August, 2020

On September 10^th, the gorgeous, gracious Maye Musk will host the special 2020 TFF Awards Webinar. Has there ever been a more aptly named master of ceremonies for a scent celebration? Musk is a dynamic, inspirational personality with an extraordinary biography, from a childhood spent traveling South Africa with her parents in search of archaeological treasures to her wildly successful career as a model, culminating in her current role as age-defying CoverGirl ambassador. She is also a dietitian and author of the recent A Woman Makes a Plan: Advice for a Lifetime of Adventure, Beauty, and Success. Almost incidentally, you might also know that she has 3 highly accomplished children, including a well-known son. As we prepare to celebrate together the achievements of the fragrance community, Musk shares some insight into her own relationship with the enthralling world of scent.

Having presented at last year’s TFF Awards, how does it feel to be this year’s special Webinar host, knowing that TFF was inspired by the positive message of A Woman Makes a Plan?

This was a huge surprise and an honor. I couldn’t believe that I would be given such a special hosting position. Attending TFF awards has always been a highlight for me in New York. Now I am so happy my positive messages in my book are inspiring women, and men. We need more positive messages.

What is your personal connection to fragrance?

From when I was a little girl, I used to play with my mom’s fragrances. She had many. I would clean the face powder off them after my Mom put on her makeup and put them in pretty patterns on her dresser. They were gorgeous bottles and they smelled so good. As a teenager I would wear perfume every day and spray my neck and wrists.  Now I line up all my fragrances and wear a different one every day.

In the 1970s, my children were teased and called MuskRat. Musk was not a nice surname. In the 80s, Musk became a popular name with fragrances. People asked if I changed my name to Maye Musk as I was a model. I told them I had to live with being called MuskRat for 9 years, and now it’s a great name.

You have lived and traveled all over the world. Are there certain fragrances or smells that conjure specific places or memories for you?

Funny enough, many cities and countrysides have different smells. We won’t talk about New York City. Haha! I enjoy reading about the origins of the ingredients in the fragrances, which come from different countries. I remember the scents of spices from India and the floral markets in The Netherlands, and so many other countries with memories.

What is your fragrance routine (ie, a different scent for day and night)? 

Every morning, before I walk my dog, I spray my neck and my wrists with a fragrance. If I’m going out at night, after my bath, I will change my fragrance. depending on what I feel like.

What guides your selection?

I pretty much change my perfume every day, depending on my plans for the day. It’s so much fun for me and brings me joy. We need more joy.

How does fragrance relate to the bigger picture of beauty and success? 

When you wear a fragrance, you feel good and it gives you more confidence.  This gives you a bounce in your step and will help you succeed in life.

August, 2020

Brazilian designer Francisco Costa has long been a force in fashion, having garnered accolades as creative director for Calvin Klein Womenswear for more than a decade. His newest project, however, is supremely personal: In 2019, he introduced Costa Brazil, a line of home fragrance and luxurious face and body oils using indigenous ingredients from the Amazonian rainforest. Costa Brazil is mindfully intentional and committed to proper stewardship of the environment—the ingredients are responsibly sourced, the packaging is recyclable, and the brand’s partnership with the non-profit Conservation International ensures sustainability. The products have drawn raves across the board, but it is their unique fragrance profile that has made them most recognizable and unforgettable. With Resina de Breu, a resin used by Amazonian tribes, Costa has introduced a novel experience to the home fragrance market. Once lit, the resin fills the surrounding space with an intoxicating aroma of soil, leaves, and wood—fulfilling Costa’s mission to remind us how interconnected we are to the earth. Here, Costa shares his inspiration with Accords. 

What has been your relationship with fragrance throughout your life?

Fragrance is everything, fragrance has the power to transport you. I remember taking walks in my childhood in the countryside near my town, the olfactive memory of my childhood is vivid. I also remember my sister’s lavender scent, an alfazema fragrant water she would put on after a shower.

How did you first encounter Breu, and what sparked the idea to introduce it as a home scent?

I discovered Breu during my time with the Yawanawa tribe in the region of Acre in Brazil. I noticed this incredible scent, I thought it was wood, but saw they were tossing Breu into the fire. It’s a wonderful home scent because of its healing and balancing properties; it stabilizes the ambiance in any space, and it is said to open up the 6th chakra.

Why was sustainability so crucial for you, and what have been the challenges and rewards of assuring environmental responsibility?

Beauty is inseparable from the health of the earth. This isn’t something we should be praised about, it’s something we need to consider every step of the way as our new normal. 

What feedback about Costa Brazil has made you happiest?

When people tell me they instantly recognize Costa Brazil through scent, without seeing it. 

As a newcomer to the US fragrance community, what would you say is the biggest difference between the fragrance world and the fashion world?

When fragrance walks into the room, it’s the last one to leave. There is more longevity. 

August, 2020

You may recognize Argentine polo champion Ignacio “Nacho” Figueras and his wife Delfina Blaquier as the glamorous couple from countless Ralph Lauren fragrance campaigns—but with the launch of their own fragrance line last year, they began an entirely new journey into the perfume world. Having zigzagged the planet with their four children for matches and events, the couple wanted the Ignacio Figueras Collection to have a truly international perspective, so the six scents are like olfactory postcards from their favorite cities: Buenos Aires, Windsor, Aspen, Palm Beach, Dubai, and Jaipur. And since family and philanthropy are deeply ingrained in the enterprise, a portion of the fragrances’ sales benefit Prince Harry’s Sentebale charity, which helps children and communities in Lesotho and Botswana. As founders making a tremendous splash with a project clearly so close to their hearts, Figueras and Blaquier share their insight—and excitement for the upcoming awards—with Accords.

You have presented and attended TFF Awards in prior years and have many close ties to the fragrance world having been ambassadors for Ralph Lauren. How does it feel different this year to participate, now that you are TFF members and brand creators?

The difference this year is that we truly feel like we are part of the fragrance community.   We have a much better understanding of the entire process – from concept, through development and finally selling a finished product. In translating emotions into fragrances, we worked with so many artists – perfumers, designers, writers and retail partners that gave us the chance to share our story.  Creating our own brand is a much greater responsibility!

Why was it so important for you to create a fragrance line with a global perspective?

We travel as a family all over the world, often staying for a long time in these polo locations and experiencing so many incredible cultures.  There are many unique aspects of each city yet I find the similarities are what connects us together as people.  We wanted to share the beautiful special emotions that we feel and hopefully connect everyone in a good way.

What has been the highlight of your journey in the fragrance world so far? 

There have been many special moments but the highlight is creating something together as a family.  During the development process we revisited so many emotions and how we grew over the years, solidifying our values and the importance of family. 

What lessons have you learned that you would share with others who are new to the perfume business?

We learned that there are many contributors to a successful brand and although it is a personal process, it is very important to stay open to new ideas.  Another lesson—it is essential to know what you want your brand to stand for. Know what you value.  I also learned to trust my team to help bring my vision to life. We are still learning and are at the beginning of our journey.

How have you incorporated philanthropy into your strategy, and how does it relate to the brand DNA?

Philanthropy is a way of life for us so it was important to make it part of the brand.  We built the brand on three pillars: polo, family and charity.  We wanted to use this opportunity to create awareness and help support the Sentebale charity with our sales and greater exposure.

August, 2020

For this edition of Accords, I am excited to announce our 2020 TFF Awards special host and all the award presenters.

Inspired by her new book, A Woman Makes A Plan, we are thrilled to announce our host will be Maye Musk, international author, dietitian, and model. Maye is a woman of many accomplishments, whose determination and positive outlook drove her to overcome many difficulties & build her own path to success. Maye is truly a role model and shows us that age is not an obstacle but an attribute.

While in prior years, our TFF Awards red carpet was filled with many celebrities from outside the industry as well as insiders, this year we proudly have a star line up where all presenters are highly engaged in fragrance and are active TFF members today. These fabulous presenters will be streaming in from a wide range of USA locations which include their homes, music studios, ateliers, and even a horse ranch. The presenters all share our passion for fragrance and will explain their personal perspectives on fragrance.

ANNOUNCING…… The exciting presenters of the TFF Awards 25 categories are: Two music icons who are both Grammy Award winners and Kennedy Center Honorees: CHER, the one and only who is also an Oscar and Emmy winning, multi-platinum recording artist, actress, and humanitarian;  Lionel Richie, singer, songwriter, composer, multi-instrumentalist, American Idol judge and philanthropist; three extraordinary fashion designers Francisco Costa, Wes Gordon, and Jason Wu; multi-talented artist Rebecca Moses; international polo player Nacho Ignacios and his photographer wife Delfina Blaquier; plus entrepreneurs Chris Collins, Rob Smith and recording artivist Mila Jam. Not only are these fabulous friends of TFF creative forces, each in their own special style, but they are also leaders who GIVE BACK and stand up for Diversity, Equity and Inclusion, the new TFF initiative which has an action plan I will present myself on the webinar.

Looking forward to September 10th with all of you in the audience when we celebrate all the finalists and announce the winners!

We are in the final countdown to the 2020 TFFAwards webinar which will be presented September 10 at 12 noon EDT. So if you have not registered yet, please sign up now at tffawards.org.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

July, 2020

If you recognize Chris Collins, there are a few reasons why. For 20 years, he was the face of Ralph Lauren, appearing on billboards and in ads, and traveling the globe as a brand ambassador. But talk about a pivot. In 2018, Collins launched his own eponymous fragrance collection, an assemblage of beautifully crafted, luxurious scents, each brought to life with a vivid, inspiring story. His first collection, Harlem Renaissance, drew a scented line between Paris and Harlem, celebrating the spirit of early 20^th century artistic pioneers who hailed from the borough and traveled abroad, such as Josephine Baker, as well the creative energy that flourishes in Collins’s home neighborhood today. A passionate force in the world of fragrance, Collins is on the core leadership team of The Fragrance Foundation’s initiative for Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion, and has made it his goal to help fledgling brands flourish.

How and when did you first become interested in fragrance?

This goes back to when I was a kid. I’ve always loved cologne. My dad used to wear all of those now iconic scents like Grey Flannel and English Leather. As I grew older, I became more infatuated with it, never thinking that my love affair with fragrance would one day end up with me owning my own brand. But along the way, I met a few people who were able to make that journey happen. I knew I had to go for it. Because this is the thing that I’m in love with more than anything.

What initially inspired you to embark on creating perfumes? 

Meeting Kilian was probably the most important connection I made that led to where I am now. Kilian and Frédéric Malle were the first two brands to introduce me to the world of niche fragrance, because before that all I really knew were brands like Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. I was introduced to a Frédéric Malle fragrance by a friend of mine, and when I ran out of it, I went to buy it again. But I went to the wrong store and I ended up buying a Kilian scent. That started me down a path of discovery.  Then our universes sort of collided. I was wearing one of Kilian’s fragrances, and I met someone who worked with him. I said, “I would love to meet Kilian.” And not only did we meet, we worked on a project together—a customized, bespoke fragrance. When I had the bug to launch my own brand, he was very supportive and still is. He’s been an incredible mentor.

How did you find the perfumers to work on your brand?

 I knew that in order to fully understand the world of perfume I needed to go to Grasse, to the birthplace of perfumery. I flew to Cannes and I started to do research on fragrance houses like Givaudan and Robertet and some other small houses. I showed up and said, “I have this idea to launch this fragrance brand. I would like to know how the process works.” And they were all very welcoming. I stayed there for a few months and met some Perfumers to learn about the science behind perfume. I ended up, for my first collection, with a smaller fragrance house, because it was important for me to start from scratch. Finding the perfumers was challenging, but it was part of the process. I had to pay my dues and take the time to be taken seriously. Now I have a group of incredible Perfumers that I work with who do a great job of telling the stories that I like to tell. Perfumers to me are the artists. It’s fascinating the way we work. I always say that the Perfumer and I need to have a great dance together. They have to understand me personally as well as my ideas, and literally speak for me to tell the story of the perfume.

Why do you believe the storytelling aspect is particularly pertinent for perfumery, and why was it so important to you to create a brand with a real connection to Harlem?

Along the way, I figured out that I had a lot to say. And I really believe that not only should every perfume have a great story, every great brand should have a great story. For the first collection, the idea to launch the brand happened in Harlem, so I knew that I needed to pay homage to Harlem and the Harlem Renaissance of the ’20s and the Renaissance that’s happening as we speak. In my opinion, there’s a real resurgence of fashion, art, and food going on, and this is my contribution to that.

Danse Sauvage is the story of Josephine Baker. Harlem Nights is my depiction of a Harlem speakeasy at night. And Renaissance Man is the rebirth of mankind, not just men in general, but the rebirth of men and women together. Those three fragrances told stories that were important to me to tell from the very beginning. There’s also an incredible connection between Harlem and Paris. Josephine Baker, and Duke Ellington, Langston Hughes all left New York and went to Paris, where they were welcomed with open arms.

How do you think your experiences in the fashion industry influenced or benefited your perfume business? 

I’ve always felt like fragrance was an accessory to fashion. I was able to connect it to what I learned through fashion, when I was involved in working for Ralph Lauren. Working with and for him I learned so much about branding and marketing, messaging, packaging—it was almost like I went to RL university. I think it all happened for a reason. Over 20 years it taught me so much. Now I’m here with my own brand, which is an incredible, humbling feeling.

What are your favorite notes? 

My brand, I would say, is genderless, because I don’t believe in saying that fragrances can only be for men or women. Some men are drawn to florals. There are a lot of women who love to wear a more masculine scent. The one common denominator to most of my fragrances is that they have an intensity to them. They all have 20 to 25% fragrance oil. I love boozy notes. I work with a cognac accord. I work with a rum chord. I love oriental, woodsy notes. Even the one floral that I have, Tokyo Moon, is very musky and woody, even though the violet note is the hero. I’m now transitioning into teas and more florals and solar scents to open up the wardrobe of my collections. But my DNA is still going to be imprinted on them with boozy notes, gourmands, and woods.

What are your plans for the brand in the future? 

Obviously with everything going on, a lot of my plans have been slightly delayed. But I’m adapting and figuring out the way forward. I’m just going to continue to make more incredible fragrances. I may enter into the world of home fragrance and possible auxiliary products and grooming. I do plan to expand the brand, but right at this particular moment, I’m still focusing on mastering the universe of perfume.

How has your relationship with The Fragrance Foundation been beneficial?

 The other single most important connection or relationship that I have in the perfume businesses is with Linda. She’s been so helpful in ways that only she and I will ever know. I’ve had legal questions, I’ve had creative questions, relationship questions with retailers. She’s been incredibly helpful. She’s always there for me. We’ve had some brilliant heart to heart discussions. What she’s done with The Fragrance Foundation is more than impressive. And now we’re working together on an initiative to bring more diversity to the world of perfume.

How will you contribute in your leadership role on TFF initiative for Diversity, Equity & Inclusion? It was on my mind prior to the racial unrest that is happening in the country. I had already had a conversation with Linda about it. I said, “It’s very rare for a person of color to have a brand in perfume. We need to talk about it more,” because one of the responsibilities that I have is to inspire others and help or lend whatever advice that I can give. One of the things that we’re going to work on is using my resources and what I’ve learned through my successes and my mistakes to help others, because they both go hand in hand when you’re launching a brand. I think it can be very daunting to people, and especially people of color who don’t honestly think that it’s possible.

I’m here to say that it is possible. I want to be able to help and to make sure that this world of perfume is more diverse. Women of color, men of color, women in general. I just think there’s enough room, enough space for all of us to thrive. When I started having this conversation with Linda she thought it was a fantastic idea. Then the idea just accelerated after everything happened with the racial unrest. I’m very proud to be on this committee. I’m here to build an incredible brand that all people can be proud of, especially people of color, because I want them to be inspired.

What can new TFF indies learn from you and your experience?

 I’ve made so many mistakes. We’re all going to make mistakes. The key is to be able to live another day to be able to fix those mistakes. To me it’s three things. There’s the creative process, which is obviously the most fun, the most fulfilling. But there’s also the business aspect and the legal aspects. It’s very important to pay attention to all three, because if one of those legs is not done properly or doesn’t stand strong the whole business can be affected negatively. My advice to indie brands is to pay attention to all of it, the creative, the legal, and the business parts, because the brand cannot be successful without all three moving together.

July, 2020

When Bombay-born fashion designer Shalini Kumar launched her fragrance collection in 2004, she did not hold back. Her goal, she says, was “to create opulent perfumes composed of the rarest, purest ingredients,” and the first scent out of the gate, Shalini, was a tour de force white floral composed by esteemed nose Maurice Roucel, who has since created a wardrobe of sumptuous showstoppers for the brand. With a background in architecture as well as couture, Shalini brings an attention to detail and eye for luxury to every Shalini Parfum, each of which is available for collectors in limited-edition Lalique bottles that are themselves works of art. Here, she shares her journey and inspirations with Accords.

What inspired you to start your fragrance brand?

I believe I was destined to create a collection of pure parfums. My first scent memory was as a baby being massaged in essential oils by my mother. There were different oils ranging from classic florals — rose and jasmine — to others like sandalwood, olive and ylang ylang. That’s when my love for fragrance was born.

I started my career at Valentino where I developed an appreciation for couture and the history of design, luxury, and longevity. Subsequently, I launched my own Haute Couture collection, Shalini Couture, focused on womenswear and a limited collection of jewelry. Shalini Parfum was conceived as a heritage brand built on the principles of classical French perfumery. I wanted it to be the ‘essence of luxury,’ and the fragrances to be modern masterpieces. Our fragrances are of the pure parfum concentration so the wearer can feel the quality of the natural essences. Each bottle is hand-poured and presented in beautiful black boxes handwritten with gold ink and tied with our signature Shalini yellow ribbon.

Historically, perfumes were not used merely for beauty, but for healing and prayer—the spiritual element. My vision for Shalini Parfum is returning to the healing properties at the root of perfume.  

How did you find and begin to work with perfumer Maurice Roucel?

I met Maurice through a friend and we instantly connected. He visited my atelier a few days later to see the couture collection and we had a very long lunch. Tuberose is my favorite flower and I lamented to Maurice that it was difficult to find a parfum composed of the pure tuberose absolute, often referred to as liquid gold. His response was “Let’s create one.” This was the beginning of Shalini Parfum.

I wanted to create the most exquisite tuberose and neroli fragrance. As a child I would sneak into the garden at night so I could inhale tuberoses by the moonlight. My first memory of neroli was arriving in Seville in the evening hours and the entire city was filled with clementine trees in full bloom. The smell of the orange blossoms was mesmerizing. So my Shalini parfum was originally created for my skin and we offered it to our special couture clients.

Maurice is a pleasure to work with. We connected instantly in creating something of lasting beauty. He captures what I am yearning for. It is a joyful experience. He has the soul of an artist and is very present and connected.

What challenges did you face getting established?

My journey with fragrance was rather miraculous. I didn’t experience many of the challenges faced by most brands. I desired to launch Shalini Parfum at the prestigious Bergdorf Goodman, and Pat Saxby, VP Divisional Merchandise Manager of cosmetics and fragrances at Bergdorf fell in love with Shalini immediately and decided to launch it. Pat is the Godmother of the brand. She recognized the uniqueness of my Parfums and has always believed in them. Harrods Salon de Parfums has also been extremely supportive. They have an exquisite display of our parfums and have dedicated their most coveted wall to them.

I do face some challenges in launching in the Middle East and Russia. We have many clients in both these areas and they would like us to launch the parfums there. However, the logistics and registration processes are rather complicated. 

Your Lalique flacons are so special. How did you begin to incorporate them into the world of Shalini?

For Shalini, I envisioned a bottle that would convey the exquisite beauty and the lightness of flight of the fragrance. I found the beautiful Lalique crystal flacon “Le Coquillage” in Paris. The design reminiscent of a butterfly wing echoes the preciousness of the fragrance.

It is an honor to be able to present our opulent pure parfums “Grand Cru” in the exquisite creations of Rene Lalique. Each parfum has its own Lalique flacon which reflects the inspiration of the parfum. The sense of the visual is extremely important to me and the Lalique flacon allows the wearer to engage both sight and smell. To hold the falcon in your hand as you apply the parfum on your skin is magical.

What do you love most about fragrance?

Fragrance transcends country, gender, culture, religion and season. Like music, it is an art form that is very inclusive. I compose my fragrances like poems that leave something to the imagination of the wearer to interpret based on their own memories and experience. My fragrances are inspired by moments and memories of my life—my magical childhood, my first love, endless days of summer by the Mediterranean, arriving in Seville in the evening hours, driving under the night sky of Dubai, fields of blue lavender in Provence…and the sense of the ethereal. 

The passion I bring is very deep. It is an offering of the self, at the soul level to the wearer. The wearer experiences that passion. Fragrance is what a person wears closest to their skin. It enters the body through the pores and affects the soul in the most subtle way.  Selecting a fragrance is a very personal commitment so our fragrances need to appeal to a deeper sense of self.

 What are your goals for the future?

We are planning to launch our new parfum, Iris Lumiere in Autumn. Harrods has an exclusive pre-launch in August, and we have a worldwide launch in September. There will be a sixth parfum of the series with Maurice Roucel planned for Autumn 2021.

We have a loyal following all over the world including Royal families on two continents. Our brand has been built through word-of-mouth by those who understand “the essence of luxury” that we stand for.  We are looking for an umbrella company which would understand the luxury and purity of our parfums and bring in the infrastructure to develop the brand worldwide.

How has being a part of The Fragrance Foundation benefitted your business?

Linda is a wonderful friend and mentor for me and I have immense gratitude for all the support of The Fragrance Foundation. It is a great community to be part of. There is also an immense learning opportunity in connecting with the foundation members at events.

Amorem Rose was a finalist for The Fragrance Foundation awards which brings visibility and honor to our brand, and Paradis Provence was also nominated for an award which was a great honor. The Fragrance Foundation is also very supportive in including our brand on Instagram and other media. This brings further visibility and is wonderful.

What can you teach other independent brands from your experience?

I always say find something you believe in and pour your heart into it. Trust that your heart and creativity will take you in the right direction. Don’t follow any trends, just your inner vision. I believe it is very important to be authentic in your creation as well as your message.

As a child, my grandfather took me to the races where he showed me that the thoroughbred horses wear blinders when they race so they are not distracted by others. He told me that to be a success in life you need to think like a thoroughbred and focus only on your vision and not what others are doing. To this day, I follow that advice.

Persistence and patience are extremely important virtues in any endeavor. I remind myself of this every day. I also feel it is very important to connect with your clients, spend time with them and laugh with them. I understood that during my time in haute couture where my personal relationships with our clients was very important.

How can you contribute to The Fragrance Foundation’s initiative for diversity, equity, and inclusion? 

As a woman, creator and artist I have lived and traveled in many parts of the world. This shifts your awareness and everything you create encompasses your view of the world.

Our parfums are inspired by different places, and bring not only the essences of those places but also their culture and art, their very soul. Diversity begins with compassion and understanding of another culture, religion, food, music and art.  Once you raise your soul consciousness, diversity, equity and inclusion become a natural state of being. You transcend these definitions.

July, 2020

Otherland candles make you happy just to look at them. To light them, even more so. Founder Abigail Cook Stone began her career as an art buyer for Ralph Lauren, so it’s no surprise that when she decided to launch a home fragrance brand, she brought discernment and a flair for style to the enterprise. Working with perfumers to concoct perfectly balanced scents that fill a room but never overpower, Cook Stone’s vision was to create a collection of meticulously (and cleanly) crafted candles, so beautiful that you’ll want to display the glass vessels long after the wax has dissipated. With an engagingly joyful social media presence—tune in to one of Cook Stone’s Instagram Lives for a delightful diversion—Otherland has infused the home fragrance landscape with a new, youthful energy. Here, Cook Stone fills us in on how she got Otherland off the ground and made it a runaway success.

What inspired you to start Otherland?

I’ve been obsessed with art, candles and the power of scent my entire life. I came from a background of art and design, studying art history in college and working in the Art Acquisitions department at Ralph Lauren. When I was in business school, candles became a part of my everyday self-care routine, from my morning Headspace meditation to unwinding after a long day of class with Netflix and a sheet mask. I was obsessed with candles, but what I could afford wasn’t matching what I liked. I realized through talking with my friends that they felt similarly. 

Seeing this opportunity, I wanted to build a modern brand with high-quality fragrance at an accessible price and with a focus on art. It’s a consumable, experiential object d’art (visual, olfactive, tactile), while incorporating storytelling and community through digital channels. Hence, Otherland!

What principles and brand attributes were most important to you from the start?

I define brand as the relationship a company has with their customers, and every touchpoint counts: from logo all the way through to packaging, engagement on social media, even the tone of customer service. We spent a lot of time considering how our brand would be consumed at home (and on Instagram), not just at the point of purchase on our website, and studying what the key elements could be to differentiate it. 

We decided to invest in not just extraordinary fragrance, but placed equal importance on visual design. We work with different artists to create each new collection and design custom packaging with lots of unique surface areas as a layered canvas for the storytelling and scent experience to play out. As a digitally-native brand, expressive color, pattern, and design–seen in the packaging, social media content and website–activate an emotional connection with our customers that inspires them to purchase, overcoming the hurdle of not being able to smell beforehand.

What was the initial development process like?

I decided I first needed to learn how to make candles, so I turned my very tiny West Village NYC kitchen into a candle laboratory. After a month of near-daily production (and starting a few small fires)—testing out different wick sizes, container shapes, wax blends, fragrances, melt temperatures—I felt confident I had enough background knowledge to talk to manufacturers and fragrance houses. 

While working with a major fragrance house seemed out of reach as a pre-launch startup, at a friend’s bachelorette party she strategically seated me next to a friend of hers who worked at Firmenich and connected me with Asha Talwar Coco. Asha believed in my vision for the brand from the start, and I’m grateful Firmenich took a chance on us at such an early stage and has continued to nurture our brand, as well as Givaudan more recently.

How did you decide on the scents, and how did the unique packaging evolve? 

Each Otherland scent is inspired by a vision or nostalgic memory, creating complex, unexpected scent combinations that naturally lend themselves to storytelling and artwork. It was important to me to develop scents in an evocative, emotional, experiential context instead of focusing on single ingredients like grapefruit or rose.

In terms of the packaging, we knew we wanted to develop a system that would allow us to work with different artists for each new collection. Having a unique assortment of surfaces for printed artwork for their creation to occupy and communicate the scent experience and collection vibe with was critical: the large, frameable “platform” in our box, the candle “topper” lid, the matchbox, and candle label. This modular system has allowed us to successfully develop and market such distinct collections while allowing the brand to evolve visually and bringing a constant sense of newness to our customer. 

When you were establishing the brand, was there a moment that felt like a breakthrough?

Less than one year after launch we received an exciting call from Instagram letting us know they had selected us for the first-ever official Instagram Holiday Gift Guide. A few months later, Instagram’s Eva Chen was unboxing our candle on Good Morning America – an awesome and surreal moment for a young brand! 

What are your goals for the future of Otherland? 

One of our biggest goals has been to expand from direct-to-consumer to omni-channel distribution. We recently launched in select Nordstrom stores and will have more to share on this effort soon, so stay tuned! 

In the next five years, my goal is for Otherland to be the go-to candle and home fragrance brand for millennials. In addition to our omni-channel expansion and continuing to build our direct business, key growth drivers will include launching new product formats and thematic scent collections, and our own stores and pop-ups down the road. 

Another goal is to continue developing our digital community on social media. At the beginning of the coronavirus lockdown in mid-March, I started doing daily Fireside Chats on Instagram Live to further the conversation around self-care, fragrance, women’s entrepreneurship, and the art of living well. I’ll admit, I had never done a livestream before and was quite nervous about it! I pushed myself to give it a try and am so glad I did, as it opened the door for us to interview guests like Arianna Huffington, itCosmetics Founder Jamie Kern Lima, Marie Claire Editor-in-Chief Aya Kanai, SNL’s Heidi Gardner, HoneypotCo Founder Bea Dixon, drybar Founder Alli Webb, designers Rebecca Minkoff and Cynthia Rowley, activist Noor Tagouri, chef Candace Nelson, and more.

What’s the secret to a great Insta Live, and what have you learned from doing them?

The secret to a great IG Live is in the prep work! Finding the great guests, thoroughly researching them, and developing a tight list of questions that lend to engaging, attention-grabbing conversation while speaking to overall brand themes, current events and cultural climates, and the guest’s specific identity and story. 

One thing I’ve learned is to approach each Fireside Chat as a two-way conversation, not just an interview. Rather than just reading off questions to the guest, by putting myself out there a bit more and sharing some of my experiences I’m able to better connect with the guests. You get better, more interesting answers when the guest feels comfortable enough to let their guard down a bit and it feels like a chat among friends. 

How has being a part of The Fragrance Foundation benefitted your business?

I’m grateful to have been introduced to The Fragrance Foundation early on in the life of Otherland. Their nurturing of our young brand has made a real impact, from introducing Otherland to the fragrance industry community and sharing us on social media, to mentoring me as we scale and face new challenges and opportunities such as moving into omni-channel distribution. As an outsider to the industry, having The Fragrance Foundation’s warm welcome and guidance has made a meaningful difference in setting us up for success as we grow our business. I feel deeply inspired to be among a community of so many brands and individuals who are so passionate about the art and creativity of fragrance and I love to hear the stories behind brands, perfumers, fragrances, ingredients and creative processes. It inspires me to continue to build Otherland.

How will you contribute to The Fragrance Foundation’s work to nurture other indie brands? 

I look forward to welcoming other indie, startup brands to this community through making myself available for mentorship to other founders, supporting on social media, and sharing our Otherland founding story to inspire others.

July, 2020

We are very proud to share this issue featuring three inspiring entrepreneurs. Chris Collins, Shalini Kumar and Abigail Cook Stone each developed brands that are unique, as are their personalities. They are true personal love stories in fragrance. In the last few years TFF and I developed lifetime relationships with each founder that makes me so proud every time I catch a whiff of their fragrance and have a huge smile visiting them online and in-store. They are inspiring individuals whose brand stories exemplify our TFF mission and objectives.

As we have shared recently, The Fragrance Foundation is dedicated to our major new initiative to expand our membership and community with a focus on diversity, equity and inclusion. A major force within this effort is to nurture indies and amplify the talent of the diverse creative forces in fragrance, reflecting the entire USA population. We are embracing all new members, so it was fitting to bring these three unique stories to our audience. We look forward to many more joining us.

Our course of action and ambition is to broaden our membership, offering benefits including education, mentorship and connectivity within this exciting industry.

Enjoy the experiences shared in Accords and you will be inspired as am I. World of Chris Collins, Otherland, and Shalini each show what is possible in creating a fragrance brand. 

Keep your eyes on them and experience their scents as they are just at the beginning of their brand journeys to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Julee Wilson is a veteran beauty editor with a keen eye and a dynamic career path that has taken her from Real Simple to Huffington Post to Essence—and now to Cosmopolitan, which she joined as Beauty Director in April. Wilson has been a vital force for change in beauty, fashion, and media, joining forces with purposeful organizations and making her voice heard as an engaging Instagram presence and public speaker. As a key participant in The Fragrance Foundation’s initiative on Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion, she will work to bring attention to those in the fragrance industry who have been underrepresented, and contribute her invaluable insight and energy to the cause.

What excites you most about joining Cosmo?

For most of my career, I was in mainstream media. I spent six and a half years at Real Simple. I spent almost five and a half years at Huff Post. Really only a blip of my existence has been at a more niche Black publication, but I think that being at Essence allowed me to really hone my voice and understand the problems within beauty and fashion. That’s given me the confidence to now go into an iconic brand like Cosmo and be bold and unapologetic about the direction that I’m hoping I can push the beauty content. It was dope anyway, but as a Black woman, I can bring new ideas, and more diversity and inclusion. And just in general, I’m a beauty fanatic. I’m interested in making sure that everyone feels celebrated and excited and that we give them the best content Cosmo has ever had.  

You’ve been such a strong force in pushing for diversity across the board in beauty and fashion. What have you been proudest of along the way?

I’m most proud of my work in diversity and inclusion. I’m hell bent on making sure that my seat at the table is not taken in vain and that I’m not just there going through the motions. I’m really pushing whatever company I’m working with to be more woke. I don’t take that lightly and I don’t hold any punches. I’m tactical about it. I obviously want to make sure I’m presenting my ideas in a way that makes sense and from a loving place. But at the same time, I’m very forward about the things that I think need to be done and changed in the industry. And so a lot of my work has centered around that. I love the project I started at Essence where I pulled back the curtain of the beauty industry at different beauty brands and celebrated the Black women there. A lot of times there are not that many, but they are the ones doing the work. Part of the legacy that I would like to leave is that I told really dope stories and that I was able to celebrate people who might not be celebrated otherwise.

What are some of the organizations or groups that you support that we should all be kind of watching and supporting and learning from?

Harlem’s Fashion Row is an organization that champions designers of color to make sure that they get the visibility and the resources they need to succeed in the fashion industry. I’ve been on the advisory board since it started, which was 11, 12 years ago. I’m also a part of 25 Black Women in Beauty, which celebrates Black women in the beauty industry and Black-owned companies. These are women from all aspects of the beauty industry, from founders to women who work for the big corporations to editors like myself. That’s a really great organization, really championing diversity within beauty.

What would you say are some of the biggest obstacles that we still need to overcome in beauty and media?

There are a lot of problems, but I’m a glass half full type gal. So, I definitely approach it from “Okay, but how can I help?” Instead of just wagging my finger. It’s about being a changemaker. I think it’s everything from soup to nuts in the beauty industry. It starts with product development and goes on up. I always use the example of edges because they are a universal truth for Black women. No matter how we treat our hair or how we wear our hair, our edges matter. And if you look at the top beauty brands in the industry, how many of them have products for edges? If it was universal for white women, every brand would have multiple products. The fact that even just our basic needs are not being met is such an opportunity for growth within beauty.

I think things happen when you have people of color in leadership positions and at the table in your company. I’m not just talking about interns and assistants, I’m talking about true leadership, people who make decisions. That goes for beauty brands, that goes for magazines and media. You wouldn’t know that edges matter if you didn’t have a person of color on your editorial team saying, “You’ve never printed a story about edges, that’s a huge mistake.” Again, that’s just one small thing. I could run a list of things within ethnic communities, not just Black. I think a lot of times we get stuck in Black and white, what about our Latin X, brothers and sisters? What about our Indian brothers and sisters? What about our indigenous brothers and sisters? There are so many nuances within our culture when it comes to beauty that people completely forget. I think it’s dangerous to only be concerned with the beauty that’s reflected in the mirror.

What do you hope to accomplish with your involvement in The Fragrance Foundation’s initiative for diversity, equity, and inclusion?

It’s about shining the light on a group of professionals within this space that have largely been forgotten. There are Black perfumers and Black-owned fragrance companies out there that have been trying to establish a presence and haven’t really been able to the way that their white counterparts have. And I think that’s due to a lack of visibility, and a lack of resources for a start. I think that this will be a great opportunity to give them the attention that they need in all of those different areas. I’m really excited about that because I think that it’s a new frontier for the fragrance industry. Not only is it morally right, but business-wise it makes sense. The fragrance industry can feel very elitist, and so I think that this is an opportunity to kind of open those doors and show that it can be diverse and it can be welcoming and inclusive.

What do you personally love about fragrance?

Fragrances to me are like shoes, I have way too many of them and they really dictate my mood and my personality for that day. At home I have probably 80 to 90 fragrances. Obviously, it’s an occupational thing, too, but I’m that girl. One of my beauty rituals is that I put a fragrance on every time I wash myself. After I shower in the morning, and then again if I take another shower when I get home at night. Even when I’m just getting ready for bed, I put fragrance on.

I don’t feel like I’ve completely gone through my wash routine unless it ends with putting on a fragrance. Sometimes it’s more than one fragrance. I shadow my fragrances, wearing something different on different parts of my body. At night I usually only just wear one, but I love picking out which one that might be based on my mood and how I’m feeling after that long day. It’s nice to have a little finishing touch.

Jason Wu, lest he need any introduction, is one of the world’s leading fashion designers and lifestyle creatives—and the very scent-attuned, super-involved creator behind the beloved Jason Wu fragrance and its nighttime sister Velvet Rouge. Just as he has always broken down barriers with his democratic fashion vision, Wu has also been actively working to give voice to the marginalized, striving for progress and acceptance for all in his role on the Board of Directors of the GMHC [Gay Men’s Health Crisis] organization. Most recently, he aligned with the creative agency Collective Shift to design a face mask for Distance Yourself from Hate, a campaign that features social media PSAs from an array of voices from the arts, fashion, and entertainment worlds (think everyone from Rosie Perez to Diane Kruger to Latrice Royale) calling for an end to prejudice and discrimination. All proceeds help GMHC provide assistance to people in need throughout New York City. As he joins the Fragrance Foundation’s initiative for Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion, Wu shares his thoughts on how the fragrance and fashion industries can be powerful players in communicating messages of love and solidarity that will make the world better for all.

How did you originally get involved with GMHC?

I’ve been on the board for about five years. I was originally on the board of ACRIA [AIDS Community Research Initiative of America], which merged with the GMHC, a much larger HIV/AIDS organization. I’ve been working with them at their center on 38^th street and in many other capacities. We do the AIDS walk every year, and we do the Latex Ball, where thousands of voguers come to compete. These kids are just incredible, and it’s a great way for our community, which is very diverse, to come together and share their creativity. This year I took on more of a developmental role, to come up with ideas and see how we as a service can be even more inclusive.

What was the genesis of the Distance Yourself from Hate project, and why was it so important to expand the message to all kinds of discrimination?

With everything that started happening with the pandemic in March, we sought out a collaboration with my friend Jae Choi at the Collective Shift creative agency, and came up with the program for Distance Yourself from Hate. It started because it became very apparent that face masks would become important to our daily lives in the coming months, and we wanted, first of all, to address the issue that there was a lot of anger and discrimination against the Asian community at the beginning of the virus. Being Chinese myself, I felt singled out, just walking down the street. Jae is Korean American, so he felt the same way. We talked to the GMHC board, which is amazing, and together we thought, how can we expand our services? The GMHC came from the LGBHQ community in the 80s when gay men and women were targeted because of HIV/AIDS. So we’ve seen it before. And now we have technology to spread our message so much more quickly. But the work is not finished. That’s why today in addition to covering the LGBTQ community, we’ve expanded to work with other organizations to provide them with protective masks and food.

Fabien Baron graciously designed the logo. I know everyone in the fragrance world knows his name very well. He’s been a close friend for many years, so I looked no further than asking Fabien to design a logo that’s really beautifully executed and also powerful in its messaging. Then we created videos for social media that involve a hugely diverse group of people from actors to volunteers to people in fashion. It was very important to show our diversity, because in New York City you have such a diverse environment, but that’s not necessarily the case everywhere else. We wanted people who don’t live in big cities to hear from voices they might not hear from so often.

What is some of the most crucial work that you think needs to be done to overcome discrimination, and spread the message of finding real strength in solidarity?

Since we started this in March a lot of things that have happened in our country that have revealed that we have a lot more work to do as a society and as a country in terms of systemic racism and bigotry. As one marginalized community to another, we understand how that feels. We want to be spearheading the idea of leading with a voice of love not hate.

I think a lot of us in creative fields are particularly open minded because we have to open ourselves up to so many cultures and experiences in order to stay creative. We are often lucky enough to be able to travel the world, whether it’s sourcing materials for fragrance materials or for fabric, and there are a lot of lessons out there for us to take away. The creative industry is really primed for helping society move forward to be much more inclusive and forgiving, and spread the message of equality.

How can fragrance and fashion specifically help change people’s perspectives and build a more inclusive world?

I think we can actively use our platforms in order to communicate and spread awareness. Everything is connected. We created a mask, rather than a T-shirt or something else, because we wanted to make sure that we were making something that people actually need. I think it’s become painfully clear how overly consumeristic we are as a culture – and I know that’s weird coming from a fashion designer – but I think we have to slow down our consumption. It was important to create something functional, quality, reusable, and sustainable.

What do you hope to accomplish through your involvement with the Fragrance Foundation’s initiative for Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion?

I think it will really open up the conversation. Every time I go to the Fragrance Awards, I’m always in awe about how international it is. This is more than a national movement, and we’re so solidly connected to the world through the Fragrance Foundation itself, more so than any other industry. I think the Fragrance Foundation can be a key player in helping us to unite and bring our voices together as creatives globally. When you go to the Fragrance Foundation Awards, it’s like the Super Bowl for fragrance. Everyone from the amazing Frederic Malle to the best perfumers in the world are there. And I think that’s something that’s so powerful, how one organization can unite different races and cultures and people from all walks of life who come together in the interest of creating beautiful fragrances.

And these people have all traveled the world. Having been in the fragrance game myself for about three years, I’ve learned so much about ingredients and where they come from, such as my favorite jasmine sambac, which we source from India. These amazing materials connect us, and we can use that connection to spread the word of love.

Rob Smith is the mastermind behind The Phluid Project, which began as a gender-free fashion store in 2018 (originally brick-and-mortar, now digital-only), and has become a powerful community hub and a driver of change in the retail and corporate spheres. This includes fragrance: The Phluid Project’s collection with Scent Beauty, Phluid Scent Elixirs, introduced a revolutionary concept—biphase, nonbinary perfume sprays with crowdsourced notes. As a pioneer in the gender expansive movement and a thought leader on the values and priorities of Gen Z, Smith educates and advocates on behalf of underrepresented LGBTQIA+ youth, working to open up minds and doors along the way. Accords speaks to him about his goals and accomplishments as he joins forces with The Fragrance Foundation in spearheading its initiative on Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion. 

What was the impetus behind The Phluid Project? 

I had been in retail for 30 years, working for Macy’s and Victoria’s Secret and then I had a brand doing licensing work. And then I had an awakening when I went to Burning Man. It was really special for me. One, because it’s a utopian society, where people take care of each other. But it was also interesting for me because it’s an atmosphere of self-expression and people adapt to it very quickly. By day three, heteronormative straight guys are like, “I need tights and I need you to paint my nails now,” because they don’t fit in. Everyone joins in this culture of freedom and caring. I came back thinking, “I need to do more with my life, and participate in a world that’s more compassionate, empathetic and purpose driven.” I quit my job, and I backpacked around the world. On that journey, I came up with the idea for The Phluid Project. I got back in July, and I opened in March. 

What have you achieved that you’ve been proudest of?

When you’re in your 50s, and you’ve been doing something for so many years, just being the first at something was pretty remarkable—and that was finding the intersection of fashion with community, activism, and education in a way that seems really authentic. Building a company with values is the other thing I’m proudest of. I built a value system, and a social code, from the very beginning. Even the names of the scents are from our value system: Transcend, Balance, and Intention. 

How did the Phluid Scent Elixirs come about? 

During last year’s Pride, we worked with Edge Beauty to create scent cards that were gender neutral, with a combination of masculine and feminine notes, and passed them out. We put them in all the packages, and people voted on what scents they liked most—so the final scents themselves were really created by the community. It was an interesting process, to let go, and let them decide what they like.

What made you want to do a fragrance in the first place? 

I was looking for extensions of products to do that would be a natural fit. And the first thing that I wanted to do was fragrance. Steve Mormoris from Edge reached out to me and asked if I would be interested in creating scents with them, and it felt like kismet. It was their idea to combine oil and water. And I loved it. And also the idea of making a collection of scents that put together looks like the rainbow. And the last one, Transcend, is the color of the trans flag. 

What did you want to give people that they might not have found in the fragrance market before?

I think it’s been so binary, for so long. Women’s are florals and fruits, and men’s are spices and woods. It was like, where are the ones that don’t speak to your gender identity, but speak to your humanity? It’s not necessarily just for queer people. It’s for everybody. 

The Phluid Project trains companies how to build more gender expansive teams. Why is that so important ?

We started because I would get dozens of resumes every week. And my team, altogether, was only about 20 people. But I thought, “How can I help these people get jobs?” So, we decided to create a job portal. If you’re looking for a job, and you’re queer, you can put your resume into this portal. And then, if somebody wanted to hire intentionally, from the trans non binary community, to be more inclusive, this would be a source. But I realized I couldn’t send these young people to companies until the companies were trained. I decided to create something called Gender Expansive Training, GET Phluid, and start to educate companies, and get them ready for this workforce and consumer base. 

You’ve become a real thought leader on Gen Z. What are some of the insights you have found about generational values?

I call them Gen Me, and Gen We. They’re Gen Me, because they’re their own brand ambassador. They use social media to voice their performance. Each of them is their own brand. But they’re also Gen We. They’re activists. They care about social justice. They care about all identities. They don’t check just one box. They’re like, “Why do I have to check a box?” The reason the company’s called Phluid is because that’s the space between the boxes. 

What does that say about the importance of inclusion moving forward?

Statistically, over half of Gen Z are queer, or somewhere in the spectrum of gender expression. The binary concepts of male and female are so limiting, but that’s the way the infrastructure is built. I did a TEDx talk on gender and fashion—past, present and future. And I did research on the color pink, and how it didn’t become gendered as female until after World War II. So you think, within a lifetime, this happens. We’re constantly learning and relearning. And now we’re moving so much faster, because of social media. We get so focused on things that are rolling backwards, but you can’t stop the momentum of our planet right now. As young people continue to take more space where their voices can be amplified, we’re going to be unstoppable.

What do you hope to see come of the Fragrance Foundation initiative?  

When I walk into any space and when I partner with anyone, I hope that I can be a voice and advocate for the community that I serve and represent. In this case, it’s Gen Z and specifically the gender expansive community.

It starts out with challenging the idea of the binary system. This idea that there’s just male and female doesn’t allow people to be self-expressive. It will always exist, but how do you break it down a bit? And, when you understand that gender is a social construct, how do you start to deconstruct that? When you think about fragrance, if you’re a girl who loves pink and flowers, you’re definitely represented. If you’re a man who likes masculine smells, and blue and black and brown, you’re definitely represented. But what about the people in the middle, who like both? Breaking down those constructs gives people permission to try new things. It’s fun. And the more we get to play, and be curious, the more we’re going to find our authentic selves. 

This edition of Accords marks the official launch of a major new initiative at The Fragrance Foundation: Diversity, Equity and Inclusion. The Fragrance Foundation Board is aligned and we have dynamic, creative professionals who are dedicated to the importance of this initiative so we can move forward to formulate specific objectives and a plan of action. 

We are fortunate to share the stories of three accomplished leaders of change who will be instrumental at TFF as we define our goals and who will take on this important effort with us. We are confident their contributions will be key to our success in expanding our fragrance community. Julee Wilson, Jason Wu and Rob Smith are great talents who have already dedicated their lives and careers to make the world a better place through positive outreach and inclusiveness, each in their own way.

We ask that you all commit, stay the course, and take action with us to engage an expanded fragrance community. Let us together join in and contribute to our mission: Inspiring the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance. Our objectives remain steadfast: engage consumers, nurture talent, create content rich experiences, give back and insure all are welcomed and included.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

TFF Board Insight: Current & Future State of the Business

For this month’s special edition of Accords, we reached out to Fragrance Foundation board members to learn about how they and their colleagues are navigating the unchartered territory of Covid-19. As brands, fragrance houses, suppliers, and retailers adjust their business practices to changing circumstances, they are finding creative ways to tackle challenges, make vital connections, and carve out exciting opportunities that will propel the industry into a bright and prosperous—if somewhat different—future. Here, leaders share how they have adapted, and the lessons they have learned along the way.

Marc Blaison, EVP, Cosmo International Fragrances

How do you keep your team motivated and on track when you can’t see them face-to-face?

Daily touch base with leaders of the organization and with the cross-functional teams where we promote a constant message of positivity, appreciation, connection, trust and solidarity.

Trusting each other, effective communication and company wide support of shared common goals, sentiments & vision allowing us to stay motivated and on track, even when distance.

Initiatives where we can work together cross-functionally & globally, whether it’s giving back to the community, gaining new perspectives, having a virtual discussion or a virtual happy hour.

Strengthening and fostering a deeper connection with our colleagues by staying more connected amidst the distancing.

Not losing our sense of humor.

How have you seen consumer habits change during this stay home time?

The crisis will not only carve out change and open up new opportunities but fast track existing trends into overdrive; i.e. technology, sensorial escapism, wellness, clean ingredients, transparency and social responsibility.

Consumers are searching for ways to foster a sense of togetherness while apart; connecting in the digital world has never been so important and many are having a greater appreciation for technology more than ever before, virtual spaces are facilitating human connections and social engagements.

Transparency will be a non-negotiable for consumers, more transparent supply chains will ensure the health and wellbeing of those involved in the creation of a product.

People are re-assessing their priorities and values, and shifting away from an uber fast-paced lifestyle, taking this time as an opportunity for a slowdown, a reset…. slow living, slow beauty, self-reflection, mindful consumption, and inner wellness will gain traction.

Penny Coy, Vice President Merchandising, Fragrance and Prestige Skincare, Ulta Beauty

How have you seen consumer habits change during this stay home time?

The guest is even more focused on self-care and wellness. During this time, they have made time to develop regular routines for a sense of “normalcy.” Treatments, like masking and exfoliation, whether it’s face, hands or feet (may be even all at once!). We see these categories continuing to trend, along with candles and home fragrance.  Do-it-yourself hair color kits and nail kits are also very popular.

What is the biggest challenge you find with the new work from home reality?   

As a team we have thrived working together through Microsoft Teams Meetings, Zoom, etc.  What I miss is the interaction with the products—that first moment you experience touching and smelling something new and exciting! Just talking about it isn’t quite the same.

Diane Crecca, SVP, Arcade Beauty

How do you envision the future of fragrance?

Fragrance will always be a part of our lives.  People will need it to relax them, to make them feel good, make them feel sexy and just make them “feel.”

How do you keep your team motivated and on track when you can’t see them face-to-face?

I motivate my team with one on one calls, which at this point I think are vital—I need to make each person feel important.  The Zoom calls certainly serve a purpose but I find it’s hard for me to focus on what each person has to say.

What is the biggest challenge you find with the new work from home reality?

Biggest challenge from working at home is to “step away from the laptop” after a certain time of day.

What is the most positive aspect you see coming out of this situation in terms of work?

I have realized that our company team members know how to step up and pitch in—no matter what the task!

Maria Dempsey, CEO, Nest Fragrances

How do you keep your team motivated and on track when you can’t see them face-to-face?

More frequent Town Halls to update the entire company on the priorities of the business. Lots of calls (rather than emails) so people feel connected.

What is the biggest challenge you find with the new work from home reality?

We are so used to using all of our senses while we work on fragrances—it is hard not to be able to smell, touch and see the products. We are having to create and develop new products without all of us smelling and evaluating them. I also love the energy that people bring to a meeting and that is hard to get from a Zoom call!

Pierre Desaulles, CEO, Interparfums

How do you envision the future of fragrance?

Positive and Bright. Fragrance will have a role to play in re enchanting the world. And doing this with a smart approach.

How do you keep your team motivated and on track when you can’t see them face-to-face?

Staying straight and honest on current challenges and outcomes, and also on the bright future. Also never assuming you know someone else’s every day challenges. Humility in today’s world is key.

What is the most positive aspect you see coming out of this situation in terms of work?

I believe that I will say the opposite of what most people will say. It shows how strong and indefinable the supplement of soul a face-to-face meeting brings to the discussion. I hope it will put the Human back in the center of everything and to me it is through real face-to-face moments. Digital helps and is SO convenient but it is like listening to music online vs going to a live performance. I am sorry but I love live shows.

Nata Dvir, SVP/ General Business Manager at Macy’s – Beauty & Center Core

How do you envision the future of fragrance?

Fragrances have always been a reminder of a special moment or person in one’s life. I think now more than ever people are more sentimental so I see our classic fragrances have a continued resurgence as people want to have a comforting scent surrounding them.

How do you keep your team motivated and on track when you can’t see them face-to-face?

We get together every day as a team for a business update, sometimes it takes 30 minutes sometimes it takes 5. We use this time to celebrate wins, solve opportunities as they come or just joke around. I find during this time it’s important to stay connected and put your camera on! People want to see you! 

We instituted “Future Friday’s” early on where we talk about the future – either holiday 2020 or 2021. This allows us to focus on something other than the day to day that can feel overwhelming.  

How have you seen consumer habits change during this stay home time?

Customers are experimenting! They are looking for advice from friends, family, influencers, experts—anyone! They want to try new products since they have more time on their hands and they want to treat themselves to something that will make them feel better.

Julien Gommichon, President Americas, Diptyque & BYREDO

How do you envision the future of fragrance?

After a long period of low consumer confidence during the pandemic, focusing on essential and “panic” buying, customers (who still have the purchasing power) will go back to impulse buying of fragrance and home for themselves or gifting. New ways for testing and sampling need to be created to provide a unique experience while taking into account the new safety measures.

How do you keep your team motivated and on track when you can’t see them face-to-face?

We were also surprisingly happy to see a strong team moral week after week, with efficient technology (Zoom, Teams), daily connection on one to one or small team discussions. We implemented weekly social activity via Zoom (birthday celebration, bingo, toddler picture quiz) and weekly business updates for US and global, trying to be the most open and transparent as possible about the situation.

What is the most positive aspect you see coming out of this situation in terms of work?

Capacity of the team to work remotely and efficiently. We’ll review the work from home policy moving forward.

Mark Knitowski, VP Product Innovation, Victoria’s Secret

How have you seen consumer habits change during this stay home time?

Digital engagement—everything seems to be cashless, groceries delivered at home (through Amazon, Target, and Walmart).  Even people who may have been resistant to using or buying online now have no choice. They have had to get comfortable with it.   

Julianne Pruett, VP Fine Fragrance Sales, Symrise

How do you envision the future of fragrance? 

A share of fragrances will likely incorporate more value-added benefits, integrating cosmetic ingredients and skin-friendly textures, evolving fragrance into a “fragrance plus” category; something that Symrise has been predicting for years.

Jerry Vittoria, President Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich

How do you envision the future of fragrance?

Very bright! Fine Fragrance will always be a small indulgence and an escape for consumers. This will only be enhanced. Fragrances always bring a smile to all who use them. It’s a happy product needed now more than ever. We will create lots of new ways for consumers to enjoy fragrance, for themselves, for their families, for the home and to signal good hygiene and safety.

What is the biggest challenge you find with the new work from home reality? 

Schools being closed has been very challenging for many as they juggle home school with work.

You cannot smell fragrances via Zoom! So there are some logistical challenges. We have kept Fedex healthy!

What is the most positive aspect you see coming out of this situation in terms of work?

Crises bring out the best in most people. All the little things that we waste too much time on are forgotten and we all focus on what’s really important. I also think we will reinvent the role of live meetings in the future to be far more time efficient and effective and will only hold live meetings when absolutely necessary. This was a real wake up call for all of us in fragrance but I am convinced we will come out of it even stronger. The now accepted balancing of working between home and the office will raise motivation and productivity and lower commute costs, waste less time and less crowded rush hours leading to less pollution. Cities will become much more livable longer term. 

How have you seen consumer habits change during this stay home time?

Obviously staying at home has changed many behaviors. The question is what will stick once we are out and what will be forgotten? We will mostly go back to similar habits but there is no doubt that consumers will enjoy more than ever the freedom to be outside and away from crowds. They will also invest more in their homes to create their even more special place and fragrance will play a significant role in that.

Like everyone, Fragrance Foundation board members have been adjusting to working from home, and finding new ways to spend their free time while social distancing. Here, Accords asks them to reflect on the silver linings—from having more family time to learning to cook—that they have discovered in their time away from the office.  

Marc Blaison, EVP, Cosmo International Fragrances

In what ways have you benefited from staying home and slowing down? 

We were lucky in the sense that our offices and factory remained open. And living in Florida, you don’t feel the same “lockdown” effect: space, garden, weather … Other benefits were: having our 2 girls back home from college, so definitely family time, some cooking (could share some recipes), gardening, reading, and relaxing! 

Penny Coy, Vice President Merchandising, Fragrance and Prestige Skincare, Ulta Beauty

What shows are you currently binging?   

Tik Tok has taken over TV for me and my family!  OMG before you realize, a half hour, hour goes by.  And we are seeing sales climb unexpectedly because a product showed up organically on this channel. 

Diane Crecca, SVP, Arcade Beauty

What shows are you currently binging?

Ozark—THE BEST SHOW.  The writing was pure genius, it’s the on-the-edge-of your-seat stuff you cannot turn off.

In what ways have you benefited from staying home and slowing down?

My cooking has gone from practically inedible, to “not bad”. I even understand a few of the cooking shows, which I used to put in the same category as watching golf on TV. Good background noise for nap time!

What have you discovered about yourself that you didn’t know pre-quarantine?

I have discovered that I like to talk back to the TV. It’s great therapy and gives me satisfaction – so there!

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time?

One ritual I enjoy is watering my plants—I was known as the Grim Reaper of the plant word a year ago. I actually felt sorry for the plants I bought because they were headed for a slow torturous end. Now I can actually keep them alive and thriving!

Describe your ideal first day post-quarantine.

I am having a backyard barbeque—even if people have to wear snow boots. Nothing hits the spot like a grilled hot dog!

Maria Dempsey, CEO, Nest Fragrances

What shows are you currently binging?

Loving Nashville (we have watched over 60 episodes!), Normal People, Billions

In what ways have you benefited from staying home and slowing down?

I have been able to be more creative, to take time for myself and my family, to get back into cooking. I feel like I have a lot more time and am much more productive with my time.

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time?

I need to exercise and meditate every day in order to stay sane! 

Describe your ideal first day post-quarantine.

Meet up with friends, eat at a restaurant and ride the bus in NYC!

 Pierre Desaulles, CEO, Interparfums

What shows are you currently binging?

Money Heist on Netflix. Robbing a bank while being the good guy and being incredibly smart… Who does not want that? I watch only in Spanish—subtitles allowed—to get the savory and witty smell of Spain.

Also Versailles on Netflix. When history fascinates with romance, intrigues and spirits!

In what ways have you benefited from staying home and slowing down?

Unfortunately I did not slow down at all, quite the opposite. However I could share meals with my family and spend some quality time with them (even if it is sad to need this to make this statement).

What have you discovered about yourself that you didn’t know pre-quarantine?

That I play UNO well and I can actually handle multitasking.

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time?

Being down to earth and just opening my eyes to see how lucky I am. That is worth all the mental support in the world.

Describe your ideal first day post-quarantine.

I would love to do a Flashmob with my team in the office to Elton John’s I’m Still Standing! And then go back to my office routine that I love!

Nata Dvir, SVP/ General Business Manager at Macy’s – Beauty & Center Core

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time?

I try to schedule my day to allow for a run in the park in the morning or a virtual pilates class. I love that I now can build in a little me time during the day and be just as efficient. I find it helps me focus for the rest of the day.

I also try and shut down my computer and put it away and make a complicated dinner. I have cooked every meal for the last 8 weeks! It allows me to keep my hands occupied and away from the email.

Julien Gommichon, President Americas, Diptyque & BYREDO

What shows are you currently binging? 

Hollywood, Explained

What have you discovered about yourself that you didn’t know pre-quarantine?

Better control of stress and pressure, re prioritizing what is essential/less essential in life.

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time?

Bike riding out of home; playing games with kids in the evening (vs video and tablets).

Describe your ideal first day post-quarantine.

Reconnect with friends, colleagues and go to a French bistro!

Mark Knitowski, VP Product Innovation, Victoria’s Secret

In what ways have you benefited from staying home and slowing down?

Spending more time with my family, especially with my daughter, Sedona. We take hour-long evening walks each night, which has been great to hear her thoughts and ideas about so many things, fashion, beauty, influencers, apps, digital. Exercising, walking/running 5 miles a day.

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time? 

Playing guitar, writing songs,

Julianne Pruett, VP Fine Fragrance Sales, Symrise

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time? 

I am not sure what I would do without my daily running!  It has always been my “religion”, but even more so now, to clear my mind, take in nature, and feel physically and mentally FREE!

Jerry Vittoria, President Fine Fragrance Worldwide, Firmenich

What shows are you currently binging?

Handmaid’s Tale, just finished Ozark.

In what ways have you benefited from staying home and slowing down?

Wish I had slowed down! But not travelling has allowed me to spend more time with the family and have more actual dinners together!

What have you discovered about yourself that you didn’t know pre-quarantine?

I need reading glasses! Staring at the screen all day did that .I also enjoy snacking way too much. 

What routines or rituals keep you grounded and sane during this time?

Sleeping better due to less jet lag, eating healthier and more time to work out.

Describe your ideal first day post-quarantine.

In Paris, we had it…..I went to the office and air hugged several colleagues! I had missed them!

Just as executives and business leaders have needed to redesign their approach to matters both professional and personal in the past few months, so too have perfumers, the creative beating hearts of the industry. Separated from their labs and collaborators, noses have been compelled to find new ways to smell, create, and share ideas. In this month’s Q&A, they reveal how they have found inspiration, summoned calm, and discovered fresh ways of looking at the world in the midst of it all.

Mylene Alran, Givaudan

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

I recommend Ylang-Ylang oil and Neroli oil. Ylang-Ylang oil is mainly used for its calming and relaxing properties. You can inhale it, put it on the skin (mixed in a vegetal oil like sweet almond), in your bath or simply diffuse it in your home.

Then my favorite, Neroli, is relaxing too. It provides vitality, self-confidence and can calm anxiety and fear. To me it simply brings joy. I absolutely love composing with it because it’s a very rich raw material but also a delicate one. Working on its floral green and natural freshness is so interesting.

What do you use to help de-stress?

I would say, definitely yoga and meditation. They influence your perception of yourself which affects your outlook in a positive way: by loving yourself, being confident in your body, in your talent and by letting your good energies flow. I’ve practiced for many years now, and it has helped a lot while being at-home. Additionally, especially in winter, having a bath with essential oils is another helpful way to de-stress.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I think that this particular time has enabled collaborators to get closer and to increase the trust with their creative partners. That’s one of the good outcomes of this situation.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I find my inspiration in the same way as before. I can tell that nature and raw materials are my very first and greatest sources of inspiration.

 And beyond materials, is fashion. I’m always so excited to watch and admire new fashion shows―they’re immensely inspiring in discovering new fabrics and their unexpected textures. During the confinement, fashion houses have been very active on Instagram which has allowed me the opportunity to stay connected with my favorite ones!

Nicolas Beaulieu, IFF

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Spray your favorite fragrance on your wrist—it will allow you to keep smelling it throughout your day at home

What do you use to help de-stress? 

I have a sample of Sandalwood oil New Caledonia by LMR which I love smelling. Its deep woody creamy addiction is so comforting to me

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I feel very lucky that IFF put into place a new business process which allowed me to work almost as normal in the safe and quiet environment of my Parisian apartment. Of course this lockdown affected who I am, my priorities and therefore my inspirations, but the creative process remains the same.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I feel simple things hugely gained in importance during this weird period: cooking for your loved ones, the special odor of a book, or the reassuring smell of clean laundry or hand sanitizer!

Nathalie Benareau, Symrise

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home? 

Setting up a fragrance routine is an amazing way to put fragrance back into our lives and increase our wellbeing. I use fragrance first thing in the morning to wake up my senses and right before bed to unwind to something soft and comforting.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

I love the smell of Japanese incense in my home, I find it soft and comforting as well as relaxing. The sticks are very thin so the smoke is not overwhelming and it promotes a sense of calmness. Chamomile is also quite good for relaxation as well as clary sage which is ambery and smooth.

What do you use to help de-stress?

I do an hour of yoga every morning before my family wakes up, it sets my intention for the entire day and gives me the tools to avoid stress. If I need to de-stress during the day, I bake a cake, cookies or any type of dessert with my kids, when it starts baking in the oven, the house smells delicious which always makes me happy and relaxed!

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

Working from home made me much more adventurous and daring in my creative process, I overdose on some materials I wouldn’t otherwise. I cannot waste any time and do as many trials as I would if I were at the office so I need to trust my intuition more and be more fearless. Sometimes it smells great, sometimes it’s terrible!

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal? 

I read much more, I have many art books and photography books that I had forgotten about so it’s very inspiring to look back at those. I also take walks in my neighborhood and look much more closely at what is around me, I have been living in Jersey City for 20 years but it is the first time I take the time to really see it, it’s amazing what I have discovered. I love where I live and it’s a great source of inspiration. 

Gabriela Chelariu, Firmenich

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

A favorite ingredient of mine is Tonka Bean, it’s warm and can be used to create an atmosphere that brings a sense of calm and encourages relaxation and wellbeing. I always associate it with summer because of the notes of dried grass and hay (very happy and nostalgic smells for me).  Another ingredient that helps combat stress and anxiety and brings balance is Cedarwood Oil. 

What do you use to help de-stress?

In general any fragrance I love and wear daily helps me de-stress because it brings me joy and a sense of peace and can transport me to happier times. That said, listening to music is also essential for me and sometimes dancing, even if I have to do it on my own. 

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I have become focused on crafting fragrances that bring people happiness, optimism, and promote wellbeing. This is in line with a growing desire for clean fragrances with ingredients that have benefits that go beyond ‘just smelling good’. Along with that, sustainability is becoming even more essential in today’s global situation, and something that I keep top of mind while creating scents as well.  

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I draw inspiration from my time growing up in Romania where my grandmother helped me cultivate my knowledge and love of nature. My travels around the world and the new people and things I learn from simple everyday occurrences is also a source of inspiration. As life continues to evolve, I can’t help but watch the new narrative unfold, and it influences my work greatly.

Steven Claisse, Takasago

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home? 

This is a time to look at fragrance as an opportunity to play and explore. It’s about wearing or experiencing home fragrance for yourself and not necessarily for others. For example, a way to incorporate fragrance in this new normal could be taking all your fragrances, laying them out, mixing them, and layering them. Even going on Google and learning about them. The same goes for home fragrances; take 3 candles and burn them all at once. This allows for new experiences and a sense of play, which always feels more positive. Taking this time to really explore, just as we do in cooking new recipes. This is the time to be present and bring a sense of play into our olfactive experiences.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

The phrase “stop and smell the roses” can be applied to anything that gives you a sense of pause. I personally grow Wisteria in my garden and that makes me feel relaxed. Or smelling the pine trees in my backyard, also feels very calming. It is really about the little things we take for granted and now have the time to notice, smell and explore.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

For me, during these difficult times, de-stressing means taking my mind away from the negative and going back to the small gestures that bring me joy. Sitting in my backyard at night and smoking a cigar relaxes me. It’s about creating the space to do something that brings happiness into the present moment.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation? 

Time is a luxury we now have because most of us are working from home. This has allowed me to have more time to think in new ways, try new things, new combinations of ingredients, even see olfactive experiences from a completely new perspective. I am taking this as an opportunity to broaden my horizons of creativity. 

Natasha Côté, IFF

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

My favorite way of incorporating fragrance while at home is by burning a candle, using my favorite shampoo, body lotion and even a fabric softener.  I’ve been having a lot of fun experimenting with different hand soaps. 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Chamomile oil, Peppermint Oil, Spearmint Oil and Bergamot Oil are great for calm and relaxation. 

What do you use to help de-stress? 

I adore peppermint oil because it allows me to breathe better and clears my mind, or Neroli because it reminds me of being on vacation near the Mediterranean. Lastly the comforting smell of musk makes me feel peaceful and at ease.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I’m not quite sure. I will need to see what happens when we are released back into the world.  I would like to see things slow down a bit. The speed at which we were operating before, I believe, is unsustainable. 

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I’m turning within. I have more time to do yoga, cycling, reading, cooking new recipes and spending more time with my family. I feel more grounded and this allows me to relax and let the inspiration flow in a very natural way.

Jerome Di Marino, Takasago

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

At Takasago we do have specific studies regarding the effect of the smells on the brain. That’s how we can say that there is a proven relaxing effect on the brain when smelling Caraway, Olibanum, Sage or Sandalwood. 

What do you use to help de-stress? 

At home I love to burn incense, sage or Laurel leaves which helps me to create a non-stressing environment.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation? 

Creating fragrances requires time and patience, and as I work from home, I have less meetings, phone calls…which allows me to focus on the essential: smelling and working on new ideas.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

In the “new normal” I find inspiration in taste associations. I discover by cooking and baking at home. It’s the perfect moment to experiment and try out new recipes.

Jerome Epinette, Robertet

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

It’s important to try not to lose the habit! It is the same as getting dressed every morning, use fragrance and keep the routine going and it will help you feel better and will put you in a good mood. In my house, we’ve been burning more candles and using reed diffusers to create our own olfactive world. 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

For me, vanilla and tonka bean are very soothing and cocooning. I also love blond woods like cedarwood and sandalwood. Even iso e super is really calming. Frankincense can be very relaxing for its Zen-like effect.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

I am very fortunate to have a terrace. So being outside surrounded by plants like gardenia and jasmine help me de-stress. Gardening and watering plants is very relaxing.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

The current global situation is reinforcing the fact that we need to be more careful, more sustainable and respectful of nature.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal? 

I am still finding inspiration everyday living and working in New York City. I can still feel the rhythm and connectedness of the New York I’ve lived in for years. The local community has been so supportive and I find this to be so inspiring.  

John Gamba, Givaudan

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

People can incorporate fragrance into their at-home routines in an assortment of ways, by spraying different fragrances into each room to create the right mood or wearing a variety of scents at various times throughout the day―try a fresh, light scent in the morning, something green or floral in the afternoon and a more sophisticated scent like a woody amber in the evening.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

I like tea (especially green or chamomile) and vanilla for relaxation.

What do you use to help de-stress?

A little Eucalyptus Tea or Eucalyptus Mint will do the trick while sipping a nice Pinot Noir.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I’ve been appreciating the smell of the outdoors. Working in the garden now is an olfactive delight, you get to experience and take in your surroundings in a different way. I’m trying to make the most out of these new opportunities. 

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

Since we are all quarantined I spend a lot of time online. There are so many virtual tours of places I have never been. Music is also inspirational while taking long walks and stepping back to smell the roses…

Pascal Gaurin, IFF

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

I have several fragrance diffusers set up in my house and it allows me to evaluate the fragrance I’m currently working on. It is a great way to change the mood inside your home. I think wearing your favorite fragrance or discovering new ones, even if you do not go outside, is still very important to lift your spirit.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

As a person who is easily affected by anxiety, I have learned over the years that the best way to keep stress in check is to establish a very strict and healthy routine. It allows me to stay focused, calm and productive while keeping those around me sane. Stress and creativity are rarely compatible.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I always try to find the positive even in the most negative situation. Extreme situations push you to get out of your comfort zone and discover territories you would not have necessarily thought about or had the time to explore.

As a creator I am mostly inspired by people around me. As good as communication via screen can be, you are still missing some emotions that only the subtlety of body language can deliver. The current situation has forced me to reevaluate the way I am interacting with those I care for and connect with an emotional level.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

Inspiration is all around us if you care to look for it.

Today, first responders are probably the most inspirational people you can think of. Reading biographies of artists I admire also helps me understand their creative process and how they manage to find solutions when faced with challenges. I am currently reading the biography of Ridley Scott. Steve Lukather’s biography will follow.

Gwen Gonzalez, Givaudan

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Notes of jasmine, neroli and cypress are very useful for relieving anxiety and inducing relaxation. Cedarwood, sandalwood and litsea cubeba are beneficial for promoting calm. I also find vetiver and patchouli very grounding and balancing.

What do you use to help de-stress?

The peaceful aroma of Palo Santo is a favorite of mine; it’s very de-stressing for me. I burn the wood to fill a room or wear the essential oil combined in a fragrance. I also use a diffuser with sound and scent which is not only de-stressing but also helps me sleep and gently wakes me up.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

On a larger scale, the ingenuity, kindness and sacrifice I see emerging all over the world is truly inspiring. On a smaller scale, I’m finding inspiration and comfort in cooking. Whether I’m following a proper recipe or improvising on the spot, I have the time now to really experiment with spices I’ve discovered while traveling. Creating flavors both foreign and familiar—reviving happy memories of different times and places. I’m making much bolder alterations on recipes, simplifying a technique or perfecting a family classic like my mom’s creole gumbo recipe.

Alexis Grugeon, Firmenich

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Fragrance can be a key way to maintain a sense of normality in your daily life (especially during these uncertain times). Maintaining the habit of perfuming yourself every day, or of lighting a favorite candle is a great way to enhance and create an “at home routine”, by surround yourself with your favorite scents. It’s also a great moment to explore new ambient scents and match them with your current mood or activity as well!

What do you use to help de-stress? 

Taking a break from the news, and focusing on my work and wellbeing has been very helpful. I feel very lucky to be able to do what I love, and to help people find balance and happiness in their own lives as well through the power of scent!

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

My notion of time being extremely valuable has enhanced my appreciation for how I spend it during this pandemic. It’s been nice to take the time I need to think, explore and create; it’s helped make me more innovative and efficient. Right now I am able to really focus and dive deep into each project I’m working on. 

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

My network of inspiration has definitely changed. Whereas before it was very much based on social interactions and exploring New York City, it’s now shifted to be about personal experimentation and intellectual exploration.

Richard Herpin, MANE

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Right now we need scents for comfort, for remembering good times and escaping.  Also, working from home may give people freedom to wear scents that they don’t allow themselves to wear as often as they might like.  I hope people are taking advantage of this time to wear whatever makes them feel good—and I don’t just mean pajamas! 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Aromatherapy is part physiology and part Pavlov:  what do you personally associate with an aroma. Any fragrance that makes you feel calm–it can be incense, patchouli, it can be something far from obvious and intensely personal. 

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation? 

This is a time for simple gestures of kindness, for caring for your loved ones. Being able to enjoy and be grateful now puts me in the right frame of mind. I’m having vivid dreams and memories of the past, so I can dig deeper.  In my work, I’m focusing on what is essential.  I find myself writing shorter, simpler formulas.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I try to focus on some positive things that are happening in the middle of difficult things. The city is quiet; the air is clean; around the world, the environment shows signs of healing. Here in America, you always feel that something new is coming, the way America has reinvented itself, again and again— we’ve all had to adapt, we will continue to adapt. I choose to embrace positive, feel-good fragrances.

Jacques Huclier, Givaudan

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

With limited social interaction, it’s important to continue to wear our favorite fragrances. They keep us grounded and give us pleasure. 

Staying home also gives us more time for rediscovering smells: fruits on the table, spices in the kitchen, flowers on our balconies, books in the bookcase…everything has a smell, let’s take this time to play and enjoy them!

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender? 

Personally, the smells of vanilla, chocolate and caramel bring me a sense of calmness and relaxation. They are warm and comforting, and remind me of my childhood when my mother made delicious pastries on Sunday mornings.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

My best remedy to de-stress is to open the window, smell the fresh air or to jump outside and breathe in the plants and flowers―with all the components their smells are so rich and reconnect me to nature, to reality.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation? 

My creative process has definitely changed. I take more time in the exploration of my ideas, looking for the right balance or the best contrast solely from my experience and memory. I’ve also been finding inspiration in several ways: reading, watching documentaries, trying new things and exchanging points of view with friends.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

In closing my eyes, dreaming about a better world with new smells for happiness and optimism. Thinking about the world I will rediscover soon, I imagine what we would like to smell next…imagination is key!

Christelle Laprade, Symrise

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

I love to spray something fresh on my pillow from time to time. Planting is also a nice way to incorporate scents into our lives in the most natural way, basil, rosemary, thyme, lavender, spearmint can bring the outdoors in.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?   

For me Sandalwood transports me to a calming place. Its subtle creamy milky woody tones give me a feeling of cocooning.

What do you use to help de-stress?  

I try to exercise every other day to help me calm down. Being able to work and continue to create is also essential in preserving my sanity.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I want my fragrances to be even more transporting as we are all stuck indoors. I also made a promise to myself to travel more when we are able to again and get inspired by all the beautiful things the world has to offer.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal? 

In my dreams 🙂  

Maïa Lernout, Takasago

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

For my home I like to burn dried leaves of white sage. It purifies the air. Shaman and yogi used it to clarify the mind and remove negative thoughts. 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Sweet orange essential oil is also well known to calm down the mind and bring comfort. If you don’t have it at home, you can just squeeze some fruit peels and put the drops of oil inside your wrist. This point in Chinese medicine is called the serenity’s door. It is the point on the same line as the little finger below the wrist fold. If you activate this point, it can bring joy and soothe fears or anxiety.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

I practice yoga and meditation almost every day, I read a lot and I like to paint watercolors.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I am often looking to my childhood memories to find inspiration or connect to peaceful or joyful moments I am trying to share through my creation. Books or people could also inspire me to create some ideas.

 Domitille Michalon-Bertier, IFF

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

There are so many different ways to bring scent into your home: soap for your hands, laundry detergent to wash your fabric and liquid soap for your dishes, candles, a powder spray in the vacuum cleaner, foam bath in your bathroom, and most importantly, your fine fragrance, like a comforting blankie, or with its extension line products: body lotion, hair spray… You can also scent your sweaters with your fragrance before putting them away in your closet. 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

I connect orange flower to relaxation and calm, a reassuring childhood memory, with 3 drops in hot water. Cedarwood is equally reassuring, as sturdy as a tree. I associate lavender with the cleanliness of laundry, a reminiscence from a laundry room with a cupboard full of clean linen sheets and a lavender sachet in a corner.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

Breathing is an essential part of life. Every single morning, all year long, I open wide all my apartment windows, and bring in the fresh wind, which sometimes even slams the doors shut. And when stress rises, I try a few calm and long breaths while facing the sun.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I’ve been able to take time to think, and don’t need to respond to everything in the minute. Preserving my secret garden is of utmost importance to me, in French we say: “pour vivre heureux, vivons caches,” translated roughly as “to live happy, live in hiding”! In my creative thinking, I like to diverge, and use very diverse idea associations, then converge and bring it all together after the night’s dreams.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

My inspiration always comes from daily life: cooking, art shows, books, films, travels and my own memories. I’m also very inspired by my interactions with others, and my children. A project, a customer brief, is also of great inspiration for me.

Alexandra Monet, Firmenich

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Fragrance can help people to feel better in many ways. Smelling a fragrance that someone you love wears (and you’ve not seen for a while) can generate a strong emotion, making you feel closer to this person. Perfumes have an ability to transport you, without having to travel anywhere! 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Wearing or smelling a fragrance that you were using during a particularly happy period of your life can help aid in feelings of relaxation and calmness.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

For me, undertones of musk help me de-stress because they are very comforting, warm and reassuring.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

Creating fragrance is about tapping into emotions. I try to experiment with the emotion of empathy as much as I can, and to try to imagine what scent and ingredients profile would make a person feel joy, security and accomplishment.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal? 

Currently, my memories serve as the best source of inspiration for me. I like to think of pleasant and happy times I’ve had throughout my life, and the scent that accompanies those moments, to translate them into a fragrance.  

Pierre Negrin, Firmenich

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

To me, relaxation comes from ingredients that help to soothe you, they are soft, warm and creamy notes. Any scent that brings you back to your childhood and reminds you of pleasant memories helps to relax your soul.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

I tend to cook a lot, as it helps me explore flavorful raw ingredients and new combinations of spices, aromatic herbs and fruits.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

Due to social distancing, I think people are trending in the direction of wanting and needing more powerful fragrances to help them overcome certain strong emotions in an uncertain climate. This shift will change the structure of my fragrances greatly, by using more potent ingredients in smaller quantities.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

A lot of my inspiration stems from my imagination. I tend to daydream and think about ways of unearthing new ingredients that have psychological benefits of wellbeing in order to present a fragrance that is more than just a beautiful scent. Moving forward, we will need fragrances that lend themselves to the notion of cleansing, sanitizing, protecting, and relaxing to help increase people’s sense of security.

Kaleigh Prokop, MANE

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Staying home means having more opportunities to enjoy all the options for home fragrancing.  Whether it’s lighting a beautiful candle, using plug-in systems, diffusers, fragrance reeds, incense, there are so many choices. Take the time now to use your most indulgent body lotion, your favorite shampoo, all those bath products and bath salts and bubble bath that live in the linen closet.  

What do you use to help de-stress? 

Memory scents are comforting for me. The smell of Ivory dish soap and Chanel No. 5 reminds me of walking into my grandmother’s kitchen. The smell of sunscreen and Avon Skin-So-Soft reminds me of childhood summers; Bath & Body Works has a candle called The Perfect Summer that really captures a moment like this.  Cooking for me has really been a great de-stressor. . .there’s nothing less stressful than the smell of sizzling sausage and peppers!

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation? 

I’m more in my own head now:  you have to rely on imagination and memory, and find inspiration from within. As a perfumer, when you are formulating you usually have an idea of what your creation will smell like, but now I have to wait for the lab to send it to me. It’s not as immediate, and sometimes there’s a real surprise. I’m dosing ingredients differently, and coming up with some cool new directions.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I’ve always gotten a lot of inspiration from market products, restaurants, bars and fashion. That has all gone away for the moment, so I’ve shifted my focus to more simple ways to create. I have been cooking almost non-stop, I’m painting watercolors, and sewing. I have been taking baths with different products to try and relax. Reading has always been a place to go to and I am noticing now, more than ever, the way that scent is described in books and how it supports the story.  I’m inspired by whatever brings me joy, peace, and escape. For me, that’s summer days, the beach, easy clean floral scents that remind me of vacations I’ve spent with friends and family. Trying to recreate scents from those memories has been very helpful.

Erwan Raguenes, Firmenich

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Candles are a fantastic way to experience consistent fragrance notes throughout your home. Burning destination scented candles in different rooms can help you transition from one mood or atmosphere into another. It’s a new way to ‘travel’ while staying safe at home. 

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

I find that Chamomile and Jasmine are extremely relaxing scents…they are warm, and have the ability to soothe.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

Personally, I am partial to burning Sandalwood candles to create a warm, woody, creamy and comforting space. Likewise, Vanilla and Sandalwood notes are a lush combination that wrap around you like a cozy blanket.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I find that currently it’s less about ‘pushing the boundaries’ or experimenting, and more about creating a sense of nostalgia, content and reassurance in the fragrances I craft. Gourmand scents need to be more sentimental, while fruity and citrus notes need to be brighter and bolder than ever before.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

I’ve been researching old recipes, and watching the food creations people have been cooking and showcasing on social media. Additionally, I have been digging up past references, accords and trends that I can tweak and modernized to fit the new needs of people globally.

Donna Ramanauskas, Robertet

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

People can take this time to focus on the fragrances that are present in their homes. Whether it’s starting your day with an invigorating scented body wash or lighting a gourmand scented candle while in your home office, it’s a reminder of the role that scent can play in uplifting our moods on a daily basis.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Being a fanatic for any fragrance that lends itself to rose notes, I find rose absolute to be extremely calming.

What do you use to help de-stress?

During these chaotic times, I find myself reaching for fragrances that transport me to the holidays (even though it’s spring). The holiday season always has a way of lifting my spirits, so recently I have been burning a lot of fir balsam candles. 

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

Due to the current situation, the freedom we once had to interact and brainstorm with colleagues face to face has unfortunately changed. However, that has not altered our passion for what we do. If anything, it has been a reminder of how important fragrance is across all applications. 

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

My family recently started our own garden (which is a trend I think many are taking part in). I am looking forward to having a variety of herbs and vegetables at our fingertips and getting to experience the fresh aromas that accompany each individual plant.

 Catherine Selig, Takasago

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home? 

People can incorporate fragrances into their daily routine in a holistic way which can serve to stimulate their olfactive senses and elevate their mood. Simply spraying a little fragrance on your hand before or after a meal, on yourself after a bath or even just lighting a scented candle before meditation can go a long way to stimulate your senses and put you into a better frame of mind.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Personally, I really like rose because it promotes focus and helps you become more grounded.  Rose can also serve as a vehicle to connect you to the earth.  I also like citrus bright energy because I always found it helps clear your mind and enables you to be present in the moment.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation? 

I start my work early, no later than 7.30am.  Starting early enables me to have the time to let my creativity flow at his own pace without being pressured by a timeline. 

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

Mostly by being more in tune with the nature around me, staying focused on the essential, unlocking my imagination during my meditation sessions and by experimenting new cooking recipes.

 Florie Tanquerel, Cosmo International Fragrances

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

It is a good time to take care of ourselves so why not recreate a body care routine which can help bring escapism at home.. as we can’t travel! for example using a shower gel with a fruity exotic fragrance with a blend of mango and coconut which can refer to India, or a body butter with a fresh and energizing aromatic note from a spa in Bali !

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

I would say the chamomile which is for me very relaxing with its sweet herbal note. And the orange flower that I love because it reminds me the south of France (my birthplace)  for its delicate floral orangey and honey scents.

What do you use to help de-stress? 

In my case, to destress I can use a special incense coming from India in with notes of olibanum, cashmere wood and sensual musk! And it gives me a peaceful mindset during my yoga practice and meditation!

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I would say, now more than ever I bring more pride, happiness, positivity and love in my creations.

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal?

Social media, especially Instagram, is a tool that I use for creativity and to get connected globally. You can always get inspired with beautiful pictures from places, food and people from all around the world.  For now, I would say that I am obsessed with watching the posts from a famous French woman chef Anne Sophie Pic (3 Michelin stars). She gives me ideas and inspirations to pair ingredients from her cooking i.e a pie with rhubarb and tarragon,  a fresh mango with a confit jasmine ice cream, and succulent dessert with coffee, passion fruit, topped with ginger and black pepper!

Carlos J. Viñals, Symrise

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

Starting the day with your go-to fragrance and then following at night with a new special occasion fragrance even though the occasion is watching Netflix again is important and can spark newness into each day.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?   

Ingredients that can promote calm for most are known to be lavender, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Incense etc. I believe notes that can bring you to your comfort zone these days can simply be smells from the home like coffee brewing, dinner cooking, pastries in the oven and candles burning. There’s no place like home!

What do you use to help de-stress?  

Well I won’t lie that it’s too easy to turn to another glass of wine to de-stress and I’m sure most are feeling the same. I really try to focus on a daily balance of work, hard exercise, walking the dogs and the most important is “PIM”, popcorn ice cream and a movie with the wife.

How has or will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

While my creative process hasn’t changed that much these days because I use my experience to approach each development the same.  

Where are you finding your inspiration in the new normal? 

My inspirations have changed since they are not live because I’m so isolated so the best source is….wait for it….internet!  Yes I admit it’s the most powerful resource tool and since I can’t go out the world comes to me.

Illustration by: Rebecca Moses @rebeccamosesofficial

We are proud to publish this special edition of Accords, which offered TFF members the opportunity to share both professional and personal stay home experiences and inspiration. We will continue to ask for your input so that TFF communication continues its two way dialogue.

On a personal note, I too have made some self discoveries. AM is coffee time and PM is wine time. I can actually enjoy cooking chez nous with my husband and secure a table without a reservation. I have read books that would normally be stacked to pack on vacation and have watched meaningful films and television shows, counterbalanced by Schitt’s Creek. Fragrance has personally been my guiding light. Personal fragrances bring major joy and differentiate the days and evenings. Soaps, essential oils, and lotions, enhance all cleansing routines and every day cooking ingredients are the backdrop for candles and diffusers. 

The contributors to this special edition of Accords prove that we are truly a united community. While we are confined in ways we never would want to be, we have become more self aware and inspired, which will hopefully benefit us in the long term. The positive outcome of this extraordinarily difficult time will be how we emerge more resilient, better connected to all of the people in our lives and have clarity on the priorities that will guide us forward.

Please share your feedback on this issue and your interest in future content. We want to stay connected in scent and spirit with you all!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

When Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy first encountered internationally renowned designer and artist Rebecca Moses, it was a meeting of scent-loving spirits and like minds. On a studio tour, Levy saw illustrations that Moses had done inspired by the island of Capri—particularly by its enchanting Mediterranean scents—and a grand idea was hatched: that Moses would bring her whimsy and exuberant talent to International Fragrance Day 2020 by creating a series of artworks depicting seven different aromatic profiles as highly individual (and fashionable) women. These enchanting images were unveiled at the Italian Trade Commission in February and will continue to bring color and delight to Fragrance Foundation events and communications, even as the year unfolds quite differently from what anyone had planned.

Moses’s response to the pandemic has been, beautifully, expressed through her artwork: She has created a new series of illustrations she calls The Stay Home Girls, each devoted to how a different woman is coping with the crisis, or finding bright moments where she can. Posted daily on Instagram, the works have galvanized a support system, opening up a network for women all over the world to share their stories and bond together in commiseration and in hope. Here, Moses talks about the power of art, her journey with fragrance, and the importance of putting good energy into the world—now, and always.  

What sparked the idea for the Stay Home Girls?

When the pandemic hit, most of my projects came to an end — they were canceled or put on a back burner, and I didn’t know what the future was. So, I had to create a project. I felt extraordinarily helpless not doing anything. I wanted to help people. I started creating these women, just sort of around the stories I was hearing. Some friends were reflecting on why they still bothered to put makeup on in the morning, others decided they would foster a dog, another said they started playing cards. After a certain point I had done about 30 creative ones that weren’t far from the truth, but they weren’t specific people. Then one night I was on the phone with a girlfriend of mine who is a brilliant lawyer and works for the state, and she told me about being home every day doing these Zoom conferences with five cats around her, and I just thought—this is a real story, I need to make these real stories. I started reaching out to a few people, and then it was like wildfire. I started getting letters and letters. Some of them are really heart-breaking. I go on video every couple of days to talk to the girls and tell them how remarkable they are, and they’ve kind of become a support group for each other. It just keeps growing. Now I paint all day long. I try to do four paintings a day. It’s a marathon. I’ve done 65 so far, and I just want to keep doing it.

Why do you think the Stay Home Girls have resonated so much?

It doesn’t really matter what we do, what our social status is, what our income is, what our ethnicity is, where we live, this is a global pandemic. It affects everyone. We’re all at a common crossroads. And I think that women want to relate to other women and hear what’s going on in their lives. Sometimes thinking about someone else’s problems makes your problems not look so serious. It can give you comfort. And even if it’s through social media – it gives you immediate comfort.

What has it meant to you personally?

If it can make a difference in one person’s life, then I’ve fulfilled my mission. It makes women feel proud to be illustrated, they love to be shared, there’s a common denominator that’s in all of us, and we all need hope. It’s been probably one of the most awesome things I’ve ever done. It gives me oxygen every day. It gives me hope. I think our lives will never be the same after this, but that doesn’t mean they won’t be better.

Let’s talk about how you shifted away from being a fashion designer. When did you begin to focus more on art?

After living in New York and getting the crazy idea of starting my own business, I fell in love, and I moved to Italy in 1992. I became the creative director of Gruppo Genny, which was a big deal for me, being young and American. But later, after I lost my husband, I decided to move back to New York, because it was so painful living there without him. When I got to New York, I started to do a lot more in the arts and with illustration, working with Italian Vogue and Marie Claire. All of a sudden, my life changed. Sometimes you don’t know what your road will be, but you just go with it.

How would you describe your illustration style?

I like to animate women. I like to make them larger than life. I like them to have personality and an attitude. It’s not about beauty in traditional terms. I did a big exhibition in 2016 called Imperfectly Perfect. The whole concept was that beauty today is so different from beauty of 10 years ago, and definitely from the beauty ideas that I was raised with. You can be so unconventional in your look, and in the way you express yourself. We all have things about us that are unique, some call it an oddity, some call it an imperfection. But to me those are the strengths that define us. Whether it’s the way we talk with our hands, whether it’s a certain look in the eye, whether it’s our approach to things. That’s what I like to communicate in the women that I create. It’s about telling a story through one woman, and I think being able to do that is so important. If I had to advise young creators, I’d tell them what they really need to do is master the art of storytelling.

You accomplished that so beautifully in your work for the Fragrance Foundation for Fragrance Day. 

Yes, it was a really natural project for me. The idea was to tell a story about something so important in the fragrance industry — the concept of what notes are. How do we illuminate what they are, how do we celebrate them, how do we show an emotion in each one?

What was your starting point for each one?

When Linda gave me this fabulous project, I thought, ‘oh, this is so much fun!’, I began to think about how there are profiles to people who choose certain notes. It’s all about how you express yourself. The first one I did was Floral [Click here to see all the Fragrance Day Artwork]. I wanted to make her the most regal woman in town, like she really did just come out of Versailles. I imagined music carrying her along in her beautiful rose skirt, and her crown of tuberose. Then, when I thought about Sweet notes, I saw cotton candy and vanilla and caramel, and I thought about someone who liked to have a good laugh. Someone who could wear a coconut bra, and really embrace a joke. Woody is very sophisticated. She’s savvy and she takes herself pretty seriously. To me, patchouli and amber are very seductive notes, so I saw her as someone a bit mysterious. Spicy has a zip to her — she’s not intimidated by anything. She has no trouble being feisty, and kind of kooky. Citrus has a cleanness and a brightness about her, a zest, and I did twins for fruit because I wanted them to be comical and vivacious. Lastly, for Fresh, I wanted somebody who was really celebrating life. Someone who could just be effortless. When you smell something fresh it takes away the tension. Think about the smell of basil and the sea and green notes. Isn’t there something that just makes you want to breathe in and sigh?

How did you approach the animations?

It was just about taking the girls and setting them to music and bringing them to life. It was so much fun! To see Fresh with the turtles swimming around her ankles, and Citrus with her lemons dancing. We wanted to add a little bit of something that would give you even more insight to who this lady is. But I think what’s unique about what we’re doing is that we’re bringing together fashion, beauty, style, fragrance, music, and color — all of these different forms of expression — to celebrate a note.

What do you want people to get from your work?

I like to make people smile. The feel-good factor is very important to me. I think that we all have a responsibility to put good energy into the world. We all have a responsibility to be kind to each other. And if I can use the gifts that I have to lift people out of their troubles, then I’ve done my job.

How does it feel to be such a big part of the Fragrance Foundation’s mission to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance?

I think that Linda is very visionary. She realizes that in order to move the fragrance industry forward, we need to tell stories and bring more art forms into the fragrance world. It’s a huge thing to help people understand that there’s a true art form here, and to celebrate and share information and educate the consumer. I feel so honored to be a part of it.

As this challenging time continues, we at The Fragrance Foundation are focused on what we can do for our community as a team, and as individuals. Our collaboration for many months with the extraordinary artist and designer Rebecca Moses resulted in a magnificent campaign, focused on 7 ingredient ladies for Fragrance Day on March 21. For TFF and all of us in March, we took a sharp turn away from our big dreams and immediately created an alternative “Plan B.”  Fragrance Day will be back next year when we can all celebrate together around the globe.

As for Rebecca Moses, she has once again put her heart, soul, and extraordinary creativity into a new and unexpected creation. Rebecca has authored all on her own in her studio home, a social media campaign filled with exceptional beauty and content named “The Stay Home Girls.” The self-written stories of girls staying home around the globe are being sent to Rebecca directly and the results are phenomenal. Each girl’s portrait by Rebecca captures their essence in their homes. Please visit @rebeccamosesofficial and join this movement. I am honored and proud to be included [View Illustration Here], as well as these girls on our TFF team, Alissar, Sharne, April Long, our editor and TFF member Shalini, so far.

We are also proud that so many in our fragrance world and related industries are contributing aid and support in so many ways: production of sanitizers, masks, hospital equipment, medical supplies, food and financial donations on a global and local basis. There is a tremendous amount being done and even more to do, so to recognize and applaud all of these tremendous efforts, we have created #TFFCommunityDoingGood in our social media with ongoing communication of these valiant efforts.

We also pivoted our communication to focus our TFF social media on the benefits of fragrance as we work from home and stay home. Much of the population considered home fragrance and personal fragrances a pure luxury, and at times it may be. However, now we find our family, friends and even ourselves wanting to enjoy every moment at home with our sense of smell a source of comfort and enjoyment. Follow us @fragrancefoundation.

As stores are closed, most launches and planned events are postponed, or converted into virtual experiences, our industry is recalibrating the business. We need to reinvent all we do and take advantage of this time to think creatively how to re-enter the world which will have a new “normal.” Flexibility, agility and strategic decision making have reached a new level for all in our new daily routines. Our consideration and sensitivity to this global health crisis for all must be in the balance too.

Together we must join forces and use our resources to plan how we will engage the newly defined consumer. The time we have now is like no other time before, so education of our teams and spreading positivity daily is key to our current status and our future.

I used to have a saying: “Be comfortable being uncomfortable.” Now I think it best to find the place you can be the most comfortable possible, and be sure that every day you appreciate those in your life and spread positivity. Although we are all challenged, together we will emerge stronger, more resilient and hopefully better than we were before.

FRANK VOELKL, FIRMENICH

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

I very much enjoy wearing fragrance while I’m at home; I think it can be a positive and comforting experience for anyone. It’s actually easier to apply a fragrance than to get dressed for the day. Candles and room sprays and any other form of home fragrances also enhance the experience of being confined, allowing us to be carried away or to travel through scent. It is certainly one effect that fragrance can have on us: to escape and be transported to a different place or next to a certain person.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

Beyond lavender there are other ingredients known to make you feel grounded and give you inner peace and balance, like sandalwood or vetiver, for example. Personally, I have always been intrigued by the duality of musk, with its clean connotation, as well as its warm, sensual aspect, which could be a good combination these days.

What home products do you use to help de-stress?

There are a couple of candles that I have developed for brands like Le Labo, Otherland, Bath and Body Works, Aerin Lauder or Boy Smells, for example, that I like to use in my home, and there are, of course, always those that I’m currently working on that you will be able to discover in the near future. They all take me to special places and help me think of a bright and hopeful future.

How will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I have always been fascinated by Virtual Perfumery. Working remotely means that I cannot smell every fragrance I create myself or sometimes only with a long delay. Being in this situation as a perfumer means that your way of thinking shifts; you sometimes formulate in a more daring way, and sometimes actually, less. No matter what, we all have an opportunity to create fragrance in an unprecedented way with unprecedented results.  

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I particularly like to work with woods. For me, woods create a link to nature, and often add an organic effect in a fragrance. I use woods as an anchor in my creations.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

Mostly, it’s a pleasant surprise and quite rewarding.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

This is an exact quote that I recently received from a woman:

“The perfume is wonderful. It is the only scent I have ever found addictive. You know the feeling of getting ready for a situation where you know you are going to get laid? It gives me that feeling.”

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

I think that would have to be the smell of my loved ones. 

Favorite non-perfume smell?

I love the smell of a forest, and I love how it changes in different seasons throughout the year.

Another favorite smell is the ocean; I love being able to smell the ocean before even seeing it.

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be?

It would be the ability to read people’s minds.

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be?

Comfort.

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be?

A fragrance you wear is first of all a choice you make for yourself and your own wellbeing, and for your own comfort.

NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO, GIVAUDAN

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

If you already wear perfume for your own pleasure, there is nothing to change in your daily routine, but it may be an opportunity to try new perfumes or alternate fragrances to give another tone to your day.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

The essences of cistus, eucalyptus, frankincense, neroli and pine, for example, are known for their relaxing properties.

What home products do you use to help de-stress?

I spray ginger essence in my living room and neroli essence on my pillow when I go to bed. I also use a diffuser (exclusive to Givaudan, Phytogaïa) which reproduces the beneficial stress-relieving effects of a Japanese forest.

How will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

I work on ideas proactively and imagine accords on clean olfactory territories and new naturalnesses, then try to transform them into smell (the first breath of fresh air in the morning in the countryside, the wind in the birch trees…)

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I really like tonka bean for its warm, sensual notes and gourmand edge.  I’ve used it in large quantities in the oriental accords of Burberry Brit. Then there’s jasmine absolute from Egypt, a smell from my childhood that I used in Blond Jasmine by Carolina Herrera. It’s truly difficult to choose because every ingredient has its own magic.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created? 

It’s so nice to witness someone wearing a fragrance I’ve created; it inspires an immediate connection and understanding for the other person, even when they’re a stranger to you. 

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on? 

An instinctive laugh after smelling a hazelnut accord I created. It’s a very beautiful memory!

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

That’s a sad question because it would be the end of the world of perfume.

Favorite non-perfume smell?

Fresh grated lemon peel.

Favorite meal? 

Zucchini flower fritters made by my mother.

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do? 

I’ve always wanted to learn how to play the cello, draw, speak Arabic and so many other things…

Do you have a secret talent? 

I’m still searching for one…

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be? 

Escape. Perfume can cause you to teleport mentally and geographically.

JEAN-MARC CHAILLAN, IFF

How can people incorporate fragrance into their routine when staying home?

When staying at home, I like to use eau de cologne or something very light, citrusy and fresh, especially during spring or summer. It is refreshing and gives me energy! I also enjoy candles to create a different kind of ambiance.

What are some ingredients used to promote calm and relaxation, other than the most talked about ones like lavender?

We do have a tool at IFF that measures moods which tells us that musk and vanilla along with lavender are ingredients that could bring relaxation. But more recently, IFF launched our revolutionary approach to the aromatherapy segment with the Brain Emotions™ Natural Collection where we have eight scientifically measured emotional and cognitive effects that have been associated with our natural oils. For example: Immortelle Oil was associated with brain areas involved with energy, our Vanilla Bean Co2 Extract was associated with brain areas around happiness, and our LMR Myrrh oil from Eastern Africa was associated with several brain areas involved in mindfulness. 

What home products do you use to help de-stress?

To help de-stress, I use a candle with patchouli! But this is personal to me, a favorite scent of mine. Any smell that I love or that will remind me of positive memories and experiences will help me de-stress. 

How will your creative process change due to the current global situation?

My creative process won’t change per se because I can create formulas wherever I am and I’m still just as fascinated with the world around me as ever. I have had to think more about our process of sampling and smelling and reworking fragrances and this is where we may have to be more creative with how, where, and when the formulas are safely compounded, sent to evaluation and myself for reworks, then smelling together virtually over a screen. I think that there could be a shift towards a more collectively conscious process of working, but everything is possible and we are doing it!

What are a few of your favorites notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance? 

Patchouli is one of my most loved ingredients with which to work. I use it when I can because it is multifaceted and even if it is “Vieux comme la Terre” (translation: old as the Earth) it always brings newness and creative opportunities. I usually start with it and build around it to see where it will take me. However, beyond singular ingredients, the Oriental fragrance family is the one I am enjoying working around the most. I love texture, richness, sensuality, and mystery which this family embraces. I love that it reflects darkness, lightness, freshness and warmth through its layers of intricate interlacing.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

When I come across someone who is wearing a fragrance I have created, it makes me incredibly joyful and honored to know I am contributing to their beauty and happiness. When I think of all of the choices on the market, it is truly a moment of reflection and pause just in knowing they felt a connection to something I created.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on? 

Just the fact that people wear my fragrances is already a compliment within itself.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of the time, what would it be? 

Oh my. That is very difficult to answer. I would be very sad and can’t imagine or accept the idea of only being able to smell only one thing. Smelling is part of my everyday life so not smelling anymore would be like taking away the most important part of it. But I know that answer will not suffice for Linda Levy, so if I really had to choose one, I would choose the Mediterranean region smell since I grew up in the South of France. There is a way the earth, the sky and the sun all melt together to create something that is beautiful and unique. It is sunny and warm and it always brings light, happiness and wellbeing in my life when I am there. It is a place where I truly feel alive.

Favorite non-perfume smell? 

I have three: the fig trees in Provence, a eucalyptus forest after the rain or a pine forest under a blanket of snow.

Favorite meal? 

TRUFFLE, TRUFFLE AND TRUFFLE. I love them so much that I planted 500 truffle oak trees at my home to enjoy truffle for the rest of my life!

Fantasy dinner guest?

Leonard de Vinci or Jack the Ripper.

What is your favorite saying or expression?

I do like the conclusion of Voltaire Candide ou l’optimisme masterpiece: “Il faut cultiver notre jardin” (translation: we must cultivate our own garden) meaning we must work within our own thoughts to find the true happiness within.

Illustration by: Rebecca Moses @rebeccamosesofficial

This edition of Accords had to pivot, so we delayed its publication to bring relevance and unique content to you. We feature an insightful interview by April Long with our TFF creative collaborator Rebecca Moses, whose original project was The Fragrance Day, a collection of illustrations  based on scent families. Now Rebecca delivers to the world, on her own, a sense of global relevance and beauty at this difficult time. Rebecca has formed a Stay Home Girls community and movement which is inspiring!

For our Perfumers’ Q&A, we posed additional questions to 3 fabulous Perfumers who share their unique perspectives including those of the pandemic impact on their craft. 

Also, I share with you my TFF fragrance perspective based on my connection to the community. While all of us know that right now nothing seems normal, we join together to appreciate what is most important in the world: health, happiness, friends, family and the care and support for those most affected. On a lighter Accords note, please take some time off while we all stay home to enjoy visits on Instagram Lives from our creative fragrance world, light a candle, or spray a scent that transports you or creates your own sense of calm.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

What makes a legend? In Leonard A. Lauder’s case, it’s been generosity, curiosity, and of course, genius business acumen. Working alongside his self-made woman of a mother, the indomitable Estée Lauder, and ultimately taking the reins of the biggest beauty corporation on the planet as CEO from 1982 to 1999, Leonard Lauder has always innately understood that good business begins with good relationships. Since joining Estée Lauder in 1958, he has expanded the definition of a family business to include all of those who work for, and with, the brand—supporting the success of others, and forging lifelong friendships with colleagues, beauty advisors, and fragrance suppliers along the way.

Here, the legendary executive, philanthropist, and art collector sits down with Accords to reflect on his journey at the helm of the cosmetics giant. In the first of a three-part conversation, he looks back on his mother’s game-changing, history-making impact on the fragrance industry as we know it. 

What is your first scent memory?

Well, Youth Dew was launched in 1953. It was my mother’s favorite and it attracted a huge following. And what I do remember is that in 1953, I was still at the University of Pennsylvania. I was a junior and I had just gotten a car. It was a brand-new Plymouth, powder blue, and I had a little ceremony where I christened the mud guard with a bottle of Youth Dew, but then wiped it off because I was afraid it would take off the paint. Youth Dew has been with me over these many years. Now, as it turns out, my wife Judy wears it all the time—and when I smell it on her, I smell love.

What did you learn by watching your mother’s approach to beauty when you were growing up?

That you have to love helping people feel beautiful. You have to love people. And you have to never give up.  She was persistent, and she kept on selling, selling, selling. She truly felt fragrance. She could see it.

What did Estée teach you about the fragrance business?

Again, never give up. I remember, when I first joined the company, I shared a tiny office with her, and I heard her on the phone with a man from van Ameringen, which was the predecessor to IFF. She wanted to have a Youth Dew spray, and the salesman said to her, “Estée, I’m not going to sell you this, because it’s too strong and women don’t like to smell strong.” She said, “I’ll buy it somewhere else,” and hung up. 15 minutes later, guess what? The phone rang. “Okay, we’ll sell it to you.”  It’s about believing in what you believe in, and sticking to your guns.

What do you think Estée understood about women and what they want from fragrance that others did not?

Well, like I said, she loved to make women feel beautiful. Leo Lerman, who was the editor of US Vanity Fair after it launched, was a fellow student of my mother at Newtown High School, and he remembered that she used to love making up her friends and combing their hair. You have to love beauty, and you have to love women, and she did. Which is one of the reasons why Estée Lauder has always been a company that believes in women, as customers and as employees.

There’s so much about Youth Dew that’s legendary—from its introduction as a bath oil to the moment Estée dropped it on the department store floor to draw attention to it to the character of the scent itself. What, in your opinion, was most key in Youth Dew becoming a sensation?

A few things. First of all, it smelled great and it lasted forever. And number two, the techniques of selling it were great. We sampled it and sampled it and sampled it. And when we were tired of doing that, we sampled it some more. I had just started at the company and I was in a little tiny office and I received a cosmetics buyer from Neiman Marcus. He said, “You know, every time we sample your Youth Dew bath oil, people buy it.” So I took all the money we had, which was very little, and bought something like 50,000 samples. We gave it out, and the rest is history. If the product is good, sample it.

There’s a great story about my mother. She got into a taxi to go to the Plaza Hotel for lunch and in those days, taxis didn’t have a screen between the driver and the passengers. So, the man behind the wheel said, “Mmm, you smell wonderful. I think you’re wearing Estée Lauder. All my fashionable passengers wear that.” And as my mother got out of the taxi, she said, “You know, I’m Estée Lauder.” He said, “Yeah, and I’m Cary Grant.”

What perspectives did your father bring to the fragrance side of the business?

He was always the one who helped maintain the quality, and he and my mother were partners. Basically, she was the chief creative officer and he was the chief operating officer. That’s how it worked. He was the calming influence, and he was great at that.

What were Evelyn’s insights on fragrance and why were they so important?

Evelyn had the same skills as my mother did. She dreamt fragrance and she could see fragrance. And when my mother was getting older, she called Evelyn up and said, ” Evy, I’m working on my new fragrance. Can you help me finish it?” And Evelyn went in and spent a lot of time on it, and that became Beautiful.  

When you say that they could see it, what do you mean?

I can’t explain it. My mother said, “I can see fragrance” and Evelyn said the same thing. I took them at their word.

Didn’t your mother also invent the idea of the fragrance wardrobe?

Well, as time went on, we had children. I don’t mean actual children, I mean more fragrances. We had Estée and Aliage and White Linen and so on until we had 10 or 12 fragrances. We used to do a huge business at Christmas time with a package of mini versions of all of them, called Small Wonders. But the idea for our fragrance wardrobe came from Mrs. Estée Lauder, my mother. She said, “You have to wear something different at night than what you wear during the day.” Simple, right? She was the first person to say that.

Always forward-thinking, Leonard A. Lauder is known for the creativity and innovation he brought to The Estée Lauder Companies, implementing successful marketing and sales strategies, and establishing the company’s first R&D laboratories. But perhaps more than anything else, Leonard Lauder emphasized the importance of listening. He went out into the field on now-legendary van trips to visit sales people around the country, and cemented close relationships within the major fragrance houses. In his estimation, no individual was less important than any other, and as a result, he built a brand distinguished by loyalty and goodwill. In the second part of his conversation with Accords, he shares why that approach was so important as Estée Lauder defined the American fragrance landscape.

How would you describe your mother’s approach to fragrance development and working with perfumers?

Firstly, she had her favorite perfumers and she worked with them all the time. She had one person in particular who was her acolyte, Karyn Khoury, and they would work and work together until a fragrance was finished. We also never used consumer studies. Once she liked it and Karyn liked it, that was it. I used to just say to Karyn, is this a good fragrance? If she said yes, we would launch it.

How have your relationships with people like Patrick Firmenich and Nicholas Mirzayantz enhanced the work you’ve done with the fragrance houses?

I have to go way back because the Estée Lauder relationship with IFF’s predecessor was with van Ameringen-Haebler. My mother had a great relationship with Arnold van Ameringen. And we became very, very friendly with the whole family and they gave us their best perfumers to work with. And then later on, as we needed to expand the number of people who are able to do fragrances for us, we started with Firmenich. It was not yet with Patrick Firmenich, it was with his father, Fred-Henri Firmenich. Now we have a great relationship with Patrick. And before Nicholas at IFF, it was a man named Tom Joy. My relationship with Nicholas is fabulous, as is the company’s.

We spend more time working with our suppliers and thanking them for their help than we do with the people we sell to. I remember our first Christmas party, and it was a party for our suppliers. And from that time on, our suppliers were at the heart of what we did and we depended on them. We’re very loyal to them.

You also had a great relationship with your sales force and retailers, going out on now-legendary van trips to make personal connections at stores. How did that make the company what it is today?

We had a great field culture. We depended not on our advertising but on the people behind the counters, our beauty advisors and consultants, to sell our products. I would always make it a point to see them on our trips. We would take van trips and I would say to everyone, you all have a vote. You’re part of a family. When we talk about work, and what’s a good thing or not, you will have a vote. So, we’d all pile into the van and go out and then at four o’clock in the afternoon, we’d have milk and cookies. Then we’d have dinner at night. And on occasion I would have a dinner for the people who are working for us the field, plus their spouses. Because I wanted to thank them for the time their spouses spent working so hard.

My late wife Evelyn was also very deeply involved with everyone. If someone got ill, she was on the phone with them. And I would also take care of them. We love the people who work for us. We love them.

What else made your approach to retailers so successful?

Well, whenever I would meet with a member of the press, my job was not to ask them to support me, my job was to give them something that they could write about that no one could read about elsewhere. My job was to help them be successful. Same thing for the retailer. My job was to make them successful also. They all had businesses to run. I was trying to help them look at us not as a vendor but as a full partner.

Now, as time went on, it became harder because the people who owned the retail companies left. They retired one by one. The companies became professionalized. But I love finding people who love to see things sold, and I love to give them things that they can sell. And I try to make all of them heroes. We would give the launch of something to a particular store, so they could say this is ours alone.

I must say, my greatest gratification was the people who worked with me and for us and the people who I befriended. And I can tell you story after story, after story, of how so-and-so assistant buyer became the CEO of a store. I kept in touch with them throughout the years and they are still my friends. We are friends forever.

What do you think makes a great fragrance launch?

You have to start off with a good product. And there’re some things I don’t want to tell you because if you write about it, I’m telling my competitors. But we made sure that the launch was important. My phrase was ‘launch strong, stay strong’. We didn’t say, let’s try it and see if it works. We just did it and sampled it and sampled it some more. We believed in our fragrances so much. Although we had advertising, the key thing was: how does it smell?

How do you view the difference between a launch of a fragrance versus makeup or skincare?

Launching a fragrance was launching the brand again. Launching makeup or skincare was launching a product. When you’re launching a fragrance, you’re relaunching Estée Lauder.

How have you seen advertising evolve?

My view of advertising was always sell the brand, not the product. Because if you sell the brand, you sell many products. You have the customer’s trust, and they’re coming back and buying more later on. Brand means everything to me.

As Chairman Emeritus of the Estée Lauder Companies, Leonard A. Lauder is also unofficially referred to as the Chief Teaching Officer. While Lauder’s business leadership is second-to-none, those who have worked with him cite the small things—like always going out of his way to compliment employees in front of their direct bosses (“That’s a twofer!” he says) and writing his famous “blue notes” of thanks and encouragement—as his most impactful acts. In the final part of his visit with Accords, Lauder discusses why a company is defined by the way it selects, cares for, and nurtures its own.

What would you say the secret to great leadership is?

Many things. The key secret is recognition. Recognize someone for their abilities and what they’ve done. Do not say “I am great,” say “you are great.” Recognition. Secondly, trust. They have to trust you. I had someone work for us one time. I can tell you his name but I’d rather not. He said to someone, “trust me” and I would say to myself, “she’d better head for the hills.” If you give someone recognition, in one way or another and you are fair, you can make it work. You may have heard about my blue notes. I write notes to people, thank you for this and thank you for that. But sometimes I even write notes saying “don’t let me do this again.”

What do you consider the key signifier of talent for people when you’re hiring?

It depends on the talent that you’re looking for. If you’re looking for an art director, let’s see what they can do. Looking for a copywriter? You have to see their work. But you also have to understand what’s in their heart and their soul. I have a good feeling for that. I see a lot of people who do interviews like this: Now let me tell you what we’re looking for here. They talk and talk and talk and talk and talk and talk. Do you have any questions? No, thank you. You’re hired.

Here’s the secret that I have. If I interview someone, I ask them, what is the thing that you’re the proudest of that you did? Was it a launch that you did? Was it the package design that you did, an ad that you did? Take as much time as you need. Tell me how you did it. If they could tell me how they did it, and I could understand them and believe them then I knew that they knew the business. But if they were trying to blow smoke in my eyes, I could see it. I could give you one small example. I was trying to increase the number of people in our international division. I interviewed someone and I said, “Tell me where you’ve been.” “Oh, well, Switzerland.” I said, “Oh really? That’s great! Where?” “Geneva.” “How lovely! Isn’t it a great city?” “Yes it is.” “What hotel did you stay in?” “Well, actually I just changed planes there.”

What do you think were the key decisions you made that enabled Lauder to become the fragrance leader in the United States?

So many, but I’ll tell you this. For each fragrance we launched, I wanted to make sure that the advertising and promotion we did was aimed at the people who would be our customers. Over the years, people made some mistakes. When we launched one of our fragrances, they took all the money and put it into running movie theater commercials. We were selling premium products—what were we doing running in the movie theaters for young kids? It was a total mismatch, and it didn’t sell. You have to be smart enough to know what you know and what you don’t know. I also admired how some people took chances and it worked. Like Calvin Klein, with CK One. I did things, many times good, once or twice not too good, but I learned from my mistakes. I love the fragrance business.

What advice would you give a budding beauty entrepreneur?

Be true to what you are. Don’t let someone talk you into doing something that you think is wrong for you or wrong for your brand.

What do you consider your own greatest achievement?

The people that work for us, they are my greatest achievement. Because to make them happy and productive at the same time is what I love.

This edition of Accords is momentous for The Fragrance Foundation, and certainly for the fragrance global community. When Leonard A. Lauder gave me a resounding YES to be our solo featured guest, it was an extraordinary opportunity to bring spectacular content to our audience of readers in the USA and around the globe.  

Our editor, April Long, and I sat down with Leonard for an astounding conversation from the preeminent beauty executive, whose relationships have enhanced all who know him. Every personal story and business insight he shares are truly life lessons that you want to capture in your mind, not only for business, but in your heart forever.

Please savor this Accords edition and share your feedback and comments with me, so this dialogue continues. Let us all look forward to when Leonard A. Lauder will be inducted into the World Retail Hall of Fame in April, and when he publishes his memoir later in 2020, reflecting on his life and career. 

Thank you Leonard for all that you have shared here and all that is yet to come!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Wendy Liebmann, CEO of WSL Strategic Retail

Wendy Liebmann knows what you’re going to buy before you do. She also knows why, and where you’re going to shop for it. The Australian-born founder of WSL Strategic Retail has been conducting research and reading the tea leaves about consumer habits for more than two decades, helping companies across beauty, fragrance, food, and fashion build retail strategies by staying connected to the desires and priorities of the customers navigating the shop floor. “We observe shoppers everywhere from the subway to some mountain in Peru,” she says. “We look at things and ask, ‘What is happening? Why is it happening? How can we ground that in data? What’s the insight? What does it mean about the future?’” The answers are often surprising, and always invaluable. Here, Liebmann talks to ACCORDS about the state of retail today, and shares her thoughts on how the fragrance industry can capture more consumers as we head into 2020. 

How does WSL work to create shopper-led retail experiences?

We help our clients, who are both manufacturers and retailers, stay focused on what shoppers are doing and thinking and how that will impact their purchasing behavior. We know how people want to consume a product, but when it comes to how they want to buy and where they want to buy, that’s something that companies can get stuck in their own heads about. We help them anticipate where shoppers are headed. Our focus has always been on understanding the economic, political, social, and technological factors that are impacting how people are living their lives, and how that impacts how they choose to spend money on goods and services, and ultimately on specific categories and products.

We do a lot of our own primary research, under the banner of How America Shops. The first study we did was almost 30 years ago, and it was really based on our curiosity about changes in where people were shopping. They were shopping high and low, mass and prestige, and it was weird in those days. Why did somebody who shopped at Saks also shop at Walmart? Now, because we’ve been tracking consumer behavior for so long, we can help our clients see how things have shifted, and then help them determine where the shopper is headed, so they can build a relevant retail experience, whether that’s physical or digital.

What are some of the larger trends that you’ve seen coming before anyone else?

One of the most impactful is the shift we saw coming back in 2015 or 2016 from acquiring things to what we call buying happiness. It was the moment we saw how the notion of the American Dream, which had been grounded in acquisition—I want my own home, I want my own car—move into this very emotionally-driven set of values, and that evolved somewhat out of the recession. That’s when people started to talk about things like well-being and less stress and financial stability in ways that were highly emotive. It’s really changed everything, and driven the whole trend towards health and wellness.

Now, the big trend that we have been tracking with our clients has been all about time. That has become a foundational shift in everything you deliver, whether it’s products like fragrance, or how you’re presented at retail—people are making choices that are saying, “If it’s not easy for me, I’m not interested.” The idea of “taking stress out of my life” has evolved into “I value my time.” That’s one of the big threads that we see today.

What else are you seeing now that you think points to the future?

What we’re looking at here is this major reset in the shopper’s mindset. Last year, we talked about shoppers trying to wrest control in a world of chaos, and what’s emerged in our recent work is that the shopper is now saying, “I have to take control.” They’re incredibly purposeful about everything they do. It’s grounded in this fundamental trust that people are now thinking through. If you talk about perfect beauty, they turn it on their head and talk about how it’s fine to be imperfect. People are challenging the old truths. They’re thinking about their purpose in life, not their possessions in life. That’s changing the way that brands and retailers need to think about how they do business, because there’s now a very different sense of how we need to engage shoppers.

How would you describe what’s happening in fragrance retail specifically?

The fragrance industry is doing what everybody else in the beauty industry is doing, which is not understanding the magnitude of the change. The good news is that they’ve been fairly level for some time. But to me, the companies, both brand and retailers, need to understand that fragrance has to have a different emotional tenor now. It isn’t only about a designer or celebrity or a gorgeously designed package, it’s about the emotional value of the moments that fragrance creates in our lives and in our memories and in our health and well-being. It’s a massive opportunity that a lot of companies are not responding to.

We talk to younger consumers all the time about their shopping, and they think of fragrance in different ways. They think about fragrance in terms of candles or the lavender spray they put on their pillow. It’s become much more holistic than just a bottle of perfume. I think the good news for the industry at large is business is stable. The bad news for the industry at large is business is stable. Meaning that the value of fragrance as a tool for well-being has not really been captured or taken advantage of yet.

How do you think they should seize that opportunity?

I think stepping back and saying, “How can we talk about fragrance in a different way?” We did some work years ago with a retailer who was trying to create a different focus for their fragrance experience, and we brought all the executives into a strategy session and asked them to talk about a moment in their life where fragrance had an emotional impact. It was such a valuable tool because all of these fragrance executives were able to remember the essence of what a smell does to you. We had people talk about everything from their mother’s kitchen and special meals to the smell of their newborn baby to their wedding day. It was extraordinary. I think these are the levels of engagement that consumers are looking for again. And I think that’s part of the tremendous opportunity here. Look around at who’s doing interesting things—for example, you walk into a hotel like the Westin and it has a fragrance. It’s not just like, “Isn’t this clean?” but rather, “Oh, we must be at the Westin.” That is what consumers of fragrance are looking for today, an emotional resonance and memory that only a wonderful smell can create.

What is the most interesting thing you’ve learned about how people shop for perfume?

On the one hand, the industry at large thinks about fragrance as a browsing experience where somebody wants to come in and immerse themselves. What we’ve come to know is most of that mythology was driven in a time when people had more time, and the retail experience was more relevant for them to come in and wander through. Today, life has become so frenetic that people buy fragrance the same way we see them buy everything. They are in a hurry, and they are so overwhelmed by the choice. Walking into a department store is like walking down the beauty aisle or into the grocery store—it becomes so challenging to pick one or to immerse yourself in one, that people now go on autopilot. Fragrance, which should be an emotional purchase, has become a category, like lots of other categories, where people go, “Can I get it fast?” “Is it easy to understand?” “Am I just replenishing?” “Do I care to spend my valuable time immersing myself in something new? “Celebrity A has talked about it, I’ll just buy it.” We need to break that rhythm. We’ve seen it in categories like specialty food, where the goods are presented through sight and smell and curation. 

What are some examples of the way those other categories have broken the rhythm?

I’m struck by the new Comme des Garçons store in Paris, which I’ve been reading about. The way that store has very selectively chosen the brands that it will carry, which is not only Comme des Garçons but other fragrance brands. Each of the brands are presented in ways that are limited, and each with their own very selective space. I think that allows the voice and message and the story to be clearer to the consumer. Less is more, which is always a challenge in this market because we’re so used to “more is more.” The storytelling needs to be much more differentiated. I think the storytelling now is left outside the physical space and left to social media and Instagrammable messaging. The experience in the store is just to literally pile it on, and I think that’s a big miss.

If you walk into an Eataly, the messaging of what it stands for—that it’s about Italian lifestyle and food—is immediate. It’s also clearly organized by either food type or experience. So you’ve got the fishmonger, and then the prepackaged fish and the place to eat the fish. And, “Okay, now how about some wine while you’re buying your fish?” They’ve created these microcosms of specialty that enable people to immerse themselves in a cultural message, an experience from the highest level down to the very utilitarian question of “What’s for dinner tonight?”

I think that’s why the smaller, independent specialty retailers who are doing fragrance are continuing to grow, because there are people who want that immersive experience that they’re not getting it in a larger retail space like a department store. Sephora turned fragrance on its head two decades ago by saying, “We’re going to make it much more democratic. We’re going to let you shop by alphabetized fragrance.” When they did that, it was novel, and it was approachable. You could test scent without people leaning over you all the time and trying to force something on you. But we haven’t seen that kind of innovation in a long time.

What can digital fragrance retailers be doing beyond sampling?

I think digital has the ability to create emotional visual experiences, and it’s missing out. We can create a virtual reality, like walking through the lavender fields of Provence, but what the industry has done is it has used the online platform more for just replenishment. Or, there’s the fragrance, there’s the model, there’s the bottle, there’s the price, ship it home.  Some fragrance brands have beautiful imagery, but they’re not using the technology to create a mood board that takes me into the visual experience and enables me to understand what the sensory experience is. Those things can be so powerful. It’s like hearing a perfumer talk about how they’ve created something, and you can smell it without actually smelling it.

So the brands that are putting perfumers front and center are doing it right?

That’s the other piece, right? The power of storytelling about the fragrance. I never think it’s about a green note or whatever note. I just like what I like. But that whole proposition about hearing a perfumer talk about a scent, it’s like hearing a great artist talk. Even if it’s just about how they created the fragrance that’s in my laundry detergent. It’s incredibly palpable.

For decades, perfumer and author Ron Winnegrad has been opening people’s minds, lighting up their olfactory bulbs, and firing up their imaginations. As educator and de facto patron saint of IFF, Winnegrad has forged a very unique niche in the fragrance industry, thanks to his ability to help his students—who can be fragrance novices as well as perfume pros—“see” scent with color. After spending time with him, one walks away understanding not just the building blocks of an eau, but also how perfume can so powerfully tell stories, affect emotions, and connect individuals.

Winnegrad, who began his career as a chemist at Unilever before transitioning into fine fragrance, trained under the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena, and in turn mentored Thierry Wasser, who is now in-house perfumer for Guerlain. His resumé as a nose includes such blockbusters as Love’s Baby Soft and Lagerfeld Classic, but he maintains that his work as the director of IFF’s perfumery school has been his crowning glory. Winnegrad is truly someone who improves people’s lives—or at the very least, their days. A visit to his delightful stuffed-bear-filled midtown office is a treat, as is a perusal of his thoughtful blog, perfumewhisperer.net, or a dip into his 2017 book, InsBEARations: Warm and Wise Words of Encouragement, which pairs his whimsical and charming bear illustrations with wise quotations from the likes of Maya Angelou, the Dalai Lama, and Michelle Obama. As he writes in the book’s intro, “Happiness, it seems, is not about having everything you want, but about finding meaning, connection, and fulfillment in all the things you do.”

How have your unique life experiences affected your work?

I went to Syracuse University, where I became very good friends with my native American roommate. He invited me to his reservation, which was about six miles from the school, and I really hit it off with his cousin, who was the chief. He and his wife had two kids, and they kind of took me in. I never went home after that. I stayed there over the summers and I learned their ways, which is what made me who I am now. The native Americans believe in the circle – whatever you get, you give, and it comes back around. I started teaching 20 years ago, and it has been the greatest thing ever. When I was a perfumer, I trained some evaluators and I trained some perfumers, but when I was given the opportunity to come here and teach at IFF, I was so grateful. I get so much joy out of completing the circle.

You teach how to understand scent in a very unique way. How did that come about?

When I started training in 1968, perfume was talked about musically, in terms of notes and accords. But I’m tone deaf—so I couldn’t relate to that. I wanted to relate it to something, so I started thinking about it in terms of color, and the more I did that, the stronger it became for me. At the time, there was no Internet, and I didn’t know the word synesthesia. I didn’t know it existed. But years later, I was able to look it up and I learned so much more about it. And this is how I train: I train people how to smell using color.

How does synesthesia work?

Everybody’s born with synesthesia. But after about a year old, most people lose it. There’s only four or 5 percent of people in the world who have synesthesia as adults. But you can train yourself. And the more you train yourself, the stronger it gets. You actually wake up those neurons that were active your brain when you were born.

What inspired you to start your blog?

I started doing it in about 2015. First I only shared it internally, but I saw people’s reactions and I thought, maybe this could assist others. So now I have 300 and some odd people who have signed up for emails, and a lot of other people just visit the site. Sometimes I talk about fragrance and sometimes I just talk about life. I post every Friday. An early one that meant a lot to people was the Talking Stick. It’s something I teach to everyone, and a lot of people say it’s good for life in general. I learned it from going to meetings with the Native Americans where the chiefs meet. When one chief is talking, he has what’s called the Talking Stick. If someone wants to contradict him or add something when he’s through, they say, ‘Can I have the Talking Stick?’ And before they take it they have to repeat back to him what he said to show that they understand his point of view. Then they can say whatever they want. I teach people here at IFF that when the customer says, ‘I want a rose,’ they shouldn’t just say, ‘oh, they want a botanical garden,’ and walk out. Too many people leave a conversation with an impression, not the real desire. And there’s a difference. It’s important to understand what someone is saying.

What inspires your posts week to week?

Usually something I’ve read or come across. I don’t think I’m intelligent, it’s just that these are things that I find and I think they might interest other people, and I want to share them.

What are some of your sort of early scent memories?

Oh wow. That’s difficult. I guess it would be the first time I went to the South of France. That was really powerful for me. Everything was in bloom. The reservation always had a very strong smell for me, too—mostly of wood.  

Did you always recognize that you had a specially attuned sense of scent?

No, I didn’t. And that’s why I truly believe that it’s a skill. There are two degrees of being good. You can be just good. Or you can be very good, if you practice that skill every day or once a week. That’s why I train people the way I do—first to identify single ingredients, then the mixes. Because it doesn’t matter how many ingredients a fragrance has, there are only going to be 10 to 12 ingredients that give it its DNA. Think of this analogy: when you take a shower, you walk out, you have no clothes on, that’s you. You put on clothes, you’re still you. All the other stuff that’s in a fragrance is just the jewelry, the sweater, the tie. But the personality comes down to the core ingredients. And if you can identify them, you can find the DNA of any fragrance.

It all comes down to practice. Twyla Tharp wrote a great book on creativity and skill and she said that every day after practice Michael Jordan would stay and take basic shots, the type people take when they’re just learning, for about 20 minutes. The point being that no matter how good you are, practice will keep your skills sharp.

What would you say your philosophy of scent is?

To me, every fragrance should have a story. It should take you somewhere. If I give you something to smell and say, “I’m going to make you feel like you’re walking on a beach in Hawaii. And you’re going to see palm trees,” the same sites would light up in your brain that would if you were actually there. When I give you that message, you neural couple with me, and that creates trust. This is what I think the meaning of fragrance is. We’ve gotten so analytical about ingredients, and we have machines to tell us what they are. But what I teach people is that it what matters most is the story.

You’ve written on your blog a lot about trusting your intuition. What does that mean when it comes to understanding scent and creating perfumes?

When you have basic knowledge, it’s in your memory, which means it’s in your limbic system where your intuition is. So if you go with your first gut feeling, then you’re using intuition, which comes from knowledge. But once you smell something and you say, ‘I think it’s rose, but let me double check,’ you put it in your prefrontal cortex which becomes your reasoning. That challenges your intuition—and that’s when you start changing your mind.

When I train people, there are three things I teach. One is to use both nostrils when you smell. The next is to close your eyes, so that you can focus on the smell. The last thing, which takes time, is to use your intuition. When you doubt yourself, you might not try something new, and I believe in pushing boundaries. 

OLIVIER GILLOTIN, GIVAUDAN

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

I love the odor before a storm, when the sky is dark and the rain’s approaching. It’s a complicated smell, it’s relaxing and, for me, reminiscent of summer.

Similar to how some painters put hidden marks without anyone knowing, I use a subtle amount of the storm-like smell in all of my fragrances―it’s part of my personal signature.

What’s your favorite saying or expression?

Winston Churchill once said, “Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.” This is particularly relevant to perfumers, where even the most successful have lost more projects than they have won. 

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be?

Happiness or zen. A good fragrance should be able to change someone’s mood and make them feel good.

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be?

Don’t think of fragrance as something trendy, but rather wear it to bring you joy. I would have to say perfumers work in purely emotion. I think we’re all pretty sensible, but our feelings fuel us: we feel emotion, we reflect emotion, and we live on emotion. 

MARIE SALAMAGNE, FIRMENICH

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I believe that patchouli is simply inescapable. It’s an ingredient that you can continually reinvent. It’s a fragrance all on its own, and it always has an impact.  No matter the dosage, it always plays a key role in a formula. In Issey Miyake’s l’Eau d’Issey pour Homme Wood & Wood, Dora Baghriche and I combined two qualities of patchouli and it was incredible.

I would also choose orange flower as a favorite.  It’s a modern, luminous flower, and it evokes addiction, with a touch of gourmandise.  I’ve worked with these aspects of orange flower in both Histoire d’Orangers for L’Artisan Perfumer and Tiffany & Love for Her, with Honorine Blanc; they show two different expressions of this luscious note.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

After fragrance creation, this represents the second most beautiful moment in my profession.  To cross the path of a woman whose trail is one of my fragrances is so rewarding, and then to exchange with her and learn about how she feels is a spectacular feeling.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

A friend of mine wears one of my fragrances and she cannot imagine a day without it.  It’s become her personal accessory, part of her personality, and that’s an immense compliment.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

Only one smell?  That would be too sad.  It would be like seeing the world in monochrome.

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be?

I love travelling, and as a perfumer, I would love to have the ability to teleport.  Part of my job is to translate nature and reality to deliver emotions. Imagine if I could jump from smelling jasmine in India and pop back to my office to work with that smell still fresh in my mind.  I could appear in Brazil surrounded by exotic fruits or in El Salvador engulfed by Peru Balsam, and then create immediately. 

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?

I would have loved to learn how to sculpt. The idea of starting from clay and giving it life speaks to me. I sometimes visit the Musée Bourdelle not far from my home in Paris, and it’s a true escape.  Sculpture delivers such a pure, intense emotion. It’s inspiring.

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be?

Uncontrollable

MAURICE ROUCEL, SYMRISE

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with ? How have you used it in a fragrance?

Amber & Musk. I used them for Women who love men who love women.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

I feel curiosity – who is she or he? Why this choice? I feel pride, and the opposite of the Rolling Stones, who ‘can’t get no satisfaction’!

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

“There’s a soul in your perfumes.”

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

The smell of life.

What’s your favourite saying or expression?

Be patient in the effort.

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be?

To make this world more intelligent and nicer.

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be?

Choose your perfume like your man or your woman, and not only for life.

This final edition of the year includes the visions from diverse perspectives! Wendy Liebmann shares exciting new dimensions of the ever-changing consumer and how the retail landscape is truly in an evolution. Ron Winnegrad is a teacher extraordinaire, and we are thrilled he shares his insights that have impacted so many of us who are lucky to know him personally, or through what he teaches us today. I know I am a better me, because of Ron on both an olfactive and personal level.

Our Perfumers, Maurice, Marie, and Olivier have provided us with a grand finale for this year with Q&As that are sure to inspire.

2019 was a huge year in the evolution of The Fragrance Foundation, and our ongoing  connection with the fragrance community. We are happy to report major results, as well as look forward to a fabulous 2020, right after these BIG fragrance sales days in the coming weeks.

A major 2019 accomplishment was the total revamp all of our communication in terms of strategy, and the debuts of Accords, our weekly newsletter Noteworthy and the new TFF website.  Look out for enhancements and newness to these communications in the new year! Our social media following continues to grow, and at 41,000 Instagram followers and still going strong. We will focus on reaching out to engage consumers in new ways in 2020.

Looking forward to 2020, there is much in the works! The Fragrance Day, Saturday, March 21st, 2020 will be bigger than ever. We have an amazing collaboration with a fabulous creative talent soon to be announced. Our TFF retailers are joining us across the country, and a new Madison Avenue Fragrance Week celebration will debut in March.  

The Fragrance Foundation is now officially expanding around the globe with new partnerships!

Welcome The Fragrance Foundation UK, which has well been established  for many years and joins hands with us. And Welcome to The Fragrance Foundation Austria, which begins their next phase in their evolution. 

Happy Holidays and New Year 2020 to all!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Carol Hamilton, Group President of Acquisitions, L’Oréal

On October 30^th, the Fragrance Foundation named beauty business icon Carol Hamilton the 20^th annual Circle of Champions honoree. Hamilton’s accomplishments and contributions to the fragrance industry cannot be underestimated: She has transformed L’Oréal Paris as a company, not only by making it more successful and more charitable since she joined in 1984, but also by touching the lives of people she has worked with as a mentor and guide. She’s a crusader for women’s rights, a formidable philanthropist, a creative force to be reckoned with—and an extraordinary gardener. Here, she reflects on 35 years at the top of her game.

What does it mean to you to be welcomed into the Circle of Champions?

I’ve been trying to think about exactly how I would define a champion, but I think it’s someone who has made a difference in the world and who has championed ideas and people and causes. I think it means I’ve really pushed for things, and achieved something. I love it.

What have been some of the greatest moments in your career?

The greatest moments always involve people. To hire someone and mentor them, and then see them get promoted up the ranks and achieve their dreams—that’s one of the things that has made me most proud. I would say the other is being able to blend my love of business with finding related purposes that give back to the world. For example, the first philanthropic cause for L’Oréal was to join with the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund in 1995. That was before we bought Kiehl’s. I joined the Ovarian Cancer Research Board and started doing events, not only to raise money for the fund but also to create advocates of our employees and to have events that made survivors feel more beautiful and loved during their fight. I also got very involved with doctors to understand where the money that L’Oréal raised was being spent, which was tremendously rewarding for me personally and for the company. Over a fourteen-year alliance with them, we became the number one fundraiser on behalf of ovarian cancer research.

Then you went on to expand L’Oreal’s philanthropic work even more.

When I moved to the Luxury Division in 2008 in the depths of the recession, I thought if we just keep looking at the sales numbers, we’re going get really depressed. We needed to use the time more constructively. I asked each of the brands to select a philanthropic cause that was very closely connected to what they stood for. The Giorgio Armani brand, whose number one fragrance was Acqua Di Gio, decided to work with UNICEF and created a program called Acqua for Life, which is now ten years old. We’ve raised 10 million dollars to bring clean water to the most needed countries in the world. With Lancome, we partnered with St. Jude, because the fact that the brand was one that was transmitted from mother to daughter resonated with the importance of family relationships to the way St. Jude treats childhood cancer. I believe if you can couple the power of a brand and the passion of its employees with a cause, you not only give back but you make a much more purposeful brand, and that’s what consumers are looking for.

How did you get started with gender equality work?

I’ve always been a big champion for women, but in about 2013 it dawned on me that maybe I should understand gender equality more from a fact-based point of view and really study it, rather than just be the victim of a subtle, sometimes-unconscious bias. I found a course at Harvard called Women in Power. It’s a week-long adult course, and it really made me understand that there are true physiological and biological reasons why men and women are different in terms of the way they approach negotiation, networking, everything. It made it much easier for me to tackle conversations that before I had avoided. And last year I became the chair of the Women’s Leadership Board at Harvard, so I’m responsible for leading the agenda for the next 20 years.

What advice do you give to young women who are just getting started in the industry?

It’s kind of trite because so many people say it, but follow your passion. Also be very serious about learning, and never allow yourself to be typecast because you look or act a certain way or you’re a certain gender. You will be good at what you want to be good at and what you choose to focus on. It’s really about being very strong and committed and not letting one-off situations derail you.

How did you find the transition into the Luxury Division after having worked with mass brands for so long?

I loved it. Now, it was most at the most difficult time. There wasn’t one number on any sales sheet that was positive, not one. And everything was different: especially the relationship with the retailer. I always say the most important word when work in mass is yes. The most important word in luxury is no. It took me a while to get comfortable with that.

You’re now Group President of Acquisitions. What does that entail?

My scope is to find American brands that can be globalized. It’s a job that has made my schedule much more external than my previous schedule used to be. I’m constantly out talking to founders, going to summits, going to forums and really just trying to spend as much time as I can either understanding the market and brands. And then of course, internally, I’m working with each of the divisions to understand what brands really fill the gaps in their strategy. It’s a very broad, all-encompassing role that is very exciting for me at this stage in my life and career.

What is your personal connection to fragrance?

It’s funny, I didn’t wear fragrance growing up, and my mother didn’t wear fragrance either. And because I grew up in my career in mass, where fragrances are not an important category, I did not have to study them or become an expert in them. I was much more of an expert in what I call the color categories, makeup and hair color. And then my second categories were skin care and hair care. So, when I joined Luxury, all of the sudden I had this portfolio of fragrances and I must admit that I was a bit nervous. It seemed very foreign to me. But Leslie Marino who was running our fragrances at the time came to my office and said, “What’s your favorite fragrance? I want to group our fragrances around and give you the ones that you will want to wear.” I had to admit in a very low voice, “I don’t wear fragrance. You’re going to have to help me.” I decided to choose one fragrance as my signature scent to really help me focus and understand the category. I chose Flowerbomb because I loved the fact that it was all about female empowerment. It wasn’t about the man or the girl trying to get the guy and vice versa. It was just this iconic visual of a powerful woman that was so beautiful. And I loved the designers, Victor and Rolf, who I found very interesting in kind of an exotic way. I also realized that I had a connection to fragrance in my garden.

I’ve heard you have a very special garden. How did you make that connection?

I do. We have a house in Litchfield, Connecticut that was designed and built by Marcel Breuer, the Bauhaus architect, in the early 70s. Breuer really celebrated nature and built his homes so that you could experience that. I spend all of my free time, from April to October, tending to my garden. It’s what I love the most. It’s the colors and the shapes, but also the scents. And I realized that I do love fragrance, I just wasn’t wearing fragrance. I started to use my garden as inspiration for my fragrance journey, and I realized that in retrospect that’s why I chose Flowerbomb.

Do you find gardening to be calming?

It totally stimulates me, especially my creative side. But it totally relaxes me at the same time. The only problem with it is that my wine consumption goes up extraordinarily high in the summer because I can’t garden without a glass of wine.

Is Flowerbomb still your favorite fragrance?

I still love it. I also love Giorgio Armani Si, and I really love Atelier Cologne. Especially Orange Sanguine, which is their number one.. I like Beach Walk of Margiela, because I grew up in California on the ocean.

What have been the biggest changes you’ve seen in the fragrance business?

I think the recognition that there is a place for clean, lighter fragrances. Especially with the American market growing, there is a difference between the very beautiful, historical French approach to fragrance and the way Americans are looking at really just having it as a lifestyle statement.

What do you foresee happening in the future?

I think that it’s going to continue to become very much a part of our lifestyle. Fragrances are going to become a bigger part of the wellbeing movement, in terms of being something that can alter our moods in a positive way. I think fragrance will be thought of more in terms of emotions than sexuality.

On December 10^th, The Fragrance Foundation will join forces with NEXT for AUTISM to host Pedal Power, an exciting, purpose-driven spin class to raise awareness and funds as its premiere Give Back event . What could possibly make this event even more special? It will be led by AARMY, a new fitness studio created by rock-star SoulCycle instructor Akin Akman, and behind-the-scenes fashion and beauty legend Trey Laird, whose creative agency Laird + Partners has masterminded countless ad campaigns for everyone from Tiffany & Co to Tom Ford. Laird is enthusiastic about harnessing the combined energy of the fragrance, fitness, and creative worlds for Pedal Power, which he has chosen to be the first-ever AARMY charity event. ACCORDS caught up with him to talk about how getting physical can change the world.

What’s the idea behind AARMY?

It’s a new fitness experience and a new fitness brand that has both a physical side and a digital side. I founded it with my partner, Akin Akman, who has been the number one SoulCycle instructor in the world for the last five or six years. He’s a phenomenal force in fitness with incredible background training to be a professional athlete. So, it’s about bringing pro athlete training to everyone—really pushing people to find their best and be their best with mental conditioning as well as physical conditioning, across multiple modalities that they can personalize based on their goals. It’s about inspiration and innovation, drive, and determination, in a very elevated setting, with this incredible, next-level coaching experience.

How did it all start?

Akin had always had a vision to do this. He was a child tennis prodigy, and he’s had this incredible experience of top-level training for virtually his entire life. But when he began his coaching career and started training people and working with different fitness brands, he couldn’t find anything that matched the quality, authenticity, drive, and determination that he was used to as a real athlete.

My background is that I’ve had an advertising, marketing, and branding agency, specializing primarily in fashion and beauty luxury goods. I’ve had that for about 17 years and spent my whole career building brands for other people, doing everything from Lauder and Tiffany and Tommy Hilfiger and Jimmy Choo and Tom Ford. It’s been amazing, but I’ve always wanted to be involved in a brand in a deeper way. I met Akin through his classes about seven years ago. We became really good friends, and realized that we wanted to do this together.

Why did you decide to kick it off with a pop-up location?

We’re officially launching in a permanent location early next year, along with our digital app. But as that’s under construction, we wanted to start teasing the experience. We wanted to make sure that Akin’s loyal followers had a place to train with him and his hand-selected coaches build some buzz. So we’re operating a pop-up for several months in advance of our official opening.

How did you get involved with NEXT for AUTISM?

I’ve known Laura and Harry for many years as well as Tommy and Dee Hilfiger. Tommy’s been a client for years and a very close friend. And I’ve worked with Laura and Harry on various projects for fashion and fragrance and have followed their journey with this issue. I actually didn’t know that they had this type of fundraiser, but when I showed Tommy what I was doing with AARMY, he called Laura, who he knew wanted to do a benefit ride, and said, we’ve got to do this with Trey and Akin. It’s really an incredible way to join forces, and it will be our first charity event at AARMY.

What can we expect from the event on December 10^th?

What’s incredible about Akin’s philosophy is that you really, you really commit. It’s not just coming in, taking a class, leaving, and that’s it. It’s building a foundation for something that can have a big impact in your life. And when you think about being able to give back and the way that any single person can have an impact on change, I think that’s what NEXT for AUTISM has done too. They’ve engaged families and broader communities of people that have been affected by autism to step up and do their part and recognize that everybody collectively can make a difference. And when you do something physically and you push yourself physically, but at the same time you’re doing it for something bigger than yourself, it means more.

To be able to engage NEXT for AUTISM’s community and the Fragrance Foundation community as well as the AARMY community, and be able to say let’s like physically put ourselves out there and move this thing forward, I think is really inspiring. And Akin is a master and a genius of pushing people to find something inside themselves. We couldn’t think of a better purpose for our first event than doing this to help people that we know, as well as all of those whose lives have been affected by this in some way, shape, or form.

How many bikes do you have? You might need to get more!

We have 62. And, you know, it’s great when people write a check because anything helps. But if you do something physically, it’s like you’re literally putting your sweat into this and you’re asking people to get behind you and, and support you to support this cause. You’re putting yourself out there, and that takes it to the next level and makes it more meaningful for everyone. It’s going to be a great ride.

DAPHNÉ BUGEY, FIRMENICH

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I love the addictive and aphrodisiac qualities in Ambrox; for Le Labo’s Rose 31, I used the isomere leavo in overdose. Recently, I’ve really focused on woody notes, such as patchouli, in association with unexpected elements. For K from Dolce&Gabbana, I combined three different qualities of patchouli with spicy pimento. For Jean Paul Gaultier’s Scandal, I also mixed three types of patchouli with honey. I also love vanilla for it touches the subconscious, I think, and I have always been attracted to orange flower as well, maybe because I spent some years in Algeria and Iraq in my childhood. 

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

It’s truly satisfying to bring joy and emotion to people. One day, I ran after a woman on the street to ask her what she was wearing, as I loved it. She told me it was a flanker of She Wood from Dsquared and that I wouldn’t know as it was only sold in Italy. I actually created it and didn’t recognize it. That made me smile, and of course, I didn’t tell her.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on? 

A friend of mine told me a funny story.  He was wearing one of my fragrances. A woman literally followed him into the bathroom and knocked on his stall door to ask him the name of his perfume because it smelled so good, she said. During a launch, I was showing small groups of journalists the accords of the fragrance. We were five around a table when suddenly one journalist started to cry because the lily accord reminded her of her wedding day. It was one of the most beautiful and touching experiences. We actually all started to cry as well, all five of us.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

The smell of my children.

What’s your favorite saying or expression? 

A quote from Nikos Kazantzakis: “I hope for nothing, I fear nothing, I’m free.”

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be? 

To fly. I’ve always dreamed of flying. I took a year-long sabbatical and learned to paraglide in Nepal. However, to pilot a paraglider, you need to make decisions constantly and I was just contemplating everything going by, and it was too dangerous. Today, I kite-surf; it lets me sail over the ocean and fly above the waves and that’s one of the reasons I moved to Lisbon!

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do? 

The drums. I believe that jamming with other musicians over an improv session must be the most thrilling experience. Music, like fragrance, resonates in me and fascinates me as it can be so innate, spontaneous and animal.

NICOLAS BEAULIEU, IFF

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I was very young, starting my training in IFF quality control when I smelled Cashmeran® (an IFF captive molecule) for the very first time. And what a shock! The incredible scent of some unknown wood, both aromatic and creamy musky, slightly red fruits. I was very disoriented. It was the first time I smelled an odor which doesn’t exist in nature! That how I understood how important synthetic molecules are for the creativity of the perfumer, and I feel lucky and grateful to the IFF R&D team for coming up with amazing innovative new gems. I am also a huge fan of vetiver, and especially our Vetiver oil Molecular Distillation For Life LMR, more intense in its woodiness and less earthy than regular vetiver oil. This is the quality we used in Tiffany & Love for Him, giving astonishing elegance and lustiness.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

 It makes me so proud, of course! I also like to read consumer reviews on the internet. There are a lot of learnings in what is liked and disliked, and I believe it is key to be aware of consumer critics and crushes –  they share raw emotions, without filters.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

I once met a lady, a long time user of Clinique’s Aromatics Elixir who praised Aromatics in White, telling me it was her ideal alternate perfume! So nice of her to compare my creation to Bernard Chant’s masterpiece…

Favorite non-perfume smell?

The smell of clean laundry when I get home; it is so reassuring and relaxing.

What’s your favorite saying or expression?

“Alone I go faster, together we go further”! My perfumer colleagues all are remarkable, and I love working in team: it is very inspiring… and much more fun!

Favorite meal?

I am on a diet right now, so I could kill for a meal of cheese and red wine!

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?

I would love to be able to read hieroglyphs. As a kid, I wanted to become an archeologist. I guess somehow, one can say that I “excavate” in my perfume formulas!

ARNAUD WINTER, COSMO INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCES

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

My first encounter with Tuberose flowers goes back years ago during my first trip to Mexico. I was welcomed by an enormous bouquet of white blossoms as I walked inside the house where I was staying – it was an olfactive overload of pure bliss. At Cosmo Fragrances, we are fortunate to have access to our exclusive naturals palette which includes my favorite floral ingredient; the Tuberose Craftivity®. This natural extract allows me to create with the addictive sensuality, power and exoticism of the living flower, without going too heavy fruity or medicinal. This olfactive character takes me back to my experience in Mexico.

The scent of Saffron brings immediate childhood memories of my grandmother, especially her cooking. Since she was born in Tunisia, this amazing spice was part of her culinary heritage. It is such a multifaceted note that it works wonders in oriental and leathery accords. It also blends beautifully with iris, rum, honey and rich fruits.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

It’s always a joyful, humbling experience and a privilege to be able to make people feel good about themselves. As perfumers, we can be part of someone’s life in a very intimate and personal way. My work creates special invisible connections between myself, and complete strangers.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

A few years ago, I was lucky enough to be invited to South America to speak about my work to the public. In one of the events, I met a lady from one of the remote villages that is situated on the edge of the Amazonian forest. She traveled hours just to be there for the event. At the end of the presentation, she approached me shyly with tears in her eyes & said: “This scent you created is part of who I am, thank you!” That is the best compliment I have ever received.

Favorite non-perfume smell?

The distinct scent of the air just before the rain on a hot summer day. This mixture of ozonic, solar notes and the rich scent from the earth is a reminder that appreciating the simple things is what matters most.

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be?

 Omnilingualism, I know, it’s a very strange word that describes the capacity to learn and communicate in any languages spoken or not. I think that a lot of things would function much better if we could all communicate, understand and learn from each other. Maybe fragrance as a start?

Fantasy dinner guests?

Joel Robuchon, Bono and Leonardo da Vinci. The table will be definitely interesting! We can create a symphony of culinary/musical/pictorial/olfactive concepts. But one thing is for sure, Mr Robuchon would take care of the cooking!

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be?

Transcendence: Fragrance is much more than just a formula, it’s not just a pretty scent, it helps us transform our identity and pushes us to go beyond our limitations or you can say imagination.

Our November edition of Accords shares exclusive insights from our Circle of Champions 2019 honoree Carol Hamilton, on both a personal and professional level. Even if you were at the event on October 30th, there is so much more to learn about Carol. Did you know she leads the number one fundraiser on behalf of ovarian cancer research? Did you know Carol is the chair of the Women’s Leadership Board at Harvard? These are just some of the major accomplishments of this petite woman whose stilettos definitely do not slow her down. She is a true a woman of action. Congratulations again Carol!

This month’s Perfumer Q&A continues to deliver imaginative responses with exclusive content from Perfumers Daphné Bugey, Nicolas Beaulieu, and Arnaud Winter. We’re giving you an insider look into the lives of perfumers, including their scent memories, their experiences smelling someone wearing a fragrance they created, the most rewarding parts of their jobs, and much more.

And now for the big news that unites the fragrance community – Power Pedal – our premiere Give Back event in partnership with NEXT for AUTISM. We are thrilled to introduce Trey Laird to the entire fragrance planet as the creative force who co-founded AArmy, where we will be hosting the event on December 10th. Although Trey Laird has been a creative force in the fashion, jewelry, and beauty world with great success, he is now in a new lane engaging consumers in the wellness space. Join us for Power Pedal to spin for a cause, and raise awareness so those living with autism may live fulfilling and joyful lives. Click here for more information on how you can register to ride or donate.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Mathilde Laurent is a true trailblazer—not only is her work consistently stunningly original, but as house perfumer for Cartier since 2005, she has also been a beacon of inspiration for aspiring female perfumers. A born and bred Parisian, Laurent is an advocate for—and living embodiment of—creative freedom: She has established her lab and office within the walls of the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, and is always looking for ways to communicate the true artistic potential of fragrance with the rest of the world. One of her most dazzling achievements to date was dreaming up a perfumed cloud, which she created in collaboration with climate engineers Transsolar, and first exhibited in Paris in 2017. On October 30th, the Louvre Abu Dhabi will unveil Laurent’s latest USO—Unidentified Scented Object—enabling museum-goers to once again immerse themselves in a floating cloud of scent. 

What inspired the perfumed clouds? 

It started with my perfume L’Envol, which was launched in 2016. The inspiration for that perfume was mead, ambrosia, the drink of gods. It immediately launched me in the clouds, because the gods are meant to live in the sky above the clouds, and when you drink mead you are said to be near them. Also the historic function of perfume was to link humans on earth and the gods in the sky. So when doing my research around L’Envol, I was always thinking of elevating one’s mind and spirit towards the sky. That’s how he original concept came about.

And then how did you make it happen?

I always try to help people who are smelling my perfumes understand them, not only from an olfactive standpoint but from an intellectual standpoint. So we were searching for something that would show the idea of L’Envol and give people an experience. This is how we started to talk about a perfumed cloud that smelled of L’Envol. We did some research and we heard about the work of Transsolar, so we contacted them, and that was the start of the adventure.

The cloud in Abu Dhabi will be at the Louvre. Do. You consider it a work of art?

When the cloud was presented in the Contemporary Art Fair in Paris, it took on an artistic dimension that I love because even if I don’t consider myself as a contemporary artist, I want to show that perfume is not just a product, a consumer good. I want to show that perfume is poetry, perfume is art, perfume is sensation, perfume is speaking of who we are and how we live. This is why I’m so glad to put it in Abu Dhabi. I think it also has such a great thing to say about where perfume is going nowadays. 

And where do you think that is?

I have always thought that perfumery shouldn’t be only industrial. I have always felt like there is a lack of consideration of the artistic aspect of perfumery. And there is also a lack of contemporary olfactory artists and we must help that exist, because that would make everyone so much happier. If there is more variety, more ways to wear and use and understand perfume, we will all be happy.

Your working space is within an art gallery. Why is it important to you to be near art?

It’s more than important, in fact. Being in Fondation Cartier gives me a relationship to art, and also an opportunity to meet artists, philosophers, and writers  – people who are very diverse and at the highest level of expertise. It’s a very lively, very sparkling environment. It gives me so many joys and so many ideas and so many friends.

You’ve talked about the idea of this kind of olfactory shock. How do you go about kind of having an element of surprise in your creations?

I think that I always pay a tribute to Mr. Edmond Roudnitska. He’s the first one who said, “A good perfume is the one that gives you a shock.” I want to follow that path and to make it feel alive. I think that it’s like love at first sight. Love at first sight is not something quiet. It’s something that makes your heart beat very fast and strong and it’s something which is violent but sweet, in fact. And I think perfume is the same. If you meet a perfume and it doesn’t make an impression, it will not become the perfume of your life. Very often, the perfume of your life is the one that you are just amazed or just sometimes disturbed by. You are just surprised, you are not used to the smell. This is why I have the strong belief that perfume can bring something to your life—it can create passion, desire, satisfaction. 

You’ve connected fragrance and food, drink, jewelry, and more. What are some of the ways that you think about these interconnections?

I think it’s just my brain, which is always putting things in the same box and agitating the box. In my everyday job at Cartier, we very often speak of the house, speak of the gems, speak of the history of jewelry, history of perfumery. But in fact I think it’s because my brain is rather kinesthetic. It’s a kind of game for me when I hear someone speaking of his job, or his passion. I inadvertently know what matches with perfumery and what doesn’t. I consider myself as someone who is playing with odors and smells and also nature and psychology.

What do you consider the most elusive, uncapturable scent?

The vibration of life, the vibration of truth, the vibration of living reality, living nature, living flowers, living trees. That’s really my quest in my work. It is to always try to do flowers as fresh as I can so that you nearly feel them living. 

What is your favorite smell in the world?

It’s a conceptual one. It’s the smell of peace. I think it would be wonderful if I could smell it everywhere.

Do you dream in scents?

I love that question. But I don’t have the memory of a scented dream, I must confess.

You are such an inspiring presence as a woman in fragrance. What kind of advice do you share with other women? 

First of all, it’s really important to me to create perfumes which are not an olfactory caricature of femininity – nor a caricature of masculinity. I try to offer flowers for men and woods for women. And to work in notes that are unusual on the market. So that people can choose what they want to wear and not what they are told to wear, I try to offer perfume with a very large and very open-minded vision of femininity.

And I think, nowadays, there are more female perfumers than male perfumers. Or at least it’s even. When I was in school, a long time ago, already there were five times more women than men. And at the moment there are girls paying attention and thinking they can reach the job of perfume designer, but I think it is very funny to see how there are more male perfumers in the media even though they are less numerous now. It is true that until Christine Nagel joined Hermes I was alone as a female in-house perfumer. Now we are two. But in the fragrance companies, there are lots of women. 

How do you want your creations to make people feel when they’re wearing them?

I want them to feel very free. Even free to wear perfume or not. I have just as much consideration for a person who doesn’t wear perfume as for a person who wears my perfume. What I want is to give people freedom to wear any perfume; you don’t have to wear a male perfume because you are male, wear male or female or any other sex because it’s very important to consider that nowadays that we have several sexes, several ways of considering yourself.  What I really want is for people to wear perfume because it gives them a real pleasure, not because it makes them feel clean. It’s really important to go back to thinking of fragrance as something like a jewel, and wearing it like an ornament. 

The Fragrance Foundation’s Give Back Charity of the Year, NEXT for AUTISM, has been fearlessly and resourcefully helmed by founder Laura Slatkin since 2003. Slatkin, revered in the fragrance world as the founder of NEST Fragrances (and the 2019 Fragrance Foundation Game Changer Award honoree), became a crusader for raising awareness for autism and funding treatment and research after her son was diagnosed in 2001. As The Fragrance Foundation and NEXT for AUTISM gear up for their first major fundraising event, Power Pedal, on December 10th, ACCORDS spoke to Slatkin about the charity’s greatest achievements and future plans. 

What does it mean to you to be partnering with The Fragrance Foundation on a cause so close to your heart?

We’re extremely excited to be the Give Back charity for The Fragrance Foundation this year. It’s an enormous honor to have our colleagues and our partners supporting our organization and getting involved and helping us raise awareness for the organization, raise funds and further our mission.

Linda has been an amazing leader of The Fragrance Foundation, and for me, receiving the Game Changer was another terrific honor because we’re so flattered to have been recognized for what we’ve done in the field of home fragrance. My husband Harry and I worked very hard over the past 25 years to build our brands and help other people build their brands, really getting home fragrance growing and thriving as a category. 

All of this gave Linda and I a terrific opportunity to get to know one another, and she was impressed with the work we do for autism. When she came up with this idea that she would highlight our organization with the Give Back program, I couldn’t have been happier.

How do you define the NEXT for AUTISM mission?

We’re dedicated to improving the lives of individuals that are affected by autism and their families. We decided to start NEXT for AUTISM because we were very disappointed back when our son was diagnosed to find that there was such a dearth of services in the community that we live. There were no state-of-the-art schools in Manhattan that followed the principles of applied behavioral analysis, which is the educational curriculum that is reputed to be best practice. We started by opening up the first charter school for children with autism in the state of New York. We partnered with Mayor Bloomberg and our school chancellor. They had over 10,000 kids affected by autism in the New York city public school system, and they needed our help to improve the services for this population. Our first charter school was in Harlem, because I knew that Harry and I could get all the resources that we needed, but what about that single mom living in Harlem with three kids, working three jobs to put food on the table? How was she dealing with a child with autism and how was she going to find a proper education for her child? We then went on to partner with Columbia University, Cornell University and NewYork-Presbyterian hospital to build a medical center that would treat individuals with autism across their lifespan from diagnosis through adulthood. And at that Institute, The Center for Autism and the Developing Brain, we accept all insurance, Medicaid, Medicare, all insurance, so no one gets turned away.

What are your ongoing goals?

We’ve always tried to partner with institutions that already are in the business of education or health care, and build a program that can scale up very quickly. We raise the money, we get these programs started, then they become self-sufficient, and we move on to the next issue. That’s why we’re called NEXT for AUTISM, because we’re always thinking about what’s next for this population? What else do they need? Now, for example, we’re focused on adulthood. So we’ve partnered with Arc of Westchester to build an adult program that contemplates how adults will live in our community and be a part of our community. If one out of 59 individuals are diagnosed with autism, we should be seeing them in our supermarkets and our movie theaters. That’s what we’re working on. Then there’s corporate consulting and we do employment programs and recreational programs.

What are you looking forward to most about the NEXT for AUTISM & Fragrance Foundation Power Pedal event?

We are always finding innovative ways to raise money to support the work that we do. So we’re doing this Power Pedal spin class with AARMY, which is a new training program that was started by Trey Laird, who has opened a pop up downtown. It’s kind of like the way one does a walk or a marathon. So, for example, I take a bike in this class and I pledge to either give or raise at least $5,000 and I send it to absolutely everybody in my email database asking them to support my ride. Obviously, we’ve partnered with The Fragrance Foundation, and when they had their recent board meeting everyone raised their hands unanimously that they would take a bike and participate. So we’re really, really excited about it. Tommy and Dee Hilfiger are co-chairing it with Trey Laird, Martha Stewart, myself and Harry and a bunch of friends and colleagues. We’re all going to have fun and raise money! 

GABRIELA CHELARIU, FIRMENICH

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I love being in nature and always want to be close to nature, so this greatly influences the notes I like to use in fragrances. I love to use mossy notes. They are chameleonic,  able to express different facets: humidity in woody notes like walking in a luxurious forest; soft, warm dryness like the smell of wood baked by the sun; salty effects when combined with marine notes; mineral effects like the smell of wet rocks; fluffy airiness to vanilla; and elegant texture to gourmand notes. As the key ingredient of the most elegant of fragrance accords, the Chypre accord, it’s no surprise that I use mossy notes in many creations. I also love to use Jasmine Sambac. For me, it is a very modern floral note because of its green dewiness, wink of fruitiness and touch of petal-like silkiness. It is a great combination of playfulness, beauty and nature. I use it in many of my creations, and it works naturally in floral fruity structures, subtly in woods by bringing silkiness or even richly in vanillas to enhance deliciousness.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

The moment when I meet someone who’s wearing a fragrance I created, it is the distillation of everything I wished and hoped to achieve as a perfumer.  It fills me with happiness, not because it is my creation, but because I touched someone, because my work meant something important to elicit the act of picking up the perfume, putting it on and going out in the world with confidence. It’s an amazing feeling. Additionally, memories of what that fragrance means to me come flooding back and this shared experience gives me an enormous enthusiasm to create again.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

The best compliment someone has given me about a scent I created is when a person tells me: “This is the fragrance I wore when I met the love of my life.” Of course, I’m not assuming that the fragrance itself played a very large role in that love, but nonetheless, it was part of this extraordinary moment in someone’s life with reverberations long after. Being part of people’s happy, life-altering moments, big or small, through the fragrances I create, and knowing that those fragrances will bring back such happy memories ever after, is indeed the biggest compliment for me.

Fantasy dinner guests

I love theatre so I have many fantasy guests. To mention just a few: theater director Ivo Van Hove, whose plays leave me always completely transformed (I am thrilled by his ability to create intense, even cathartic emotions in the most understated décor, but also by his use of innovative technology to create unexpected theatrical experiences); actress Cate Blanchett, who is a sheer force of nature (every single time I see her on stage, she takes my breath away); and Bristish actor and director Mark Rylance, who practically becomes his characters (I pledge to see him every single time I have a chance). I can only dream of a play directed by Ivo Van Hove featuring Cate Blanchett and Mark Rylance!

Favorite saying:

“Inspiration exists, but it has to find us working.” – Pablo Picasso

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?

I have always wanted to learn to play the piano, and it’s a dream that could still come true.

Favorite non-perfume smell?

The smell of firewood burning in the winter while being outside in the snow. It takes me immediately to my childhood.

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be?

Transportational.

PATRICIA CHOUX, MANE

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with?  How have you used it?

Some of my favorite materials include natural orange flower, and solar salicylates.  These are regressive aromas for me, the scents of childhood memories like baking orange flower cakes, and going to the beach. Banana Republic Neroli Woods, and Carven Dans Ma Bulle, both have a nod to my happy childhood. I also love patchouli absolute, with its dual aspect: woody and earthy, but also humid. I used patchouli and woods in Malin + Goetz Leather.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

I feel super-happy when I meet someone who wears one of my fragrances. It’s the ultimate validation for a perfumer. It’s like being famous for the best part of yourself: for your creativity and your work.  

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

The best compliment anyone has ever given me was, “It changed my life: I’m so addicted. I wear it, and people are attracted to me.” And it wasn’t only one person who told me that people responded to them when they wore that fragrance! I love that my fragrance helps them to feel their best self.

Favorite non-perfume smell?

When it’s marathon season, they prepare for 50,000 runners to arrive in Central Park.  There’s this distinctive smell, close to the finish line. It’s hard for me to describe, because I’m not in my most olfactive frame of mind when I’m at the end of the marathon! It’s something plastic, waxy, maybe a touch of Gatorade, and the smell of the finish line. It smells triumphant!

If you could choose a superpower

Reading people’s minds!—so I will know when they truly like or don’t like a fragrance, and also I would understand how to rework it.

Fantasy dinner guest

I would absolutely love to have dinner with Meryl Streep. She’s brilliant and faceted, and so talented. . . I admire the quality of her work, and also her work ethic—she’s super-inspiring for me. She can be sexy and funny and strong; she’s daring, but classic, with such elegant posture. I would love to create for her. 

Favorite saying or expression

Dare.  Don’t be afraid to go outside your comfort zone. Like everyone else, I have my routines, where I feel safe and protected, but I hate the idea of having routines. I’m trying to not live my life inside my comfort zone. Don’t be afraid.

CELINE BAREL, IFF

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I love the Orange Flower Water absolute LMR as well as the LMR Rose Essential™ (which was granted the Sustainable Beauty product of the year award in 2013), which are both fresher, dewier, cleaner, more modern, and closer to, respectively, the orange flower water and rose water used in pastries or in beauty products, and more importantly, very close to those flowers you smell in the air. I found them more joyful and playful and more versatile. In traces or in overdose, they work their magic and are more easily accepted!

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

The first time I ever smelled a fragrance I created was in the subway in NYC. It was Jessica Simpson’s Fancy Love. It was one of my first fragrances, and I was so deeply happy to smell my work on someone. This fragrance also saved my vacations: I was coming back from Brazil, and on the plane I was talking to my neighbor who shared that her daughter was wearing Jessica Simpson’s Fancy Love, so I told her I created this fragrance as a perfumer at IFF in NYC. At some point during the flight I left my bag unattended under my seat with my brand new camera containing all my souvenirs. Back home, I was excited to look at my pictures only to discover my camera got stolen on the plane. I was heartbroken. Few days later, I received a weird package, with a CD inside on which was written “achado em JFK” (found in JFK) with all my pictures burnt on it !!! So I‘ve been thankful to this “fragrance loving Robin Hood”, and thanks to Fancy Love, “they” found the IFF Address to return at least my pictures!!

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

For Zoologist Squid, someone talked about my “perfume wizardry capturing the fantastic wonders of the unchartered deep”;  another one said the fragrance managed to depict perfectly the habitat and the “aura” of the animal in a wearable way : in both cases, I am happy to hear that through my creation I succeeded in embarking  the consumer onto a journey, make them dream as long as the fragrance lasts. To have given them a good time. An escape. A daydream. There is something very powerful about fragrances, and that’s why I LOVE my job: make people feel good.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be? 

The World!!!

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be?

To be free to explore any time: past, present, future.

Fantasy dinner guests?

A good dinner should not only have great food, it should have great company too. My casting would be: Cleopatra, Alexander the Great, Jesus, Walt Disney, Mick Jagger, Marilyn Monroe, Richard Branson, Elon Musk, Salvador Dali, and Gala. I think we would have a lot of fun and unforgettable conversations!

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do? 

I wish I could play the piano really well and compose, and I would have a surrealistic piano-lab, like in the Boris Vian’s novel L’Ecume des Jours (Foam of the Days), and instead of creating cocktails, my piano would create perfumes…

This October issue of Accords is very special as all of our content is provided by women in fragrance, each exceptional in different ways.

I am most fortunate to know all these women personally, each on a different level, so it is with tremendous pride that we share this exclusive content.

Mathilde Laurent is an extraordinary perfumer who is an exceptional creative force of nature. I was privileged to meet her in NYC when L’envol launched years ago, and attended the spectacular event in Paris when her cloud was premiered, but will sadly miss the exhibition later this month at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. However, every time when Mathilde & I intersect I feel a level of heightened awareness & inspiration, as I expect all our readers will as well.

Laura Slatkin is an inspiration in a completely different way. She is in my terms a “Woman of Action” who sets an example to all who know her with her grace, style, intelligence & generosity. She is truly a Game Changer in the fragrance industry as Nest Fragrances has set a high standard redefining home fragrances & continues to grow. However, what also makes Laura a Game Changer is what she has achieved with NEXT for Autism. Laura is inspiring all of us in the fragrance community & together we are showing what a force we are when we unite to truly Give Back in meaningful ways.

Enjoy as well our Perfumer Q&As this month including 3 great women: Celine, Gabriela & Patricia who share their personalities creative points of view. 

Be on the lookout later this month as our website relaunches in a new modern format!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

One might think Jason Wu especially charmed, if it weren’t clear how hard he works. The Taiwanese-born designer famously dresses the likes of Michelle Obama—for whom he whipped up the memorably stunning gowns she wore at both of her husband’s Presidential inaugurations—but he actually got his start creating doll clothes for a toy company. His signature aesthetic—ladylike, sophisticated, ultra-chic—also defines the two fragrances that he has so far unveiled for his fashion house, the eponymous Jason Wu and its follow-up Velvet Rouge. ACCORDS stopped by his bustling New York studio just before Fashion Week to talk to the down-to-earth, perfume-loving designer about inspiration, new experiences and old friendships, and how to sniff out a great party.  

Your debut perfume tapped into memories of your childhood in Taiwan. What was the process of creating that fragrance like?

I’ve always really enjoyed scent in every way, so it was a longtime dream of mine to create a fragrance. I grew up in Taiwan, where we had a really big garden, which was quite unusual because it’s mostly just apartment buildings. But my father had a lifelong interest in flowers and plants, and that was a big influence on me. 

I wanted the fragrance to be about the magic of my childhood. Smell is maybe more powerful than anything else when it comes to conjuring up memories, and I really just started in a very organic way. I sat down with Frank Voelkl, the perfumer, and we went through a bunch of different ingredients. He didn’t tell me what they were, I just wanted to have a pure reaction. And then at one point a smell stopped me in my tracks. It was the jasmine. I hadn’t smelled it in a while, because it’s not really a flower you see in the city, but I immediately remembered why I like it so much. There was a lot of jasmine in the neighborhood I grew up in, and my cousin and I used to go and pick the flowers. That became the centerpiece for the Jason Wu fragrance, which also has pink peppercorn, grapefruit, and lily-of-the-valley. I wanted create something that was light, feminine, and that really represents me and also the brand.

Is it challenging to embody the spirit of your fashion in scent?

I’ve done so many different products throughout my career, from the bathroom faucet I designed in partnership with Brizo to the sofas I recently did with Interior Define.  I always set out to design the life around her, and scent and beauty are very much part of her routine. I want to know where she lives, I want to know what kind of food she likes to eat, I want to know what she smells like, all of those things. It all comes together because it’s a whole lifestyle. 

Do you think of fragrance as an accessory to the clothing in the same way as a piece of jewelry?

Yeah, I think so. Some people have signature pieces of jewelry they wear all the time, and some people are going to have a scent they wear all the time. It’s something that is very subliminal but actually extremely effective. You remember those things, good or bad. Like, ex-boyfriend—bad. There are some things you just can’t smell again. But then there are others… like my mom used to use this lotion, and when I was little I used to jump in the bed with her, so I always remember that smell as a happy one. Things like that can be very deeply ingrained. 

What was the thinking behind Velvet Rouge?

I wanted to create a naughtier sister. The first Jason Wu fragrance was really clear, really transparent and light. And Velvet Rouge is mysterious and a little bit more sensual. Something a bit more of the night. I say most people have two sides, and these are two sides of my olfactory taste that I wanted to express. Velvet Rouge is about rose, cedarwood and incense. 

I grew up around woods. My parents had a lot of old furniture, and sandalwood and cedar are very important in Chinese culture. It’s also in a lot of temples throughout Asia. That became the accessory to the rose because I wanted to counterbalance the richness with something that cuts the sweetness of the floral smell. But what’s interesting is that when I was growing up I didn’t like the smell of incense, sandalwood, or cedar. And now, in my thirties, I love it. 

Do you think it’s partly because it reminds you of that time?

I don’t know, maybe. But sometimes your taste just evolves. I think there’s something inherently sophisticated about woods that I think people grow up to appreciate more. It’s like vegetables.

Why was rose a significant choice?

I love rose. When I was designing my fall 2019 collection, the whole collection was inspired by the rose. It’s just such a classic, and there’s something very special about this rose extract—it’s so exquisite. 

Do you have plans for the next scent?

We have a lot more plans. I’m really excited. More sisters are coming! I’m just having a lot of fun. We’re always in development and I have a bunch of samples right now that I’m playing with. Something that is really nice about this is that in two years we have launched two fragrances, which is really quite untraditional for designer brand fragrances, which usually take two, three, four years to do. I think the reason for that is that it’s something that comes from me, very directly. it doesn’t go through a consumer survey, it doesn’t get tested by focus groups. It’s really about what I like.

What are you most inspired by?

I’m always inspired by the women around me, the people I dress. I’ve been very lucky to dress amazing women from First Lady Michelle Obama to the Duchess of Sussex, Megan Markle, to one of my closest friends, Diane Kruger, to Kate Bosworth—all are women that have continued to inspire me with their own sense of style and what they do. I think ultimately being a man designing women’s wear it’s really important to surround yourself with women.

What else fuels your creativity in your life?

I would say travel, and it doesn’t even have to be international. Like I’m starting my fall concept already and I was here and I didn’t really have any ideas, so I took a taxi downtown to The Strand and I bought a bunch of new books. That was great. I spent like two hours there, getting inspired. So it’s every kind of travel, every kind of scene. As long as I’m just always being exposed to new things, that’s all that matters.

What are some of your favorite places to go, when it is farther afield?

I love Greece. I would love to create a fragrance based on my memories there, because you can’t really go wrong anywhere there, it’s just so beautiful. funny enough I was actually there in May and there was a whole wall of jasmine, so I had to take a picture with it. It’s interesting, those things follow you everywhere, but that’s the Greece edition of jasmine.

Being based in New York, I try to go to warm places. But another place I love to go is Japan. Japan is one of the most beautiful, rich in culture, but also just a culture that really appreciates beauty. It’s in every detail.

What have your experiences been in the fragrance world versus the fashion world?

It’s very different. It’s interesting having been to the Fragrance Foundation Awards for the second time this year—it’s actually quite a different crowd. You think fashion and beauty are so entrenched together, but it is its own machine. Having the chance to meet so many different perfumers, fragrance houses, and also people in the beauty-business side of things has been really interesting for me. It’s been a great learning experience and I hope to continue to learn and meet new people. 

What have been some of your other favorite scents throughout your life?

One of the first scents that I ever encountered was Geoffrey Beene’s Grey Flannel. I have flannel drapes all over my home and my studio, because it came in a little gray flannel pouch which I thought was really cool. That was one of my earliest influences. And then, of course, I grew up with CK1. It was the scent of my teens. 

In terms of ingredients, I love flowers. It’s apparent in my work, it’s apparent in the way we do our shows—it’s always been a very important part. I love the smell of a freshly cut stem. It’s that green, that crisp green. There’s another flower called the osmanthus, an Asian flower I grew up with. I’m looking forward to doing something with that. And I love lime, because it’s very citrusy and bright. I like to cook, so I use lime a lot. 

How would you describe the smell of the best party you have ever been to?

The smell of the best party is always champagne. Always, because that’s maybe the only thing you remember.

Speaking of parties, what did you enjoy most about the Fragrance Foundation Awards this year?

I loved it. Jane Krakowski, I absolutely adore—she’s amazing, funny, talented, engaging, and the best host ever. And of course having the opportunity to meet Linda has been really special. I love the Fragrance Awards because, as I mentioned, it’s a world that I’ve not been a part of for most of my fashion career. Getting to meet so many new people who are pioneers and influencers in the beauty industry is really great. That’s one part of it, and then the other part is that this year I got to present an award, and that was really special, because sharing the stage with Tom Ford, and all the famous perfumers, was very humbling. It was also special to see my friend Laura Slatkin get an award. I did a collaboration, in Spring 2012, with Nest Candles—one of my first scent experiences—and I was fortunate enough to meet Laura then.

How do you like to scent your home?

I have little pieces of palo santo that I light. I have it here in my studio too, it’s always burning somewhere.

Now that you like woods…

Yeah, now that I’m an old lady, yes, I like my woods very much. It’s really all you need. It’s really clean and really fresh.

Do you wear a scent yourself?

I do, right now I’m wearing Super Cedar by Byredo.

More wood!

I know! I like it. But I’m dying to make a fragrance that’s unisex, so I can wear my own. And, that might just be coming… 

Carly Cardellino Vaccaro is the beauty director for Cosmopolitan magazine, as well as its digital sister cosmopolitan.com. A true style and scent-loving tastemaker, Carly’s passion for perfume enhances the lives of readers she speaks to every day. Here, she celebrates the magic of her favorite fragrances, and reveals how the top trends in scent mirror the endless energy and transformative power of fashion.

I love fragrance, but it’s a tricky topic to talk about because it’s a very personal and subjective subject. One person’s whole entire day could be thrown off by the mere scent of rose, where another person craves a soft misting of the delicate flower. Me? I gravitate toward anything vanilla and musk (I’m looking at you, Cosmopolitan’s new Love, Unfiltered Eau de Parfum)—I actually don’t even feel put together unless I spray one of the many concoctions I’ve hoarded over the years that blend the two accords together. My most recent favorites are Love by Killian Don’t Be Shy and Kayali Vanilla—both instantly take me back to sitting at the table with my grandmother, getting wafts of her pure vanilla perfume as she passed by me with a grilled cheese (the crust cut off, obvi) that she’d just made for me. My grandma wasn’t obsessed with fashion, but man did she love an accessory—one of her most prized possessions being fragrance (and a lucite bracelet). In a way, her scent was the last accessory she’d put on and she inadvertently passed that tradition onto me. Cut to 30 years later, I’m spraying on a perfume from my very vast fragrance wardrobe—I have ones for day, night, vacation, running errands…the list goes on—that I’ve curated over the years, allowing it to be the final touch to any outfit, making me feel like I have my life together (I don’t, but a girl can dream, right?!). Fragrance just lets me feel like I can actually take on the day—a power fragrance of sorts, if you will—and that’s why I never leave my apartment without it on.

On that note, like fashion, it’s also one of the best ways to express yourself without having to say a word. Soft, floral fragrances can mean you’re looking to be playful, light-hearted, and free (I instantly picture Lily Aldridge in her new Haven campaign, running through a field of wildflowers—Hi, Lily!), while muskier, heavier scents scream that you’re confident and warm—or trying to be sexy (without actually trying). And then you have citrusy scents that give off fresh vibes, but also mean you’re ready to be a BO$$ (perfume PSA: grapefruit scents are amazing to wear on job interviews because they allow you to smell fresh and gives off an energizing aroma). And now, brands are going out of their way to think out of the box in terms of how people wear fragrance, like coating temporary tattoos, dousing woven bracelets in scent (hi, Diptyque!), hair mists—and even turning to huge fragrance houses to scent your favorite dry shampoo for a luxurious, lingering aroma that is sure to get your 1,000 compliments. What a time to be alive! Not to mention, the huge wave of genderless fragrances we’re seeing marketed to appeal to anyone and everyone—I, myself, wore Curve for Men in high school and everyone was always like, ‘Why do you wear a men’s scent?’ My response: ‘Why not! It’s just what I like.’ So it’s nice to see gender being more fluid in the fragrance industry because scent is simply what you gravitate to (Same goes with fashion!)—there aren’t meant to be, nor should there be any rules.

ADRIANA MEDINA, GIVAUDAN

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I am a top note kind of gal—you never get a second chance to make a first impression. I love citrus, fruity, fresh top notes. Notes that are joyful and dance on the top of a fragrance. 

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

It’s the biggest compliment a perfumer can ever receive, when you meet someone who enjoys and wears your fragrance all the time!

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on? 

One of the best compliments was when someone told me that a creation of mine was the first fragrance they were gifted, and it’s their favorite scent! To be able to reach someone and leave a long-lasting memory is very meaningful.

Favorite non-perfume smell?  

Mom’s cooking. The smell is sweet, salty, warm and delicious. A signal that I’m home. 

Do you have a secret talent? 

It’s not a secret that I love dancing!

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be? 

Magical. Fragrance is pure magic, it makes you imagine, dream and travel.

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be? 

I was first introduced to fragrance by my grandmother. I still clearly remember the glass tray where she displayed all of her favorites. Little did I know, I would become a perfumer one day. Fragrance gave me a profession and it’s where I found my deepest passion. I love to share my story so I can inspire others to be part of this beautiful world. It started later on in life as a dream, and I made it into a reality.

MACKENZIE REILLY, IFF

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I love to work with mineral notes, and see them as an extension of the world of naturals.  By faceting a woody or herbaceous accord with minerality, it adds a depth to the olfactive landscape that feels really natural to me, creating the effect of a forest or a shoreline. I also like to work with natural seeds, such as carrot or ambrette.  I love the richness and signature they can provide to an orris or sandalwood, for example. These types of notes also open the door to a new world of gourmand fragrances that are edible and addictive, but not necessarily sweet the way we currently understand the gourmand family.  

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created? 

It’s exciting! Suddenly you see your creation in a new light, almost as if it doesn’t belong to you anymore.

What’s the best compliment someone has given you about a scent you worked on?

I’ve been told by a client that a fragrance I made for his brand brings him back to his childhood memories in the South of France, and is so close to his heart for that reason.  The way he smiles when he recounts the story makes me feel like I was able to capture something both elusive and profound and put it in a bottle; which is the ultimate goal, really. Any time someone shows you that you’ve truly reached them through scent, it’s a pretty powerful feeling.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

Such a hard question!  Maybe the smell of sweet, fresh air when the seasons change; when the sun hits the earth, warming the soil, the grass, the trees. You feel as though you are being nurtured through your breath.

Favorite non-perfume smell?

The scent of burning wood in a big stone fireplace. I love the variety of firewood in different places. In France we burn good, dry wood that’s covered in oakmoss, and in New Mexico, it’s the sweet scent of Pinion wood burning in the adobe kivas.

What’s your favorite saying or expression?

The photographer Cecil Beaton once wrote, “What is elegance?  Soap and water!” I love this quote for what it is: simple, honest, beautiful. In perfumery it is very important to understand how to capture the essence of things; an exercise in minimalism and essentialism. 

Do you have a secret talent?

I can hold my breath underwater for 5 minutes, maybe more.  It’s true!

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be?

If you take the time to learn how to smell, how to be present and really pay attention to scent, your world will expand in ways you cannot imagine.  

ILIAS ERMENIDIS, FIRMENICH

What are a few of your favorite notes to work with? How have you used it in a fragrance(s)?

I enjoy working with Ambrox, the sexiest molecule alive, combining it with other radiant woody notes, and fresh or warm spices, to create surprising masculine addictions that are different from your everyday fougere aromatics.

How does it feel to meet someone who is wearing a fragrance you created?

I love the sense of mutual enthusiasm when I randomly meet someone who is half a generation younger than me and has used one of my fragrances. It brings back amazing memories and makes me secretly proud.

Best compliment someone has given you about a fragrance you worked on:

The best compliment is to hear the addictive effect a fragrance I created has on someone’s entourage. I believe in the primitive, then emotional, influence of a fragrance.

Favorite non-perfume smell?

The Aegean sea mixed with the smells of watermelons, cucumbers and Clarins suncream. It’s the perfect summer vacation smell.

What’s your favorite saying or expression?

I am Greek and I have way too many, but i often use Oscar Wilde’s “Be yourself.  Everyone else is already taken.”

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?

I would have loved to learn to play the piano or the guitar when I was young.

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be? 

Addiction

Every year when summer draws to an end, I wish it would last forever along with la dolce vita… However, when we return to work after Labor Day, Fashion week begins, fragrances are launched, momentum builds and we are all back!

This September has begun with tremendous excitement on the runways, in the stores and touching us all on social media.

Accords brings that to all our readers with Jason Wu sharing his story of what lead up to his fabulous return to the runway. Carly Cardellino Vaccaro shares why fragrance is such an essential everyday accessory in so many ways.

The Fragrance Foundation has much going on for Fall.  Our new website will debut soon. In the next few months we will reveal our collaboration with a talented artist  and designer to bring Fragrance Day 2020 to new heights.

Autumn will debut our new Give Back partnership with NEXT for AUTISM, so we look forward to bringing new meaning to our TFF membership and beyond.

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Michael Edwards, author of the lauded 1996 book Perfume Legends, is something of a perfume legend himself. He’s been called “the perfume expert’s expert”—and yet the impact of his work has reached even those with a mere passing interest in scent. Not only is he the creator of the iconic fragrance wheel, he’s also the mastermind behind Fragrances of the World, an exhaustively comprehensive guide to every imaginable sniff that’s sold, now in its 33rd edition—while his digital database lists more than 30,000 fragrances, which can be cross-referenced by brand, perfumer, ingredients, or bottle designer.

For many, however, it’s Edwards’ scholarly—but wholly engaging—writing about the history of perfumery that’s been his most powerful contribution to the way that we understand and talk about scent. Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, which chronicled the creation of 45 epoch-defining eaus, has become a coveted cult classic, especially as copies have grown scarce. Happily, he’ll be publishing an updated and expanded edition, Perfume Legends II, in September (with more tricks up his sleeve to follow). Here, the irrepressible raconteur shares the story behind his journey into the world of wonderful smells.

What inspired you to create your first guide to fragrance classification guide?

In the mid-70s, I worked for Halston. Halston was a great brand at that time, and it was just as the fragrance market was starting to take off. Charlie was the pivotal change: Fragrance reflects the times, and suddenly women were making their own money and buying their own fragrances. Before that, perfume had been a gift—but by the end of the 70s women accounted for more fragrance sales than men. I was in Paris at that stage, and I had watched the evolution of New World wines, and the way that they had been classified in order to explain them to customers. It wasn’t a new idea, but I thought it might be interesting to apply that idea to perfumes in order to help the customer figure out what she might like.

After I left Halston in the early 80s, I started up as a retail specialist. And our problem in retail is simple: People think that they can only smell three or four perfumes before their nose gets tired. So it’s important to choose the right ones for them to smell. I thought maybe fragrance families could be the key, because if you ask people for the names of their favorite three perfumes, almost invariably at least two will fall into the same family. We don’t know why this is, we just know it’s true. That’s why, in 1984, I started my first guide. It was tiny, and really just a manual for the training I did, to be used in store. I’d ask you to tell me the perfumes you like, I’d look them up in the back, and I would give you suggestions. Remember, there were only 29 new fragrances in 1984; so it was easier than today. In 1991, Nordstrom asked me to expand the guide, and it grew from there.

What led to the publication of the Perfume Legends in 1996?

I’d always been fascinated with the stories of how perfumes came about. There were so many myths, some of which didn’t ring true. And in the early 1990s, perfumers were invisible. There were books by artists, musicians, sculptors, but nothing by perfumers. And when I came up with the idea to tell their stories, I had the luck to interest two masters. One was Guy Robert, who was at that time President of the French Society of Perfumers. He became a very close friend, my mentor, and for the last 10 years of his life, the technical consultant for my Fragrances of the World guidebook. The other was Edmond Roudnitska, the great perfumer, who did relatively few fragrances but a number of them were masterpieces that changed the architecture of perfumery—Diorella, Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage. The problem was that when I started on the book, he was already a very elderly man in his 80’s. He had a reputation of being a very grumpy old man, so I didn’t expect anything when I wrote to him. To my surprise, he agreed to receive me. I thought I’d be lucky to get 10, 15 minutes. But in the first of our interviews, he spent almost three hours.

Those two opened doors for me, and in the end, I spoke with just under 160 people, from great perfumers to bottle designers to the heads of houses. I ended up including 45 fragrances in the book, starting with Jicky in 1889 and going right way through to Angel in 1992. The book came out quietly and then over time it turned into a cult.

What do you think made it resonate with people?

Many people write about perfumes, but they write from their viewpoint. I didn’t. I was trying to find history, so I wrote it through the eyes of the creators. I’ve always had the belief that if we don’t understand how things started, then how can we interpret where we’re going today? The nicest compliments I ever get are when younger perfumers come up and say, “I want to shake your hand. Your book made me want to be a perfumer.”

Why did you decide to update the book now?

I’ve been asked again and again to do an update. I got sidetracked by the sheer explosion of fragrances. Last year we tracked nearly 3,000 new perfumes. But I finally carved out the side time to do the interviews. The book is quite extensively changed. For Chanel No 5, I’ve rewritten an entire chapter, because over the past 22 years there’s been a lot of new research.

You’ve also added eight new scents. What fragrances made the cut?

I’ve included Fracas, Germaine Cellier’s fantastic tuberose. Feminité du Bois, with that unbelievable woody note. Flower by Kenzo, created by the genius Alberto Morillas. J’Adore, Coco Mademoiselle, Timbuktu, Guerlain’s 1979 Nahema. And then lastly, Portrait of a lady, Dominique Ropion’s masterpiece for Frederic Malle.

Were there others that you very much wanted to include?

Lancome’s La Vie est Belle. But I believe that you have to give a legend time. There are three criteria to make a legend: number one is an accord so innovative that other people copy it. Number two, an impact, so profound it creates a trend. And number three an appeal that is likely to endure. So I felt it was a bit too soon for that one.

There’s also been talk of an American Perfume Legends project. Where are you with that?

I’ve been talking about it for so long. But I’m well on the way. I’ve identified 42 legends, starting with Elizabeth Arden’s Bluegrass from 1934. It was the first international success, and I don’t think I can write about American perfumes without writing about the people who made it happen—Arden, Estée Lauder, Charles Revson, Calvin Klein. You’ll see Youth Dew, White Shoulders, Charlie, of course, as well as men’s fragrances, for the first time. I’ve completed the drafts for 31 of them, and I’ve got about another 18 months to work on it before I’m finished. After that, I should retire… don’t you think?

In 2020, the Master’s Program at FIT will celebrate the 20^th anniversary of its launch. The brainchild of industry legend Leonard Lauder, it has become a true Think Tank: an incubator for talent, producing global business research and annual trend reports. Fragrance Foundation President Emeritus Annette Green championed the development of first the undergraduate and then the graduate Cosmetics and Fragrance curricula at FIT, and each successive Foundation President has served on the Industry Board. ACCORDS spoke with Professor Stephan Kanlian, who has been with the Master’s Program since its inception two decades ago. 

How did you get started with FIT? 

My wife saw the position in WWD, and urged me to consider it.  I had worked in global marketing in skincare, after several years with the diplomatic branch of the US Department of Commerce, running consumer product trade missions overseas. The final step of the hiring process in 1999 was a one-on-one interview with new college President, Dr. Joyce Brown.  I laid out my vision for a “think tank for beauty” and she said “let’s do it.”  She has been a champion of the program ever since.

What makes the FIT Master’s Program so unique?

No other industry has collaborated across competitive lines to create graduate business curriculum to train talent and undertake research. There is a close collaboration between industry leaders and the faculty: defining skill sets for successful leadership, and identifying business issues that need fresh and disruptive thinking by emerging leaders. 

How has the the curriculum at FIT evolved over the past 20 years to keep pace with changes in the industry?

The faculty have evolved the fragrance curriculum away from merely focusing on fine fragrance, to teach the fragrancing of all consumer products, as an integral part of the marketing mix and a sensory branding opportunity to reach consumers.  As the only college campus in the US with a working fragrance laboratory, this is a unique strength at FIT.

What, to you, is the most captivating thing about fragrance?  What do your personal favorite scents have in common?

Fragrance is incredibly intellectual, and yet simultaneously spiritual (primal, really), and as an academic that combination has always intrigued me. My favorite scents are generally artisanal fragrances, either floriental or gourmand notes, with an interesting combination of ingredients that is at once surprising and familiar.      

What stands out in your mind as you look back over a 20 year collaboration with the industry? 

The seamless partnership we have built between industry and academia is a model for the future of education, and the future value of universities. There is also the ability to effect positive change through a strong community of 350 alumni, who work across the US, Europe, Latin America and Asia. I’m also very proud to work in an industry that values education and nurturing talent as part of its culture. The Fragrance Foundation’s programs for The Notables and certification of consumer-facing store personnel are great examples.

What still surprises you about the fragrance and beauty industry?

Perhaps given that I am so invested in our student’s success, 95% of whom are women, it still surprises me that more Corporate Directors and “C Suite” leadership in beauty are not female. 

What’s the one thing you hope every student walks away with?

The gravitas that only comes from the conviction of great ideas, informed by solid analytics, and the executive presence to sell-through those ideas from corporate leadership to the end consumer.  

Has there been a specific moment in your career of which you’ve been particularly proud? 

There have been quite a few: the first student collaboration with the WWD Beauty Summit (2004); student research with IDEO presented at the American Express Luxury Summit (2007); students delivering the keynote for the Fragrance Foundation Summit (2010); publication of student research in the Wall Street Journal (2015); and most recently, two of our graduates being named Chief Marketing Officers, and a third becoming Head of Fashion and Luxury at Google. As a professor, nothing engenders greater pride than to witness your student’s success. I have been very blessed in my career in that regard.

CAROLINE SABAS, GIVAUDAN

What’s your favorite saying or expression? 

Carpe Diem (seize the day). I don’t say it often, but it’s how I choose to live my life—it’s very freeing.

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do? 

I’ve always wanted to take singing classes. I love music and sing constantly, but could use some practice (which my 7-year-old son reminds me every day!).

If you could use one word to describe the power of fragrance, what would it be?

Emotion.

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be? 

A fragrance makes you dream.

Fantasy dinner guest? 

Mozart, Chopin and Brahms one evening; Djokovic, Nadal and Federrer the next.

PASCAL GAURIN, IFF

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?

I think one of the most calming smells is that of my kids’ heads when they were babies. It is one of the most striking and soothing smells of all time. 

Fantasy dinner guest?

I would actually have seven guests:

Quentin Tarantino –I believe that quality must start from a white page every time, and he is able to implement this excellence by creating a vision from scratch with each film. I also feel his brilliant dialog sets a new perspective on culture that is an eye-opening reflection of the world in which we live.

Eddie Izzard – I admire the way he approaches society, religion and sexuality that has set him apart in a very Monty Python kind of way that is remarkable.

Tom Ford – Simply because life is more beautiful with Tom Ford.

David Bowie – A master at stretching boundaries, visually and musically and he knew to surround himself with the best in the business.

Lana Del Rey – I have a purely emotional connection to her work as a singer and songwriter. There is something that deeply moves me about what she does. You either connect with her universe or you don’t.

Oprah Winfrey – Her life trajectory and achievements are extraordinary and unique in American society.

Ellen Von Unwerth – The way she captures a woman’s image really set her apart. It is erotic and joyful at the same time. 

What is favorite saying or expression?

“Creativity is allowing yourself to make a mistake, art is knowing which one to keep.” – Scott Adams

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?

I would love to spend 3 months of my life working side by side with Patrick Roger, the French chocolate artist. He is a culinary wizard and has pushed the art of chocolate to a new level by magnifying the aesthetics and the taste.  His environmental consciousness is also astonishing and admirable. 

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be?

It is the most beautiful sense of the world. Simply by breathing, you are smelling. You don’t have control over what you feel when you smell because it is connected to the most primitive and emotional part of your brain.  It is a pure instinctive reaction! It is pure emotion!

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be?

It’s hard to choose just one. But if I had to, I would say teleportation. To travel to another destination in the blink of an eye would be incredible. 

DAVID APEL, SYMRISE

What’s your favorite saying or expression?  

“You can always wash dishes…” My father was a chef and it was his way of teaching his children that you can always start over again and reinvent yourself.  It’s a saying that has been useful in my life.   

Fantasy dinner guest?  

Leonardo da Vinci or Cher. Actually both together would be spectacular fun!

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do? 

I’m happy to say the list is long. Gives me hope. Paint well, build kayaks, fly, to name a few…

If you could tell the world anything about fragrance, what would it be? 

Look for fragrance in your life. It is always there. The briny mineral tang of the stones of lower Manhattan on a brisk fall day. The bright green flash of grass and linden blossoms on an early summer evening in Central Park. Then find one that is yours to keep in a bottle and bring along on your journey.  That is what we have the luck to do as perfumers.

Favorite Meal?

My favorite meal is in my garden. With all the people I love. Noise, laughter, talking over one another, platters of grilled meats and vegetables, wine and flowers, children, sunshine and music.

This issue of Accords features two men whose contributions to the fragrance industry are vast, from very different perspectives. Legendary fragrance author & expert Michael Edwards shares his own personal history as well as what makes him such an insightful writer about perfume history. 

Professor Stephan Kanlian shares his fragrance point of view and a look into the future as the FIT program he chairs reaches its 20-year milestone with an ever-evolving curriculum and accomplished graduates.

As we approach the end of summer, there is much excitement to look forward to for TFF members and  the Fragrance community!  

A brand new TFF website will launch in the fall, taking its cue from Accords and we will be adding new exclusive features to our weekly Note Worthy newsletter. 

Our partnership with NEXT for Autism, with Game Changer Laura Slatkin, will be integrated into all TFF events & communication. The activities will enlist participants from all of TFF and fragrance consumers as well.

Fragrance Day March 21, 2020 will rise to new heights with a new artistic collaboration and grow globally with TFF licensees. The programs & opportunities will be shared with TFF members in September!

Please join us for a fabulous Fall!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

Featuring The Notables

What does the future look like for the Fragrance Foundation? The momentum is building, and the bar is set high. Over the past year, the Foundation’s reach has already expanded exponentially: the success of Fragrance Day, established in 2018, reached an audience of 200 million via social media in 2019. And that’s just one of the many ways that the organization is delivering on its mission —to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance—says president Linda Levy. Her goals for the coming year are even more ambitious. “For Fragrance Day 2020, we will focus our campaign on ingredients with a new and exciting artistic collaboration, as well as expert content on ingredient transparency, because product safety and sustainability are important messages for us to share with consumers,” she says. The organization will also make a tremendous international push, reaching out “to form new alliances with other countries to re-establish official Fragrance Foundations with Fragrance Day 2020 as a key pillar.”

There will also be a continued campaign to elevate and celebrate perfumers, something that was integral to 2019’s agenda, reaching its greatest expression in the series of perfumer portraits photographed by Michael Avedon for Fragrance Day. “Fragrance Day is a fantastic initiative that has brought perfumers in the store with consumers and celebrated perfume as a precious but accessible, mysterious but tangible product. It rejuvenates perfume and what it stands for,” says Fragrance Foundation Notable Lorraine Miche de Malleray from IFF. Many also appreciated how it impacted their perspective on their own work. “Fragrance Day was an opportunity for my team at Robertet to take a moment and celebrate the hard work we all do and each department’s contribution to the industry,” says Katrina Guillermo of Robertet Fragrances. “I was really impressed on how The Fragrance Foundation was able to use technology and social media as a platform to express love for fragrance.”

2019 also saw the Fragrance Foundation redefine and revitalize its communication strategy, with the new monthly digital magazine Accords, and the new weekly newsletter Note Worthy. These platforms will continue to provide exclusive and exciting content, including personal perspectives from industry icons, perfumers, and fragrance creatives, and, says Levy, enable the TFF to “continue to build our messaging with modern formats and unique messaging.” As Notable Malinda Appel of NEST Fragrances says, “Most of the members of the Fragrance Foundation are in competition but we’re also friends. The events and new communications are a neutral place for brands and fragrance houses to unite about our shared interest in growing the awareness and future of the fragrance industry. The new approach the Fragrance Foundation has taken feels fresh, and supportive of all organizations, large and small.” Notable Amy Rueckl from IFF agrees: “I think the fragrance foundation is doing a wonderful job of elevating their vision and image to begin to appeal to a new, broader audience.” Going forward, the communications will seek to engage increasingly more fragrance-loving readers. The ultimate goal, Levy says, is “to grow the dialogue in the fragrance community and most importantly, directly with consumers.”

As Levy announced at June’s resoundingly successful TFF Awards, the Foundation will also be ramping up its philanthropic GIVE BACK efforts, first by partnering with 2019 Game Changer honoree Laura Slatkin to benefit her charity, Next For Autism, by offering a full year of programs and events that raise awareness and funds for this important cause. Because in making the world a better place, as in all things, “The Fragrance Foundation and our members have a much bigger voice together than we would have alone,” says Levy.

The Notables program is another bright light for the future of TFF, as it unites young, enthusiastic minds to come together and dream up new possibilities and programs. “That fact that we’re asked for input is meaningful,” says Tracy Taylor of Firmenich. “TFF encourages new voices, ideas and perspectives in an industry grounded in heritage, tradition and ritual. Even emerging professionals have the opportunity to help shape the future of fragrance and a responsibility to preserve what makes it so special.”

The Notables program began in 2015, and honorees from each class continue to passionately contribute ideas to Think Tank meetings. When recently asked what they feel they can achieve as ambassadors to their company, responses varied from focusing on the network they can build (“I would like broaden my knowledge of other parts of the industry that are different from my own contributions,” says Kaleigh Prokop from MANE) to bringing the Fragrance Foundation’s mission statement to life in the world at large. “I feel confident that I can get people more engaged, educated and excited about the fragrance industry,” says Hannah Silver of NEST Fragrances. “There are so many resources and “seeds” that The Fragrance Foundation provides to its members. It is up to me to see the future and enlighten others.” Katie Bell from Cosmo International Fragrances, too, believes that being a Notable offers an exciting opportunity to be an ambassador for scent. “If we can continue to inspire the world to share the same passion we all have for fragrance through our talents as creators, storytellers, artists…then we are on the right track!”

For 2020 and beyond, the Notables have shared many ideas and hopes. Julia Olivier from Firmenich wants to see even more paying-it-forward work to help others on behalf of the Foundation: “We could develop a team of olfactive expert volunteers to either entertains kids in hospital with olfactive workshops or help adults that have lost sense of memory stimulating them with olfactive scents,” she suggests. Karissa Ciliento of Givaudan, is excited to see the Fragrance foundation “reveal and share the stories of the unsung heroes within the industry, “We are finally pulling back the curtain on the creative process with perfumers, but there are still so many more people to showcase behind the scenes of our fragrance world,” she says, “such as Evaluation, Sales, Lab Technicians, Marketing, Consumer Insights, Graphics, S&T, and Raw Materials.” Brand Strategist Gayathri Balasundar says, “I also hope TFF can promote more diversity in fragrance the way we are seeing in other categories. I don’t just mean diversity in color, though I think that’s critical, but also diversity in backgrounds.”

Simone Bolotin of COTY says, “The fragrance industry is evolving every day with new technologies, digitally native brands, gender fluid concepts and more, and I look forward to seeing the Fragrance Foundation continue to embrace and celebrate these new innovations.” And Lindsay Powell Schwartz of COTY says, “I hope that the Fragrance Foundation brings industry leaders together to thoughtfully address consumer concerns around safety and the need for more transparency. This will require an honest dialogue with multiple parties with different perspectives in order to ensure that the response doesn’t simply feel like propaganda to the consumer. I also hope that the foundation leads the way in identifying innovative ways to modernize the fragrance industry, including new technologies, formats, accords, ingredients, and ways to sample.”

Brooke Selitto from Cosmo International Fragrances, is “looking forward to The Fragrance Foundation continuing to connect the fragrance community through meaningful conversation and initiatives”. Perhaps more than anything, the Fragrance Foundation is a connector—of people, ideas, passions, inspiration and information. As Notable Anais Nouvet of Cartier says, “To me, the Fragrance Foundation is the “highest instance” of our industry. The Foundation keeps us all connected to what’s happening in our profession at a more human level, which is very different from the competitive reports or data we usually work with. It animates our network of passionate professionals through its amazing events.” Its work to unite brands, individuals, and the perfume-loving public at large will continue apace in 2020 and beyond—especially with so many enthusiastic members driving it forward. “Not so long ago, the fragrance houses were thought of as the “ghost writers” behind the perfume industry, yet more and more there is great interest from consumers to know the back story of fragrance design,” says Notable Liza Ketcham of Givaudan. “It’s an industry that many people know very little about, and I love what The Fragrance Foundation is doing to reveal the beauty, passion, and creativity that make up our world. My hope is that TFF continues to be an active force in helping to bring our perfumers to the forefront, and helping to provide a better understanding of our creative process and the storytelling behind each fragrance.” Finally, Alexandra Cassar from IFF sums up the feelings of many who work closely with the Fragrance Foundation and believe in the difference it’s making and will continue to make within the fragrance industry and beyond: “I couldn’t be happier to be a part of this movement and finally show the world what we do and who we are. Fragrances are much more than just a beauty product. They inspire, build confidence, and make people dream.”

LOUISE TURNER, GIVAUDAN

What does it mean to you to win The Fragrance of the Year/Women’s Luxury award for Tom Ford Lost Cherry?
Winning Fragrance of the Year makes me feel very proud and honored to have participated in its creation with such an amazing team at Tom Ford Beauty; and so inspired by the incredible creative vision of Mr. Ford.

What do you love most about being a perfumer?
What I love most about being a perfumer is the constant surprise and discovery that every creation brings… a perfume is never exactly how you imagine it to be so there is a child-like excitement every time you start to develop something new.

How would you describe your style as a perfumer?
My style is simple (figurative) and very inspired by nature.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?
I just love the smell of honeysuckle… it has a meditative effect on me!

What’s your favorite saying or expression?
Favorite saying: Less is More! (I try and strive for this …but it’s not as easy as it sounds!)

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?
Something I have always wanted to do- learn to fly a plane… I will hopefully obtain my PPL (private pilot ‘s license) this year.

CLEMENT GAVARRY, FIRMENICH

What does it mean to you to win The Fragrance of the Year/Women’s Popular award for Ariana Grande Cloud?
It is an immense honor and pleasure to have received a Fragrance Foundation Award. To win the Women’s Popular Fragrance of the Year made it all the more meaningful because it tells me this scent is reaching a great number of people in the US.

What mood or effect did you want the fragrance to create?
Inspired by what a cloud could smell like in Ariana’s world, I created this fragrance to create an uplifting, positive and happy mood. Additionally, I wanted to transmit a feeling of openness and comfort, as if floating on a cloud.

Are there unique considerations when creating a scent for a celebrity?
When working with a celebrity, the creation process is far more personal. You must consider the individual’s unique identity and preferences throughout every stage of the process.

What’s your favorite saying or expression?
YOLO (you only live once)

If you could choose a super power, what would it be?
Flying at high speed.

Fantasy dinner guests?
Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin, Richard Branson, Elon Musk

EMILIE COPPERMANN, SYMRISE

What does it mean to you to win the Perfume Extraordinaire award for A Lab On Fire Hallucinogenic Pearl?
It was wonderful working with A Lab on Fire who allowed me to express myself freely. I was so happy to be honored with this award, which is perhaps for me the most meaningful award given by the Fragrance Foundation, as it is bestowed by my peers. It’s the price that touches me the most! It’s a real recognition in the industry. I was also very touched by the reaction of other perfumers during the event, who were sincerely happy for me.

What is most special to you about this scent?
Against any feminine or masculine stereotype, and going beyond the trend of current perfumes. A kind of original alchemy from which emerges the unexpected, both new and familiar that brings back the emotion of a dream, an unconscious memory. A regressive invitation back in childhood with this soft leather note with strong iris facets and milky facets, very addictive without being sweet or sugary. A fragrance that creates a surprising addiction in people.

What elements or ideas inspired its creation?
My first idea was to start from the very well-known deep leather scent of De laire of the beginning of the century and to reinvent it in a modern, delicate and white signature.

If you could smell only one thing until the end of time, what would it be?
Without any hesitation, that of babies at the time of birth. They are wrapped in a kind of musky halo, a suave smell hyper sensual without being animal. I am always incredibly surprised by the contrast between the softness and fragility of their skin and the power of this so exquisite smell that it develops. It only lasts a few days, even a few hours…

Favorite meal?
The pastry that makes the reputation of the famous Angelina shop in Paris, the Mont-Blanc, the signature of Angelina: Meringue, whipped cream, chestnut cream vermicelli. I love the contrasted textured of this dessert who is also full of history because it reminds me very much of my grandmother. We used to spend hours together in this salon de thé discussing and eating this pastry.

What’s something you’ve always wanted to learn to do?
I would have loved to be a musician. It’s a bit what I try to do in perfumery, take people on an emotional journey. Nothing transport people as much as fragrances or music.

Do you have a secret talent?
A loving mother with 4 kids!

Today we are happy to share this edition of Accords with a focus on the very important subject of fragrance education & a look at The Fragrance Foundation’s accomplishments and future, with insight from The Notables. For our Perfumer Q&A, we asked 3 of the 2019 TFF Awards winners about their creations and inspirations.

Although we are all taking vacations to relax and recharge, TFF is busy these summer months to work on exciting Fall events and major activations that will be shared soon. Keep up to date for these announcements in our weekly Note Worthy newsletter.

I hope all of you are enjoying a wonderfully fragrant summer!

President, The Fragrance Foundation

@linda_g_levy
@fragrancefoundation

If ever a man needed no introduction, it would be Tom Ford. The Texas-born, New Mexico-raised fashion titan has transformed what the world wears and what it smells like. His recent appointment as chairman of the CFDA cements his status as national icon and tastemaker par excellence, while the impeccable pedigree of his Tom Ford Beauty and Private Blend scents—which have received several Fragrance Foundation awards worldwide—have made this year’s Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame an honor both well-deserved and timely. “Everyone in the fragrance community is looking forward to seeing Tom Ford accept this award” says Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy. “When a designer creates a brand and stays true to its DNA, it really shows.”

Ford’s love of fragrance began in childhood, and his first scent memory is of the heady rush of his grandmother’s signature perfume: Estée Lauder Youth Dew. He approaches fragrance cinematically, working with perfumers to create olfactive panoramas— masterfully using the endless nuances of scent to create mood, to amplify seduction, to invite the mind to travel and to dream. “You can live a moment in life with one scent, and you can live the same moment in life with a different scent, and you can have a completely different reaction,” he says. “Scent is one of the things that alters mood, and it’s incredibly important to alter your mood.”

The designer created Tom Ford Beauty in partnership with The Estée Lauder Companies Executive Group President, John Demsey and launched in 2006 with the now-iconic Black Orchid—a scent originally positioned for women but adopted by men. This was followed by the introduction of Ford’s premium Private Blend range in 2007 with a selection of 12 scents, many of which remain best-sellers today: Tuscan Leather, Oud Wood, Neroli Portofino and Tobacco Vanille. Similar to the way that Ford had revolutionized fashion when he became creative director of Gucci in 1994 by bringing back sensuality and modernizing notions of decadence, the unveiling of Private Blend was groundbreaking: It shifted the dialogue around what a designer fragrance could be, and raised the bar on could be accomplished within the realm of luxury niche perfume. Tom Ford Private Blend represents creativity without constraints—the palette of exquisite ingredients and the storytelling behind each scent makes them compelling not for connoisseurs, but also inspires the fragrance-curious to explore, to begin to learn the language.

“The 1990s were all about minimalism,” Ford says. “All the architecture was pared down, everything was empty, and clothing was that way, too. Fragrances became watery and bottles were transparent. Now there’s a rediscovery of things that are more complex. I’m much more baroque in my tastes.”

Tom Ford worked closely with now retired senior vice president Karyn Khoury for over a decade and has partnered with many masters of their craft, including Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Calice Becker, Shyamala and Antoine Maisondieu, Sonia Constant, Nathalie Cetto and David Apel. “I feel fortunate that the perfumers that I have worked with are among the best in the business,” Ford says. “They are the best at what they do, and I feel honored to work with them. I take every opportunity to learn what I can from them in terms of quality of ingredients or in terms of inspiration to make people dream.”

Ford has always remained adamant that his fragrances defy preconceived notions of gender, playfully flouting and rejecting the definition of his-or-hers—whether his scent collections are inspired by the rarest oud, musk, or roses, they are meant to subvert stereotypes. “I love how classically feminine ingredients, like florals, can be blended to have a masculine appeal,” he says. “For example, Neroli Portofino balances floral notes with citrus notes and amber undertones to give it more depth and texture. The Private Blend customer doesn’t necessarily care if it is labeled as masculine or feminine. They want something that is precious and unique.”

Ford rocked the industry yet again in 2017 with the launch of Fucking Fabulous, a trailblazing—and slightly shocking—lush hit of bitter almond, orris, leather, tonka bean and clary sage that sold out in a single day and is to this day the top Private Blend launch.

“I think fragrance might be more important than clothes,” Ford has said. “Because, like music or food, scent is a very direct sensory stimulant. It provokes the senses, it brings up emotion and memory and feeling.”

Beneath Laura Slatkin’s soft-spoken demeanor lies a true Woman of Action. Not only is she a fashion plate, an incomparable hostess, and a philanthropic powerhouse, she is the home fragrance pioneer we have to thank for the fact that the category has become so vital. Slatkin first introduced luxury scented candles to the US market, along with her husband Harry, with Slatkin & Co in 1992. She went on to create home fragrances for a roster of brands including Christian Dior, Ralph Lauren, and Jonathan Adler, and launched her own blockbuster venture, NEST Fragrances, in 2008. Slatkin implicitly understands that a candle, when constructed with the complexity and nuance of an eau de parfum, can glorify our shared spaces and offer an invisible welcome when we walk into a room, while also acting as a silent but profound communicator of who we are and how we wish to move through the world. As NEST has branched out into fine fragrance and body care, the brand’s spectrum of unique and addictive scents has made it truly iconic. “When I first started the company,” Slatkin says, “I’d go to a dinner party and sit next to someone and they’d say, “What do you do?” “I have a home fragrance company called NEST Fragrances.” And they’d say, “Oh,” and go back to their dinner. But now, when I say that I founded NEST Fragrances, they say, “I love that brand!” To see someone’s face light up—that’s my measurement of success.”

How does it feel to be honored with the Game Changer award?
It’s as exciting as it is for an actress to win Best Actress at the Academy Awards. That’s how meaningful it is to me, because it’s before all of the professionals who I work with, compete with, and partner with. It’s just an extraordinary moment.

When did your love of fragrance begin?
In 1992, after I married Harry. Prior to that I worked on Wall Street, and I was buried in finance, so I didn’t really think about it. It wasn’t until my brother-in-law told me, as an interior designer, that the final touch on a beautifully decorated home is a beautiful home fragrance. He showed me that to really create an ambiance in a home and please all the senses is something extraordinary. When we got into the business, I’d never even burned a scented candle before. It just wasn’t on my radar. But the first time a perfumer brought in samples for me to smell based on the inspiration I gave him, I picked one of them up and smelled it and said, “Oh my God, this is beautiful.” It really impacted me and moved me so that I could feel my whole body transform when I inhaled this beautiful fragrance. And then we lit it, and it filled the room with the most extraordinary scent. There was no question that this was perfection. It became our Bamboo candle, which has been our number one scent for 25 years.

At the time, there was nothing else like it. Do you think that’s why it was such an immediate success?
Yes, Slatkin & Co. started with 12 fragrances and went to 24 fragrances. Saks Fifth Avenue launched us on their couture floor, which was very unique at that time. Home fragrance was usually on the eighth floor buried in the back of the bra department. After that, we grew to be the number one luxury brand and everybody started getting into the business and coming to us for help in creating their assortments. When I started NEST Fragrances in 2008, my whole premise was, why can’t every scent be a Bamboo? Let’s raise the bar. Nothing gets launched unless it moves you, and impacts you, and transports you, in the same way that Bamboo did for me when I first smelled it.

What else do you think makes NEST so special?
There are a few pillars that we stand on. Number one, the glass packaging. You can put it in any room. If you have a modern house, if your room is green, if it’s orange, if it’s purple, it still fits in. That was really important to me. We also have the highest fragrance load in the industry in terms of the amount of perfume in our candles, and we have a proprietary wax formulation that we developed over 25 years that makes the candles extremely efficacious in filling a room with scent. That’s why NEST is loved. NEST is loved because each fragrance has a really strong personality; each one creates a different mood, and that mood is very apparent when you walk into a room.

Is that what defines a good home scent for you?
It’s one that really transforms the space. So much so that when people walk in, they say, “Oh my God, it smells so good in here.” That’s my definition. Those three words, “Oh my God,” are our guiding principles.

What was your creative process when launching your fine fragrance collection?
I’m always working with master perfumers for home fragrance. And in the back of my mind, I always wanted to do fine fragrance but never had the inspiration for it. What would it look like? What would its positioning be? It never really gelled until I was sitting in the library one day looking at some art books. And I came across this book on Mrs. Delany, an 18th century botanical artist whose work really moved me. From there, I commissioned an artist to paint paintings of flowers that I really loved, and then we took the paintings to the perfumer, who used the inspiration to create the fragrances. The collection was launched exclusively at Sephora in 2013, and today we are consistently ranked between 7 and 9 against 125 or so nationally advertised brands. I think what moves the needle is the passion, the creativity, the originality, and the inspiration coming together in a way that creates an authentic story.

You recently opened your first New York flagship. Why was now the right time?
We have NEST home fragrance in Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks, Nordstrom. We have fine fragrance in Sephora. The body collection was launched at Ulta Beauty. So we wanted one place where we can bring all of the categories together as a story. Because that’s the future for NEST, to start to bring together the brand in home, fine fragrance, and personal care now that it’s gained such incredible traction. To be this enormously successful in fine fragrances is really groundbreaking. And there’s a different way of looking at fragrances today. It’s about having a whole wardrobe. When I wake up every morning, I have all eight fragrances in my closet and I say, “Who am I going to see today? What kind of mood do I want to create? What am I wearing?”, etc. It’s no longer about a singular scent.

What kind of sensibility were you able to bring to the table when creating fragrances for other brands?
We’ve created home fragrance for over 100 luxury brands, which has given me my PhD in fragrance. Working with perfumers, and understanding the various notes and how they blend together, was an extraordinary learning experience. But I also had to get into the psyche of every brand. What is their DNA? Aerin Lauder and Vera Wang are very different than Jonathan Adler, and very different from Ralph Lauren. Everything from the packaging, to the vessel, to the scent, it all has to be harmonious. I found it very exciting and interesting to delve into that.

While you’ve been building this empire, you’ve also found time to do so much amazing philanthropic work. What are you particularly proud of in that area?
When Harry and I started NEXT for AUTISM, we were thinking about how when our son David was first diagnosed, the best place to get an evaluation was Yale, and there was a four-year waiting list. I just kept thinking about that single woman living in Harlem, three kids, working three jobs to put food on the table, one with autism. So what I’m most proud of is the fact that we have partnered with the government to bring services to that population that doesn’t have the resources. Whether it’s our charter schools, which are located in Harlem and the Bronx, or whether it’s our brain center that we built with Columbia, Cornell, and near New York–Presbyterian Hospital, which accepts any insurance, nobody gets turned down, and provides state-of-the- art care – we’re bringing that excellence to a population that normally wouldn’t have access to that.