by the many people that brought Continuum [12:00 GMT] Eau de Parfum to the market.  

VS Him Deepwater

Kristen Lagoa, Vice President of Merchandising, Beauty and Accessories

What was the inspiration behind this fragrance?

While many customers love our Men’s Fragrance VS Him Platinum we were noticing more and more customers coming in asking for a fresh olfactive as an alternative to the woody scent of Platinum. The Team worked on this fragrance that opens with bright notes of Frozen Bergamot mixed with aromatic fresh water and Blue Sage. All wrapped in a deep, comforting layer of woody Cedar Leaf. 

What makes a fragrance stand out in the men’s category?

Just like a women’s fragrance, a men’s fragrance has to transport you, it has to convey a story. I think VS Him Deepwater is a very visual fragrance. When I smell it, I can picture myself floating in the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean.

What does it mean for this fragrance to be included in the Finalists for the Consumer Choice category?  

Our customer is at the heart of everything we do. For our product to have made enough of an impact for them to take time out of their day to recognize us…there is no greater honor. 

What constitutes a Perfume Extraordinaire? Many things: Unique or especially tantalizing ingredients, an unusual composition, a stop-you-in-your-tracks olfactive impact, powerful storytelling. But perhaps more than anything else it comes down to a certain verve on behalf of the perfumer—a facility with raw materials and a willingness to take risks. Here, the noses behind the 2022 TFF Perfume Extraordinaire nominees share their inspirations and give us a peek into their creative processes.   

 

D.S. & Durga St. Vetyver, David Seth Moltz

What was your inspiration for St. Vetyver?

Whenever I travel to the Caribbean, I look for local made cologne. You often find them wrapped in jute sitting in baskets on the floor of shops. They smell old-fashioned and recall sailors of the high seas with aromas of bay rhum and citrus. ST. VETYVER places one of the most beautiful extracts of the region (Top Fraction Haitian Vetyver) into a spicy sailor cologne reimagined for modern tastes. 

What did you want the experience of wearing this scent to be like?

I think ST. VETYVER gives one the chance to armchair travel to Caribbean climes with carefree airs by the sea. It smells fancy and of old world sophistication, sort of like aromatic resort wear.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

It is a great honor to be considered for this based upon the juice alone! It is perhaps the “purest” award for a perfumer. Good luck to everyone!

Kilian L’Heure Vert, Mathieu Nardin

What was your starting point for L’Heure Verte?

The creative idea behind L’Heure Verte came to life during a scented session with Kilian. Kilian and I were smelling and sharing about MANE’s raw materials when we came across Absinth. Absinth, a bold, exquisite and powerful ingredient with a storytelling that perfectly fitted with the spirit of Kilian’s Liquors collection. Indeed, a few decades back, Absinth was known to be the signature drink of the traditional “Happy Hour” and served with a touch of sugar. From this intoxicating note, we chose a triptych of Violet leaves absolute, Patchouli Gayo Pure Jungle Essence™ and Licorice absolute to enrich and contrast Absinth, the star ingredient of this new opus.

How do the notes that you used conjure the feeling or atmosphere you wanted the perfume to have?

Absinth is a challenging raw material to craft with. Its rich aromatic scent is difficult to tame and control. Therefore, I chose to embrace it with Patchouli Gayo Pure Jungle Essence™ to enrich the intoxicating facet of Absinth with a darker sensuality. Then a duo Violet Leaves and Licorice, to enhance the intoxicating aromatic and herbaceous notes. A perfume with an addictive and unforgettable sillage.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

It is a recognition to be nominated and selected among the finalists by experts with whom I share a passion for fragrances. It was a challenging creation, but thanks to Kilian’s strong beliefs and vision, the project gorgeously came to be.

LilaNur Parfums Davana Cèdre, Honorine Blanc

What was the inspiration behind Davana Cèdre?

With Davana Cèdre, I wanted to get out of my comfort zone and play with cedarwood and beautiful Indian ingredients in a new way. The idea behind this fragrance is to magnify all the facets of cedarwood, even its imperfections. This is why I combined it with naturals, such as herbaceous davana, and an earthy, spicy angelique. Unique Firmenich musks also helped to enhance the warm sensuality of the cedarwood on the skin.

How did you approach working with the unique ingredients to create a fragrance that honors India?

The two main pillars of this fragrance are davana and cedarwood. On one hand, the cedarwood brings the strength, the intensity of life in India and its wild and vibrant nature – a strong energy I felt when I was there. The davana, on the other hand, brings the sacred spirituality. The elevated spirituality that I experienced while meditating in temples is an intense emotion that I can’t forget. Thanks to Lilanur, I was able to capture and bring back all these memories in Davana Cèdre.

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

It’s an honor to be nominated in this unique category. It highlights the choice of ingredients, the structure of the fragrance and the creativity of the perfumer. It’s all about the métier.

Maison Margiela Replica Matcha Meditation, Maurice Roucel & Alexandra Carlin

What was the initial inspiration behind this fragrance?

Alexandra: I wanted to “replicate” the state of complete harmony of the body, mind and soul you reach after meditation or a yoga session. To me it’s a moment of bliss and serenity which I like to extend by drinking matcha tea. I feel like really connecting to nature. Focusing on the now, being in the moment, feeling the flow! At this moment my senses are awake and I’m in the best state of mind for creation. Matcha is also called the “Meditation” tea.

Maurice: A while ago in Tokyo on a fast-paced journey. I remember this timeless moment : a tea ceremony.  It was a very codified traditional ritual, a privileged moment that allowed me to re-focus. Simplicity, purity and peace of mind. Just like yoga, and creating a perfume, preparing matcha tea requires precise gestures, patience and concentration.

What was the creation process like?

Alexandra: Making a perfume is telling a story and giving emotion. In this quest, ingredients are “perfumers’ words”. We associate each one to a color, a sensation, a place, a noise, anything which will help us to memorize them and use them in perfumes. Matcha tea has a green seaweed bitterness and a milky sweetness. It was important to have this contrast in Matcha Meditation and it took several months to find the good balance. The second pillar is orange blossom, whose smell and taste are linked to bliss and childhood in many cultures. 

Maurice: We wanted to explore the facets of Matcha tea and create a new addictive freshness built on citrus, tea notes and comfortable warm notes of matcha using sandalwood, benzoin and white chocolate. I worked on many tea notes in my career but Matcha tea is so intriguing and unusual in Perfumery that I said “yes !” to Alexandra when she asked me to work with her. 

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

Alexandra: It means a lot to me, first of all that we managed to bring our imagination to life and that our perfume touched people. This is why we create perfumes, to provide happiness and emotion. Then, that we were right to be bold, trying a completely different way to create a tea note in perfumes. So happy to be nominated with the one who was my mentor in Symrise and gave me so much.

Tom Ford Ebene Fume, Rodrigo Flores-Roux

What was the starting point for Ébène Fumé?

The original inspiration comes from Tom Ford himself. He loves rich woody characters and is always interested in exploring new dimensions of that olfactive universe. He then discovered Palo Santo (which literally translates to “holy wood” or “saintly wood”) which is the resinous wood of an aromatic tree endemic to the Americas. Its wood and resin emit a powerful incense like scent, and are particularly redolent while being burnt. Mr Ford wanted to evoke a meditative, introspective feeling through a sensual and thought provoking scent, rich in new woody nuances. At that time, I had been working on a rich and powerful woody harmony and it was only natural to graft a rich Palo Santo accord to it, perfected through burning the wood and also using Givaudan’s ScentTrek™ technology. This resulted in a mysterious, perfumed talisman that could connect Earth to Heaven…and beyond.

What do you believe makes this fragrance so special?

I love to think that while Ébène Fumé is nature at its most mysterious and enigmatic, it becomes extremely amplified through the high tech woody ambery ingredients. This innovative encounter ushers both a rich natural feeling and a highly abstract fragrant message. Watching the volutes of thick, fragrant Palo Santo smoke, the image of a black, highly polished object came to mind, intriguingly holy. The scent vocabulary was a parade of Palo Santo wood accord, African Ebony Wood, black pepper, coniferous notes and rose. Ébène Fumé is a unique combination of dark elements that delivers a flash of bright light, a perfume harmony that transcends with spirituality and meditative calm.  

What does it mean to you to be nominated for Perfume Extraordinaire?

I couldn’t feel more honored and privileged to be one of the nominees for this prestigious award. I am very proud and humbled to receive this acknowledgement from my peers and from notable members of the perfume industry of today, so all my gratitude goes to them for it. Additionally, I am celebrating my 30th year working as a perfumer, so being part of this list of candidates feels particularly special. Again, thank you!

We are in the final countdown to June 9th for the 2022 TFF Awards, where we will gather in person for the first time in 3 years for this signature event. Now is the perfect opportunity to celebrate TFFAwards Finalists and share the storytelling behind 5 TFF Award categories. While several awards categories are voted on by TFF members to determine the ultimate winners, these Finalists ultimate winners are determined otherwise. 

In our Accords sections’ “Spotlight” + “Scents and Sensibility”, we feature those Finalists in the 4 Consumer Choice categories where consumers submit ballots to determine the ultimate winner. We asked the creators or brand leaders of those who achieved Finalist status to share their inspiration and their perspective on the significance of being a Finalist. Unfortunately, a few Finalists were not able to provide their responses in time for publication.

Accords’ “What the Nose Knows”  features the Perfumers who created the Finalists for Perfume Extraordinaire, the exceptional award based only on the fragrance itself. This is the only award category eligible for nominations by fragrance houses or brands with in-house perfumers. It is judged confidentially and anonymously by perfumers who were not creators of nominations this year. The expert judges complete a confidential ballot focused only on the fragrance itself with a variety of evaluations, and each of the fragrances are submitted in a standard “agnostic” bottle, so that there is no identity.

Every year I advocate celebrating all the Finalists, not just the winners.

This year, more than ever, I must emphasize that reaching Finalist status

which was achieved by indies, mid sized brands and mega-sized brands was a major competition with many in a close race to the final count. 

While all winners for each category will be announced live at the TFF Awards June 9th, let’s celebrate all the Finalists and all who attend and be grateful for this major reunion of the community!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy

@fragrancefoundation

Sustainability can have different meanings for different brands, but all can agree one thing: its importance. From recyclable packaging components to the way that ingredients are sourced and processed, the fragrance industry is stepping up to ensure that the impact it makes on the planet is minimal and responsible. Consumers, too, are driving this change, with increasing expectations regarding brands’ transparency regarding environmentally friendly practices. For Earth Month, ACCORDS tapped four brands with strong sustainability messages—Ralph Lauren Polo Earth, Costa Brazil, Amen Candles & House of Bō—to talk about what they are doing to protect the planet, and what we can look forward to in the future from the fragrance industry as a whole.

Alex Choueiri, Ralph Lauren, L’Oréal

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

Sustainability has become an essential part of what all industries need to focus on. Our communities, our employees and our customers are expecting that from us. For the fragrance industry to continue to thrive, we have to revisit everything we do and try to improve. 

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken?

With the launch of Polo Earth we tried to do a deep dive on every aspect of our marketing mix and tried to push the boundaries to make our product as consciously designed as we can. We learned in that process and started implementing some of the learning (refillability, lighter glass weight, sustainably sourced verified ingredients, post consumer recycled carton and glass) to other products in our range.         

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

We hope we will continue the journey. We dream of seeing plastic free pumps. Our wooden cap will no longer have a plastic insert from next year. We are also working with all fragrance houses to increase the number of certified sustainable ingredients and fair trade certifications. Much more needs doing but it is an exciting journey.

Francisco Costa, Costa Brazil, Amyris

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

Sustainability needs to be important for all brands right now. For me, and Costa Brazil, it marks the beginning of our story. When I first went into the Amazon and learned more about the benefits of Brazilian ingredients, and self-care rituals from the Yawanawas, I directly sourced everything from them. It was as clear and simple as I’d hoped it could be. Of course, as we grew, the challenge became how to scale and continue to be sustainable. Fortunately, that’s when I met Amyris, leaders in biotechnology and now our parent company. They have helped us choose an even more sustainable path, from packaging to procurement to providing products like Aroma with proprietary ingredients such as Clean Ethanol, which is a non-toxic alternative to other ethanol alcohols because it’s derived from Bonsucro-certified sugarcane, not petrol, it’s non-GMO and, to top it off, it’s upcycled. It’s better for the environment, and you, without sacrificing efficacy. Today, we’re more sustainable than I could have ever imagined.

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken?

Sustainability is part of the everyday for us. We are always talking about ways to improve, across all tentpoles: animal, environmental and human welfare. We are sustainably sourced, environmentally responsible, cruelty free, and we truly care about our partners on the ground in the Amazon. That said, every time I go back into the rainforest, and witness just how hard and long a sourcing trip for a single ingredient like Breu is, I realize how unsustainable it is for those communities. 

 Currently, we’re in the process of formalizing an agreement that supports these communities through commitments to buy directly from them, and at a fair price, an acknowledgment of their hard work and culture, while also developing sustainable alternative ingredients in the Amyris lab. This way, we can harvest at the amount that will help the forest and its people thrive, but also allow us to scale and push the conversation around clean science.

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

Safer ingredients. More transparency. Cleaner science. Ongoing respect for nature. There is so much potential when it comes to fragrance. In the office, we have been speaking a lot about the direct line scent has into our immune systems. I want to change the purpose of fragrance. They shouldn’t mask who you are or be worn for others; they should be worn for you, to make you feel better, and help you smell like the best version of yourself. And they should be free of toxins and full of benefits like phytoncides, which are chemicals emitted from trees that have a proven physiological effect on our parasympathetic nervous systems. Aroma evokes such chemicals. How incredible is that? The future of clean beauty and particularly fragrance is incredibly bright.

Rodrigo Garcia, AMEN Candles

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

The oceans are speaking, the earth and climate are calling us to immediate action. Sustainability is not enough and it’s time for Regeneration. Fragrance brands have been using plastics and contributing to plastic contamination to the ocean for decades and this has to stop. We know it is hard, we don’t claim to be perfect, and we don’t expect to fix issues overnight, but what is important is to start incorporating this in all new products and make incremental changes. The philosophy should be  “As Sustainable As Possible As Soon As Possible”. 

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken?

AMEN started because I was having headaches from paraffin candles, and after searching for many years I partnered with an artisanal candle maker in Grasse to create paraffin-free sustainable candles using vegetal wax. It resulted in a unique combination of sustainability principles with French savoir-faire and high-end design. So since inception we started free of oil-derivative paraffin, and then while defining packaging we refused to use packaging that takes 500 years to decompose for a candle that only burns for 50 hours, and decided to ‘grow’ mushrooms carbon negative packaging for our candles.

AMEN is not about measures that we took to be sustainable, but about our way of thinking to be sustainable from the beginning, is in our DNA, and this is actually how sustainability is taught at universities, is not one measure, but a way of thinking and considering the sustainability aspect of every decision.

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

There will be two main changes: in the short term a plastic ban on packaging and in the long term a shift to more natural, conscious ingredients.

Soon, it will become unthinkable for a brand to use single-use plastic. Our mushrooms carbon negative packaging is our manifesto. It costs 10 times more than a plastic styrofoam, and as a young brand it was a tough decision to reduce our margins, but we believe that we have to lead by example and support new biodegradable alternatives whenever possible so other brands and designers see that it is possible. Clients support this initiative, and department stores are incredibly supportive, with dedicated areas like Conscious Curation at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The more brands use biodegradable alternatives, the prices will become more affordable. That is the only way to live in a world without plastics. Recycling is good for the mind to feel less guilty, but it is not good for our oceans.

I am optimistic that we can change this in the right direction. We are in a moment of awakening and shifting towards a more natural, conscious and regenerative period at all levels.

Bernardo Möller, House of Bō 

Why is sustainability so important for fragrance brands right now?

As we move into the future, and society has more access to information, we have become more aware of the issues that affect our planet. I think people are realizing that Earth is rare and precious and we must protect it. Sustainability has not only become a growing trend in fragrance production but in everything we do and consume. Thus, it is important to lead by example by choosing materials and manufacturers that are aligned with this message of sustainability to create an environment where conscious purchases become a priority for consumers. We call it Conscious Luxury, the responsible production of quality goods.  

What are some of the sustainable measures that your brand has taken? 

Our packaging is made from FSC certified paper, our caps are made from reclaimed travertine marble stone, and our glass bottles are manufactured from recyclable glass in a facility that uses sustainable energy. We are also currently developing a refilling program. We believe all these measures contribute to our goal of creating quality goods that minimizes our impact on the environment.

What do you hope to see regarding the future of sustainability and fragrance?

We hope there continues to be a growing commitment within the fragrance industry to use sustainable and responsibly sourced and manufactured  ingredients. Ultimately I believe people will become more aware we are a product of this Earth, which is a system of ecosystems that are all connected. It’s in our best interest to make sure we focus more on cohabiting instead of inhabiting irresponsibly. To achieve this change we must educate and guide the consumer in the right direction by creating trends which ultimately lead to a greater impact. We have a duty to protect our environment which is ultimately the source of inspiration for everything we do.

The Finalists for TFF’s 2022 Indie Fragrance of the Year all bring something fresh and intriguing to the table. Arquiste’s Peau recreates the scent of skin; The Maker’s Stag is inspired by the modern nomad; Shalini Parfum’s Fleur Japonaise conjures the peacefulness of Sakura season in Japan; Sous le Manteau’s Odisiaque No. 6 was inspired by an 18^th century aphrodisiac recipe; and Veronique Gabai’s Le Point G celebrates female sexuality. Following this month’s TFF Awards Finalists luncheon, we asked each brand’s founders—Olivia Bransbourg, Veronique Gabai, Lev Glazman, Carlos Huber and Shalini Kumar—to share the inspirations behind these outstanding fragrances with ACCORDS.

Olivia Bransbourg

Sous le Manteau, “Odisiaque n°6”

Nathalie Feisthauer, LabScent – Perfumer

What is the inspiration behind Sous le Manteau?

It was on the rediscovery of apothecary formulas forgotten in a 19th century pharmaceutical book, in particular love potions, that I designed Sous Le Manteau: A house of confidential, intimate perfumes, which could only exist for oneself. Inspired by the bewitching power of these ancient potions, I entrusted the perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer with the mission of extracting from these aphrodisiac charms what makes their essence. A bewitchment, loving and timeless. The result is a collection of unisex fragrances decorated with the Best Newcomer Award 2020 awarded by the Fragrance Foundation UK. Poudre impériale, Fontaine Royale, Cuir d’Orient, Essence du Sérail, Vapeurs Diablotines, and Odisiaque n°6: six intriguing or addictive proposals, designed in Grasse with the finest raw materials, an 18% concentration and 100% organic alcohol. Six expressions of yesterday’s love transfigured by the olfactory language of today.

What is the story behind Odisiaque No. 6?

Odisiaque n°6 was designed to evoke the languorous state of a world that is slowly waking up. “I taste the odisiaque hour of your return.” Odisiaque n°6  draws its inspiration from an aphrodisiac formula written in the 18th century by Jean-Claude-Adrien Helvetius, great physician to Louis XV and Marie Leczynska and member of the Royal Academy of Sciences. After an aromatic and zesty accord of Bergamot and an extremely rare essence of Cascarilla specially made available for this formula, Odisiaque n°6 reveals all the warmth of a feasting heart of wild and dry grass. A short formula, whose transparency serves to sublimate the addictive, suave and carnal fragrance of the absolutes of Mate, Liatrix, Tobacco and Tonka Bean. A perfume “made to go and listen to the sea,” according to the playwright Florient Azoulay, to whom Odisiaque n°6 immediately inspired the breath of an oceanic poetry.

Veronique Gabai

Veronique Gabai, Le Point G

Frank Voelkl, Firmenich – Perfumer

What prompted you to create Veronique Gabai fragrances?

Scent is my passion and has always been my creative expression. After years creating perfumes for remarkable brands, I decided to launch my own, with the desire to bring “sunshine for the senses and the soul”. It is all about light and sensuality.

Inspired by the Cote d’Azur where I was born, my brand is there to offer a sensorial escape to the Mediterranean and a connection to Nature through our ethically sourced raw materials and an effort towards sustainability. 

Our sillages are luminous, our rendition on skin extremely sensual. 

I also wanted people to express their personality through scent, so we made this idea part of the line and the experience. Our perfumes can be layered with our Eau du Jour or Eau de la Nuit, also available in Body lotions,  to enhance either the luminosity or the sensuality, and to create a unique signature. We also made sure to offer a personality test based on the correspondence of the senses to help find the perfect one!

And then again, our clients can wear their perfume the way they want, all from re-usable beautiful objects, from our gorgeous refillable bottle, to our on the go travel case or our line of jewelry pieces containing a mini spray. Fun, gorgeous and lasting a very long time….

What was the inspiration behind Le Point G?

I am inspired by women, their generosity, their strength, their subtlety, their stories. I wanted to pay homage to their bodies, their sensuality, their pleasure and do so through the eyes of another woman, with affection, respect and a bit of humor. 

So came le Point G (or the G spot) a perfume built like a pulse, a vibration and a crescendo, from the kiss of rose and iris, the caress of musks, the soft bite of leather, the depth of woods and to the pure pleasure of vanilla. A climactic perfume in other words, one everyone would want to look for, and hopefully find! 

Frank Voelkl of Firmenich was my partner in creating this perfume, a delicate balance of softness and power, and Jennifer Massaux put it all in images, with tenderness and passion. 

Demanding skin chemistry, this perfume is quite unique, probably like our relationship with pleasure and intimacy. You have to try it for yourself!

Lev Glazman

The Maker “Stag Eau de Parfum”

Jerome Epinette, Robertet – Perfumer

What is the story behind The Maker?

Alina and I always sought to bring unique, meaningful — and simply beautiful — experiences to life and this philosophy led us to open the doors to The Maker. 

What began as a bespoke hotel redefining the bohemian travel experience in Hudson, NY, has expanded into a multi-faceted lifestyle brand with a fragrance collection inspired by inhibitions melting away— bottling hotel travel fantasies we’ve lived or long to. 

As beauty veterans who transcended to hospitality, returning to fragrance, a huge passion of mine, has allowed me to inspire guests through sensual spaces and now provocative scents.

What inspired Stag?

Stag is inspired by the modern nomad. Somebody who leaves a mark wherever they roam. Cool and charismatic, yet diabolically independent, their touch is fleeting but their impression is everlasting.

I wanted the fragrance to smell like a rich, clean blend of seductive woods, a scent that smells like innate confidence.

Carlos Huber

Arquiste Parfumeur “Peau”

Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Givaudan – Perfumer

What was the inspiration behind Arquiste as a brand?

ARQUISTE has always been about transporting you to another place in time. 

My career started in architecture and historic preservation, so when I started learning about perfume under the mentorship of Rodrigo Flores-Roux I was fascinated by the timelessness of scent: you can smell an actual eau de cologne formula created in the 17^th century and if you pay attention, it can transport you back to that world: the perfumer’s vision, the style and sense of beauty of the era and the raw materials available. 

So with that in mind, before I start a development on a fragrance, I research a fragrant setting as one would an architectural or archeological site. I like to travel and identify diverse stories from around the world that connect people and cultures. I then identify and categorize the details behind these sites into foundational, structural and ornamental notes, which in turn are translated into base, heart and top notes. 

Working with experienced and inspired perfumers like Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Yann Vasnier and Calice Becker, and using high quality, sustainable and responsibly-sourced materials completes the architectural vision of form, function and material quality. 

What was the inspiration for Peau?

Our goal with Peau was to recreate, as vividly as possible, the scent of skin: particularly, the idealized scent of a lover, the memory of their scent. No story felt more evocative than Roman Emperor Hadrian and Antinoös, his lost lover. Hadrian commissioned thousands of sculptures of Antinoös all over the Roman Empire, so that through the idealized representation of his body, his memory would be preserved forever. 

Likewise, this fragrance seeks to bottle (and preserve) the idealized scent of the human body. There’s surprising botanical ingredients like white pepper that helped us evoke that slightly spicy, salty and soft musk in skin. My favorite thing about it is that it’s ever present and familiar, while at the same time being hard to describe. Working on this with Rodrigo Flores-Roux was cathartic, especially during a year of lockdowns like that of 2020. We wanted to express longing, intimacy and closeness. To identify that special scent behind the nape of a lover’s neck that tells you you’re home. 

Shalini Kumar

Shalini Parfum “Fleur Japonaise”

Maurice Roucel, Symrise – Perfumer

What inspired you to create Shalini Parfum?  

My journey from Haute Couture to Haute Parfum was destined to happen. I had not envisioned creating a Perfume House.  It all started when I met Maurice Roucel, the renowned Master Perfumer. A friend introduced me to him when he had just moved to New York City from Paris. 

At the time, I was still creating Haute Couture for my own Fashion House, and Maurice visited my atelier. He immediately connected to the timeless elegance of my designs, and a friendship between us was born. As this friendship flourished, we decided to create together a fragrance that would echo the standards of Haute Couture – a composition of the purest, supreme-quality raw materials, executed with Maurice’s extraordinary talent and artistic sensibility.  

Our first perfume was my namesake, SHALINI, which we created on a cold, November afternoon in New York. It was an olfactive painting of my soul – inspired by childhood memories of inhaling the nocturnal beauty of tuberoses in my garden. I desired to present SHALINI in a Lalique crystal flacon that would reflect its exquisite beauty. We introduced the perfume to Bergdorf Goodman with great success, and we were asked to launch Shalini Parfum there exclusively.

What inspired Fleur Japonais?

The series of seven perfumes that I created with Maurice Roucel is inspired by the changing moods and passions of the soul.  Each of our perfumes reflects a stage in the journey of life. Nirvana is life’s final stage, during which the soul comes to the understanding of self, purpose and destiny. A sense of peacefulness prevails in that understanding. It is the transcendent beauty of life that I desired to capture in FLEUR JAPONAIS. 

In Japan, the Sakura and the Samurai are deeply connected, due to the fleeting nature of their lives. FLEUR JAPONAIS is the synergy between the softest of flowers, and the strongest of Japanese men. Naturally, the perfume is an ode to the revered Japanese cherry blossoms. The “Sakura season” is a time of renewal, as well as of celebration of life, as the pink flowers embrace the temples of Kyoto. The delicate flowers are part of the Buddhist themes of mindfulness, and of living in the present.  Maurice brilliantly added the purest frankincense to the composition, thus radiating serene strength and meditative energy.

I see FLEUR JAPONAIS as a timeless metaphor for human existence; it is soft but also tenacious, sensual in all its spirituality, and absolutely heavenly. 

We would like to express our gratitude to the judging panel of the prestigious Fragrance Foundation Awards for recognizing this perfume as one of the five 2022 Finalists in the “Indie Fragrance of the Year” category. We are extremely proud and overjoyed.

Sudden smell and taste loss has become a well-known symptom of COVID-19. However, some people have also woken up to discover that their usual beloved coffee odor has been distorted and now smells like garbage or rotting meat, a condition known as parosmia. Others smell cigarette smoke, for example, when no odor source is present, a condition called phantosmia.

Now, investigators at the Monell Chemical Senses Center, and colleagues at AbScent, the University of Reading, and Technische Universität Dresden, have teased out the differences between these two conditions and described them in the peer-reviewed journal Chemical Senses. Knowing the distinct patterns of demographics, medical history, and quality-of-life issues associated with each condition may provide insight into the organization and function of the olfactory system, as well as help physicians better treat their patients. AbScent is a non-profit charity in the UK, founded by Chrissi Kelly, dedicated to raising awareness and understanding of smell disorders.

“It’s clear from our results that these distortions in smell are distinct and common among those with smell impairment,” said lead author Robert Pellegrino, PhD, a Monell postdoctoral fellow. “Identifying patterns in these conditions is a first step to discovering their underlying biological cause.

“We hope this work will attract more research on the reason for these conditions, followed by intervention to help these patients.” For example, the team discovered that parosmia tends to occur three to six months after smell loss, so while this smell distortion has a huge effect on quality of life, it typically resolves faster than phantosmia or smell loss. “And that’s extremely useful for some patients to know,” he added. Despite the obvious differences between parosmia and phantosmia, most studies do not separate them in their analyses and have not gathered quantitative data, instead relying on narratives of anecdotal patient experiences.

The team suspected there might be important lessons to learn by studying what is unique about each condition. They designed a questionnaire to better understand nuances of these disorders of smell to produce quantitative data to describe each state, allowing them to compare and make conclusions about the differences between the conditions. From this, they created a severity metric for research and clinical use, based on the combined frequency and duration of distortion episodes.

“There are major differences in patients’ experiences with these distortions, with some more severe than others and the capacity to cause significant impact on their quality of life. This work could not have been done in the first place if it was not patient-driven,” said Pellegrino. “For instance, these patients frequently report that they are continually reminded of their disorder, which may lead to such mental health conditions as depression. This study arose out of conversations with and comments from people experiencing these difficult disorders.”

The team surveyed over 2,100 people with at least one olfactory disorder acquired during their lifetime. They found that odor distortions were common at 46 percent, with respondents reporting either parosmia at 19 percent, phantosmia at 11 percent, or both at 16 percent. They used an online questionnaire distributed globally in English, with the United Kingdom and the United States representing the largest proportion of respondents. Primary areas of recruitment were the website of the patient advocacy group AbScent and social media posts to AbScent’s Facebook and Twitter accounts. Survey data were collected between May 2019 and October 2020.

The distinctions between the disorders include:

Age and Gender: Parosmia patients were more likely to be female and younger than individuals who were phantosmic or had full (anosmic)/partial smell loss (hyposmic). In contrast, phantosmia was more prevalent in 41–50 years olds, and anosmia or hyposmia was more prominent in older individuals. There were no differences in gender between phantosmic vs. anosmic or hyposmic sufferers.

Cause: Viral infection led to parosmia more often than other smell disorders, while traumatic impact to the head led to phantosmia more often than other disorders.

Improvement Timeline: Parosmic individuals were more likely to say their condition improved over time and recovery coincides with the timeline of physiological recovery. On the other hand, phantosmia was more stable, with no change in improvement across time.

Triggers: Most parosmic patients cited specific distorted sources of smell, while only a few phantosmic individuals could identify a source of their smell distortions. When describing the triggers of distorted smelling episodes, parosmic individuals cited odors, such as roasted coffee or garlic. In contrast, phantosmic sufferers noted locations, time, specific sensory input, stress, or memories.

Word cloud of nouns used to describe triggers of parosmia, with size representing word frequency across 375 parosmics.

The neurological mechanisms of parosmia and phantosmia are still debated among scientists. The Monell team’s work supports a parosmia hypothesis that a sensory neuron (located in the nose) tuned to one odor mistakenly signals the presence of a different odor. “This miswiring may create a flip in the odor perceived, with good odors smelling bad and bad odors smelling good,” said Pellegrino. Phantosmia, on the other hand, might happen if the brain is discharging sporadic signals, leading to odor hallucinations in an individual. Next steps to untangle the cause include confirming these ideas in animal models and translating findings back into treatments to help the patients who report a dramatic impact to their quality of life.

Other research team members are Joel D. Mainland, PhD, Monell; Christine E. Kelly, MSc, AbScent; Jane K. Parker, PhD, University of Reading; and Thomas Hummel, PhD, Technische Universität Dresden.

Research was supported by the National Institute on Deafness and other Communication Disorders of the National Institutes of Health (T32DC000014).

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The Monell Chemical Senses Center is an independent nonprofit basic research institute based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Founded in 1968, Monell‘s mission is to improve health and well-being by advancing the scientific understanding of taste, smell, and related senses, where our discoveries lead to improving nutritional health, diagnosing and treating disease, addressing smell and taste loss, and digitizing chemosensory data.

Our April issue of Accords includes 3 important topics in celebration of Earth Month: sustainability, Indie Brands and an update on the sense of smell from Monell research. Although the topics seem divergent, each topic typifies what we have in common. We are united that scent is essential to our well being, enhances our lives and we all must respect our planet Earth. 

Sustainability is an important focus for the fragrance community. We are united as an industry and are implementing new practices in the entire product cycle from ingredient sourcing to the ultimate packaging. This is a journey we are on now and will be forever with fragrance houses, brands, retailers and all. We highlight leaders of brands that vary in size to show clearly how all can engage in this effort and their stories take us on travels from the jungle to the urban corporate office.

The 2022 Fragrance Foundation Awards Finalists in the Indie category represent brands each created with a unique story and point of view. They were judged objectively by a panel of experts with no brand affiliation. From TFF’s point of view indies are not competitors as each fabulous brand has its own unique personality and scents.

Once again, we thank the Monell Institute for sharing the latest significant research to keep us informed about the sense of smell. This information resonates with us all and we appreciate the clarity as there is much information available affecting those with COVID and other medical challenges that is confusing at times.

Happy Earth Day today – April 22nd! Let us all celebrate together the joy of fragrance as Spring brings us the promise of renewal and reconnecting with nature and IRL reunions!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

This year’s virtual TFF event to celebrate Fragrance Day on March 21st raised the bar for exceptional participation and engagement, and the digital program emphasized the importance of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion to forge a bright and flourishing future for the industry. Among the highlights of the day were two especially inspiring women who have risen to great heights in their careers: Carol J. Hamilton, L’Oreal USA, Group President Acquisitions Women, and Ilaria Resta, Firmenich, Global President Perfumery Division and Executive Board Director, Women Driving Industry Diversity & Innovation. These two titans discussed their career paths and current roles with Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy and Fragrance Foundation Senior Director Sharné Jackson, and shared their thoughts on the importance of mentorship and why the #FragranceForwardTFF movement is such a crucial step in opening up the world of fragrance to creative and passionate individuals from all backgrounds. Read on for some of the highlights.

Carol Hamilton, L’Oreal USA, Group President Acquisitions Women

Linda G. Levy:
Being a woman and rising up as you have is a major accomplishment. Why is diversity—including women, and LGBTQ+ and beyond—so important in the industry?

Carol J. Hamilton:
Diversity is so important. I am very happy that our industry is embracing diversity—I believe in a truly deeper, newer way than before, which was often storytelling but without really digging in and doing the hard work of searching for and righting and balancing the many big inequities of the past. You have to fix things before you can truly start treating everyone equally, because if you just start treating everybody equally and problems and inequities still exist, those are just going to persist as you try to equalize the workplace.

If you are curious about people, if you love people, if you respect people, and you create a diverse group of people on your team through your hiring practices and your retention practices, you will have a much happier and therefore more productive team. The different points of view when you have a diverse team, versus one that is not diverse, are remarkable. Every once in a while, I am thrown back to what I experienced a lot early in my career, which was walking into a room of white men in their 40s or 50s all wearing pretty much the same suit in pretty much the same shade of grey or navy and looking at them and thinking: how am I going to learn from these people? They all become one in your lens. Now when I walk into a room I see so much diversity.

When I met the Youth to the People [Hamilton spearheaded the brand’s acquisition by L’Oreal] team for the first time, I saw that they walk the talk: They embody diversity from the ground up. And it makes their business so much stronger, because they understand the voice of the consumer through their diverse employee population. I am very proud that they have done that, and that L’Oreal is learning even more deeply how to reflect that kind of best practice in our teams at large. It’s one of the most important questions we’re all facing as leaders in this industry.

LGL:
Why is it so important that the Fragrance Foundation be involved as a leader in this initiative with #FragranceForwardTFF?

CJH:
First of all, I love it. It’s so important for the fragrance industry, because the fragrance industry has some stereotypes to shed. We’re known as being very French, for a start, and I think of diversity as cultural diversity as well. So spreading the incredible competencies that it takes to create a beautiful long lasting fragrance is really exciting for this industry culturally, and I think that sometimes the stereotypes that our industry can convey through our advertising – man gets girl, for example – it’s exciting for all of us to think about how we can sell fragrance, how we can create this unbelievable emotion that fragrance evokes, in a different format, with different cultural icons, with things that are not that one standard that just keeps repeating the past and violates who human beings are today. We are so much more interesting than that, and I think that the fragrance industry can embody and reflect all of us, and with your work it’s really starting to happen.

Ilaria Resta, Firmenich, Global President Perfumery Division and Executive Board Director, Women Driving Industry Diversity & Innovation

Sharné Jackson:
What have been some of your most rewarding career moments, and what advice would you give a young person who wants to pursue a career in the fragrance industry?

Ilaria Resta:
When I look back at my career I don’t see achievements, I see the faces of the people I have worked with over the last 25 years. I can vividly remember the moments we shared. And for me the biggest reward is when I can promote people in their career and when I see people in my organization growing. I am also really rewarded by transformation in the business. I love when you are the architect of a change—seeing the change and the disruption that you plan happen successfully.

As for advice, I would say the same to anyone starting a career in any field: I believe in the power of the three L’s: love, learn, and legacy. You need to love what you do. Love doesn’t always come easy. You will have hurdles. But what’s important is that you see the bright side of your love and feed your passion. Second, if you keep on learning every day and move from an attitude of ‘I know everything, I know how it’s done’ to one of openness and learning every day and learning new ways of solving problems that will give you agility and the ability to adjust to new realities. And the third one is legacy. You need to be able, when you do a job, to look back and be proud of what you left behind. It could be on the business side, or it could be a fragrance you created. What’s important is that you have that as a lighthouse as you keep on working.

Linda G. Levy:
Why is Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion so necessary in the industry and why is #FragranceForwardTFF so important?

Ilaria Resta:
It is fundamental. Diversity is an obligation to represent society. And as society changes, diversity will change, and the meaning of diversity will change. I am a true believer that we need to be a mirror of society and represent in an equitable way our society. Today, it is not the case in this industry. And it’s surprising, because this is an industry whose products are consumed by women and loved by women and we have amazing women creators. But still, diversity is not there in the management teams, and there is no diversity across geography in terms of ethnicity, so I see many gaps in diversity. It is fundamental that as leaders in our roles in the industry we need to push for it and enforce it. Sometimes you need to force something from specific hiring practices and focus on diversity as criteria number one. I hope one day this will no longer be the case because we will reach a level of parity.

I am surprised that we lack diversity because it is very well proven by millions of studies that diversity improves business results – and not only that it improves creativity because through diversity and different points of view creativity increases and creativity is the lifeblood of this industry. So, I see no reason why we shouldn’t push for diversity. It’s an effort, because starting from the schools there isn’t even equal representation there, and I’m not talking only about sexual representation but also country of origin, sexual orientation, everything – so even at the base of our recruitment we cannot find diversity.
But what we cannot achieve we need to create. We need to give the tools to educate the people who are under-represented in our industry. We should as an industry talk about how we can create the conditions for all of the under-represented people to have access to our industry.

As we all know, discovering new scents and brands is a great, and supremely rewarding, delight. Fragrance Day 2022 brought this to life with segments that featured three influencers welcoming new members to The Fragrance Foundation, telling the stories of the brands and sharing their olfactive impressions while showcasing a selection of exciting, intriguing scents.

First up was Tiff Benson (@tiffbenson), a self-described New York perfumista, who began with Robert Piquet Parfums, a brand “known for their elegance and sophistication in fragrance” and “iconic beautiful black bottles.” She described the newest offering Bandit Supreme, a leathery, green, aromatic, mossy fragrance, as “retro with a modern twist,” “the perfect unisex scent for chypre lovers,” and “a must-try.”

Next, Benson presented LilaNur Parfums, India’s first luxury fragrance house, which celebrates the riches of Indian floriculture through the lens of French perfumers, saying, “I really admire how the brand embraces its own culture and its unique perspective on fragrance.” She highlighted Rajni Nocturne, which “is all about the scent of night-blooming tuberose” and the Discovery Set, which contains 7 perfumes, including her favorite, the “stunning” Agar Epice.

About Lumira, a luxury niche house from Australia, Benson said, “This company sticks by its ethos which is to be sustainably conscious– using only non-toxic, cruelty free, vegan ingredients. I love that.” She shared Radiant Oud—“If you like resinous, slightly sweet, alluring fragrances, Radiant Oud will leave you with a lasting impression”—and called out Tuscan Fig as a favorite from Lumira’s perfume oil collection.

Benson demonstrated how to use House of Bo’s ingenious fragrance primer, then gushed about the scents themselves, all created by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux—especially Espiritu: “I am obsessed with this wonderful woody fragrance with a touch of leather as well as floral notes of iris and rose. I receive so many compliments when I wear it.” Another new favorite? Libertine, by The Maker, a brand connected to the Maker Hotel in Hudson New York and created by the founders of Fresh. “I love this as a skin scent because the white musk really does pop off the skin in a natural, familiar way.”

Lastly, Benson introduced La Maison Valmont, a luxury fragrance collection made in Italy and inspired by stories of Venice. About Just Bloom, which has notes of lily-of-the-valley, ambergris and gardenia, she said, “This fragrance is warm and buttery; it’s a sensual floral that’s inspired by the contemporary woman. It’s polished and elegant like all of the fragrances from this brand.”

Emma Vernon, fragrance content creator on TikTok, a comedian, and the host of The Perfume Room fragrance podcast (@perfumeroompod) welcomed the next batch of new TFF members, starting with black-owned, female-owned Mair. The fragrance Peony Silk, she said, “is a fragrance for someone who is going to order a mimosa with a meal. Because it’s sophisticated and elegant, but it’s fun. This is that friend who gets ready before everyone else but looks the most put together.”

From Aspen Apothecary, a black-owned, female-owned, CBD infused, cruelty-free and vegan brand founded in 2020, Vernon shares Dusk, a new scent with notes of grapefruit, fig, lily, cedarwood, frankincense, patchouli. “It has an air of luxury in an effortless way,” she said, comparing it to those people who never seem to need reservations to get into the most in-demand restaurants. “The frankincense and patchouli really ground it in something deep and stunning.”

Vacation, she said, “does sunscreen better than sunscreen does.” She painted the picture: “You’re at an all-inclusive resort, basking in the sun, a little bit wet in your bathing suit, lying on a pool toy, lathering on coconut oil in one hand and drinking a pineapple daiquiri in another.” That she said, “is Vacation in a bottle.”

Sir Candle Man (@sircandleman), the Zimbabwe-born, Los Angeles-based candle lover who curates and reviews luxury candles for his followers online, presented new TFF members with candles, but also provided a series of tips on how best to enjoy and use candles in the home. “I personally love a brand that has a story, is backed by a master perfumer, and burns clean,” he said, demonstrating this point with Mizensir, by master perfumer Alberto Morillas. About Palo Santo, a candle with notes of Ceylon tea, cinnamon, and woods, he said, “It feels like a candle you would burn in a sacred space. A candle to give you respite from the crazy busy world.” He showed off his 5-wick Santal Vanille from Voluspa, a brand he said “creates fragrances that transport you to another world,” and gave a major tip: Before you light a candle, always trim the wick to a quarter inch. This keeps the flame from getting too big and creating smoke, and also prevents soot build-up.”

From Source Adage, which creates unique handmade candles made with essential oils, he sampled Great Plains, a green, meadowy scent that he said “smells exquisite. I imagine being in the countryside, on a horse, wearing leather. It’s outdoor luxury.” And then, another tip: Always burn a candle long enough to make sure the entire surface melts, which will ensure that you always get an even burn.

A beautiful candle vessel can become a permanent fixture in your living space, with a multitude of uses. Sir Candle Man, a big believer in using candle vessels as décor, reveals Sacred Ember, from Wickers Creek. “it’s the kind of candle you want people to see when they walk into your home.” And even better? “It smells like a warm hug with friends by a campfire.” Lastly, Sir Candle Man demonstrated how to extinguish a candle—and blowing one out is not best practice. Instead, try using an elegant candle snuffer or a wick dipper. Because don’t you want to treat your beautiful scented candles with utmost care? As Sir Candle Man said in closing: “Take care of your candles and they will take care of you.”

The Fragrance Foundation has developed a strong relationship with the Monell Chemical Senses Center, the country’s leading research facility for all things related to how our sense of smell functions and affects our behavior, moods, and overall health. For the second year in a row, Monell research scientist Dr. Pamela Dalton joined Linda G. Levy in conversation for Fragrance Day, and shared fascinating insight into what has been learned regarding how COVID-19 manifests loss of smell, and how Monell’s SCENTinel Program, which has applications far beyond the pandemic, can help everyone track changes in their olfactive acuity.

Linda G. Levy:
What can a person do to regain their sense of smell if they continue to experience it as part of Long Covid?

Pamela Dalton:
If it’s persistent, they should consult a physician, especially an ENT or someone who can ensure there is no swelling or congestion that would affect the lack of smell. Usually with Long Covid that is not the case. It has to do more with the cells that are responsible for letting our olfactory receptors send smell signals to our brains. For that reason there are not many treatments that we know of. One thing that helps many people is smell training. You select four or five different odors. They can be spices, essential oils, or personal care products. Things that you remember how they smell. And twice a day you take about five minutes in the morning and five in the evening, and you intentionally smell them and think about what the memory of that scent was like even if you’re not getting any scent at all. This seems to be able to restart the process of smelling for some people.

LGL:
Could smell loss happen over and over again if someone is reinfected?

PD:
Unfortunately, yes. I personally know people who had smell loss with the first variant, and then when Delta came around they were reinfected despite being vaccinated and boosted. They did lose their sense of smell, but they recovered both times. We don’t know how repeat insults to the system can affect smell, but we are learning all the time. It’s a horrible thing, but it is an important opportunity for us to remember to value how important our sense of smell is and also to learn as much as we can about how it works and what can disrupt it.

LGL:
What is Monell’s SCENTinel test?

PD:
We were intrigued that one of the first symptoms of Covid was sudden loss of smell and taste. In many cases it was an earlier signifier than a fever. Our idea was to develop a way that people could be quickly screened.

Our SCENTinel test is a unique smell test. It measures four different aspects of our ability to smell, and it is done in less than two minutes. Most smell tests are of the scratch and sniff variety, where you scratch a card and are asked to describe what you smell. We embody four different types of metrics in one test. The card has three patches, only one of which contains the odor. You lift the cover – you don’t have to scratch it – and you decide first of all which patch contains the odor. The second question is how strong the odor is. The third is what does it smell like, and you are given four images to choose from. And the final question is, how pleasant is it? Because some people who have smell loss from Covid, as they begin to recover, have a distortion that makes things that used to smell good smell very bad.
We were funded by the National Institutes of Health to develop this as a screening method for Covid but we see it as having broader implications for understanding the ability of people to smell more generally. We’re all about universal smell testing. In the same way that we get our eyes and ears checked, we should get our sense of smell tested throughout our lives. Right now, SCENTinel is a research tool but very soon we hope it will be available for sale.

LGL:
Why is it so important to know where you are with your sense of smell and how it changes over time?

PD:
Changes in our ability to smell can tell us so much about underlying health conditions. We know for example that many neurodegenerative diseases start with an inability to smell, years before there is a cognitive decline or, in the case of Parkinson’s, before there are motor symptoms. Seeing changes in your sense of smell over time may tell you that you need to be screened. Or it might tell you that you need to have a methane detector installed in your home, for example. There have been many stories over the course of the pandemic about one person in a home who hadn’t lost their sense of smell being able to alert others, who had lost their sense of smell, to a fire. These are potentially life-saving situations and show just how important it is to know if our sense of smell has diminished.

For readers wanting to receive a SCENTinel card, please email: rapidsmelltest@monell.org. And, for people wanting to continue learning about the science of smell, please visit monell.org/fragranceday.

While this spring continues to evolve globally with uncertainty and ever evolving change affected by war and the pandemic, we are dedicated to joining forces with our community to share the creativity, innovation and transformative powers of fragrance.

Our March issue of Accords provides highlights of the BIG day. You can still experience any segment via TFF’s website. March 21st, The Fragrance Day 2022 elevated this annual celebration to a new height and was viewed on the day by more than 3000 viewers. Replay was available the next day and thousands viewed on their own around the globe.

We received great reviews on the content, with Perfumers called out as the greatest stars who shared trends from fragrance house members or their creative process with brand creators. The new event feature of the Scent Discovery Kit, received by the first 1000 US residents to register, was a major success and the ability to experience the scents while learning its story was considered of great value to all.

Fragrance Day was also a natural progression of #FragranceForwardTFF, our #1 priority to galvanize the industry for Diversity, Equity and Inclusion. As March is Women’s History Month, we were fortunate to include discussions with two fabulous and successful women of the industry: Ilaria Resta of Firmenich and Carol Hamilton of L’Oréal, who inspired us with all they shared.

In addition, the annual TFF interview with the Monell Center’s Dr. Pamela Dalton on the sense of smell and the impact of Covid was highly informative. TFF will continue our connection with Monell and share updates throughout the year.

While TFF offered this free event to all, The Fragrance Day was celebrated by retailers and brands across the USA with both in store and online special events and promotions. This year we had more media coverage than ever before, generating coverage to a potential audience of over 200 million via TV, print and social media.

Enjoy this issue and make every day Fragrance Day!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Keta Burke-Williams, Founder

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

Aspen Apothecary exists to create non-toxic, earth friendly fragrances that amplify you as you are. We are inspired by a story our Jamaican mother told us that showed us the power of scent and memory. We are inspired by the knowledge that beautiful fragrances that make us feel good can be crafted without many traditional toxins, and we are driven by the belief that we are all deserving. We are enough as we are, and our fragrances exist to celebrate that!

Why did you decide to join TFF?

We were particularly inspired to join TFF after attending a webinar and learning more about the #fragranceforwardtff initiative. It’s no secret that the industry is not diverse, and we want to be change-drivers reshaping that narrative of who can be the faces behind the brands. We are excited to be members alongside some members and institutions with incredible industry knowledge and passion. We can’t wait to learn from other members, and share our unique perspective as newcomers to the industry to see how we can all take part in helping the world experience the power of scent. I truly believe scent has the power to make us feel and help us connect, and The Fragrance Foundation does important work to help us all consider what the future of fragrance can and should look like.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

Black, female founded and owned, our very existence is driving change in fragrance. We want to change who has a hand in creating fragrances and who fragrances are created for. We are creating fragrances for those of us who have been left out of the traditional narrative, due to color, belief, self-expression, or identity.
We are so excited to bring our unique viewpoint because we believe fragrance has the power to connect us. It allows us to recognize the humanity in one another. For us, fragrance and the power of scent are the ultimate form of self-care, so we are excited to inspire others to experience the world of fragrance!

Mara Dumski, Chief Fragrance Experience Officer

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

We simply want to bring the beauty of fragrance to more people, more often. That ambition led to innovation that blends fragrance, creativity, and technology together to create a home scenting experience unlike any other. We are curators and collaborators with a diverse and prestigious marketplace encompassing the perfect fragrance experience for all individuals.

Why did you decide to join TFF?

Quality changes everything. If our fragrances aren’t the best, created by the best in the industry, we have no place in millions of homes. We know that being part of The Fragrance Foundation gives us the opportunity to rub shoulders with industry leaders, and leads us to putting the best fragrances in the homes of our customers. It is a privilege to associate with organizations prioritizing shared values like the Fragrance Foundation’s mission of diversity, equity, and inclusion.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

Our innovative marriage of fragrance and technology delivers the experience of scent to homes in a way people have never quite felt before. Pura and the Fragrance Foundation understand that fragrance can change your day, your mood, your life, and your attitude. Scent transports you to places where memories are emotional and opens your heart for music to play and colors to dance. Through Pura’s belief in the power of fragrance, we bring the voice of the future to The Fragrance Foundation.

Robert Dobay & Christopher Draghi, Founders

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

We are just as passionate about the process of creating a fragrance as we are about sharing it with the world. Because we formulate the initial accords and facets for target compositions in-house before going to the team at the fragrance house to perfect, our brand’s distinct point of view is inherent in each of our final fragrances. It is important to us to have original scents that are uniquely “adage”.

Why did you decide to join TFF?

The Fragrance Foundation has the credibility and the resources to help us introduce our brand and to connect with the best in the industry. Our love of fragrance, the formulation process, and the excitement of bringing a finished product to the shelf is a shared joy in the community that we look forward to participating in.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

Beyond expressing our passion for what we do, we hope that we contribute to the education of the fragrance consumer as well. Our fragrances are not only an expression of our own passion and creativity but also of the mastery of a team of expert perfumers and evaluators. We cherish that partnership, we learn from it ourselves, and try to inform our audience of what is involved to bring a fragrance to life so that they have a better appreciation for the scents they wear.

Brittany Bell, Director of Fragrance & Education

How would you describe your brand’s unique passion and point of view?

We believe that though our eyes show us the world, it’s what we breathe in that brings us closer to it. At Voluspa, we handcraft scents filled with the essence of exotic locations, rare ingredients and unique experiences, and package them in vibrantly evocative designs that capture a true sense of place. Every fragrance enables a personal journey of discovery that brings the best of the world into your world and expands your horizons along the way.

Why did you decide to join TFF?

We are thrilled to join the TFF to connect with like-minded industry professionals and brands who are passionate about fragrance and fragrance culture. We are so excited to utilize our membership with TFF to further learn and immerse ourselves in the industry and to continue to grow and develop our products and brand.

What do you believe that your brand can contribute to TFF’s mission “to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance”?

With the strike of a match, our complex, globally-sourced fragrances instantly construct a world around you that illuminates your unique interests and passions. Not only do our products ignite a sense of adventure and travel, the vessels themselves are equally captivating, transforming not only your mood but physical space as well, through the use of colors, intricate patterns, textures and more. Our fragrances inspire others to unlock a world of discovery through scent by their transportive qualities, erasing the space between memory and reverie to fill in the details of a daydream.

The Fragrance Foundation welcomed a new class of TFF Notables in a virtual ceremony on February 16th, warmly congratulating a group of eleven individuals who had been nominated by their colleagues for their outstanding career performance. The message shared by all was TFF’s commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion in all aspects of the fragrance industry. The importance of taking action on this front was reinforced by both Jerry Vittoria, Chairman, the Fragrance Foundation, and President, Fine Fragrance Global, Firmenich, and Linda G. Levy, President, The Fragrance Foundation, and each of the Notables was asked to express how they personally would pledge to deliver on the #FragranceForwardTFF mission.

As the Notables will join TFF as ambassadors in the Scents of Success career path series, a series of educational initiatives involving visits to colleges throughout the country, education played a key role in many of the speeches. Notable Amy Caljean, Senior Fragrances Development Manager at MANE, said, “It is time to set the stage for the new and long-awaited standard of our industry. As an ambassador of this movement, my focus is to educate and guide students of my alma mater how to pave their path into this industry. I have the special opportunity to promote exciting careers for those who may not know what awaits them in the inclusive and very human world of scent.” Notable Segolene Dewey, Fragrance Development Manager Firmenich, who established the company’s Changemaker Committee, expressed a devotion to mentoring programs and to “educating external talent about this magical world of fragrance.” Notable Vanessa Marques, Senior Project Coordinator, Symrise, pledged “to be a part of conversations with students from any and all backgrounds on how they too can build a career within this space,” and Notable Alison Zimmernmann, Global Marketing Director Calvin Klein & Marc Jacobs Fragrances, Coty, said, “It is a privilege to work in an industry that empowers people in their everyday lives. I look forward to dedicating my time with the Fragrance Foundation to bring awareness to the many career opportunities in the industry, actively reaching out to universities and new communities.”

Others voiced their commitment to opening up inclusion among consumers as well as in the workplace. Notable Shui Hwang, Senior Marketing Manager, Luxury US Coty promised to pass on her knowledge and opportunities “in particular to diverse audiences,” while Notable Melissa Lombardo, Marketing Manager IFF, stated, “It is our job to authentically represent our consumer’s voice and story.” Notable Alexa Kagan, Senior Brand Manager of Marc Jacobs Fragrances at Coty, said, “I’m so proud of our industry for championing Diversity Equity and Inclusion in the workplace. I am taking actionable steps with DEI starting with the hiring process, making sure we are bringing diversity to our teams every day but also following through and making sure that everyone is comfortable and has a voice at the table. I hope everyone takes this as a next step in their workplace too.” Notable Kristin Wiacek, Director Consumer Insights, Takasago, noted that “since fragrance creation requires a range of talents, from creative to analytical, it can be applicable to all people with varying skill sets. I look forward to sharing my personal experiences within consumer insights, as we represent the voice of the people and how we approach Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion is critical to our research, from data collection to storytelling.”

Some Notables expressed their DEI mission as being inseparable from the greater mission of fragrance itself—that is, to bring joy to everyone in the world, regardless of their background, gender, or beliefs. Florie Tanquerel, Cosmo International Fragrances Perfumer, talked about the way that fragrance can bring happiness and enact real inclusive change, citing her work creating a candle for Labyrinth Made Goods, which gives money to women who have experienced incarceration, and Notable Hassan Benabid, Director of Education Tom Ford Beauty, Kilian Paris, and Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, Estée Lauder Companies, said “I want to inspire people that fragrance is all about joy. It’s not about being a man or a woman, everyone is equal.” Notable Gianni Magliaro, Sales Account Executive, Robertet vowed, “My goal is to continue to push our industry forward to create, innovate, and to be an inclusive place to work,” adding words that sum up the positive future outlook for everyone involved in The Notables ceremony as well as the fragrance world as a whole: “The fragrance industry is a place everyone can call home.”

Bernardo Möller, Founder and Creative Director

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance(s) with a perfumer for your brand?
Creating an experience that helps tell a story behind each scent. I believe perfumers are truly architects of memories.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumer(s)?
Rodrigo Flores-Roux and I are both Mexican therefore we were able to draw a lot of creativity from our upbringing as we were inspired by similar things growing up. For Espiritu, we used Mexican Maculis wood notes which is a kind of tree that surrounded my childhood home and for La Mar we used sea water notes which reminded us of our times with our family in Mexico’s coastline. I believe these notes were key in making these fragrances truly unique and transportive.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?
We really focused on making a collection of scents that were truly transportive and universal. These scents not only represent memories but heritage as well. The sea water notes of La Mar, the incorporation of mexican maculis wood in Espiritu, and our modern interpretation of the generational Mexican Agua de Colonias with Agua de Santos truly made these scents story tellers that are made with the highest quality of natural, raw, and sustainably sourced ingredients.

Lev Glazman, Co-Founder

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance(s) with a perfumer for your brand?
I always dream about fragrances with specific accords and compositions in my head, which are inspired by a personal story, a moment or place. What I love about this process is taking the perfumer on my creative journey, which makes it an incredible collaboration to create the fragrance I imagine in my head. It’s inspiring to see how the perfumer interprets my dream and then brings it to life with their technical craft.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumer(s)?
I find the opportunity in the creative process is to not just interpret an ingredient singularly, but how it smells in its own environment.
For example, when I’m dreaming about a tuberose, I’m envisioning not just how the tuberose smells on its own, but also how it smells in nature. The smell of the earth that is warmed by the sun, the smell of the trees nearby, and the scent of the air around it. These are the integral components when developing a multi-dimensional accord of any composition.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?
When we created The Maker collection we wanted to make sure every fragrance has their own unique character, but also an interconnectedness between them to tell a harmonious story. They are all sensual, complex, and easy to layer together.

Dakota Green, Executive Chair: Operations

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance(s) with a perfumer for your brand?

Carlos Huber and Rodrigo Flores-Roux are simply the best at what they do, and we had so much fun bringing our signature scent to life with them. Our brand is all about creating “leisure enhancing” sunscreen products, and through the development process we identified that people have a really deep connection with the smell of sunscreen. It’s not something you’d realize until digging into it, but with scent and memory being so intrinsically tied, nearly everyone has a cherished memory of sunscreen. One sniff brings you back to the best times of your life: you’re out of school, hanging out by the pool, and your only worry is when the sun is going to go down. Carlos and Rodrigo were able to bottle that emotional, nostalgic, and beloved poolside experience that so many people share.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumers?

Carlos and Rodrigo both have really rich, treasured memories of spending family vacations in Acapulco, and during the creative process they dove into those moments – reminiscing about how the salt air mingled with pool water and sunkissed skin. They called upon notes found in classic sunscreens to give you a jolt of nostalgia at the start, but layered these with beautifully nuanced notes that capture classic poolside memories such as plastic pool toys, pool water, and even swimsuit lycra to completely transport you to a sunsoaked, poolside daydream. “VACATION” by Vacation® is all about celebrating those joyful moments of leisure like they remembered from their holidays in Acapulco, and the scent welcomes you to relish in your own cherished summer memories.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?

With a focus on “leisure-enhancing” products, our fragrance does exactly that; whether you’re in a conference room in the middle of December or on a tropical beach, our signature scent will ensure that you find yourself in paradise. By incorporating an elevated take on nostalgia (in both the formula and the packaging), spritzing “VACATION” by Vacation® offers a welcome respite from the everyday. It’s the scent of sunscreen and summer, sprayable on demand.

Chad Lavigne, Founder

What do you enjoy most about creating a fragrance with a perfumer for your brand?
We were very lucky to be able to have all of the perfumers on-site for the initial brand brief. We were all gathered along the Hudson River touring the site that inspired the brand and I could see the excitement when we were along the beach, in the cave and experiencing the texture in the building. It made such a difference compared to most briefs that land in a presentation deck. After touring the site we spend a good deal of time reviewing the individual fragrance concepts and it all just “clicked”. It was so inspiring having the perfumers out of the traditional briefing format.

What opportunities for scent creativity did you experience working with your perfumers?
We did explore IFFs “Living” technology during one phase of the fragrance development. Essentially it can extract the headspace of any living ingredient or object and then be recreated. Being able to capture the essence of an aged whiskey barrel gives you the opportunity to layer in profiles that are signature to your brand. The possibilities were truly endless.

How are the fragrances that you created for your brand unique?
Each one of the fragrances that live within the brand are creations based upon authentic experiences. For example, Whiskey Nights was born from a visit to a small tavern in the town of Tivoli. For me the space captured the essence of whiskey culture with its aged wood , warm lighting and unusual edit of whiskeys and bourbons. For Sacred Ember, I experienced my first Native American teepee. I was so entranced by the olfactive journey that I experienced but honestly apprehensive about how to best describe the experience with the perfumers. Today, it is by far my favorite fragrance within the brand so hats off to Pascal.
One could say that I am obsessed with fragrances that capture a narrative as opposed to a heavy lean on the ingredients. We are burning our Indie Summer candle as we speak because I am done with the snow and it takes me to bohemian summer days just thinking about the scent. Perhaps my days working with Ralph Lauren are still in my bloodstream…

This Accords issue takes us forward into 2022 with the Fragrance business continuing to remain strong. Consumers embrace fragrance in ways that were strengthened this last year as a personal invisible accessory, as well as an emotional escape to transport us or enhance self-care.

For this issue we asked some of our new TFF members to share insights about their brands so our community could get to know them personally. The brands range from newly launched to established brands who wanted to join our community officially with TFF membership. We hope all of our readers will join us in welcoming all who are based throughout the USA, with brand stories that are each unique and fascinating.

We are also highlighting TFF 2022 Notables, whose words will translate to action for diversity, equity and inclusion #FragranceForwardTFF.

Looking forward to celebrating The Fragrance Day March 21st with you all in store and at TFF’s virtual event!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Manfred Thierry Mugler, who sadly passed away on January 23rd, was a true visionary whose impact on fashion and fragrance cannot be overstated. Having launched his eponymous designer label in Paris in 1974, he ascended to superstar status in the 1980s with his dramatic-yet-graceful silhouettes: emphatically structured shoulders, wasp waists, and prominent peplums that reshaped the body as well as the fashion landscape. Everything he did, from his over-the-top runway spectacles to his lavish, unforgettable advertising campaigns was uncompromising and unlike anything that had come before—something that was also true of his revolutionary approach to fragrance, which he truly believed to be a wearable art. In Part 1 of Accords’ special edition dedicated to Mugler’s genius, two women who worked with him closely— Mugler & Azzaro Global President L’Oreal, Sandrine Groslier-Douhet, and Nicole Fischelis, the fashion expert and former Saks VP who introduced Mugler’s collections to the USA—share memories of their charismatic, legendary friend.

What was your experience working with Thierry regarding the launch of Angel?

Let me quote Manfred himself who said: “I always wanted to make a perfume that could have a common resonance for everyone, something close to tenderness, to childhood. I wanted to have such a sensual contact with this perfume that you almost want to eat the person you love.”

A blue fragrance? A star shaped bottle? A scent with the notes of food? How many times would he hear it was impossible! But Manfred Thierry Mugler would not know the word impossible!

He wanted to create something never seen before, never smelled before which would break the stereotypes and conventions. Indeed, no one could stop him in this dream. Angel really did revolutionize the fragrance industry and created the news fragrance genre: the gourmands.

Angel is the quintessence of the Mugler spirit. A hymn to pleasure, the sensual and carnal fragrance of a woman who is part-angel, part-demon. This fragrance has a power of metamorphosis, with the interplay of multiple facets it is the essence of femininity.

What is your most cherished personal memory of him?

I remember so many bright afternoons of creation with him, ideas that burst forth, his great enthusiasm to push the boundaries of our industry. I remember these difficulties in accepting legal or technical constraints. And this sentence he said to me one day when I asked him to sign a contract: “Do you believe Sandrine that I came to Earth for this kind of thing?”

He felt on a mission. He always wanted to surprise people, to amaze his fans, to create deep emotions and connections with people. A few days ago, again, he told me “Sandrine, I want to make people dream, put magic in their lives, give them a scene and provide strong emotions.” He was a magician.

How would you describe his creative vision, and what made him so unique?

Manfred Thierry Mugler was a genius of everything and had a profound impact on fashion and beauty worldwide. He was a man who inspired, refused compromise and consensus, the one for whom there were no limits.

He was a creator with infinite energy and a boundless sense of creativity who dreamed much harder and further than the others and who built a rich, multiple, coherent legacy. He was nourished with fantasies; he refused nothing, dreamed of himself handsome and strong like the titans of comics, post-war American comic strips.

Manfred Thierry Mugler wanted everything, ran everything and finally obtained everything, being always ahead of his time. He also pioneered the diversity and inclusiveness in fashion, exploring the human in all its dimensions and invented a life to excess.

Apart from his undoubted genius, extreme and uncontrollable, he was a very sensitive and generous man and this is how I will remember him.

What was so revelatory about Thierry’s approach to fragrance, and how did it relate to his fashion creations?

I think that if I should use just two words, this would be BOLDNESS and EXCESS!
Manfred did not know the limits, that is why in the perfumes you have so many overdoses of ingredients, they were at the times an olfactory shock. They were and still are very polarizing, delighting those who refuse half measures and compromise.

According to Mugler, perfume is the absolute art of metamorphosis. Like fashion, it means staging oneself. It enhances the personality, shapes the aura and offers freedom to be someone else, the pleasure of being known and recognized without unveiling yourself. The olfactory shock has a magical effect: it allows those who wear a Mugler fragrance to accept the various facets of their personality, to play on duality, and really enjoy it.

What do you believe his legacy will be in the fragrance world?

I think it will be Freedom. Freedom to create with no fear to break the codes.
Let me sum it up with another quotation of Manfred Thierry Mugler that concludes it perfectly: “I know why my perfumes are so attractive. It’s exactly the same thing that made me so popular as a fashion designer: a signature without concessions, very recognizable and outside conventional codes.”

How did you first bring Thierry Mugler to America?

At the time, I was running the Paris buying office for Saks Fifth Avenue. I was in charge of discovering new talent. That’s how I discovered many designers Saks launched in those years, including people like Christian Lacroix, Claude Montana, and Thierry Mugler. I got a phone call from Thierry’s representative in the early ’80s, and she came to my office with a suitcase. That’s how they did it at the time. She opened the suitcase on my desk, and she pulled out this jacket with this entirely new construction with these shoulders, and a peplum—typical of Mugler. I could not believe what I was seeing, because it was so modern, and so fresh, and so beautifully made. I fell in love with it. Saks bought the line exclusively, right away.

Saks continued to have a great business with his ready-to-wear collection. We used to attend every single show that he produced in Paris, which was so grand, and so spectacular, and so inspirational, and so new and different, with all the star models, the music and the decor. There’s a retrospective going on in Paris right now, at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, where you can see videos of the shows from those years. They were incredible.

What do you remember about the launch of Angel?

We launched Angel fragrance with an event at Saks. I’ll never forget it. Diana Ross came with Mugler to present it. It was an incredible evening and party.

I was completely in love and obsessed with Angel. I think the best way to explain what makes it so special is that it’s all the senses. First of all, the blue color. And then the way that star bottle feels in the hand. And the smell… The jasmine. Personally, I always love jasmine. And the fruity, sweet smell is like a flavor. But it’s not just the way that it touches your senses—it also elevates your imagination. There is definitely a magic to it. You see that star, and it takes you somewhere else.

What are your personal memories of Mugler himself?

Thierry was an amazing persona. He was modest, in his own way. He was always very extremely cheerful, and charming. And his vision was totally futuristic. And he was an artist. He was a designer, but he was an artist, and he was a show maker, and he was a photographer. He had so many different talents. He was a great individualist, but at the same time with a wonderful character.

Everything he did had so many dimensions.

Yes! The fragrance had unique dimension, and the clothes had a unique dimension. Not just enhancing your femininity, but at the same time it was sort of promoting you, giving you strength, because of the construction. They were very wonderful to wear. You wore them, they didn’t wear you.

What do you think his lasting legacy will be?

The magic of his work, you still see today. It came to me when I saw the retrospective in Paris. I got kind of emotional, because it brought me back to this whole time of my career. And it was very clear to me the influence that he still has on the new generation—you can see it in rising designers, the lines of his work.

And the fragrance is also going to remain. It’s unique. It’s individualistic. That’s why it’s still so successful. And the bottle… I mean, everyone keeps it. It’s like an art object. And it had such an impact. Not just the fragrance and the bottle, but even the advertising around it. You never saw that before—Jerry Hall on that mountain! I think the man was a genius.

The creation of Angel, Mugler’s pioneering debut fragrance, is the stuff of legend. When the now-iconic bottle hit perfume counters in 1992, it was a shock to the system—a scent so new, unusual, wonderful, and addictive that it could not be ignored. In bold contrast to the minimalist scents trending at the time, Angel was a patchouli-drenched, cotton-candy sweet juggernaut that single-handedly launched an entirely new olfactory category: gourmand. Even its presentation was a sensation, from the faceted star-shaped bottle—a collectable work of art in itself—to the arrestingly beautiful blue-hued juice. Conceived with then-president of Thierry Mugler Parfums Vera Strubi and perfumer Olivier Cresp (who was then with Quest International, now incorporated into Givaudan), Angel manifested Mugler’s vision to devise a scent that could stop traffic, but also become a classic. And become a classic it has—30 years later, it is still a best-seller. Here, perfume historian Michael Edwards, who so expertly chronicled Angel’s creation in his must-read book Perfume Legends II, and Cresp himself share what made Angel such a lightning bolt
in the world of fragrance.

What was the starting point of Angel for you?

The starting point was the brief I received while I was at Quest international. Mr. Mugler wanted a very powerful fragrance; he was looking for a kind of overwhelming fragrance. For his first fragrance ever, he wanted something outstanding.

I showed him an idea I had which was called “Patchou.” It was a rough patchouli blended with vanilla. Among all the fragrances he had in his hands, Patchou came across as his favorite. He fell immediately in love with this scent.

What were the challenges in creating something so extreme and different, but also wearable?

In order to make it more feminine, we tried to open up the fragrance by adding some floralcy, but it didn’t work. It just wasn’t right.

Then one day, he spent the whole afternoon telling me the story of his life. He was born in Strasbourg, in Alsace [in the eastern region of France], and he talked mostly about his grandmother, and about his childhood. He recalled waking up in the morning and going to the kitchen, tasting and smelling nice things such as milk blended with chocolate, and “pain au raisins” pastry (raisin bread). He also had memories about fairs in his hometown, and he told me how much he loved the color of blue sky and the stars. He also told me about visiting countries like Russia and his encounters with the people and the country – that was during the era of Perestroika. I discovered he was really gifted as a photographer to shoot the stars, the blue skies…

After that in-depth conversation, I went back to my lab; in order to get the blue color, I was using some watery elements, but again it wasn’t right. So I tried to grow the gourmand aspect. I moved my fragrance towards something edible, by using praline, chocolate, honey. It went on for two years to work on modifications. There were 620 trials in total.

After so many experiments, we found the right dosage/ balance between patchouli and vanilla. That’s it!

When did you realize that you had created a truly game-changing scent?

We knew we had a nugget in our hands because we had so many compliments from those wearing the fragrance. Suddenly we were on a trend, but we discovered only later that we were creating a new olfactive family. After the launch, maybe two years later, we realized that the fragrance was totally unique, a kind of UFO, and opening up a new family called “gourmand.” It was incredible. It was a new family no one had explored yet.

For me, Angel is also the first “niche” parfum, in the sense that there were few stores, but Thierry wanted to be number one among competition. He already knew the importance of word of mouth, and of street marketing.

What are your personal memories of working with this larger-than-life artist?

His behavior throughout the project was fantastic. I was in front of a genius, but he always remained humble, respecting everybody around him. He was a very simple man, but very open-minded. He was a visionary and always looking at the future, with so many projects in his mind.